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This just happened to me. I charge the battery monthly for the past 2 years without any issues, and I just fully charged it 2 weeks ago. Came back from a conference this past weekend, and the battery is completely dead. My key is stuck inside the car today when I went to try to start the car up. I don't remember if I had a second key. Did we get 2 keys with the car or just 1?

I also tried hooking the battery charger up to the emergency fuse unlock, but that didn't work. I'm going to try a battery from a running car tomorrow. Thanks.
 

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New owners get two keys. You should have another one unless you bought used and were not provided with the other key.

Barry

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think that i may just leave my hood popped in the garage when i go away and leave it on trickle. any reason not?
Many do. Or, they get a cigarette lighter adapter for their trickle charger & crack the window, which I've done for years. All you have to do is have your battery go dead ONCE in your Cayman... Ask me how I know.

:wall:

John
 

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i have had my 2007 cayman s about 2 months. first thing i did was hardwire in my valentine 1 radar detector. today i changed all the squealing ceramic track pads that came with the car.
this dead battery issue is of concern. it is not a matter of "if?" it will affect me, but rather "when?". batteries die---thats it.
i am a hot rod guy....built and own a 40 chevy, 52 plymouth suburban and a 33 american austin. when we shave the doors (no outside hardware) there is always a concern of batteries dying and an inability to get in the car. it is very common to put external battery posts to connect to.
so why cant one take a heavy lead from the positive pole of the battery and put a post under the car or in the wheel well? it seems so simple. all you would have to do is put a +ve jumper cable to that post and a -ve to the chassis.
has this been done or written about? does it make sense? i think it would be relatively easy to do.
 

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i have had my 2007 cayman s about 2 months. first thing i did was hardwire in my valentine 1 radar detector. today i changed all the squealing ceramic track pads that came with the car.
this dead battery issue is of concern. it is not a matter of "if?" it will affect me, but rather "when?". batteries die---thats it.
i am a hot rod guy....built and own a 40 chevy, 52 plymouth suburban and a 33 american austin. when we shave the doors (no outside hardware) there is always a concern of batteries dying and an inability to get in the car. it is very common to put external battery posts to connect to.
so why cant one take a heavy lead from the positive pole of the battery and put a post under the car or in the wheel well? it seems so simple. all you would have to do is put a +ve jumper cable to that post and a -ve to the chassis.
has this been done or written about? does it make sense? i think it would be relatively easy to do.
Why go through that? Just make sure your key works. Use it once in a while with some graphite lube. If the battery dies you have two choices - jump at the fusebox or get a trickle charger with a cig lighter plug. Either should get you into the frunk.
 

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My battery was completely disconnected (and fully charged) when I inadvertantly closed the bonnet/hood. FWIW, what ultimately freed my hood after everything listed here failed, (so I thought) that I took another careful look at the pull out connection for jump powering the latch with a bright LED flashlight. Guess what I found? There are no connections on the top and bottom of the pull out where I had tried in my numerous frustrating attempts over a week. So this is a side mount only connection and will not work top/bottom connection. No wonder my jumper cable attempts had failed. With the side mount, the second I attached the negative to the metal door latch, it kicked a decent spark. I knew it was powering something. A short push of the key fob hood release gave me the immense satisfaction of hearing the front hood click open.

Now for bad news, I ripped out a connection seen below (not ripped out seen here). In a failed attempt to pull the cable connection in the front wheel wheel, I accidentally yanked the yellow electrical wire seen in this photo, the left side pulled clear of its harness plug? What is it? What does it power? Where is it connected?
 

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Now for bad news, I ripped out a connection seen below (not ripped out seen here). In a failed attempt to pull the cable connection in the front wheel wheel, I accidentally yanked the yellow electrical wire seen in this photo, the left side pulled clear of its harness plug? What is it? What does it power? Where is it connected?
That's not "factory" wiring. Do you have an aftermarket headunit with GPS? HID retro-fit? Or some other non-OEM equipment? If not, this may be a remnant of some aftermarket equipment that was removed prior to resale. It might not of been attached to anything before you yanked on it. Red, orange, or yellow usually is a +12v power feed to something. But someone might have used whatever they had.
 

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I'm more interested in the battery failure. What king of "trickle charger" was used and was it used religiously? How long was the car allowed to sit b4 using the battery tender? What kind of battery was it and was the age?

Over the years of my garage queen Porsche batteries died. But none since I got my CTEK 4300. I use it religiously anytime my car will sit for more than 4 days. Sulfation is what kills lead acid batteries. It is a cumulative buildup. And they get Sulfation buildup sitting too long without a proper battery tender to many times, and from poor quality trickle chargers.
 

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That's not "factory" wiring. Do you have an aftermarket headunit with GPS? HID retro-fit? Or some other non-OEM equipment? If not, this may be a remnant of some aftermarket equipment that was removed prior to resale. It might not of been attached to anything before you yanked on it. Red, orange, or yellow usually is a +12v power feed to something. But someone might have used whatever they had.
RSchwerer, I've seen that wire in every photo posted by others of the wheel well area. For example, the photo you see in my post is "borrowed" in the interest of saving time from Planet 9 member "cheer10" 's post # 5 on page one of this thread. The yellow wire is seen clearly in cheer10's post in the second photo and is slightly visible in the first. I have the exact same wire. His photo is dated October 2009. My car is a 2011 Spyder. Same wire, same location, same color. No electrical mods of any kind on this 2 owner car, the seller a known buddy of mine.
 

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RSchwerer, I've seen that wire in every photo posted by others of the wheel well area. For example, the photo you see in my post is "borrowed" in the interest of saving time from Planet 9 member "cheer10" 's post # 5 on page one of this thread. The yellow wire is seen clearly in cheer10's post in the second photo and is slightly visible in the first. I have the exact same wire. His photo is dated October 2009. My car is a 2011 Spyder. Same wire, same location, same color. No electrical mods of any kind on this 2 owner car, the seller a known buddy of mine.
I just find it inconceivable that they would run a single heavy-gauge wire (implying support for high amperage) with no chafe protection; let alone leave it unsecured and possibly rubbing on that lateral support. Anyhow, I was in that vicinity on my 2010 last week and I didn't notice any loose wire. I remember those black hydraulic lines. Maybe I didn't look that far forward. I was working on the steering.

The color on my monitor is off a little. Is that wire orange or yellow? It appears to be a solid color. Most of the solid yellow wires are Canbus data lines. If I understand what you said, it is now disconnected. There's not much that far forward. Fans, lights (fogs are in the vicinity), horn, hood release. Most are easy to test. Fan wires are in pairs (+ and -) so not likely. I have a 987-1 wiring diagram PDF - but there may be some differences w/gen2.
 

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My battery was completely disconnected (and fully charged) when I inadvertantly closed the bonnet/hood. FWIW, what ultimately freed my hood after everything listed here failed, (so I thought) that I took another careful look at the pull out connection for jump powering the latch with a bright LED flashlight. Guess what I found? There are no connections on the top and bottom of the pull out where I had tried in my numerous frustrating attempts over a week. So this is a side mount only connection and will not work top/bottom connection. No wonder my jumper cable attempts had failed. With the side mount, the second I attached the negative to the metal door latch, it kicked a decent spark. I knew it was powering something. A short push of the key fob hood release gave me the immense satisfaction of hearing the front hood click open.

Now for bad news, I ripped out a connection seen below (not ripped out seen here). In a failed attempt to pull the cable connection in the front wheel wheel, I accidentally yanked the yellow electrical wire seen in this photo, the left side pulled clear of its harness plug? What is it? What does it power? Where is it connected?
Great to know! Thanks for posting about the pull-out contact.


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I just find it inconceivable that they would run a single heavy-gauge wire (implying support for high amperage) with no chafe protection; let alone leave it unsecured and possibly rubbing on that lateral support. Anyhow, I was in that vicinity on my 2010 last week and I didn't notice any loose wire. I remember those black hydraulic lines. Maybe I didn't look that far forward. I was working on the steering.

The color on my monitor is off a little. Is that wire orange or yellow? It appears to be a solid color. Most of the solid yellow wires are Canbus data lines. If I understand what you said, it is now disconnected. There's not much that far forward. Fans, lights (fogs are in the vicinity), horn, hood release. Most are easy to test. Fan wires are in pairs (+ and -) so not likely. I have a 987-1 wiring diagram PDF - but there may be some differences w/gen2.
Sorry about the delay. Yellow. The wire is to the SRS system and is oem wiring. The first time I started the car, the Airbag warning light came on and stayed on. I've got to locate the wiring harness / plug that I yanked this out of. The wire originates in a protected area behind the liner of fender well.
 

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I just find it inconceivable that they would run a single heavy-gauge wire (implying support for high amperage) with no chafe protection; let alone leave it unsecured and possibly rubbing on that lateral support. Anyhow, I was in that vicinity on my 2010 last week and I didn't notice any loose wire. I remember those black hydraulic lines. Maybe I didn't look that far forward. I was working on the steering.

The color on my monitor is off a little. Is that wire orange or yellow? It appears to be a solid color. Most of the solid yellow wires are Canbus data lines. If I understand what you said, it is now disconnected. There's not much that far forward. Fans, lights (fogs are in the vicinity), horn, hood release. Most are easy to test. Fan wires are in pairs (+ and -) so not likely. I have a 987-1 wiring diagram PDF - but there may be some differences w/gen2.
Sorry about the delay. Yellow. And it is normal gauge two wire in protected yellow wrap, (not single heavy gauge). The wire is to the SRS system and is oem wiring. The first time I started the car, the Airbag warning light came on and stayed on. I've got to locate the wiring harness / plug that I yanked this out of. The wire originates in a protected area behind the liner of fender well.
 

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I have a friends 2006 Cayman S up on the lift, dead battery, key in the ignition and I cannot open the front trunk.

Let me first say, I have read a bunch of posts on this subject. I have read the manual. I have read the 2008 amendment about removing the key but nothing works at this point.

What I have tried:

1. Trickle l
I have a friends 2006 Cayman S up on the lift, dead battery, key in the ignition and I cannot open the front trunk.

Let me first say, I have read a bunch of posts on this subject. I have read the manual. I have read the 2008 amendment about removing the key but nothing works at this point.

What I have tried:

1. Trickle charging from the cigarette lighter with a battery maintainer.
2. Using a donor battery on the "pull out lead" on the interior fuse panel.
3. Using a "live" battery in a running vehicle in the same manner.
4. Using the 2008 "removing stuck key" amendment.

Nothing has allowed me to unlock the trunk. When I do have a power source hooked up to the fuse box, if I turn the key, I can hear what sounds like one relay clicking in the front of the car but no other lights or anything. The interior trunk switch does not work and pushing the button on the key lights up the key but does nothing to the car.

Since I thought the key may be disabled by being in the ignition, I have tried to remove it. But again, to no avail. I have removed the little "door" but when I turn the key all the way counter-clockwise i cannot insert either end of the rod any farther into the hole. If I look into the hole with a flashlight while turning I see no difference in the depth of the hole at any point in its rotation.

At this point I am fearing that there is a bad cell in the battery making it toast that has completely disabled the system but I am still at a loss as how to get to battery if this is the case.

In one of the other posts it was mentioned that there may actually be a mechanical release under the left fender. Can anyone confirm this?

Also can anyone that has actually removed the key with the supplied piano wire tool tell me if I'm doing something wrong? This car is a 2006 and the amendment didn't come out till 2008 I believe, I wonder if it even works with this car.

Any Suggestion?

Thanks.
Wow. This post is over a decade old but it was a lifesaver today. I had the exact same issue with my ‘07 987S and tried using Google and YouTube which was no real help. Then it dawned on me, “What was the name of that Cayman forum I used to frequent years ago?” FortunateLt my login still worked after all these years and a simple search saved me so much time, money and stress. Thank you Planet-9!
 

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Best stay in touch with your pep's
This is where Porsche info lives
 
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