[N_Jay]

I am coming up on 90K miles and about to change the plugs on my 2012 2.9.

Since I don't have a full history, I do not know if the plugs have been changed previously.

Assuming they have not, how likely am I to have an issue?

Rather than just force any that are snug, I wanted to get some tips.

Hot, Warm, or Cold is best to pull them?\
Any value to using some penetrating spray around the plugs and soaking before trying?

Any recommendation for a thread lube/anti-seize on the new plugs?

 

[PorscheGreg]

A warm engine is best. If you drive the car until it gets to operating temp, it will likely be warm by the time you get it lifted, wheels removed and to the plugs. You don’t need any penetrating oil. Just use a good socket and extensions with steady pressure when removing.

A real big no to antisieze for the new plugs.

 

[GT3Twenty10]

A warm engine is best. If you drive the car until it gets to operating temp, it will likely be warm by the time you get it lifted, wheels removed and to the plugs. You don’t need any penetrating oil. Just use a good socket and extensions with steady pressure when removing.

A real big no to antisieze for the new plugs.

That and wheel studs.. anti seize belongs on wheel hub bores… this way you don’t have to kick them off.. my MB was real bad until I did this

 

[N_Jay]

Thanks for the tips.

I know all about anti-seize and torquing threads, but also learned long ago the some metals seem to like a little.
In a past life I saw way too many times the plug threads on 60's/70's Fiats come right out with the plug.

Never had stuck rotors on an MB, but almost every time with an old Audi.

 

[Boristhespyder]

Have a variety of extensions, shorts mids, longs and a U joint adaptor. The cover plate hardware is easy to drop, consider a magnet, also remembering them as torx bolts so you need a set. When you remove or replace the covers they only go in and out in a circuitous route. You need patience so they don't get bent they are thin aluminum. Make sure you are always square on each plug, use progressive force don't crank on them.

 

[Boristhespyder]

Thanks for the tips.

I know all about anti-seize and torquing threads, but also learned long ago the some metals seem to like a little.
In a past life I saw way too many times the plug threads on 60's/70's Fiats come right out with the plug.

Never had stuck rotors on an MB, but almost every time with an old Audi.

Did thousands of Fiat plugs, never saw ONE bring threads with it. We saw a lot of " I'll make it worse then bring it to the dealership" repairs. I'm confident many of those owners ran on the principle tighter is always better, perhaps that accounts for the plug behavior. Those Lampredi engines were incredible given the era of their design, twas the fiat bodies that sent them to early graves. Sorry, this reads as defensive and maybe it is. We took cars other dealers couldn't fix because my dad worked on race engines, Ferrari's and more. In the era of Fiats, double overhead cam engines with aluminum heads were not ubiqoitous, as such they got ruined a lot by USA mechanics. They damaged the calipers the same way, via igornace of disassembly.

 

[N_Jay]

Maybe I just had "bad Fiat luck", they were usually poorly maintained before I got them (high school years).

Yes, loved those twin-cam engines.
And yes, rust was on spec sheet for every panel and joint.

I think there was a joke about the Germans inventing rust, and licensing it to the Italians.

 

[Boristhespyder]

The Germans sold Italy the steel and they would not sell them the premium product, the joke is based in truth. That's also why a Ferrari 308 GTS stored and cared for like a child will almost always have rust. If you drove Fiat's where they salted roads you literally had about five years. Side note story, how did my dad get the dealership? Fiat brought four cars nobody could repair to my dad, he fixed them all. Then they asked can we bring some more? My dad a proud Italian himself said, "sure bring them all". After the second round of repairs and customer reviews they came a third time and said "would you like to be a dealer"?

 

[racergreg]

I will add one small thing - get a set of LOCKING extensions. I sourced a set on Amazon or maybe Harbor Freight. They were inexpensive and saved a lot of time and trouble.

 

[N_Jay]

So how much risk their really if one or more being stuck.
Some say to retorque forward and then remove.
There is no shortage of "old mechanics tales" as to the best way.

Maybe I'm over worried?


As for the Fiats, we started with a 1967 124 sedan, then followef that with a 1971 124 Sport Coupe with a twin cam. Then a Lancia Beta Sedan, then another 71 124 to borrow parts from, and then a x1/9 I was going to put the spare TwinCam engine into, but never finished, then discovered Porsche with a 77, 924 Martini.

 

[ELCID86]

I will add one small thing - get a set of LOCKING extensions. I sourced a set on Amazon or maybe Harbor Freight. They were inexpensive and saved a lot of time and trouble.

Something like this would be very useful, thanks . I didn’t even know they existed.

NEIKO 00295A 3/8" Drive Locking Extension Bar Set, 3 Piece, 3", 6", 10"

https://a.co/d/hcpzFGJ

Shawn in VA (USA)

 

[racergreg]

NEIKO 00295A 3/8" Drive Locking Extension Bar Set, 3 Piece, 3", 6", 10"

https://a.co/d/hcpzFGJ

Yes, that is perfect, it may even be the set I bought. Well worth the $20.

 

[XuTVJet]

If a plug feels like it's getting tighter and harder to loosen as it's coming out, tighten it back in a bit, then loosen again. Plugs sometimes build carbon on the threads nearest the combustion chamber and that carbon gums the threads in the head, making it hard to get the plug loosened and out. By loosening, tightening, loosening the plug, you'll break down the carbon. The last thing you want to have happen is gum up the threads so badly that it cross threads the head on the way out.

 

[randall.pearl]

A warm engine is best. If you drive the car until it gets to operating temp, it will likely be warm by the time you get it lifted, wheels removed and to the plugs. You don’t need any penetrating oil. Just use a good socket and extensions with steady pressure when removing. A real big no to antisieze for the new plugs.

Actually, a totally cold engine is best. Heat expands metal. Plugs will be much easier to deal with when engine is cold.

 

[randall.pearl]

I am coming up on 90K miles and about to change the plugs on my 2012 2.9.

Since I don't have a full history, I do not know if the plugs have been changed previously.

Assuming they have not, how likely am I to have an issue?

Rather than just force any that are snug, I wanted to get some tips.

Hot, Warm, or Cold is best to pull them?\
Any value to using some penetrating spray around the plugs and soaking before trying?

Any recommendation for a thread lube/anti-seize on the new plugs?

Cold engine.
No penetrating oil

I buy quite a bit from FCP Euro. The Porsche Ignition Coil Kit - Beru 996IGNCLKT Includes

Qty	Part	SKU	Brand	Price
6	Direct Ignition Coil	BRU-ZS178		$263.34
6	Spark Plug	BOS-FGR5KQE0		$35.34
1	Dielectric Grease	PMX-81150		$2.69

The 2nd time I have used those plugs. Very happy with them. Not sure why they include the grease. Porsche does not recommend its use as it acts as an insulator where good contact is important.

Here is the video I found most helpful for the coils and plugs. There is a need to be careful when pulling the electrical connectors from the coils. Push at the back of the release with fingers vs. using flat blade screwdriver to pry up (as I dumbly did and broke the tab off of one ☹

I would recommend this swivel spark plug socket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Racer1735]

...but the video shows a screwdriver being used to lift the tab?

 

[Aeneas137]

Cold engine.
No penetrating oil

I buy quite a bit from FCP Euro. The Porsche Ignition Coil Kit - Beru 996IGNCLKT Includes

Qty	Part	SKU	Brand	Price
6	Direct Ignition Coil	BRU-ZS178		$263.34
6	Spark Plug	BOS-FGR5KQE0		$35.34
1	Dielectric Grease	PMX-81150		$2.69

The 2nd time I have used those plugs. Very happy with them. Not sure why they include the grease. Porsche does not recommend its use as it acts as an insulator where good contact is important.

Here is the video I found most helpful for the coils and plugs. There is a need to be careful when pulling the electrical connectors from the coils. Push at the back of the release with fingers vs. using flat blade screwdriver to pry up (as I dumbly did and broke the tab off of one ☹

I would recommend this swivel spark plug socket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014ZVSVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great suggestions! thank you for the links. already have the plug but I'm going to get the coils. FCP is a great source, picked up my rotors and pads from them.

 

[randall.pearl]

...but the video shows a screwdriver being used to lift the tab?

Yep, the video is not perfect. I always try to watch multiple videos, along with referring to "101 Project for your Porsche Boxster" and then compiling best approach.

 

[deilenberger]

The 2nd time I have used those plugs. Very happy with them. Not sure why they include the grease. Porsche does not recommend its use as it acts as an insulator where good contact is important.

The dielectric grease is intended to be used on the porcelain part of the spark plug to keep the rubber boot on the end of the coil from sticking to it. It is not intended for use on plug threads. Any silicone grease is suitable for this use.

That's a quite comprehensive kit they've put together. I doubt if the dielectric grease is mentioned in the factory manual but it's an excellent standard practice with coil on plug designs.

 

[N_Jay]

Dielectric grease should not affect the electrical connection.
It will be displaced by the connection and seal the metals from moisture and corrosion.