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I'm sure its been mentioned before but Costco routinely has the 5000lb QuickJack BL-5000SLX on sale for $999+tx delivered. https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2c000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html
Its lowered height is 3" so no messing around with 2x12s or ramps. Also, you should be able to store them under the parked car when not in use.
Much easier and quicker than jack stands and you use the factory lift points. Hummm...my birthday and father's day is coming soon.:) I think I could even get my fat belly under there much easier. Kinda tight on jack-stands.
QuickJack.jpg
 

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I'm sure its been mentioned before but Costco routinely has the 5000lb QuickJack BL-5000SLX on sale for $999+tx delivered. https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2c000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html
Its lowered height is 3" so no messing around with 2x12s or ramps. Also, you should be able to store them under the car when not in use.
Much easier and quicker than jack stands and use the factory lift points. Hummm...my birthday and father's day is coming soon.:) I think I could even get my fat belly under there much easier. Kinda tight on jack-stands.
View attachment 207245
Thanks for that tip. I wouldn't have thought to look to Costco for that item.

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Thanks for that tip. I wouldn't have thought to look to Costco for that item.
While some CostCo warehouse stores have been known to carry this, most don't. So you might need to order online.
 

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QuickJack is nice but I like the convenience of JP stands since I've used it now. I can stack them up so storage is not issue. Besides not then you would need to put the car
on all four. On the 2x12s I agree. Planning to return the costco jack and get some other low profile jack.
 

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QuickJack is nice but I like the convenience of JP stands since I've used it now. I can stack them up so storage is not issue. Besides not then you would need to put the car
on all four. On the 2x12s I agree. Planning to return the costco jack and get some other low profile jack.
I have a low profile jack I purchased from Harbor Freight that works well even on my H&R Springs lowered car which is lower than any Porsche factory suspension options. I have about 3.5 inches inches between the floor and my jack points, and the HF jack can still fit under with one rubber puck.

I have the Quickjack now since its the only hydraulic lift that can go that low, but I can check and see what the specific model floor jack model from HF I have later on today and post up the info for you. My HF jack goes down to about 2.5 inches when lowered if I recall correctly
 

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ICNU - I didn't find anything lower than 3" at Harbor Freight however Amazon has few choices for min clearance of 2.75". I think that might work but they are 2 tons. Do I need 3 ton jack?
 

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ICNU - I didn't find anything lower than 3" at Harbor Freight however Amazon has few choices for min clearance of 2.75". I think that might work but they are 2 tons. Do I need 3 ton jack?
Yeah, sorry I wasn't able to get out to my other home yesterday where the car and jack are to get the specific model number. 3" should be low enough for your car unless you are using a thick puck or block of wood with your jack. Mine sits at 3.5 and I'm a good bit lower than you are and I use a rubber puck that is about .5" thick. 2 ton is fine IMO. You are only lifting a portion of the car at a time, and the entire car is lot less than 2 tons
 

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Yeah, 2-ton would in theory be OK, but some people have complained about issues with some jacks, so best to read the reviews, especially the aluminum ones, some of which might have optimistic specs. I bought a 3-ton Black Widow HFJ3T floor jack from DiscountRamps.com a couple months ago for $80, free shipping. It is very large and robust - 30" L x 13.8" W x 7" tall, lift range 2.7" to 20", weight 96 lbs, but I don't see it on their website any more, nor on ebay where they were also selling it. Too bad - it was the best deal I could find at the time.
 

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danschy - I just looked up HFJ3T on google. Both walmart and Amazon listing as currently not available. Looks like sold out everywhere. Looks like it is what I need for a great price..
 

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Yeah, sorry I wasn't able to get out to my other home yesterday where the car and jack are to get the specific model number. 3" should be low enough for your car unless you are using a thick puck or block of wood with your jack. Mine sits at 3.5 and I'm a good bit lower than you are and I use a rubber puck that is about .5" thick. 2 ton is fine IMO. You are only lifting a portion of the car at a time, and the entire car is lot less than 2 tons
That's Ok. BTW 3" didn't work. I'm using the jackpad that comes with Jack point Jack stands. i was trying to remove the front wheels from the jack but no luck. That might give me 1/4" additional clearance. I could also skip using the rubber insulator that comes with the jack pad to get more clearance. But not sure if bare jackpad will damage the jack point or cause slipping.
 

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Yeah, sorry I wasn't able to get out to my other home yesterday where the car and jack are to get the specific model number. 3" should be low enough for your car unless you are using a thick puck or block of wood with your jack. Mine sits at 3.5 and I'm a good bit lower than you are and I use a rubber puck that is about .5" thick. 2 ton is fine IMO. You are only lifting a portion of the car at a time, and the entire car is lot less than 2 tons
That's Ok. BTW 3" didn't work. I'm using the jackpad that comes with Jack point Jack stands. i was trying to remove the front wheels from the jack but no luck. That might give me 1/4" additional clearance. I could also skip using the rubber insulator that comes with the jack pad to get more clearance. But not sure if bare jackpad will damage the jack point or cause slipping.
Thanks, I keep forgetting that you’re using the jack-point stands which changes everything.

That’s a tough one then as 2 3/4 to 3 inches is about the lower limits for most floor jacks that I’m aware of. Hopefully you can find something that will work out for you, or I guess worst case scenario is you still have to use some type of elevation blocks first
 

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Yes, most jacks seem to be starting from 2 3/4. Some jacks priced north of $600 have 1 7/8" to 2.5" min clearance. I did find a 3 ton jack with min clearance of 2 3/4" for $165 (free shipping) on Amazon. Brand is Apontus but google search shows it is a generic unit and various companies seem to re-brand it. Any case, either I go with that or cut the Rhino ramps to make a short ramp to elevate the driver side front wheel. Short ramps are available on Amazon but cutting the Rhino ramps would be cheaper. They should be easier to use than the 2x12 wood blocks...
 

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I have an odd assortment of jacks I've accumulated over the 50 years I've been working on cars. If I had your issue I'd reach for one of my old scissor jacks that probably collapses to no more than 3". You could put that under the front jack point and raise the side of the car enough to get your JP under the rear jack point, then off you go. Seems easier than a ramp and I think you could pick one up pretty cheap on amazon that would do the trick.
 

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,‘
I would not suggest any other points then Porsche themselves recommend and use, the 4 factory lift pads.

Because of that and for safety and ease of lifting I added a Dannmar SX-6 scissor lift to my garage. :)
I have a Bendpak scissor lift that sits between 2 2x12’s I drive on to and lift the whole car almost 4ft. If I had to do over and if they would work I would have gone with post jacks which allow access to the whole bottom of the car.
‘But the Bendpak works for 95% plus of what I do.
 

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,‘ I have a Bendpak scissor lift that sits between 2 2x12’s I drive on to and lift the whole car almost 4ft. If I had to do over and if they would work I would have gone with post jacks which allow access to the whole bottom of the car.
‘But the Bendpak works for 95% plus of what I do.
I considered the MaxJax post lift but could not see many times this would be a better bet for me, and there are a number of reasons I opted for the scissor lift over the post style(below), also most of the bottom of the mid-engine car has no parts to change, only the front and mid/rear do, I find that the scissor lift leaves those areas almost completely clear, but do agree the base of the scissor lift may be in the way in some cases.

So for my short comparison list of my reasons for going scissor style. ;)



post, must bolt down
scissor, movable, even outside

post, blocks side of vehicle
scissor, clear for wax or polishing

post, takes floor around car
scissor, clear all around car

post, door may hit post
scissor, door cannot hit post

post, appears less stable, balanced
scissor, better weight distribution, wider footprint

post, storage location?
scissor, hides under the car

post, drive right in
scissor, may require 2x12,12 under tires to provide clearance for low car
 

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As this thread has morphed into a discussion about lifting options, I'd like to offer my experience.

Firstly, I have no experience with scissor lifts or other portable hydraulic lifts. For many years I simply jacked my cars and supported on jackstands. 6 years ago a purchased a two post clear floor lift, like what you would see at a mechanic's shop. I am fortunate to lift on a property, and I have a few large sheds where the lift could be installed. Installation is reasonably simple. If you can DIY your car, you can install a lift.

I can't count the number of times I've said the words "god I love this lift" over the last 6 years. It's only a cheap ebay thing from china that cost AUD$2300. About US$1600. It works great, and I can't imagine ever going back.

So what makes it so good. Two things. Convenience and ease of access.

Years ago, it took some serious motivation on my part to lift the car to jack stands due to it being a PITA. And that was for other cars that have that have a dedicated lift point front and rear so you can easily get the jack stands under. The Porsche is a shocker in this department.

Now, I can drive my car into the lift bay, lift, look at what I want to, lower and then park in garage in less than 15 mins total. My wife jokes that I do it just for fun.

I can think of a few occasions where I didn't see car problems for years when doing things on jack stands due to poor access. When I got the lift, problems were so much easier to see.

To work on the car, then lower and test drive. Then lift again easily is great for checking your work.

It's hard to list all of the things that are so much easier when the car is at the correct height for the job, and is infinitely adjustable between different heights at the touch of a button. I can even lower to lower than with the wheels on (remove the wheels and lower so it doesn't get all the way down to hitting the brake rotors). Sounds crazy, but for some jobs, having the car really low is helpful. Try working on an SUV engine bay with it up on jack stands. You have to practically sit on the engine. My Boxster is like this. Access to the top of the engine is actually much simpler the lower it is. Moments later I can be standing under it if required.

To put it in perspective, a mate of mine drives his car 5 hours to my house when ever he needs to do anything other than simple tasks under the car rather than put it on jack stands. He knows the job will be done better, be less frustrating, and will probably save him time.

What are the issues?

Space. If you don't have the ceiling height to install this is clearly going to be a show stopper. I would consider the MAXJAX option only if I couldn't physically fit in a normal height lift. If you have a 10ft ceiling, you can probably fit in a full size lift.

Access to the side of the car isn't an issue. Opening the doors is an issue when the car is on the lift, especially if you want to get into the car. You just need to be a bit careful.

Parking. If you are going to have a car permanently parked in the lift bay, this may be an issue. If it's your daily driver that you are the only person getting into, it is easy to park closer to the passenger side to give you more room. If the family car is going to be parked there, the whining wife cons are probably not going to outweigh the DIY pros. Also, garage depth is a factor. If the car can be parked short of the lift so you can get in and out easier this is a good thing. I parked my car like this for a number of years prior to building another shed and moving the lift to a dedicated bay. It really was a small inconvenience considering the advantages.

I understand this will clearly not work for many. If you can make it work I would absolutely recommend it. It's by far the best investment I've made in my shed.
 

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Just one note on Quickjack. They warn that some clearance is needed as the hydraulic rams do not produce much power when the lift is flat/down. In particular, they warn do not allow the car to go all the way down when the wheels are off as the unit will not be able to lift the car back up (and to call them for advice if that happens).

Now that the public service announcement is over, I have the 7000SLX model and it barely fits with smaller block under my Boxster with base suspension (about 1 inch clearance) and it had no issues lifting the car from nearly flat.

V6 (back from Alaska)
 

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Just one note on Quickjack. They warn that some clearance is needed as the hydraulic rams do not produce much power when the lift is flat/down. In particular, they warn do not allow the car to go all the way down when the wheels are off as the unit will not be able to lift the car back up (and to call them for advice if that happens).

Now that the public service announcement is over, I have the 7000SLX model and it barely fits with smaller block under my Boxster with base suspension (about 1 inch clearance) and it had no issues lifting the car from nearly flat.

V6 (back from Alaska)
And to add from my side......I have the Quickjack 5000 model I purchased from Costco. I did also see the warning that the lift could have issues if starting from an all the way down position, however it has never been an issue with my car.

I’m running H&R sport springs, so lower than any available Porsche suspension option. I have about 3.5 inches between the floor and the jack points and the Quickjack fits using the small blocks with only a few mm to spare and it works perfectly.

All the way down is the only option with a low sports car and many others too based on all of the research and reviews I did during my research prior to purchase. I never found anyone that claimed to have any issue with this so I went for it
 

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My Cayman, with modified Bilstein PSS10s on it with adjustable spring perch with Swift Spring main and helper springs for a custom lift kit, is so low that I can't get my racing jack under the front lift points. I suspect that I am going to have to put the car on blocks to get the QJ under it. The Techart front spoiler sits about 2.5 inches from the ground. I stub my toes against it in the garage all the time!

V6
 

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Question on the Rhino Ramps?

I have a set of these in my cart on Amazon:

RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Set of 2 (12,000lb. GVW Capacity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117EETEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nAv4CbC2DXYB4

Regarding the approach angle and composition of the base, do these tend to skitter along the floor as you approach?

I’ll be doing this by myself. My garage is typical painted concrete. Not slick but not grippy, either. I’m just worried these will be impossible to back up into without fixing them somehow to the floor.

Thanks would appreciate any thoughts by you guys that own these.


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