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Question on the Rhino Ramps?

I have a set of these in my cart on Amazon:

RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Set of 2 (12,000lb. GVW Capacity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117EETEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nAv4CbC2DXYB4

Regarding the approach angle and composition of the base, do these tend to skitter along the floor as you approach?

I’ll be doing this by myself. My garage is typical painted concrete. Not slick but not grippy, either. I’m just worried these will be impossible to back up into without fixing them somehow to the floor.

Thanks would appreciate any thoughts by you guys that own these.


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First, make sure you get the wide ones (IIRC 12") which fit our rear tires nicely with a little left over.
AFA slippage, I haven't had a problem with a painted (but not epoxied) floor. If you are concerned, use an old towel under the the ramp so that when you back-up, your wheels are on the end of the towel before starting the incline. This should prevent movement. But it you are going too fast, you may end-up pushing the ramp instead of climbing it. Slow and steady works fine with me.
 

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Question on the Rhino Ramps?

I have a set of these in my cart on Amazon:

RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Set of 2 (12,000lb. GVW Capacity) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117EETEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nAv4CbC2DXYB4

Regarding the approach angle and composition of the base, do these tend to skitter along the floor as you approach?

I’ll be doing this by myself. My garage is typical painted concrete. Not slick but not grippy, either. I’m just worried these will be impossible to back up into without fixing them somehow to the floor.

Thanks would appreciate any thoughts by you guys that own these.
I have a set of these 11909 ramps. They are 12" wide and work good. One note about the approach angle is it is too steep for my car to go up front ways.

I had the same concern as you as far as the ramps moving so I glued a little strip of 100 grit sand paper in 8 places on the bottom of the ramps. I really like the towel idea and slow and steady. My garage floor is unfinished concrete and the ramps have never slid but I never tried them without the sand paper.
 

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Has any of you considered or tried raising the rear on the marked point in the attached photo?
I would have just said "no" but the forum requires that I type more words for a post reply... ;)
 

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I also lift at the sway bar attachment points. Here are photos from my 987 but similar set up for my 981. I fabricated a rectangular bar to fit on the floor jack and have replaced the two blocks of wood with a single piece running the length of the bar.
Bern
I could not find a rectangular steel tube so grabbed a 48" long 1.5" steel angle at Menards for $10, cut it in half and attached it to a 2x4. Used it today and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the great idea.
 

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I could not find a rectangular steel tube so grabbed a 48" long 1.5" steel angle at Menards for $10, cut it in half and attached it to a 2x4. Used it today and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the great idea.
I’m trying to picture this. Any chance you can post a picture?

I gotta say the thought of trying to drive the car backwards up a slope by myself gives me the willies. I think I’d feel better jacking up either the rear or either side with some kind of lift bar, hence the interest. Thanks.
 

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I’m trying to picture this. Any chance you can post a picture?

I gotta say the thought of trying to drive the car backwards up a slope by myself gives me the willies. I think I’d feel better jacking up either the rear or either side with some kind of lift bar, hence the interest. Thanks.
I changed the oil a couple weeks ago and I had limited work space for maneuvering, so I used a floor jack at the rear jack points and lifted each side (one at a time) enough to slide the rhino ramps in place.
 

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I’m trying to picture this. Any chance you can post a picture?

I gotta say the thought of trying to drive the car backwards up a slope by myself gives me the willies. I think I’d feel better jacking up either the rear or either side with some kind of lift bar, hence the interest. Thanks.
See post 36 for the rectangular beam approach. I could not find a cheap beam so built one. The 2x4 is 29" long. Two 24" pieces of 1.5" steel angle were cut from a 48" piece purchased at Menards for $10. The angle was attached on the two top edges of the 2x4 with 4 screws in each side. I added 1/8" filler boards (thickness of the angle) to the top so the pads on the ends had a flat surface to adhere to. I made a locator collar out of some PVC tubing to go around the floor jack pad - you can see it peeking out on the 2nd shot. The rectangular beam approach is much easier, but I did not have ready access to one, so just built it. It only save a little time as you could jack from the left sway bar support to put a jack stand under the left rear jack point, then jack from the right sway bar support for the rear right jack stand. I was just intrigued to build this one because I like building things.:) I jack the car up differently depending on what I'm doing. Usually I jack from the rear jack point and put jack stands under the front jack points and the rear sway bar supports, but sometimes supports under the sway bar get in the way, then I use the rear lift bar method and put jacks under the rear jack points.

lift bar on jack.jpg liftbar under car.jpg
 

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I’m trying to picture this. Any chance you can post a picture?

I gotta say the thought of trying to drive the car backwards up a slope by myself gives me the willies. I think I’d feel better jacking up either the rear or either side with some kind of lift bar, hence the interest. Thanks.
I had the same feeling the first time I backed the car on ramps. Turned out to be very anticlimactic. Reverse is geared pretty low at least on a MT so easy to creep up and feel the stop at the end of the ramp. Hardest part was lining up the ramps. Of course YMMV.
 

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I had the same feeling the first time I backed the car on ramps. Turned out to be very anticlimactic. Reverse is geared pretty low at least on a MT so easy to creep up and feel the stop at the end of the ramp. Hardest part was lining up the ramps. Of course YMMV.
I used ramps for awhile and every time I relied on my little one for lining the ramps and for stopping...
 

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Thanks for the thoughts on the bar, very interesting. I have a bad tendency to overthink this stuff, so bear with me (I'm an EE, not a ME :) )

So let's say I want to preserve the ability to remove the wheels, a ramp solution is not ldeal. But I like the "raise via a fabricated bar" idea, a lot. What if I fabricated a bar to raise the sides, using the factory jacking points?

Say I started with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Unpolished-1008-1010-Rectangular-Height-Thickness/dp/B003TPFLVG/ref=pd_cp_328_4?pd_rd_w=ksClS&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=XGY0HEVRY9EM4PJ4GKTY&pd_rd_r=6e85ebfd-7cc6-11e9-992c-918e04f53a31&pd_rd_wg=aaAzU&pd_rd_i=B003TPFLVG&psc=1&refRID=XGY0HEVRY9EM4PJ4GKTY

Say I cut it to length, and attached a pair of Porsche jacking pads on either end. Now I have a bar I can jack, from the middle, engage both slots, and raise the car sufficiently to insert a pair of jack stands.

Then repeat for the other side.

Am I missing anything?
 

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Thanks for the thoughts on the bar, very interesting. I have a bad tendency to overthink this stuff, so bear with me (I'm an EE, not a ME <img src="http://www.planet-9.com/images/smilies/smile.png" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> )

So let's say I want to preserve the ability to remove the wheels, a ramp solution is not ldeal. But I like the "raise via a fabricated bar" idea, a lot. What if I fabricated a bar to raise the sides, using the factory jacking points?

Say I started with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Unpolished-1008-1010-Rectangular-Height-Thickness/dp/B003TPFLVG/ref=pd_cp_328_4?pd_rd_w=ksClS&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=XGY0HEVRY9EM4PJ4GKTY&pd_rd_r=6e85ebfd-7cc6-11e9-992c-918e04f53a31&pd_rd_wg=aaAzU&pd_rd_i=B003TPFLVG&psc=1&refRID=XGY0HEVRY9EM4PJ4GKTY

Say I cut it to length, and attached a pair of Porsche jacking pads on either end. Now I have a bar I can jack, from the middle, engage both slots, and raise the car sufficiently to insert a pair of jack stands.

Then repeat for the other side.

Am I missing anything?
What you’re describing has existed for years and are called liftbars. They have been referenced in this thread a few times as an option

They aren’t that expensive, so unless you just want to make something yourself I don’t see why anyone would go that route versus just purchasing a pair.

Liftbars.com
 

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See "lift bars". They do exactly what you describe above (engage in Porsche lift points and allow you to raise the entire side of the car from one jack location). They are very well constructed and work slick. I can set one bar on top of my Harbor Freight jack and still slide the entire jack + lift bar under the side of a base 2009. There are two locations for jack stands built in. I have no affiliation but love these things. The jack is a Pittsburgh rapid pump 2 ton steel low profile jack and sits a little under 3 inches tall. The lift bars require another 2 1/2 inches (unless you engage them in the jack points first then slide the jack under the bar - then the bar takes up about 1 7/8).
 

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+1 on liftbars. I've had them for a couple years. Extremely well-made and stable

The current iteration will fit all P-cars 986-718, 996-992, 928 and 918.
 

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Thanks for the thoughts on the bar, very interesting. I have a bad tendency to overthink this stuff, so bear with me (I'm an EE, not a ME :) )

So let's say I want to preserve the ability to remove the wheels, a ramp solution is not ldeal. But I like the "raise via a fabricated bar" idea, a lot. What if I fabricated a bar to raise the sides, using the factory jacking points?

Say I started with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Unpolished-1008-1010-Rectangular-Height-Thickness/dp/B003TPFLVG/ref=pd_cp_328_4?pd_rd_w=ksClS&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=XGY0HEVRY9EM4PJ4GKTY&pd_rd_r=6e85ebfd-7cc6-11e9-992c-918e04f53a31&pd_rd_wg=aaAzU&pd_rd_i=B003TPFLVG&psc=1&refRID=XGY0HEVRY9EM4PJ4GKTY

Say I cut it to length, and attached a pair of Porsche jacking pads on either end. Now I have a bar I can jack, from the middle, engage both slots, and raise the car sufficiently to insert a pair of jack stands.

Then repeat for the other side.

Am I missing anything?
Yep, that beam you referenced from amazon would not hold the weight without significant deflection and stress beyond its limits. (I'm a EE also, but can run simple deflection/stress calcs.) I think liftbars are a pretty good solution if you want to just work on the one car. I work on multiple, thus have come up with more universal approaches.
 

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Yep, that beam you referenced from amazon would not hold the weight without significant deflection and stress beyond its limits. (I'm a EE also, but can run simple deflection/stress calcs.) I think liftbars are a pretty good solution if you want to just work on the one car. I work on multiple, thus have come up with more universal approaches.
Copy.

I found a deflection calculator (I guess that Materials Science class finally paid off :) ) and ran the numbers, for a 3' length of 2" square bar of 0.083 th with a fixed end load of 2,000 lbs and got a deflection of 0.0419". So yeah square is obviously the way to go, not rectangular. The calculator I found uses a modulus of elasticity of 29.5Mpsi for steel. I have no idea whether the bars on Amazon are close to the steel this calculator used.

Full disclosure and credit to the author of this website:

Deflection Calculator for Square Tubing

I did look at the liftbars.com web site and their standard product would be over $300. I'll keep kicking around ideas for a more inexpensive solution of the home brew variety, that could be used to span the lift points at the rear that have been pointed out up thread.

Thanks for all the ideas. Sorry I just get a kick out of stuff like this; making useful items at minimum cost. Feel free to ignore me. :)
 

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Copy.

I found a deflection calculator (I guess that Materials Science class finally paid off :) ) and ran the numbers, for a 3' length of 2" square bar of 0.083 th with a fixed end load of 2,000 lbs and got a deflection of 0.0419". So yeah square is obviously the way to go, not rectangular. The calculator I found uses a modulus of elasticity of 29.5Mpsi for steel. I have no idea whether the bars on Amazon are close to the steel this calculator used.

Full disclosure and credit to the author of this website:

Deflection Calculator for Square Tubing

I did look at the liftbars.com web site and their standard product would be over $300. I'll keep kicking around ideas for a more inexpensive solution of the home brew variety, that could be used to span the lift points at the rear that have been pointed out up thread.

Thanks for all the ideas. Sorry I just get a kick out of stuff like this; making useful items at minimum cost. Feel free to ignore me. :)
Ignore? No chance lol. You're the kind of thinker/innovator EVERYONE will want in their camp after the apocalypse.
 

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.... I'll keep kicking around ideas for a more inexpensive solution of the home brew variety, that could be used to span the lift points at the rear that have been pointed out up thread. :)
If you want to span the rear "lift points", i.e., the rear sway bar mounting points, then there are two solutions posted - see posts 36 and 68. Your amazon beam would be adequate for that. The liftbars that are for sale at liftbars.com go from front to rear jack points - they need to be around 5' and will need a much more substantial beam.
 

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Ok, just making sure I am tracking: here is a picture of the right rear of my ‘14CS.

Is the part circled in yellow one of the aforementioned ‘lift points’?




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Just to follow up where I am going in the above.

If these are ok to use, they measure about 16", side to side, more or less. My HF floor jack is about 3.5" off the floor, at min. I measure about 5" clear space to these lift points, so I only have about 1.5" clear above the jack pad to fit in a lifting bar.

I found an online supplier who can provide a 0.12 wall th steel tube, 1" x 2", for $14.22 (Part no. 10125 at https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/) plus shipping. Which leaves me 1/2" for a pad of some kind to attach on to the ends of the bar.

So, items I am planning on ordering, and technique I'm envisioning is:

1) Chock left wheels front and rear.

Chocks I plan to use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K1C1WC2/?coliid=ILQ9ATTX2D908&colid=2RCDNHLP988G4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

2) On right side, insert jack with Porsche specific interface pad into rear jack point. Raise car sufficient to insert Jack Stand into front right jack point.

Porsche Jack Pad:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZMMSR7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AOPASDE9PB806&psc=1

Pro-lift Stands, need two sets:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074R17GL4/ref=psdc_15708041_t1_B000CO86BY

Jack stand pads, need one set of 4:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?ie=UTF8&adId=A0575013295CA5Y7IW83P&qualifier=1558637166&id=5686384175612592&widgetName=sp_detail&url=/dp/B07Q2XFHQM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07Q2XFHQM&pd_rd_w=Lb27Y&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=hb171&pf_rd_r=T3SAT4C1Z3TV21W5C0RD&pd_rd_r=05cce14e-7d8b-11e9-9b09-4f16de09a724

3) Repeat for left side.

4) Using Steel bar on top of jack, with a pad, elevate rear sufficient to insert rear jack stands on both sides.

Jack pad:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H46MXO8/?coliid=IB721TTXLNIMZ&colid=2RCDNHLP988G4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Steel Bar:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/mild-steel-rectangle-tube-a513-hot-rolled/pid/10125

Thoughts?
 
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