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One FYI for anyone just getting one.....There seems to be some quality control issues with the factory Schrader valve on the air cylinders that help to lower the jack once it no longer has any weight from the car on it. I found multiple complaints of this by others and I also had this issue. You may get crazy random pressure readings while trying to fill them, or the air will leak down from the cylinder and its not coming from a leak at the valve threads.

Don't waste your time contacting QJ for replacements as the ones they send you will likely be just as bad. Just get yourself a couple 1/8 Schrader valves on your own and the problem will be solved: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081TJO72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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One quick tip for those who have or are getting a set of QJ's.

Get a 5 gallon bucket. It will fit under the oil pan just fine. Loosen the drain bolt, slide the bucket under and then reach up and remove the drain bolt.

All the oil will go into the bucket, no splash, spills, or mess. When done, repeat the process for the oil filter.

When done, toss the lid on it and keep for the next oil change or take to a FLAPS for recycling.

Makes life soooooo much easier. :)
 

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Mine showed up in two shipments over the past couple days (3 total boxes - motor, L, R). Finally got them assembled and function checked today and I'm smiling ear to ear. So far so good. High quality parts, no leaks and everything is working as advertised. As soon as my header gasket/bolt set arrives, the car is going in the air. Can't wait!

Thanks to OC_Cayman for the heads up!
 

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One FYI for anyone just getting one.....There seems to be some quality control issues with the factory Schrader valve on the air cylinders that help to lower the jack once it no longer has any weight from the car on it. I found multiple complaints of this by others and I also had this issue. You may get crazy random pressure readings while trying to fill them, or the air will leak down from the cylinder and its not coming from a leak at the valve threads.

Don't waste your time contacting QJ for replacements as the ones they send you will likely be just as bad. Just get yourself a couple 1/8 Schrader valves on your own and the problem will be solved: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081TJO72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good tip!

I had the same problem last November when I bought a 7000SLX. The factory valves did not take air nor hold long. I took a couple of valves out of some spare bicycle tubes and all was well.

V6
 

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Mine showed up in two shipments over the past couple days (3 total boxes - motor, L, R). Finally got them assembled and function checked today and I'm smiling ear to ear. So far so good. High quality parts, no leaks and everything is working as advertised. As soon as my header gasket/bolt set arrives, the car is going in the air. Can't wait!

Thanks to OC_Cayman for the heads up!
All my gear has arrived, but it will have to wait for over a week before I’ll have the time to assemble and test it. Grrrrrr... ;)
 

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V6 - Does the 7000SLX work for the Cayman? I've got a Tundra that comes in at about 5400lb but I don't want to overload and would like to use it on my Cayman.
Thanks
 

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V6 - Does the 7000SLX work for the Cayman? I've got a Tundra that comes in at about 5400lb but I don't want to overload and would like to use it on my Cayman.
Thanks
I purchased the 7000, and did all the required measurements first and it should be okay. I haven’t tried it yet though so hopefully V6 chimes in.
 

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Like many on this list, I've been tempted to purchase these when they go on sale (it seems like once a year IIRC). I already have lift bars (Liftbars) for my 987.1 which work well, but it takes about 20 minutes to get it up on 4 jackstands. The benefit of the lift bars is that I can get it higher than the QJ by using some 6T jack stands I have. The potential benefit of the QJ is the ease of getting the car lifted up and the fact I could work on my other cars as well (which I don't have a good option to get all 4 wheels up in the air at once).

My question to anyone who has a QJ is: would you consider the longer version (BL-500EXT) over the standard length unit that is on sale? The standard length unit would also work on my 2012 GTI but surprisingly my wife's 2012 Impreza has lift points (pinch weld) that are 63" on center (3" longer than the SLX can handle). Two ways to handle this is to 1) purchase the SLX frame extension kit or 2) cheat a little bit on the Subbie and just be a bit shy on the center points of each lift point The pinch weld does not seem to be reinforced at the lift point locations like they are on the GTI so I would feel comfortable with the 2nd option. With the extension kit I would just have to consider that the extension kit adds another 1.5" to the height of the QJ. Of course we plan on replacing the Subbie soon with something like a Mecan, CX-5, CrossTrek which may or may not work with the SLX.

Anyway, just looking for feedback on folks that bought the standard length and sometimes wish they got the extended length model.

Thanks,

Mark
 

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V6 - Does the 7000SLX work for the Cayman? I've got a Tundra that comes in at about 5400lb but I don't want to overload and would like to use it on my Cayman.
Thanks
It fits my Boxster just fine. I haven't gotten the Cayman on it yet. My Cayman is lowered, so there is a 1/2 inch less clearance between the 5000 and 7000SLX. But the larger block fit the Boxster easily so I expect the smaller block is all I need. Each lift of the 7000 SLX is just under 100 lbs that makes moving it a bit harder. I bought the 7000SLX to hold my F-150 (with SUV adapter kit).

V6
 

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The EXT is likely too long for a 98X and the adapter would make it too tall to fit under one. The extender may be fine for a SUV with more vertical clearance.

V6
 

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Like many on this list, I've been tempted to purchase these when they go on sale (it seems like once a year IIRC). I already have lift bars (Liftbars) for my 987.1 which work well, but it takes about 20 minutes to get it up on 4 jackstands. The benefit of the lift bars is that I can get it higher than the QJ by using some 6T jack stands I have. The potential benefit of the QJ is the ease of getting the car lifted up and the fact I could work on my other cars as well (which I don't have a good option to get all 4 wheels up in the air at once).

My question to anyone who has a QJ is: would you consider the longer version (BL-500EXT) over the standard length unit that is on sale? The standard length unit would also work on my 2012 GTI but surprisingly my wife's 2012 Impreza has lift points (pinch weld) that are 63" on center (3" longer than the SLX can handle). Two ways to handle this is to 1) purchase the SLX frame extension kit or 2) cheat a little bit on the Subbie and just be a bit shy on the center points of each lift point The pinch weld does not seem to be reinforced at the lift point locations like they are on the GTI so I would feel comfortable with the 2nd option. With the extension kit I would just have to consider that the extension kit adds another 1.5" to the height of the QJ. Of course we plan on replacing the Subbie soon with something like a Mecan, CX-5, CrossTrek which may or may not work with the SLX.

Anyway, just looking for feedback on folks that bought the standard length and sometimes wish they got the extended length model.

Thanks,

Mark
What is the distance between the lift point from one side of the car to the other? I assume it might be shorter than 63" and may fall within the rubber lift block adjustment range. You could easily position the lift crossways under the car rather than long ways assuming the lift doesnt end up right in the way of something that you need to access or interfere with anything that might be in the lift path. The car would just move sideways a bit as it lifted up rather than forward or back
 

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This is in response to Torquenut about the pinch weld center points.

My other car is a 2008 Buick Lacrosse. It weighs about 3800lbs. When I bought the BL-5000SLX I wanted to be able to use it on both vehicles. The designated lift points on the Buick for the pinch welds are 59" apart which cuts it close as per the Quick Jack spec. Once I used the QJ on the Buick I realized there is a little leeway on the placement of the pinch weld blocks on the car. My pinch weld blocks are not positioned exactly where the designated lift points are and the QJ lifts the car fine and is quite solid.

I wouldn't worry about the center points unless you have to put the pinch weld blocks several inches away from the designated center points in the same direction. That might make the car slightly unbalanced.

Another thing about using the pinch weld blocks. On my Buick the pinch weld is mostly covered by the plastic rocker panel. There are a couple of openings on the rocker panel that expose the pinch weld. I have to force the pinch weld blocks in between the rocker panel and the pinch weld to get the blocks on the car. It is not a big deal but I am eventually going to shave about an eighth of an inch off the rocker panel so the blocks slide on the pinch weld easier.
 

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One quick tip for those who have or are getting a set of QJ's.

Get a 5 gallon bucket. It will fit under the oil pan just fine. Loosen the drain bolt, slide the bucket under and then reach up and remove the drain bolt.

All the oil will go into the bucket, no splash, spills, or mess. When done, repeat the process for the oil filter.

When done, toss the lid on it and keep for the next oil change or take to a FLAPS for recycling.

Makes life soooooo much easier. :)
Muchos gracias! Did this today and can confirm it was simple and mess-free. Bonus - it'll hold two full oil changes.
 

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It's a bit spooky: I go away for months, come back here and find the perfect solution for my 1800ft^2 garage, begging for a lift. I'd seen ATV lifts and wished someone made one car-sized too. A 2-post lift would have been too much money and work to install. I felt stuck.

15 minutes hitting the 987 threads and this one stopped me cold. I looked on homeDepot .com and saw > 40% off on the 5000 and 7000lb quickjacks. 20 more minutes looking at QJ site and I went back to HD and bought the 7000lb quickjack - it was about $100 more than the 5K unit, and, well, more is ... more.

Connecting the hydraulic fittings wasn't bad, nor was the rest of the setup. First job was a tire rotation for my subaru. I *will* be getting the unibody weld seam lift blocks, but made do with what came with the kit, no harm done.

Very happy - P9 has done it again!

-PM.
quickjack.jpg
 

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I want to give a shout-out to BendPak. While installing my 7000 I was installing the small hose to the elbow connector and it just didn’t feel like it was making a good seal. So I checked youtube for their official installation video and while the video says to use teflon tape on it, the instruction manual says not to. So I tried tape on the second one and it felt a lot better.

However, looking at the first hose it was clear that the end was split and it wasn’t going to hold fluid. It could have came that way, but it is much more likely that I over-tightened it and caused it to split.

So I tried to order a new hose, ended up speaking to support and they basically insisted on sending me a replacement for free. Scheduled to arrive tomorrow.

Terrific support.

For the record they said they were putting out an updated video at the end of the month. And that you could use the tape if you wanted to, but it wasn’t necessary for those fittings.
 

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Mine will arrive on Wed. Ordered from Costco.
Question for those who've already lifted their 987 or 981. Did you just use the supplied blocks? They seemed a little big and I wondered if the size interfered.

My other vehicle is a Mazda CX5 which has pinch-welds as the jack point. AFAIK first vehicle I've owned that didn't have flat jack-points. I had already ordered 4 round aluminium pinch-weld pads from Amazon and it looks like they'll work for the CX5 as well as that $85 set from BendPak. Then I looked under my 987.2 and noticed that it also appears to have pinch welds. So I was wondering if it also could be lifted that way. Of course there's no need to since it already has flat lift locations.

One other thing. On occasion I might want to maximize the raised height by using both sets of blocks. I'm thinking it would be simple to raise the car first with the small blocks. After it is about 4" off the floor, put a wooden block under each wheel then lower the QJ back to the floor and insert the 2nd block set. Then raise to the max. Same 2-step process when lowering the car.
BTW, one of the QJ videos stated that when stacking blocks, always put the small on top.
 

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I've seen hockey pucks used to lift Porsches with floor jacks at DEs and autocrosses.

far as picking jack points my 0.00002 is I'd only use a spot for support if I can see it's reinforced for lift or solid enough to do the job. Using a pinch weld may not be a good option if you don't know what's underneath it.

mmmv,
-PM.
 

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The blocks included work fine for lifting 987.2. I position them on the QJ slightly forward of the factory designated lift points, bump the “up” button and check the position and adjust right before the blocks makes contact. No need for special pads/ blocks but I use the suggested lift points. I prefer the taller blocks for the rear it helps when you have to remove the lower front engine panel and allows a bit more clearance.

Happy DYI’ing. Great addition to the garage!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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The small rubber blocks will fit, but they compress a little bit under load and the rocker panels of my 981 almost ride on the metal frames. If the larger blocks fit, use them.

I purchased a set of four hard plastic lift blocks. They are round and have a nipple that fits into the hole in the lift point in the car and lock into place by rotating the block 90 degrees. That sits on the QJ smaller rubber lift blocks, making it easier to locate the lift points. This gives the car about 1 inch more clearance to the QJ metal frame. The only issue (small) is to remember to remove the round hard plastic blocks from the lift points before driving off!

V6
 
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