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by: KS-CS

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I was bitten by the track bug at my very first DE experience, and have become something of a track junkie, needing my monthly fix at the track. As I have gotten faster, I have felt the need to add track seats and harnesses in order to hold me in place better. Without getting into the whole debate about the pros/cons of track seats and harnesses, with or without a rollbar, I decided that if I personally was going that route, I wanted some additional rollover protection. At the time of this writing, the choices available in the U.S. for a bolt-in rollbar for the Cayman, are relatively few. TCDesign produced one of the first ones, however, I'm not sure they are still in production or only available as a custom install; furthermore, I had read from someone who purchased one second-hand, that it is a very difficult DIY install. Heigo, in Europe, produces a bolt-in rollbar sold in the US through FVD/Brombacher, which features different options regarding the rear X-bracing and harness bar attachment.
You can read an Article on it from a member on Planet-9.com here: Bodymotion.com, had developed a combination harness/rollbar for the Cayman (though I have yet to see a picture of it installed):
The option I chose to go with is the harness/rollbar produced by BBI Autosport. I had admired their bar from the first time I saw it, however, I thought that the price (MSRP $2495.00) was more than my budget would allow. As luck would have it, I managed to buy a second-hand bar from a member (Thanks, Krokodil ;) ) at a significant savings.
I chose the BBI because I liked its design and construction. Unlike the other bolt-ins, the main hoop attaches on a bulkhead sill at the upper B-pillar area, rather than extending to the floor and attaching at the seatbelt anchor point, like the others do. This appears to offer a couple of advantages: it means the vertical supports of the main hoop are quite short (i.e. less likely to buckle under load) and the base of the hoop is large and well supported. In addition, there is no potential interference with the seats by either the main hoop or harness bar.
In the pictures above, you can see that, with the seat pushed all the way back, the roll bar sits well behind the head rest, and the harness bar is behind the luggage bar. I also like the fact that the rear X-brace is removable, allowing pretty normal use of the rear trunk when not on the track. Here are the specs of the bar: Specs Construction: 4130 chromoly steel seamless DOM tubingWall Thickness: 0.120"Mounting Plates: 3/16" steel, water-jet cutWelding: Notched and TIG weldedWeight: approximately 44 lbs. Here are some close-up photos of the front and rear support bases:
And here is a photo of the interlocking joints which connect the support braces to the main hoop section; each joint is held together by 2 opposing 1/4" socket head bolts:
INSTALLATION I managed to do this installation by myself, in my garage, but I will tell you that it was much tougher and more frustrating than I initially expected, and ended-up taking nearly 2 full days to complete. Hopefully, you can learn by my mistakes . . . STEP 1: Some preparation needs to take place, prior to starting the install, depending on whether or not you are intending to keep your rear interior trim intact or not. Installation of the bar requires either modification (i.e. cutting) or removal of the rear cubby storage and shock tower cover trim pieces. I wanted to be able to restore my car back to stock appearance in the future, so I purchased an extra set of the 2 pieces above from someone stripping their Cayman for a race car build. I sent the extra set off to Joey at BBI, who made all the necessary cuts in the plastic parts (as well as modifying a couple of small metal spacers - more about that later) prior to starting. This included separating the shock tower cover portion from the speaker trim, to facilitate installation after the bar is in place, in addition to the relief cuts for where the bars protrude. The alternative would be to either install the bar without reinstalling the trim pieces (maybe if it is a track-only car), or removing the original trim and sending it off to be modified and returned, prior to starting the rollbar install (you could always purchase replacement trim at a later date if you decide to remove the bar). I don't know if BBI would make their cutting templates available to anyone purchasing the bar, but I thought it was well worth the $300 or so (labor + shipping) that it cost to have BBI do it. In any case, here is the Article I did on removing all the rear interior trim, which is the first step: REMOVAL OF REAR INTERIOR TRIM
Removal of the rear interior trim pieces is an unfortunate necessity with a number of modifications, including changing the rear struts, changing stereo speakers, painting the trim pieces, or as in my case, installing a rollbar. This article should help to guide those who are unfamiliar with this process. Step 1 - Remove engine cover carpet. This is fairly easily accomplished by using a trim removal tool to pry up a front corner of the carpet first. Pull back on the front edge to release the front tabs, then by slightly bending the front of the carpet you can release the tabs on either side, and finally pull the pad free from the rear retention tabs.
Step 2 - Remove front engine bulkhead trim. This includes the luggage bar and long plastic protector on the front edge of the engine compartment.
First remove the luggage bar by pulling up on the rubber end covers, to reveal 2 M8 star screws. I had to shop around to 4 different stores until I finally found the appropriate key drive for these screws at an O'Reilly's Auto Parts.
After you remove the luggage bar, the front plastic trim is held in place by a single T20 screw, and several clips. After removing the screw, you can simply pop up the trim with your thumbs starting in the middle front, until you get it free.
Step 3 - Removal of rear engine bulkhead trim. Remove the 2 T20 screws from inside the oil/coolant filling compartment as shown. Then carefully using a trim tool, pry up the edges of the long silver trim cover starting near the middle. I found it required a fair amount of force to get the first clip to pop free; after that it went pretty easily. It is held in place by about 6 pairs of clips from one end to the other.
Step 4 - Removal of B and C pillar trim. If you intend to remove any of the rear trim pieces from the shock tower covers forward, it is usually necessary to remove the large C-pillar trim first. This is because of the retention screws for those parts which hide behind it. Begin by removing the small shoulder belt cap at the B-pillar. You can grasp and edge either along the side or back as shown below and it just snaps off.
There is a small rubber trim piece at the top of the B-pillar - don't lose it.
Next, the upper, front section of the C-pillar trim is attached by a couple of clips. I just tried to work my fingers behind the edge enough to pull down and release those clips.
Remove the small plastic cover over a metal hook at the rear of the roofline as shown below. I think the hooks are designed to be used with some kind of cargo net divider in the back.
There is a clip which resides just below the opening for the hook above; you can pop it free either by working your fingers into the opening and pulling down, or using a trim tool to release it. Note that there is a small plastic strip on the trim which will catch on the metal hook, when you try to pull it down.
After you free the front of the C-pillar trim, work your way rearward pulling out at the top. There is another retention clip that resides under the interior light in the piece. Once you have released all the clips you should be able to slip the whole piece up and out, however, be sure to disconnect the light wire, if you are removing it from the car. Step 5 - Removal of speaker/tower cover. Remove the T20 screws holding the various parts as shown below:
The tower cover is also held in place by 2 clips along the inside:
And also 2 clips where it joins the cubby storage unit:
You should now be able to remove the tower cover portion; if you intend to remove it from the car, then you will have to unscrew the speakers from the rear.
Step 6 - Removal of the storage cubby. In addition to removal of the T20 screws shown in the picture above, there are 2 additional screws near the front of the piece; one next to the B-pillar (not shown) and one along the front bulkhead. The rest of the B-pillar portion is held in place by one clip near the quarter window, and a couple of clips which you can release by pulling inwards.
Now you can lift out the cubby storage unit and you are done. Note: be careful to save all the little screws and account for all the little retention clips, since they occasionally fall out when you remove the pieces, and they will be necessary when it comes time to re-install (which is all done pretty much in reverse order). Time for a cold one!! :cheers:
ROLLBAR INSTALLATION One problem I had not foreseen, was that the harness bar portion of the bar, will interfere with opening the storage cubbys, unless you cut-off the corners as you can see I did below. It's not pretty, but it really isn't that visible, and it still allows you to use the storage space. Just remember to do this before you bolt the main hoop into place.
STEP 2: If you are using the pre-cut trim pieces, then you need to re-install the cubby storage and speaker portions first - you will save the B-pillar trim and shock tower cover for last. In addition, I would recommend re-installing the large C-pillar cover at this point as well. The mistake I made was installing the main hoop and side supports first, thinking that I would still be able to slide the C-pillar trim into place - which turned out to be impossible. (This boo-boo alone probably cost me nearly an additional day of struggle and frustration.) You can place the main hoop section into position, but do not fasten it into place until you install the C-pillar pieces into place (which will require moving the hoop forward a little bit). STEP 3: Install the main hoop. This seems fairly straight-forward, but is not without some difficulties as well. First remove the 15mm bolts which hold the shoulder harness guides in place:
The base of the roll bar will raise the shoulder harness guide by about 3/16" which means that the little metal spacers (arrow in picture above, and modified in picture below) will not clear the bolt seen above which holds the quarter window in place. Therefore, some grinding away of the piece is necessary to get it to fit (I had purchased an extra set of the spacers in advance, and let BBI modify them with the trim pieces). If you are handy with a grinder or Dremel, then you could probably do this yourself at the time of installation, since I don't think it would seriously affect anything if you left them that way, if you were to remove the bar at a later date.
Next you want to loosely bolt the main hoop into place. This proved to be easier said than done. First of all, the stock bolts (10x25mm) are too short to accomplish this. I ended up needing to get a pair of 10x40mm (1.25 pitch) bolts to replace the stock ones. This is because the shoulder harness guide, base plate and B-pillar holes simply would not line up evenly no matter how I tried to shift the bar with some shimming. After some struggle, trying to be very careful not to cross-thread the bolts, I managed to get them both started. STEP 4: Side Braces. The next step is to attach the side braces to the main hoop section and shock towers. Again, owing to the very tight fit, and slight variations which probably exist from car to car, this can be somewhat of a challenge as well. You have to remove 2 of the 13mm nuts on the shock tower; the more inboard of these flanged nuts will need to be replaced with a standard 13 mm nut (Thread-Lok or similar when you finally tighten it) because of clearance issues.
If you are lucky, you will get the joints to hook-up on the first try; if not (like me), then you will have to try and manipulate the main hoop a little to get them started. Once you get the joints lined-up, then you should go ahead and tighten them as much as possible. Another issue: there is very little clearance between the uppermost bolts and the headliner, which make it very difficult to use a regular Allen wrench. I ended up purchasing another 1/4" Allen wrench with a long handle, and then cutting down the end to about 3/4" long, so that I could tighten these bolts easier (most of the other bolts are easily tightened with a ratchet wrench w/ 1/4" hex head socket key).
STEP 5: Install X-brace. Again, depending on your car, this might fit the first time, or not. I was able to get 3 of the 4 joints started, but for the life of me, I could not get the 4th joint to mate, even though it was only within about 1/64" of making it (see below). After a somewhat frantic call to Krokodil for help, he suggested that I try jacking up the car at various points, to see if I could get the chassis to twist enough to get it to go. Happily, this finally worked. He assured me that after a little time, the bars should "settle" into position, and I should be able to remove and install the X-brace without so much drama in the future.
Once the X-bar was in place, I went around to the various bolts on the X-brace, tightening them in succession, until I got all the joints seated as much as possible. After that, I tightened all the bolts at the front and rear bases. STEP 6: Reinstall remaining trim pieces. Down the home stretch now . . . reinstall the shock tower cover and shoulder harness/B-pillar trim. Then replace the front and rear engine bulkhead trim pieces, carpet cover (a little more difficult now, with the harness bar and X-brace in the way), and you're finally done!
Final Thoughts: Pros: Strong, well-designed and well-made combination harness/roll barAttractive appearance for a roll-bar (IMO)Versatility - X-brace can be removed for using car for DD, travel, etc. Cons: Requires significant modification or removal of interior trim pieces.Moderately difficult to install and remove (as a DIY project)Expensive - however considering the design, construction, and fabrication time that went into it, not unreasonable. DISCLAIMER: I have no affiliation with BBI Autosport, nor did I receive any financial consideration or other compensation for the production of this Article.

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Hi there. Can you see the photos in this article still. About to fit a rollbar and keen to see pics for interior removal.

thanks
 
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