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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

This is my first post and love reading this all!

Now I am planning to buy my first Porsche, I am fan of Cayman's. I am living in Turkey and my options are limited, now I am planning to buy one of those. Details are links are below,

First one is Cayman 2011 [email protected] miles, 245HP, 2687 CC, no major accidents, I see no major problems at service records. Price is around $43k, which is cheap for Turkey, because of high mileage. Photos can be seen below:
https://www.sahibinden.com/ilan/vasita-otomobil-porsche-2011-porsche-cayman-pdk-sanzuman-dogus-cikisli-582864228/detay

Second one is Cayman [email protected] miles, 245HP, 2687 CC, no major accidents, had some gearbox issues, fixed all runs smooth. Price is $36k. Seems normal. Even I can say a bit cheap. Photos can be seen below:
https://www.sahibinden.com/ilan/vasita-otomobil-porsche-sahibinden-2007-model-full-bakimli-cayman-dogus-bayi-cikisli-582844293/detay

Do you guys any ideas for both?
So this is it for now, your helps are very appreciated.

Best,
Erin
 

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Although I prefer the color combination of the 2007, the right choice is the 2011. The gremlins (IMS) issues have been worked out of the newer 2011 engine and DFI has been added. All around it is a better car. Good Luck!
 

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I’m biased I have a 2011PDK. Its a brilliant little car, mine has had zero issues. See if you can get the over-rev checked find out if its been tracked, or if it has any service records. I’d take it to a Porsche dealer or trusted mechanic and have them check it out, worth a few hundered Lira. Had mine 4+ years and still gives me a thrill every time I drive it. PDK’s have been very robust and are a blast to drive.
 

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unless the milage has given you specific concerns, the facelift 2011 model should have the 2.9 engine and has 265hp.
PDK is fast and gear ratios are great for daily and sporty driving.

DFI was only on the 3.4 S model if I recall correctly.
 

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i would opt for the 987.2 if your budget allows it. Simply for peace of mind although the 987.1 M97.20 2.7L lump appears to be more reliable compared to the 3.4L. But rather be safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I personally thank everyone for replying.

I am unable to reach to service records of 2011. All maintenances is done at second party services. Not in Porsche dealers/distributors. That's why I am going to rule this out but I am still not sure. It is in good shape, now it is 98k miles.

I had $2k discount on 07, it has nice color combination, grey/beige. Love it! Had new service maintenance around $5k, base protectors, shock absorber, brake fluids, filters, ignition coil, tyres (Pirelli) and many more stuff has been done. I believe it had a crush, that's why all the protectors and absorber changed with the new ones.

I think I need to choose one of them, I want Porsche badly :)

Any more ideas or comments?
 

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+1 more vote for the 2011. I bought a 2010 Boxster S PDK with 78k miles on the clock and have zero regrets; it's a great car! I've had it 5 years now and run it up to 122k with very few serious issues. These are solid cars; I plan on continuing to daily drive it (and track it!) and don't plan on selling or replacing it any time soon.

The 2011 is also 4 years newer than the 2007, so even though it may have more miles, it's all 4 years younger which offsets a lot of the general risk and will help when it comes time for resale: the top, the leather, the plastic, the rubber, etc, is all much younger. There were several improvements to 987 between 987.1 and 987.2 that make it a little nicer. And no IMS, so no IMS worries. 987.2 and 987.2S are very similar engines aside from where Porsche put the injectors. Basic maintenance on these cars is easy, and I highly recommend NOT going to the dealer if you can at all possibly avoid it. I do all the maint DIY on my own car (any mechanic can, too), so I certainly wouldn't fret about the prior owner doing it at a 3rd party shop.

Regardless of which car you choose, you may wish to have a PPI inspection done to ensure everything is in good shape with no hidden problems.
 

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First, get a pre purchase inspection (PPI). it should be done at a dealership with a PIWIS tool or an independent mechanic with a Durametric cable.

The number one thing to check is the overrev ranges (too many RPMs). There are 6 ranges, with each range 1 to 6 representing a higher RPM that was reached. Anything above range 2 could indicate damage or possible future damage as the cam chain can be stretched and valve timing affected. Porsche engine's valves can hit the pistons if cam timing varies too much. Chains can be weakened to the point they may break. Most people avoid cars with non-zero events in range 3 and above for fear it might self-destruct in the (perhaps near) future.

Checking for overrevs is critical on a manual transmission car, because missing a gear in downshifting, you can easily get the car into the dangerous over rev ranges. This is often called a 'Money Shift', as it can break the engine. With a PDK car, this is much less likely as the computers will match engine and transmission RPM and prevent you from seriously exceeding Range 1. The overrev ranges, if not 0, will give the number of ignition cycles at that range and the hour that the last event happened. Compare to total hours on the engine. If long enough time has passed since the overrev (say 50 hours), overrevs in range 1 and 2 can be forgiven. On the 2007, I do not know how well a Tiptronic might protect from overrevs. It still should be checked.

There are other things to check, but this is most critical on a used car.

V6
 

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First, get a pre purchase inspection (PPI). it should be done at a dealership with a PIWIS tool or an independent mechanic with a Durametric cable.

The number one thing to check is the overrev ranges (too many RPMs). There are 6 ranges, with each range 1 to 6 representing a higher RPM that was reached. Anything above range 2 could indicate damage or possible future damage as the cam chain can be stretched and valve timing affected. Porsche engine's valves can hit the pistons if cam timing varies too much. Chains can be weakened to the point they may break. Most people avoid cars with non-zero events in range 3 and above for fear it might self-destruct in the (perhaps near) future.

Checking for overrevs is critical on a manual transmission car, because missing a gear in downshifting, you can easily get the car into the dangerous over rev ranges. This is often called a 'Money Shift', as it can break the engine. With a PDK car, this is much less likely as the computers will match engine and transmission RPM and prevent you from seriously exceeding Range 1. The overrev ranges, if not 0, will give the number of ignition cycles at that range and the hour that the last event happened. Compare to total hours on the engine. If long enough time has passed since the overrev (say 50 hours), overrevs in range 1 and 2 can be forgiven. On the 2007, I do not know how well a Tiptronic might protect from overrevs. It still should be checked.

There are other things to check, but this is most critical on a used car.

V6
V6 is absolutely right, especially if you are worried about resale. That said, I am skeptical about the actual engine failure rate in cars with higher overrevs. I had them in my CGTS, which drove like a champ for many months despite the overrev report. Ditto the GT4. Of the people who regularly track their cars, in my opinion, there are, at max, 25% who have never missed a downshift. The rest who claim otherwise, again in mho, are lying sob’s. I think the whole overrev hysteria is Porsche trying to cover its *** on the warranty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The owner of 987.2 has increased the price around $5k. Actually the first owner (car dealer) sold the car to another car dealer and he increased the price.

On the other hand, owner of 2007 has decreased the price around $1.5k.

So I am going to see again the 2007 due to it's price. And we will run a PPI. If it is okay, I will give her a go.

What should we check first? Any ideas? (RPM problem, IMS issue, oil leaks etc.)
 

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Doubt you'll have any IMS issues, but it could happen. Just look at the service records and make sure of regular oil and filter changes.

Probably most troublesome with those engines are oil starvation and bore scoring - again rare but they do happen. Get a compression test and ask about track days. Also, make sure the transmission shifts well. There is a weakness in the shifter cable and 2ng gear synchro goes out on these after about 75k - 100k miles. Catch it early and you can replace the synchro otherwise it's a full rebuild or a new trans.

The only other things I can think of are the normal maintenance items on these cars - AOS, Water Pump, cooling hoses, suspension bushings and bearings, etc.

Oh, and if its got the old PCM factor in a swap on that. Nothing wrong per say but it is so out of date that you'll be wanting to get something from the current decade in there for conveniences (Bluetooth, navigation, backup camera).
 
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