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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Im currently trying to remove the front control arms on my 2008 987.1 cayman and the bolts seem near impossible to remove. The nut comes off the bolt and at that point there shouldn’t be any thread and the bolt should slide out? But obviously it doesn’t. I’ve managed to move the bolt out just a little bit. Is there any tool that is good for this job or anything that I’m missing to make this easier?

cheers,
Austin

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First, make sure the arm is at normal ride height or at least roughly parallel to the ground. Next, use a pry bar or the handle of a wrench between the bolt head and the frame to provide some leverage. That usually does it for me. Worse case: use a hammer tap it until it’s flush and then finish with the pry method. Not much room in there so watch the hammer backswing and your hands while prying. Consider replacing the nut and bolt when reassembling.


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Thanks for the reply!

I’ve been on for around 4 hours trying to remove the bolt with different methods. It seems to be well and truly seized in there. The car is set so there is no extra load on the bushing so I don’t think that’s an issue. I’ve tried hammering it and turning it out as much as I can. The movement you can see in the photos is from turning the bolt one click at a time on a ratchet wrench. I’m wondering if I may have to use a reciprocating saw to cut through the sides of the bushing to release the arm. I’d rather have that as a last resort though!
 

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Have you tried any penetrating lubricant? I don’t like using it around rubber but if the next step is a saw...


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soaking it over night should help
what are you intending to do once you get it out ? replace it a guess
heat up the control arm part to loosen it from the bolt
fire ext. at the ready
 

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Use an old Philips screw driver or a properly sized punch and hammer to drive the bolt out from the threaded end. Easy peasy....lol
 

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Hi guys,

So finally managed to get the arms off. What a pain! I did end up using a reciprocating saw to first cut the arm off just infront of the tube and then cut down through each side (Where you can see the rubber on each side.) Recip saws don't like cutting through rubber so it can take a while. You need to make sure you don't go down too far and cut the sub frame of course. It's easier to remove some of the plastic trim on the bottom of the car to get better access with the saw. I found cutting part through the bolt and then turning it a little allows the bolt to be cut more slowly and safely. The area near the mount was a bit marked up from trying to remove the arms so I used 'Zinc 182' coating around the area after fitting the new part. Obviously it doesn't blend in too well but you can't see this from the outside anyway. I may spray over this with grey/silver at some point.

I also ended up using (M12x1.75x100mm) bolts instead of the (M12x1.5x95mm) bolts that are standard on the car. Much easier to find in this size in the UK. 5mm longer but they work just fine. These are high tensile, plated steel bolts too so shouldn't have any issues if they need to be removed again the future. (Bolts greased too of course.)

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One tiny question - when you tightened the bolt - was the suspension "loaded" - ie - did it have the weight of the car on it? If not - the bushing in that arm is probably torqued somewhat when the car is sitting level and the suspension is not being compressed or decompressed. This can lead to short bushing life since the rubber isn't neutral (untwisted) when the vehicle is at rest.

If it wasn't - it's easy enough to fix before any damage is done.
 

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Use an old Philips screw driver or a properly sized punch and hammer to drive the bolt out from the threaded end. Easy peasy....lol
In the last photo, where the new bolt is fitted, AS987 has fitted the bolt the opposite way around to how it's fitted from the factory (i.e. the threads are pointing to the front bumper) In the original factory fitted condition the bolt is impossible to drive out with any type of punch as there simply no space or access around the inner wheel arch. It is possible to swing a hammer and hit the end of the bolt (with the nut on the end of the bolt to protect it), but as I have found out over the last 2 days this bolt is virtually impossible to budge. I've whacked it with a 2Lbs ball pain hammer, tried to squeeze it out with a G-clamp, to the point where the body of the very stout clamp has twisted, I've applied heat and penetrating oil and tried to get the bolt to turn with breaker bars and even assaulted it with my 450Nm impact gun from the front (an extension bar and universal joint allows quite good access). All to no avail, it hasn't moved a single millimetre in any direction. Looks like I'm buying a reciprocating saw!
 

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One tiny question - when you tightened the bolt - was the suspension "loaded" - ie - did it have the weight of the car on it? If not - the bushing in that arm is probably torqued somewhat when the car is sitting level and the suspension is not being compressed or decompressed. This can lead to short bushing life since the rubber isn't neutral (untwisted) when the vehicle is at rest.

If it wasn't - it's easy enough to fix before any damage is done.
Yeah, we jacked the hub to match the loaded position. (As close as possible anyway.) The car handles very nicely now! Interesting to note that replacing the coffin arms didn't seem to affect the tracking at all.

In the last photo, where the new bolt is fitted, AS987 has fitted the bolt the opposite way around to how it's fitted from the factory (i.e. the threads are pointing to the front bumper) In the original factory fitted condition the bolt is impossible to drive out with any type of punch as there simply no space or access around the inner wheel arch. It is possible to swing a hammer and hit the end of the bolt (with the nut on the end of the bolt to protect it), but as I have found out over the last 2 days this bolt is virtually impossible to budge. I've whacked it with a 2Lbs ball pain hammer, tried to squeeze it out with a G-clamp, to the point where the body of the very stout clamp has twisted, I've applied heat and penetrating oil and tried to get the bolt to turn with breaker bars and even assaulted it with my 450Nm impact gun from the front (an extension bar and universal joint allows quite good access). All to no avail, it hasn't moved a single millimetre in any direction. Looks like I'm buying a reciprocating saw!
Good spot, yes I thought it would be best to turn the bolt around for easier access in the future. I'm not sure why Porsche put these the other way? Make sure you get some nice quality blades (I'd say 2 or 3 at least) and just take your time making sure you don't nick any of the other pipes or the mounting brackets etc. Worked a charm on mine!
 

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Yeah, we jacked the hub to match the loaded position. (As close as possible anyway.) The car handles very nicely now! Interesting to note that replacing the coffin arms didn't seem to affect the tracking at all.



Good spot, yes I thought it would be best to turn the bolt around for easier access in the future. I'm not sure why Porsche put these the other way? Make sure you get some nice quality blades (I'd say 2 or 3 at least) and just take your time making sure you don't nick any of the other pipes or the mounting brackets etc. Worked a charm on mine!
Thanks for the advice. I was at my wits end yesterday, couldn't believe the bolt is seized so tight, its like its welded to the inside of the bush. I'm looking at saws now as I don't have one. Can I ask, did the sway-bar get in the way of your cutting through the bush and did you use your reciprocating saw to cut the LCA across just in front of the bush to shorten it ? The space looks tight.
Many thanks in advance, any advice greatly appreciated.
🙏
 

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Thanks for the advice. I was at my wits end yesterday, couldn't believe the bolt is seized so tight, its like its welded to the inside of the bush. I'm looking at saws now as I don't have one. Can I ask, did the sway-bar get in the way of your cutting through the bush and did you use your reciprocating saw to cut the LCA across just in front of the bush to shorten it ? The space looks tight.
Many thanks in advance, any advice greatly appreciated.
🙏
The sway bar was in the way a little but it didn't really impact anything too much. Yes I chopped the arm a little in front of the bush. This allowed me to chop part way into the sides of the bush and then turn what was left of the arm up/down a bit so the saw had less of the bolt to go through and lowered any risk of cutting down too far into the frame. You might be fine just cutting straight but be very careful with the saw and take your time.
 

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The sway bar was in the way a little but it didn't really impact anything too much. Yes I chopped the arm a little in front of the bush. This allowed me to chop part way into the sides of the bush and then turn what was left of the arm up/down a bit so the saw had less of the bolt to go through and lowered any risk of cutting down too far into the frame. You might be fine just cutting straight but be very careful with the saw and take your time.
Thank you for the reply, I'm picking up my new Makita reciprocal saw tomorrow, I feel more confident now and the saw might be needed again as I'm replacing all the suspension components at all four wheels, so this wasn't the start I wanted. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated and I'll let you know how I get on.
 

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Thank you for the reply, I'm picking up my new Makita reciprocal saw tomorrow, I feel more confident now and the saw might be needed again as I'm replacing all the suspension components at all four wheels, so this wasn't the start I wanted. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated and I'll let you know how I get on.
Thank you for the reply, I'm picking up my new Makita reciprocal saw tomorrow, I feel more confident now and the saw might be needed again as I'm replacing all the suspension components at all four wheels, so this wasn't the start I wanted. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated and I'll let you know how I get on.
Success, got a good Makita reciprocal saw and chopped through the rubber of the bush that can be seen on either side of coffin arm and then through the bolt. I took my time like you advised and kept the blade lubed with a bit of oil. I put a flat piece of metal behind the arm to protect that black pipe just above the subframe and just used the last inch or so of the blade so as not to cut into the subframe. New coffin arm, trailing arm, top mount and Bilstein B16 fitted, now for the other 3 corners. Thanks again.

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