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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i purchase my 2007 used. got a great deal blah blah blah. Love the car more than my family etc. Between the side intakes and the rear wheels there is a patch of some sort of protective coating. It appear is was clear at one point but now it has yellowed compared to the artic silver. I don't know if it was originally yellowish (i doubt it) or if age and weather, or faulty application has modified it. Is it possible to remove this kind of coating? What is the cost i.e. removing the paint, removing the clear coat, both. (not in $, but in damage)

thanks

Noffy
 

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It should be fairly simple to remove that piece and replace with a new one from the dealer. I don't have the part # handy but do a search here.

Not the ONLY thinkg I would warn you about is that if that area has been repainted/repaired, there is a slight chance that you'll pull the paint off with the clear cover. If you know the area is still covered in OEM paint, then I wouldn't worry.

I had mine peeled off when I did a clear bra install along the entire side sill up to the rear wheel arch area.
 

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heat up with a heat gun and peel off. Bring patience & elbow grease b/c the glue is tough to get out. BTW, the factory clear bra near the intake yellows/fades quickly. Either get rid of it, or go to a shop and have them cut you a new 3M piece.
 

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I love the "heat gun"

We used one in Chemistry class years ago and it was: Basically a hair dryer.

If you paint it red and charge 5 times as much it is a heat gun.
 

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I also purchased an artic silver 07 and had the same problem, I was able to remove quite easily just heating for a few minutes with a hair dryer. be careful if you use a heat gun as too much heat can damage the paint. The sticker itself peals off easily and leaves behind a slight resedue that can be removed with goo-gone or just a little elbow greese.

I purchased new ones from suncoast for around $25 including shipping. Then I made a "slip solution" with baby shampoo and water as discribed in clear bra installs. (a few drops of shampoo into an old house cleaner bottle, then fill the rest with water) just spray the area of the car, spray the back of the sticker (use a lot of solution on the sticker) and spray your hand so you will not get any finger prints on the sticky side of the sticker, and will also allow you time to line things up correctly. Use a plastic hard edge (old credit card works) wrapped with a paper towel and work it from the middle of the new sticker to the outside edges to remove excess water solution after you have it in place. Once done with this, use your hard card to make sure all of the edges are sealed down with no water under them. Then just wait a few hours for it to completly dry. Once all the water solution is gone, the sticker will be sealed and it will be both clear and protected again.:dance:
 

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the issue is that the material used to do it is pretty horrible. if you are interested, email me and i can get you a set(for relative cheap) from our installer using 3m... it is what i have on my cars and it looks perfect and is still glossy.

[email protected]
 

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I love the "heat gun"

We used one in Chemistry class years ago and it was: Basically a hair dryer.

If you paint it red and charge 5 times as much it is a heat gun.
Heat guns are pretty serious.

Yeah, they're comprised of the same systems as a hair dryer, but they put out way more heat.

I got a 1" scar on my knee when I was using one whilst at the end of a few days of not enough sleep. Started to pass out while holding it and the nozzle touched my knee for a split second... instant, like touching an exhaust header.
 

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Damned if I would apply a heat gun to my auto paint. Hair dryer is OK - cars are as sturdy as heads. But heat guns are used to remove paint or varnish, and I have scorched teak parts while using one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay great, thanks for all the info. I will give it a shot at somepoint when I get a free day.
 

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Not sure if the film that Porsche uses is the same as 3M and Ventureshield. Once you get a lip pulled I used the alcohol/water solution to loosen the adhesive. It's what is used for applying the film. Also when you pull the film don't pull directly away from the car. Pulling sideways will reduce the chance of paint lift. I removed the film on my last car before I sold it. It took a long time as I had the whole hood, front bumper and entire fenders to remove. I used vise grips to get a better grip on the film. The car looked brand new when it was off! Not a single blem! New owner was shocked!
 

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Wouldn't it defeat the purpose of having a clear bra if the underlying paint came off with it? Has anybody actually have this happen to them?

-Moto


How much of a risk for the underlying paint to come off during the removal of the bra?
 

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You do not need a lot of heat to remove the clear film. In fact, too much will make it more difficult and leave more glue residue on the surface. Use a hairdryer or heat gun...but just 'warm it' slightly as you pull.

The biggest trick to reducing the amount of glue residue left on the paint surface AND damage to the surface itself is to pull slowly and pull 'parallel' to body panel, not up away from it.
 
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