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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Im currently trying to remove the front control arms on my 2008 987.1 cayman and the bolts seem near impossible to remove. The nut comes off the bolt and at that point there shouldn’t be any thread and the bolt should slide out? But obviously it doesn’t. I’ve managed to move the bolt out just a little bit. Is there any tool that is good for this job or anything that I’m missing to make this easier?

cheers,
Austin

265312

265313
 

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First, make sure the arm is at normal ride height or at least roughly parallel to the ground. Next, use a pry bar or the handle of a wrench between the bolt head and the frame to provide some leverage. That usually does it for me. Worse case: use a hammer tap it until it’s flush and then finish with the pry method. Not much room in there so watch the hammer backswing and your hands while prying. Consider replacing the nut and bolt when reassembling.


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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply!

I’ve been on for around 4 hours trying to remove the bolt with different methods. It seems to be well and truly seized in there. The car is set so there is no extra load on the bushing so I don’t think that’s an issue. I’ve tried hammering it and turning it out as much as I can. The movement you can see in the photos is from turning the bolt one click at a time on a ratchet wrench. I’m wondering if I may have to use a reciprocating saw to cut through the sides of the bushing to release the arm. I’d rather have that as a last resort though!
 

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Have you tried any penetrating lubricant? I don’t like using it around rubber but if the next step is a saw...


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soaking it over night should help
what are you intending to do once you get it out ? replace it a guess
heat up the control arm part to loosen it from the bolt
fire ext. at the ready
 

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Use an old Philips screw driver or a properly sized punch and hammer to drive the bolt out from the threaded end. Easy peasy....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi guys,

So finally managed to get the arms off. What a pain! I did end up using a reciprocating saw to first cut the arm off just infront of the tube and then cut down through each side (Where you can see the rubber on each side.) Recip saws don't like cutting through rubber so it can take a while. You need to make sure you don't go down too far and cut the sub frame of course. It's easier to remove some of the plastic trim on the bottom of the car to get better access with the saw. I found cutting part through the bolt and then turning it a little allows the bolt to be cut more slowly and safely. The area near the mount was a bit marked up from trying to remove the arms so I used 'Zinc 182' coating around the area after fitting the new part. Obviously it doesn't blend in too well but you can't see this from the outside anyway. I may spray over this with grey/silver at some point.

I also ended up using (M12x1.75x100mm) bolts instead of the (M12x1.5x95mm) bolts that are standard on the car. Much easier to find in this size in the UK. 5mm longer but they work just fine. These are high tensile, plated steel bolts too so shouldn't have any issues if they need to be removed again the future. (Bolts greased too of course.)

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One tiny question - when you tightened the bolt - was the suspension "loaded" - ie - did it have the weight of the car on it? If not - the bushing in that arm is probably torqued somewhat when the car is sitting level and the suspension is not being compressed or decompressed. This can lead to short bushing life since the rubber isn't neutral (untwisted) when the vehicle is at rest.

If it wasn't - it's easy enough to fix before any damage is done.
 
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