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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys/gals,

Thanks for reading. I am posting in the main 981 forum as it doesn't seem like there is much traffic, relatively, in the DIY forum. Thanks for reading!

Title says almost says it all! I have some randomish but easy questions RE doing a brake rotor replacement. I am planning on using this video as a guide, even though it is centered around pads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVPYw80H2FM

- I'm assuming I will need to spread the calipers a bit, so I'll likely need to use the turkey baster method and/or put some rags around the fluid resoivoir as he does at around 1:37
- I assume I'll need to remove the caliper bolts and the 10MM bracket bolt (so total of 3) in order to access the rotor?
- I know the caliper bolts get torqued to 63/65 ft lbs, what does the 10 MM bracket bolt get torqued to? (the one he points to at 5:44)
- Similar q, what do the rotor screws get torqued to?

Anything else I need to know?

Thank you again for reading!
 

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As long as you pump the brake pedal between doing each corner the reservoir should be okay. There are 2 small screws that hold the rotor in place, for a total of 5. The 10mm is a pain, easy to snap the head off if you over tighten. I tighten the rotor screws hand tight, trusting the wheel to keep them in. You might need an impact driver to loosen them.

Be careful not to bend the hard line to the calliper. He made threading the big bolts look easy, but it can be finicky. I'm planning to change to the stud system he mentioned.

Take your time and be thorough.


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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
As long as you pump the brake pedal between doing each corner the reservoir should be okay. There are 2 small screws that hold the rotor in place, for a total of 5. The 10mm is a pain, easy to snap the head off if you over tighten. I tighten the rotor screws hand tight, trusting the wheel to keep them in. You might need an impact driver to loosen them.

Be careful not to bend the hard line to the calliper. He made threading the big bolts look easy, but it can be finicky. I'm planning to change to the stud system he mentioned.

Take your time and be thorough.


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Thanks for the tips! I actually have the stud installed, but I had a shop do it for me. Does that change any of the process much? Based on what I could glean from various threads (some 991 based), it seems like the stud basically inserts into the upright and then threads into a bolt on the other side - does that sound right?

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Should simplify things considerably. Getting those 'cheesehead' bolts in drove me crazy. You should be able to slide the calliper over the studs and easily thread the bolts where you can see them.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Should simplify things considerably. Getting those 'cheesehead' bolts in drove me crazy. You should be able to slide the calliper over the studs and easily thread the bolts where you can see them.


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Cool. I guess the part I am not clear about is just what I need to do to remove the caliper now that I have the stud kit on there. Once I loosen the 10MM bracket, do I just losen the nuts on each of the (two) caliper studs?
 

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yea you remove the two bolts completely and wiggle the caliper and pads off the rotor.
Try pulling the pads back a little first to make the unit easier to remove.
Also support the caliper unit ( stand underneath or hang from a hook) so the brake lines are not supprting the weight of the unit as you work on it.
Don't want to bend anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yea you remove the two bolts completely and wiggle the caliper and pads off the rotor.
Try pulling the pads back a little first to make the unit easier to remove.
Also support the caliper unit ( stand underneath or hang from a hook) so the brake lines are not supprting the weight of the unit as you work on it.
Don't want to bend anything.
Makes sense! To confirm, these are the nuts that get torqued to 54 ft lbs per directions below, correct? (Use and maintenance, #1) http://www.tarett.com/images/BCS INSTALLATION - MAY 2016.pdf

Thank you!!!

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey all, I think everything worked out! I need to go for a longer drive tomorrow AM to be 100% confident but no real signs for me to be concerned. It took a while longer on the first rotor, mostly because I got stuck on the rotor retainer screws - did not have an impact driver. A quick trip to advance Auto parts solved that. The next snag was I was simply missing an adapter to go from my torque wrench to my 12mm socket. Another quick trip. Short of that, things went easy. Second wheel prob took 30m - pretty easy! No real other unexpected issues other than if the abs sensor doesn't immediately click back in you need to push down the tab to make it do so. Thanks all for your help, could not have done it without your help.

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