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I've had those sort of connectors/quick connect attached for 12 years on another car, no problems. However it's a car with battery in trunk, not driven regularly so we just leave trunk open and plug in.

I got the optional cig lighter plug for the CTEK for the Cayman and much prefer that given the battery location on this car.
Question: Which Power Socket do you use? The one in the Footwell passenger side?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Same here. I have heard that some cars disconnect the cigarette lighter with a timer that starts after the key is removed (maybe 981 and newer?) I have a 987.2 and use the 12v connector in the center console and run the cord over the drivers seat and out the door.
yes, but it can apparently be changed to stay on.dealer can program it or if you have access to piwis 2
 

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I have a 987.2 and use the center console socket. I have rewired my footwell socket to be on/off with the key so I can run a bluetooth adapter and phone charger off of footwell socket without running my battery down.
 

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I use the center console plug, that was part of the "smokers package" that most of these came with solely for that purpose of having an easily accessible plug.
 

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We just had this discussion on the 718 Forum. Yes, pigtails go to Positive(+) terminal & GND terminal at wiper. Don't connect to battery Negative (-) due to current sensing electronics on that connection. I am going to use only the Normal program due to the following result from a PCA website search:

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I have been in touch with Porsche NA and many dealerships and cannot get a straight answer. The question is: What type battery maintainer should be used on a Banner battery used in a 2016 GT4? This battery is a VRLA battery (listed right on the battery). Online information indicates VRLA batteries (Type of AGM battery) has a typical absorptive range from 14.2 to 14.5 volts.
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I received a Porsche Bulletin No 1401 that stated " All 9x1 vehicles use AGM batteries. Any battery changer/power supply used must be set to this type battery. It is critical for AGM batteries that charging voltage not exceed 14.5 volts for more than very brief periods. I would interpret this as one should use a typical Lead Acid battery maintainer as it's absorptive phase is 14.5 volts.
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For me this says Porsche does not want their batteries to be charged beyond 14.5V.
I hope this helps.

FWIW & MOO
I just purchased a CTEK last week so I am getting up to speed on the topic. Interesting about the 14.5V threshold. For my 2016 CGTS, when i start the car the voltage per the digital instrument panel gauge quickly rises to a charging voltage of 14.7V. From memory it is at 14.7 while driving and I have even seen 15V. So when driving, depending on distance, it is being charged at >14.5V for extended periods of time. From that perspective the 14.5V threshold referenced above does not make sense since the alternator is charging at a higher voltage. Thoughts?

As a side note, I purchased the CTEK since I have experienced battery voltage dropping to a point (about 11.6V) when it would not start car. I was about to purchase a new battery but decided to give the "reconditioning" program on CTEK a try. I have not connected CTEK after the recondition program to see how battery is performing on its own. So far the voltage is definitely higher after sitting at work for the day and then overnight in the garage (seeing 12.0-12.2V prior to starting). I am going to keep extending sitting/uncharging durations to see how it goes.
 

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987.2 here. Car has worn plug-in connectors (wired straight to battery) for Ctek charger that’s mounted on the wall in one garage and an SAE connection so I can use any of my Yuasa wall wart moto chargers in my other garage. The stock battery lived this way for six years without a hitch. In fact I only replaced it out of caution and because I wanted to upgrade to Rennline’s mount and lighter Odyssey battery. It’s been fine for the few years since.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I just purchased a CTEK last week so I am getting up to speed on the topic. Interesting about the 14.5V threshold. For my 2016 CGTS, when i start the car the voltage per the digital instrument panel gauge quickly rises to a charging voltage of 14.7V. From memory it is at 14.7 while driving and I have even seen 15V. So when driving, depending on distance, it is being charged at >14.5V for extended periods of time. From that perspective the 14.5V threshold referenced above does not make sense since the alternator is charging at a higher voltage. Thoughts?
I've read that in the winter when its cold the car will bump the voltage...
 

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987.2 here. Car has worn plug-in connectors (wired straight to battery) for Ctek charger that’s mounted on the wall in one garage and an SAE connection so I can use any of my Yuasa wall wart moto chargers in my other garage. The stock battery lived this way for six years without a hitch. In fact I only replaced it out of caution and because I wanted to upgrade to Rennline’s mount and lighter Odyssey battery. It’s been fine for the few years since.
What I got from the discussion elsewhere is that the current counter electronics in the negative terminal exist so that the car can monitor whether the battery and charging circuitry is robust enough at that time to allow Auto Start/Stop to function. If your car does not have that function, you probably don't need to worry about the electronics in the negative terminal. 718s do have this, and therefore do have electronics in the terminal.
With that said, I really wish my car wasn't already start away for the winter as I would love to look at the charging voltage that is being displayed. I'll look next year when she comes out of storage.
MOO & FWIW
 

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I’d hate to lead someone in the wrong direction, so thanks for clarifying that, MLCayman.(y)
 

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Silly question. I got a Ctek time to go CT5 charger the other day and wanted to hook it up to the car. It doesn't come with a cig lighter only the terminal connections.

My question would it be ok and safe to leave these terminals plugged into it? It comes with a quick disconnect from the charger. This would make it infinitely easier and more convienant that I can just unplug the quick disconnect vs having to take everything off the car. The alligator clips are bulk and I cant keep the cover on the frunk on it or close the frunk properly.

View attachment 272181

View attachment 272182

(after taking a pic I realized youre suppose to use the negative on the wiper stalk)

Last question is, the oem battery is AGM, but im unsure what mode I should use. Standard or AGM for charging

Normal battery program14.4V/4.3A. Use for WET, EFB, Ca/Ca, MF, GEL batteries and many AGM batteries

.AGM battery program 14.7V/4.3A. Use for AGM batteries
View attachment 272183

Do our cars have the higher 14.7 v? or Should I use the normal mode which says compatible with "many agm batteries"
View attachment 272184
For $14 this is a must have. I just plug mine into the outleg on the left side of the passenger foot area. https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-263-...826833770401&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1
 

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FWIW, I use the cig lighter in the console compartment and the AGM setting on my CTEK. Wire snakes out the lower door seal. I’m unaware of any problems so far. 7 years on original battery, but since COVID, I keep the car on the tender unless I’m going out the next day. Could be something fails tomorrow, though.
 

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Yes, no issues running the cord out the bottom of the door. Just keep an eye out for the safety latch that runs along the bottom of the door. You don't want to feed the cord out anywhere near that.

I'm thinking maybe I should take mine off of AGM mode.
I just use a Battery Tender Junior. I put it between the windshield and the frunk. Then close the hood and leave it until ready to drive. Never a problem. I have a Porsche battery maintainer with the cigarette plug in. Never used it. Anybody want to buy it? I will sell it. If your battery is 5 years old, I would replace it. That’s just my way of thinking though.
 

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Same here... I keep them connected and have had no issues.... I have the quick connect sticking out slightly by the windshield and it is exposed to rain, car washes, etc.
I think I going to get one of these and leave it slightly by the windshield also. What I like about this one is it has ring connectors, it is long, it has a good dust cover and has an SAE quick disconnect.

 

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I used to leave the connector attached to the battery - no real issues, just a PITA to connect and disconnect each time. Later I bought a generic lighter adapter and wired it onto the CTEK. It's much more convenient and I highly recommend it.
 

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I use pigtails so I can connect an extension to the pigtail on one end and the other goes directly to the CTEK. Disconnect/connect is easy that way. Many use the cigarette lighter method also.
From my CTEK manual:
View attachment 272185
My CTEK has Normal & "Cold Weather" (ie: Polar) progrm. I'm guessing that your AGM program works like my polar. Whatever, the AGM/Polar setting is for "Power" AGM batteries like storage batteries for solar arrays, etc. I'm keeping mine in Normal mode for this reason.

Hope this helps. View attachment 272185
Dont always rely on what Porsche advise. They will always play it safe.
My 981 has been know (Often) to charge up to 14.9 Volts in normal driving.

I was given a Porsche branded Ctek charger as a service gift some years ago. They give a gift every service.

Branded by Porsche and it charges from low battery to full and it takes 3 days to do that. So very current limiting through the cig lighter type connection in the centre console.

I don't know if there is anything in that circuit to battery that limits current.

Volts don't do damage. Current does.

Cheers


CXheers
 

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Dont always rely on what Porsche advise. They will always play it safe.
My 981 has been know (Often) to charge up to 14.9 Volts in normal driving.

I was given a Porsche branded Ctek charger as a service gift some years ago. They give a gift every service.

Branded by Porsche and it charges from low battery to full and it takes 3 days to do that. So very current limiting through the cig lighter type connection in the centre console.

I don't know if there is anything in that circuit to battery that limits current.

Volts don't do damage. Current does.

Cheers


CXheers
Here's what I understand:
Modern cars have Auto start-stop. In order for the cars electronics to know if there is sufficient battery capacity to restart the car after it's turned it off, it needs to know the state of the battery. It determines the state using a coulomb counter which is located in the negative battery cable. If you connect your battery tender to the negative post, you are bypassing this circuitry. Additionally, it seems that some AGM batteries use a higher charging voltage than others. Storage batteries seem to like a higher voltage. Auto batteries seem to like a slightly lower voltage. For that reason, I am running my tender on low voltage normal mode connected to the negative remote connection.
None of this came from Porsche except for the description of the coulomb counter courtesy of a forum member elsewhere.

MOO & FWIW
 

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Here's what I understand:
Modern cars have Auto start-stop. In order for the cars electronics to know if there is sufficient battery capacity to restart the car after it's turned it off, it needs to know the state of the battery. It determines the state using a coulomb counter which is located in the negative battery cable. If you connect your battery tender to the negative post, you are bypassing this circuitry. Additionally, it seems that some AGM batteries use a higher charging voltage than others. Storage batteries seem to like a higher voltage. Auto batteries seem to like a slightly lower voltage. For that reason, I am running my tender on low voltage normal mode connected to the negative remote connection.
None of this came from Porsche except for the description of the coulomb counter courtesy of a forum member elsewhere.

MOO & FWIW
I’m not saying you’re wrong about anything you’ve written here. What I don’t understand about this entire discussion is this: Your alternator under certain conditions bumps the voltage up to 14.9 or 15v. I’ve seen this on my CGTS. The electronics in the car are all 12V. The only reason to bump up the voltage (that I am aware of) is to create a faster charge on the AGM battery.

Whether this voltage is coming from the alternator or a charger makes no difference. It ends up on the negative terminal at the battery either way (because that is the whole point). There may very well be a second or third negative lead from the battery which limits voltage or current for whatever purpose on other circuits, but that shouldn’t matter one bit to how the battery is charged.

I’m probably missing something.
 
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