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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone here have any thoughts on which Dr Colorchip kit to go with? There is a squeegee based one meant for large areas, such as for sandblasting (which I have a lot of), and there is a brush on, smearing, kit. Any reason to go with one or the other? I plan to use this mainly for sandblasting that I have down near, and around, the air scoops on my white Boxster.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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I opted for the kit with the squeegee, as I too had some of the so-called sandblasting marks around the air intakes and behind the wheels down low. The squeegee did a fine job leveling the paint before I used the SealAct blending solution. The squeegee also worked well on smaller chips. One thing I observed about the process was that letting the paint dry for 10-15 minutes before using the SealAct produced a better finished result.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I opted for the kit with the squeegee, as I too had some of the so-called sandblasting marks around the air intakes and behind the wheels down low. The squeegee did a fine job leveling the paint before I used the SealAct blending solution. The squeegee also worked well on smaller chips. One thing I observed about the process was that letting the paint dry for 10-15 minutes before using the SealAct produced a better finished result.
How well did the paint do? Obvious coverup? Good as new? Smooth?

I'm not expecting factory finish, but also not wanting it to look obvious either. Like a girl with too much make up.

Thanks!
Matt
 

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My used 07 Guards Red Cayman had a lot of very minor chips in the front bumper and hood when I got it. I started with normal touch up paint, but just too many tiny pits so went with the Dr Colorchip. The tricky part is the removal of the paint outside the chips. My attempts tended to remove some of the paint within the chip - so maybe waiting longer as suggested above would have worked better. But if you wait too long the paint becomes pretty difficult to remove. I probably should have split my work into smaller areas. End of the day I think it looks a bit better from a few feet away, but the chips are all clearly visible on close inspection. The biggest issue I have with the chips is when I've used a white polishing compound or wax that collects in the pits, turning them white, so I'm now a bit more careful on selection of products. I've had the car for three years now so the initial burst of enthusiasm to make it look perfect has waned, and I can't see ANY chips from the driver's seat!
 

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How well did the paint do? Obvious coverup? Good as new? Smooth?

I'm not expecting factory finish, but also not wanting it to look obvious either. Like a girl with too much make up.

Thanks!
Matt
Having used both factory touch-up pens and DR Colorchip with the squeegee, I think the finished result is much better with the latter. Plus DR Colorchip is easier to use in that one does not have to be all that precise in applying the paint because the SealAct allows one to clean up the "mess" left behind. To my eyes the finished result is not factory new but it is also not obvious like with a paint pen, as paint blobs do not exist with the DR Colorchip method (with some effort, the blobs with the traditional paint pen can be minimized but not entirely eliminated). So yes, the finished result is indeed smooth with DR Colorchip and the squeegee.

May I suggest that you search for some YouTube videos on DR Colorchip showing how the product is applied and the finished result. As I recall, the ones I viewed were an accurate representation of the finished result.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, with the squeegee method, the paint stays inside the pits and the process removes the paint that is smeared all over, everywhere else? I guess one could repeat the process until the paint in the pits completely fills the pit?
 

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So, with the squeegee method, the paint stays inside the pits and the process removes the paint that is smeared all over, everywhere else? I guess one could repeat the process until the paint in the pits completely fills the pit?
Yes, with the squeegee, I find that it forces the paint in the pit better and leaves a lighter film of paint around the chip. If you let the paint then dry for 10–15 minutes—more than what is suggested by DR Colorchip instructions—then the light film around the pit is removed more readily without removing the paint in the pit. I recall that the Auto Geek guru suggested longer drying times too. I think that by letting the paint dry longer, the thicker paint in the pit is allowed to dry more throughly, so that upon application of the SealAct, the paint in the pit is less likely to be wiped away. Gentle and continuous wiping with the SealAct-treated cloth is the key, I have found.

And yes, for some chips I found that I had to apply the complete process—smear paint, let dry, and apply SealAct—several times to achieve a level fill and a result that met my expectations.
 

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To my eyes the finished result is not factory new but it is also not obvious like with a paint pen, as paint blobs do not exist with the DR Colorchip method (with some effort, the blobs with the traditional paint pen can be minimized but entirely eliminated). So yes, the finished result is indeed smooth with DR Colorchip and the squeegee....
I definitely agree - the slightly concave depressions with Dr Colorchip are much less noticeable than the blobs I get with touchup paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got the kit with squeegee. Came late, so I'll have to wait till this weekend to try it out. I'll be sure to take some before and after photos.
 

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looking forward to seeing a before and after, if possible take close up picture of the same rock chip... Thanks!
 

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I have both kits and definitely for lots of small chips the squeegee is the way to go. Larger chips the regular kit and "rub with the thumb" seems to be better. Longer drying times also do seems to help with a smoother appearance. You can also do multiple coats. Lots of work, but much better than the old school methods.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is it supposed to be so difficult to remove the excess paint? I feel like I'm going to damage my car with how hard I have to rub?
 

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Is it supposed to be so difficult to remove the excess paint? I feel like I'm going to damage my car with how hard I have to rub?
Yep, I found the whole process pretty frustrating, but ended up with positive results - not great, but a definite improvement. The longer you wait after applying the paint, the harder you have to "scrub", but more paint will stay in the chips. I ended up lightly polishing the car after I was done using Optimum GPS.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is the before and after. Definitely still visible, but not from a few feet away. Worth the $80 it cost for this stuff? Dunno. You definitely need the chip to be an actual chip. Didn't work at all on the sand blasting that I have near my intake vents. They may be more clear coat damage than paint. I found that using the blending solution plus cloth along with the rubber squeegee made the removal of extra paint easier.
 

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Here is the before and after. Definitely still visible, but not from a few feet away. Worth the $80 it cost for this stuff? Dunno. You definitely need the chip to be an actual chip. Didn't work at all on the sand blasting that I have near my intake vents. They may be more clear coat damage than paint. I found that using the blending solution plus cloth along with the rubber squeegee made the removal of extra paint easier.
Tough to tell from a picture about the relative 'fill' of the damage but certainly covering the primer below helps. The following comment might be due to the colour rendition in the after photo but I would say that the colour match is not right, if it were closer or indeed exact you would have a better result.

FWIW, any time I have tried a paint chip repair with factory touch-up paint the give-away was the blob or spillover, not the colour match. What I want to perfect is the art of using the factory matched touch-up paint to fill and smooth these types of chips.
 

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I've used this product for years on my Arena Red Boxster. On deep chips, it may take 2 or more applications to get it flush. Wait 24-48 hrs. before applying the second coat.

Also, it's best to wash, clay, and polish to get closer to the paint before using.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Tough to tell from a picture about the relative 'fill' of the damage but certainly covering the primer below helps. The following comment might be due to the colour rendition in the after photo but I would say that the colour match is not right, if it were closer or indeed exact you would have a better result.

FWIW, any time I have tried a paint chip repair with factory touch-up paint the give-away was the blob or spillover, not the colour match. What I want to perfect is the art of using the factory matched touch-up paint to fill and smooth these types of chips.
The color match is better in person, the overhead light was reflecting a bit. My white is carrera white, which is a warmer white. This is after coat number two. I'll try a third coat later, today is backroad driving day!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've used this product for years on my Arena Red Boxster. On deep chips, it may take 2 or more applications to get it flush. Wait 24-48 hrs. before applying the second coat.

Also, it's best to wash, clay, and polish to get closer to the paint before using.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Polishing probably would help. Some chips are pretty rough, so I didn't try it on them. I have some rubbing compound and some polishing compound I'll try on them. I think this paint has potential, just requires more work.
 
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