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Hi All,

I just finished fitting the LN Engineering 2QT Deep Sump Oil Pan Kit inc. Pickup-Tube Extension, Windage Tray & X51 Baffle

Shopper No Route page LN Engineering

My question is in the attached pic, the top one is the oil return tube i removed from my original engine, and the bottom one (the one in my hand) is the 997 oil return tube included in the LN kit, my question is, what is the difference? was it even worth swapping out? shouldn't the new oil return tube be lower than the one i've taken out to have the same affect as the spacer for the oil pick up which also makes it lower? Im confused.

 

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Great question, mate. It turned out I installed the exact same kit this evening as well. I ran into a couple of things that I'd feel better about with some misery-loves-company comments.

One, it didn't come with any directions. The link you posted above was dead, but here's the one I found and used, such that it is:

Bilt Racing 2QT Deep Sump Oil Pan Kit inc. Pickup-Tube Extension, Windage Tray & X51 Baffle LN Engineering

Those were the only directions of any type I was able to find. There are some YouTube videos on the .5qt kit, but it's a different kit, not the aluminum baffle setup.

The first thing I noticed during the install was that the "997 oil return tubes" were identical, part number and all, to what was already on this car. (2008 Cayman S) I went ahead and replaced them, because I figured why not... What you show in your pictures is very different, however. What I now have an extra set of is what is at the bottom of your picture.

Second, the sketchy online directions and photos say that the order of installation, from top to bottom, is RTV sealant, flat metal tray, re-usable gasket, spacer, then RTV sealant, then stock pan. I looked at that every way I could and couldn't make that work. The cage with flaps and three bolts has to go on top of the flat tray, which makes the re-usable gasket useless unless you can hire a mouse to climb inside the pan and unbolt the cage/flaps before you drop the pan the next time. :)

Hopefully this isn't too confusing, but starting from the bottom to the top, what I ended up installing was this: stock pan, RTV sealant, then spacer (with the 3 bolt spacers for the cage/flaps in that layer as well), RTV sealant, then flat tray, then cage with flaps, (with the three mounting bolts going down through the cage, flat tray, spacers and into the threads in the bottom of the pan). Then the re-usable gasket on top of that whole sandwich/assembly, so the bolts go up through all of that into the block. My reasoning there is that if I ever need to pull it off again, the only way the gasket could be of use would be this way. Pan bolts come off, then the whole assembly comes down as one piece, like it went on.

On the pickup spacer, I'm assuming that the new o-ring goes up against the block and the stock pickup o-ring goes against the bottom of the spacer. Also, they included some blue Loctite with the kit, but no instructions on where to put it. I put it on the oil pickup bolts. I figure those are the ones I'd least like to back out!

One other random thing I ran into. The spacer did not fit without my removing the engine safety cable bracket. I had to grind that bracket down to clear the bolt boss in the middle and then re-install.

This is a nicely engineered and built kit, but it could really use some better, up to date installation instructions. For the price, especially. It's not like the oiling of the entire engine depends on it or anything....!!

If anybody wants to chime in and let me know before I restart this engine and burn it up, please do so!!
 

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Resurrecting this thread since I have my kit downstairs waiting for me to get my nerve up for install. RickyG that is the 996 part and supposed to give better deaeration. The other is to 997 part and supposed to give faster return. I emailed LN asking for their logic but no response. DrHoon I hope your approach worked well using the gasket above the windage tray. With the baffle bolted in place there would be no way to remove the gasket and the assembly would have to be sealed to the engine! I see more searching in my future before I start this project.
 
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