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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just rounding a curve a couple days ago when the Check Engine light (visit workshop, or whatever) warning came on. Car was running fine so I finished running my errand. Next morning the light remained so I plugged-in the trusty Durametric cable and ran a scan.
I've got a 2010 2.9L Cayman (with the Bosch DME). The code (B1610) description was:
Air Mass (HFM) ahead of throttle valve - implausible
No signal/communication​

I reset the fault and have been driving for about 50 miles without re-occurrence.
I searched and could not find any threads with this fault code. Does anyone have any idea what caused it? Maybe a loose connection? A few months ago I removed the air-flow sensor to get easier access when I installed Numeric shifter cables. Maybe I disturbed the connection? Or maybe the Cayman just got lonely and wanted some TLC?
 

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Do you have an oiled performance air filter installed, like K&N? The oil can upset air mass sensor. You might try cleaning it. While you are in there check to see if there is a oil in the intake plumbing.
 

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I received this same code a few times after installing the GT3 throttle body and IPD plenum. Get some mass air flow sensor cleaner from your local parts store and clean the MAF and plenum. Also, what Rob VN said ^^
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you have an oiled performance air filter installed, like K&N? The oil can upset air mass sensor. You might try cleaning it. While you are in there check to see if there is a oil in the intake plumbing.
Thanks for the reply Rob - I value your experience.

Well this spring I installed a BMC filter. I have about 9K miles on it and have never cleaned/oiled it - so it has never been over-saturated (and wasn't when I installed it). If the code shows up again I'll open-up the cover and look around for oil inside. When I had that air flow sensor hose off last summer (installed the Numeric cables) I looked for oil and saw none.

Could a clogged AOS also cause this problem? BTW, just remembered I changed the oil a few weeks ago - but I'm sure it wasn't over-filled. I left it about 1 bar down from full and only added a little over 8 qts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
did you also over oiled in the oil change? guess where all those extra oil goes?

lemon
Thanks, but I thought I made it pretty clear - no overfill. I've done all my own oil changes for almost 5 yrs. I know it was never overfilled - especially this one.
Since I was using the 5 qt jugs, I was careful to sneak-up on the "full" mark.
Also, car is a DD and has never been tracked; only driven mildly aggressive. So oil ingestion would be unlikely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I started this thread about 2 yrs ago - due to Check Engine light (code B1610, "Air Mass HFM ahead of throttle valve - implausible. No Signal/communication"). I cleared the code with Durametric and all was good for 2 yrs until this week. The B1610 code came back, along with a very slight stumble - noticeable when I gave light throttle input. Heavy throttle felt fine.

So I cleared it again but it came back a few days later.

So I figured I'd follow the advice I got last time from RobVN and others. Got some CRC MAF cleaner and a set of security torx bits. Guess what - no screws holding the sensor to the body. It is all one assembly.
987_2_MAF.jpg MAF_body.jpg
air input.JPG

So I decided to remove the whole assembly (p/n 987-606-165-01) and try hosing it down real well with the cleaner. I'm letting it dry now. I'm in humid Florida and the cleaner spray is cold - so I got some condensation.

I haven't put it back in yet but I thought I'd make some comments.
  • Couldn't get the wire harness off while the MAF was attached to the car (the clip is different from older ones).
  • Had a bear of a time getting the MAF off. Had to totally remove the air box hose first. Once it was removed I could see how the harness was attached.
  • Then I couldn't find a way to remove it from the engine compartment from above. Other stuff is in the way.
  • Finally worked it down past the transmission and axle and removed it from below.
  • I'm sure it will be just as much fun to re-assemble :mad:
I'll post back the results tomorrow. I hope that cleaning fixes it - otherwise it looks like I'll need a new one. I see Pelican has a Bosch one for $226, which is lots better than the Porsche labelled one ($480).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
As suspected, reassembly was a b**ch. The angle and tightness made it tough to get the intake hose back on. What I did was:
  • lightly lube the rubber with a very small amount of lithium grease. Same with 'O' ring
  • make sure 'O' ring is properly seated in the air-filter connector
  • insert one end of hose on the MAF with loose clamp
  • insert MAF into the filter box connection, then close the latches till the click into position
  • hardest part - force the other end of the hose completely around the throttle valve. A little prying needed. It needs to completely seat
  • tighten both hose clamps. I was more cautious on the MAF one since MAF is plastic. It just needs to seal any air leak.

So, it's been about 4 days with moderate driving - one long highway trip. Running at various RPMs including a spell near redline. No re-occurrence of the CEL.:beer:
 

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There are MAF cleaners that you can spray while the engine is running, so instead of removing the MAF, you remove the air filter and spray the cleaner into the tube from the air filter to the MAF. That is a lot less work than removing the MAF.
 
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