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One more question I forget to ask. Does the QJ come with hydraulic oil, or do I need to make a run to AutoZone for some ATF? I've seen posts saying with and without. Odd that most of the assembly videos skip right over filling the reservoir.
 

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One more question I forget to ask. Does the QJ come with hydraulic oil, or do I need to make a run to AutoZone for some ATF? I've seen posts saying with and without. Odd that most of the assembly videos skip right over filling the reservoir.
Nope. You need to pick up 3 qts of ATF or hyd fluid. It takes 2.1 qts.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
The small rubber blocks will fit, but they compress a little bit under load and the rocker panels of my 981 almost ride on the metal frames. If the larger blocks fit, use them.

I purchased a set of four hard plastic lift blocks. They are round and have a nipple that fits into the hole in the lift point in the car and lock into place by rotating the block 90 degrees. That sits on the QJ smaller rubber lift blocks, making it easier to locate the lift points. This gives the car about 1 inch more clearance to the QJ metal frame. The only issue (small) is to remember to remove the round hard plastic blocks from the lift points before driving off!

V6
Got a link to the plastic blocks? :)
 

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Got a link to the plastic blocks? :)
I bought them via Rennlist classifieds last fall. I took a look and RL deleted his sale ads for not being a site sponsor.. His name is SmokinGTS. PM him, he may still have some. They are hard Delrin plastic. There are steel and rubber commercial equivalents, but some say the rubber tears.

I found these on Amazon, but they don't have the groove to let you rotate and lock the pad into the frame: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Porsche-Polyurethane-Protector-TMB/dp/B01LZMMSR7

This one is closer, but the groove around the neck is too tall: Rennline Low Profile Jack Pad (Lock Type)-Rennline, Inc.

You need 4 for a QuickJack.

V6
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I bought them via Rennlist classifieds last fall. I took a look and RL deleted his sale ads for not being a site sponsor.. His name is SmokinGTS. PM him, he may still have some. They are hard Delrin plastic. There are steel and rubber commercial equivalents, but some say the rubber tears.

I found these on Amazon, but they don't have the groove to let you rotate and lock the pad into the frame: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Porsche-Polyurethane-Protector-TMB/dp/B01LZMMSR7

This one is closer, but the groove around the neck is too tall: Rennline Low Profile Jack Pad (Lock Type)-Rennline, Inc.

You need 4 for a QuickJack.

V6
FWIW (and for anyone else interested in locking jack pads), Rennlist member the-track-guy also sells them for $59 for a set of four.
 

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I bought them via Rennlist classifieds last fall. I took a look and RL deleted his sale ads for not being a site sponsor.. His name is SmokinGTS. PM him, he may still have some. They are hard Delrin plastic. There are steel and rubber commercial equivalents, but some say the rubber tears.

I found these on Amazon, but they don't have the groove to let you rotate and lock the pad into the frame: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Porsche-Polyurethane-Protector-TMB/dp/B01LZMMSR7

This one is closer, but the groove around the neck is too tall: Rennline Low Profile Jack Pad (Lock Type)-Rennline, Inc.

You need 4 for a QuickJack.

V6
Are there any concerns that any of the 'extra' pads may slip off the jack itself?

Like happened in the video posted above, you can see that the jack was almost spit out as the car fell... :eek:
 

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Are there any concerns that any of the 'extra' pads may slip off the jack itself?

Like happened in the video posted above, you can see that the jack was almost spit out as the car fell... :eek:
Just drive up on some 2x6/2x8/2x10 blocks before sliding the QJ underneath. You'll instantly have enough clearance for the large blocks and no concerns about silly pucks, etc... My stock ride height 987.2 fits the large blocks easily, without any boosters, fysa.
 

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Just drive up on some 2x6/2x8/2x10 blocks before sliding the QJ underneath. You'll instantly have enough clearance for the large blocks and no concerns about silly pucks, etc... My stock ride height 987.2 fits the large blocks easily, without any boosters, fysa.
Well that is exactly what I do now on my lift system, more because the Boxster was too low to clear the mechanisms, I simply used the included pads, no extra's like these.

I just thought that these pads would completely eliminate the contact with the pinch welds and floor pans? Although I know that the dealer doesn't use any 'extra' pads on their post lifts which have a similar pad to mine.
 

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I have used the rubber blocks exclusively and have never had a problem. This is on both my Cayman and several other family/friend's cars. On the Japanese cars where the jack points are on the welded seam, I just center the rubber block under the seam. Works great and does not damage the (very dense and strong) rubber.

I also use the QuickJacks (5000 model) on our NA Miata with race suspension. The car is too low for the jacks to be slid out from underneath, but it works if we separate the jacks, drive between them and then slide the jacks in from the outside. This may also work with some lowered Porsches.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Are there any concerns that any of the 'extra' pads may slip off the jack itself?

Like happened in the video posted above, you can see that the jack was almost spit out as the car fell... :eek:
The jack pads that I mentioned above (available from Rennlist member the-track-guy) lock into the jack points on the car's frame rails.
 

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With a QJ, you put the lift rails under the car with no blocks. Then screw in the locking plastic lift pads into the car's lift points. If the pad is the locking type, it will hang there, attached to the car. This is much more difficult with a non-locking pad as the non-locking pad will fall out and makes alignment with the rubber blocks much more tedious.

Then put in the small rubber blocks and raise the lift until the bottom of the lift pad is almost touching the rubber block. Readjust so that the QJ rubber block is centered under the plastic lift pad. Then the car is safe to raise.

V6
 

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Are there any concerns that any of the 'extra' pads may slip off the jack itself?

Like happened in the video posted above, you can see that the jack was almost spit out as the car fell... :eek:
If you follow the procedure I wrote above then there is no concern. If you use the locking type pad, they are centered in the support/frame area and make it much easier to safely align the pads on the lift.

On another note, I had an accident when a 1.5 ton HF aluminum low profile racing jack collapsed sideways and got pinned under the car. It took a second jack to lift the car up and retrieve the jack (which went to the local trash facility). Fortunately there was no damage to the car. The single front roller lacks stability and the thickness of that jack's frame is not sufficient with a side load. Car was on a very slight incline. Frame bent sideways and could not be retracted.

V6
 

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No room on my car for anything extra. Clear by 3/8 with 20's on; will be lucky if lift fits under car with nothing when the 18's are used.
 

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Forgive the thread necromancy. I was thinking of getting a Quick Jack. In reading through the manual I notice that one is not supposed to go under the car until it's properly supported with stands. Since the Quick Jack uses the normal jack points I was wondering how you all handled this?
 

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I just put my CS on my lift for the first time today, as noted blocking under the factory jack points.

The short answer is I'm depending on the lift's locks. As you raise the lift a 1"-box thick walled steel brace bar slides along it's track, up and over the first and then second lock points (much like raising the back of a lawn chair!), riding on a follower cam. You raise the car above a lock point, both braces beyond their lock/stops.

Then release the pressure in the jacks by lowering the car until it's held on the stops by the braces. At that point the braces can't be moved.

The only way to lower the car, then, is to raise it again and flip the cams manually so they'll slide and lift the brace bars back over the stops as you lower the car.

Hope this helps, I like my lift.

-PM.

edit: fixed the description of the brace ... I really shouldn't try to work from memory. at all.
 

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Thanks, it looks like a good bit of kit. I liked that it had mechanical locks. Particularly after the seals went on my floor jack recently while changing tires. PITA. It's just that the jack stand support caution looked serious as opposed to the usual legal nonsense stuffed into user manuals. Coffee is hot, don't taste the rat poison etc.
 

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Agree with that but you can add the jack stands if you do some studying. You can go under the front and rear A arms, Just position the jack stands under them as added insurance, You don't have to actually put the car onto them.
Like my Quick Jacki n FL a lot easier and cheaper than adding in lift sunk into the floor or a 2-4 post lift like I had in my NY garage.
 

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If I'm going to be under there for a while or doing something that might upset the weight distribution of the car, or add side-to-side forces, etc., I put a jack stand or two somewhere under the car in the vicinity where I'm working. Just in case of a catastrophic failure (or dumb-*** mistake), I'd rather sacrifice the car than get squished like a bug.

Using QJ the first time on my other car (Mazda CX5) to rotate the tires, I made a mistake by stacking both sets of the included rubber blocks along with another brand pinch-weld jack pad adapters. While removing the second tire, the car slid to one side and fell off the QJ. No damage done but a real pain to get all 4 wheels on and safely on the ground again. I then bought QJ's optional rubber blocks specifically for pinch-weld seams and I don't stack the blocks any more. Now it is totally stable. Lesson learned.
 

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Just adding my .02 - Have used my QuickJacks for 3 years now, they are excellent. As Plainsman says, use the built-in locking function and it's very solid. Very happy with my purchase, would buy again.
 
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