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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys i have a custom made fiberglass cayman subwoofer enclosure that i no longer need. Its never been used, only to test. It includes the 8inch CDT EF8 Subwoofer. It cost me $500 plus shipping by Car Concept. The Subwoofer was an additional $100. Its very well made. I no longer need it because i modified my factory sub and added to free air 6.5s subs into my lower doors and there is now plenty of bass. Sounds perfect. I think you guys may like this a lot. Here is the link on ebay. Custom Porsche Cayman 8" Fiberglass Subwoofer Enclosure : eBay Motors (item 320513445231 end time Apr-16-10 17:48:14 PDT)
 

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Hi Steve-
I wanted to thank you for the sub- I just temporarily hooked it up on Tuesday, and it is already helping, but I have also ordered an Alpine PDX-5 amp. It really needs the amp- I didn't realize the Pioneer AVIC BT920 only allows for front and rear speakers OR front speakers and a sub. I might bug you for more info on the CDT's depending on how the stock speakers sound with the new amp.

I think I read you were concerned about putting holes in your gas tank- Do you have any info you could impart on installing the new amp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Bud,

Yeah i gotta warn you. Please do not drill, or screw anything into the front trunk wall facing the cabin of the car. The gas tank is lying behind that wall. Fortunately i didnt drill into it but i came within 1/4 inch. Whew! In Fact, dont drill anywhere on top the cd holder shelf either because it sits right above the gas tank. I mounted my amp to the factory amp bracket. I would love to see what you have done with your install when you are finished. PDX5 is a sick amp. I first tried the JL G6600 but it was defective and noisy and i returned it to JL. The alpine is a bulletproof and puts out some decent wattage for a amp slightly bigger than the factory bose amp (very small). I now have my avic x910bt, alpine pdx5, cdt 4" pro components, and newly installed Morel ADMW 9" subs in custom baffles into the doors. Dude, its sick..... I can hit some deep basss and loud. I have my 4" Cdts actively crossed at 200hz, 1" tweets crossed at 4khz, and the Morel subs play lows into the 20 hz range. I still have the factory sub playing from 50z and down (powered by the 5th channel and it needs to be on reverse phase to play right - trust me). My system with simple EQing is blows away most systems ive had in previous cars. Also, dynamat the doors if you can, but the doors are very well sealed as is. I wish i would have documented all my stereo installs but ive been thru so many sets..... It would have taken forever. Next is aesthetics....I hope you enjoy the sub enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Also, let me know if you think about changing your door subs because i have earthquakes SWS 6.5s 4ohm slim sets and Kicker CVT 6.5s 2ohm. I can sell for pretty much shipping cost and maybe 50 bucks. The earthquakes are real subs, the Fs is 29hz if i remember and from listening plays low like a 8" sub but must be crossed low, no higher than 200hz. The Kickers sound sweet up to 300hz - even for the crappy kicker brand... and it pounds decent but drops off really fast after 50hz. But you would be fine with either with that 8" sub enclosure which can handle 100hz and down easy. Like i said before, look at trying other subs that fit that enclosure...but who know its all about personal preference....If you have any interest in any of the 6.5s let me know, you will also need to cut a baffle for them to mount in the factory positions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For my door I just ordered mdf speaker rings for 8" on bay and I contacted the seller to give custom dimensions for my morel subs. The subs only have about 2 1/2" depth which is perfect. Then I coated the inner door with a sound coat spray and dynamite Xorb pad. Dynamated the entire door and mounted the mdf ring over the factory hole with a few screws. Then placed the subs in. Morel adwm9 is slightly bigger than a 8". These subs are the bomb. The subs reAlly shake the car doors and arm rest when they hit but its well dampened so ther is no rattling noise. As far as the factory Bose footwell sub I ripped out the built in amp and just wired it in reverse phase to my alpine amp 5th channel. It cannot take much power, about 200 clean watts max before it starts to sound crappy and crossing it below 80hz helps clean up the sound. The factory sub doesn't need to stuff but needs clean power and a low crossover point. If you see the built-in amp you will see why it sounds so bad. Its a piece of junk.
 
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