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its pretty straight forward.. my video is useless but i just want to demonstrate that the big brake kit i sell has top release pads.. which makes life 20x easier..i dont think there is a video on line right now..even at you tube..

Lemon
 

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Ha, I appreciate it, but I am sticking to my no mods rule on this car for a bit.
 

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I gave up on changing the front pads and just let them on. For the life of me, i could not figure out how to get the pad sensors off. It looked like they did not slide off the top of the pad. The pad had a ridge that seemed to prevent the sensor from sliding upward and off.

Is there something I'm missing here?

Also, where do you place the caliper as you're getting the pads off it? Do you just let it drop to the floor? There doesn't seem to be a logical place to put it.
 

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Caymudgeon
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I gave up on changing the front pads and just let them on. For the life of me, i could not figure out how to get the pad sensors off. It looked like they did not slide off the top of the pad. The pad had a ridge that seemed to prevent the sensor from sliding upward and off.

Is there something I'm missing here?

Also, where do you place the caliper as you're getting the pads off it? Do you just let it drop to the floor? There doesn't seem to be a logical place to put it.
Just pull the sensors straight up and out of the pads. I used a small curved needle nose pliers. It takes some force. Hang the caliper from the suspension coil spring using a bungee cord or piece of rope, being careful not to put too much stress on the brake line.
 

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There is a metal spring clip. Do you push the spring inward, or outward? I tried to pull the sensor out by clamping into the metal lip (inward) and could not get it out. Further, it visually appears as if I might have damaged the wire being sandwiched in between the clip.
 

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Caymudgeon
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There is a metal spring clip. Do you push the spring inward, or outward? I tried to pull the sensor out by clamping into the metal lip (inward) and could not get it out. Further, it visually appears as if I might have damaged the wire being sandwiched in between the clip.
Maybe my memory has faded but I don't recall a clip on the sensor wire. It will probably help to get the pad free from the caliper so that the large spring clips that hold the pad in the caliper do not interfere with removal of the sensor wire. Once you have unobstructed access to the sensor wire, just pull it out using a needle nose pliers on either side of the little block that's wedged into the brake pad. You don't want to yank on the wires but rather pull on the black piece that is wedged into the notch in the brake pad.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
A video.. actually that is a nice idea.. unfortunately I'm not planning to swap pads until the next season.
Regardless of video or just verbiage you will take a longer time with the first attempt. The next corner will take half the time of the first.
If you have particular questions, shoot me a PM and will try and help...
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #28
One other thing... once you unmount the caliper bolts, you SHOULD replace with NEW bolts --- Porsche specifies these bolts to be a one time use only. I've seen posts where other people say that they just re-use the originals, but ... those engineers make the requirement for a reason, IMO. That is why I went with the "stud kit" --- I got them from Schnell (no affection). Mounting instructions for the studs come with the parts -- though the process is very simple.
D
 

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I know everyone is complaining about the 981 fronts, but they have been spoiled with the open top on the rears that makes it a quick job. Most every car I have owned and changed pads on was not a 15 job. You can do it. Just leave yourself lots of time so you can do it at whatever pace it works out to be.



I have never changed brake pads. Without a video (unless someone can provide a link), how hard would it be for me to change the front pads on my 2015 CGTS?
 

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on other cars I use an upside down bucket to rest the caliper on.

Just pull the sensors straight up and out of the pads. I used a small curved needle nose pliers. It takes some force. Hang the caliper from the suspension coil spring using a bungee cord or piece of rope, being careful not to put too much stress on the brake line.
 

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Good stuff, thanks. Two questions:

Today when I had my shop do the swap to the Pagids, we remounted the original front caliper bolts with about a 65 #/lb torque. I have last track day in two weeks, is it absolutely necessary to go back in and replace the bolts with the stud kit? Or something that can wait until the winter?

For the brake sensors, we disconnected the harness and left the sensors on the OEM pads. The red BRAKE warning light is now on as well as the BRAKE WEAR yellow boxed warning. After reading about a dozen threads tonight, I think I will scavenge the old sensor wires from the pads, and zip tie them as described to the brake lines. Or since all 8 of them are pretty beat up, should I just cut the wires, splice them, and then zip tie to the brake lines? My two track days in Europe (on delivery) and two and a half at Miller Motorsports pretty much fried my OEM pads and the wires (but no light on...yet)

Also wonder whether or not when I reconnect the harness, if the red BRAKE light will go out or if it is latched and I have to pay Porsche to reset the system. :(

Appreciate any advice.
 

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Caymudgeon
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Good stuff, thanks. Two questions:

Today when I had my shop do the swap to the Pagids, we remounted the original front caliper bolts with about a 65 #/lb torque. I have last track day in two weeks, is it absolutely necessary to go back in and replace the bolts with the stud kit? Or something that can wait until the winter?

For the brake sensors, we disconnected the harness and left the sensors on the OEM pads. The red BRAKE warning light is now on as well as the BRAKE WEAR yellow boxed warning. After reading about a dozen threads tonight, I think I will scavenge the old sensor wires from the pads, and zip tie them as described to the brake lines. Or since all 8 of them are pretty beat up, should I just cut the wires, splice them, and then zip tie to the brake lines? My two track days in Europe (on delivery) and two and a half at Miller Motorsports pretty much fried my OEM pads and the wires (but no light on...yet)

Also wonder whether or not when I reconnect the harness, if the red BRAKE light will go out or if it is latched and I have to pay Porsche to reset the system. :(

Appreciate any advice.
Now that you have done the pad change, leave the caliper bolts alone until the next swap. Reusing once is no big deal but studs are better for recurring changes.

On the sensors, you should leave the pig tails attached to the car, not to the OEM pads. Reconnect the pig tails, tie them back, and your brake wear lights will go out unless the sensors have already been worn thru. No dealer reset is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
MrBrown... thank you for clarifying and answering Cayman pyrat's questions...
D
 

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I'm waiting on my new CGTS, and having read this thread I started looking for a stud kit so I will have them on hand when I go to change my pads. I don't find anything on Schnell's site, or anywhere else after a quick search. Schnell doesn't have a contact page either that I can find. Where can I get some?
 

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Well, I see they have a phone no. (duh) and since they are a sponsor I can just PM them, that will be taken care of. This if off topic, but since there are some track addicts on it I will ask anyway, what go you use to change the gear oil in the manual tranny? I will have PTV and LSD on my GTS and I plan to flush with new fluid after about 1000 miles or so as PM. I used Mobil Delvac with a moly additive for my CS, but with the LSD clutches this might not be the best thing to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yep.. Schnell's Lemon is up front guy.. give him a call.
no information on gear oils.. maybe ask Lemon about this also.
D
 

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Thanks guys. I have a 981 Boxster Base. The brake warning light comes on for 3 days and I drive about 150miles after the light comes on. Do I need to change the brake sensors? And what is the size and required torque for the caliper bolts and the size for the wrench? Thanks IMG_1666.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #38
OK, your warning message is pretty clear. To verify, take a quick look at the thickness of the pads ... If the pad surface is less than the thickness of the backing plate, or.. you can't find any pad material, yep, time to change.

There are folks that suggest that you can "re-use" the caliper bolts, but this is NOT the recommendation of PAG. And they are not all that expensive, so you should buy new bolts along with your new pads.

Finally, the bake sensors will need to be replaced. Once the sensors wear through to the point that the maintenance message pops, they are not functional any longer -- once their continuity is severed (by wear), they remain severed.

This might also be a good time to bleed the brakes -- especially if you've not done it in the last year..
So, your parts lists would be: pads, bolts sensors.

I hope my DIY discussion is clear enough.. as far as bolt torque specs--- the value of 63 ft-lbs has been cited often in other posts.
The stud nuts that I use have a lower torque spec.. but stay with the 63 number for the new bolts.
AND, make sure you tread the bolts into the mounting holes carefully...you do not want to cross thread those babies..

Hope this helps..
D
 

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OK, your warning message is pretty clear. To verify, take a quick look at the thickness of the pads ... If the pad surface is less than the thickness of the backing plate, or.. you can't find any pad material, yep, time to change.

There are folks that suggest that you can "re-use" the caliper bolts, but this is NOT the recommendation of PAG. And they are not all that expensive, so you should buy new bolts along with your new pads.

Finally, the bake sensors will need to be replaced. Once the sensors wear through to the point that the maintenance message pops, they are not functional any longer -- once their continuity is severed (by wear), they remain severed.

This might also be a good time to bleed the brakes -- especially if you've not done it in the last year..
So, your parts lists would be: pads, bolts sensors.

I hope my DIY discussion is clear enough.. as far as bolt torque specs--- the value of 63 ft-lbs has been cited often in other posts.
The stud nuts that I use have a lower torque spec.. but stay with the 63 number for the new bolts.
AND, make sure you tread the bolts into the mounting holes carefully...you do not want to cross thread those babies..

Hope this helps..
D
Thanks, I just come to United States, one more question, do people use metric or imperial allen socket here for Porsche? What is the size of the allen I need to use for caliper bolts.
And which torque wrench i am gonna use for the caliper bolts, 3/8inch or 1/4inch
 

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Caymudgeon
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Thanks, I just come to United States, one more question, do people use metric or imperial allen socket here for Porsche? What is the size of the allen I need to use for caliper bolts.
And which torque wrench i am gonna use for the caliper bolts, 3/8inch or 1/4inch
You need a T55 torx bit for the caliper bolts. For torque wrench, typically you would need a 3/8 or 1/2" torque wrench to get to 63 ft-lb. If you're buying, buy a 1/2" wrench that goes to 150 ft-lb so you can use it on lug bolts too.
 
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