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Discussion Starter #1
So i took the dive, and began removing engine on 2008 Cayman S. Overall going OK so far.

Two issues I can't solve so I though I would post here.


1. The plastic covering that goes around engine compartment on top. Specifically the silverish one. I need to disconnect the ground wire on the wiring harness, and its tucked up behind the styrafoam. How do i remove this plastic cover. I'm sure the answer is simple.



2. On the muffler / exhaust. Where it connects in the middle. Orange arrow in the pelican parts technical article. I cannot get it apart. I tried with a 13mm u-joint socket and it won't grab. Its trying to strip. Any points of wisdom on disconnecting this?



Thanks in advance guys!
 

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Use interior removal tool to pry up the silver panel. It is snapped in by 11 or 12 clips. Not quite sure about the exhaust bolt but if it is the bolts for the header to muffler then you probably need to counterhold the nut.
 

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I think you might just need to use a deep socket for the exhaust. Also the clamps have small spot welds on them.
 

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On the exhaust, go at it thru the wheel wells w/ the wheels off and a 6" to 12" extension. Perfect angle for that.
 

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On the exhaust, go at it thru the wheel wells w/ the wheels off and a 6" to 12" extension. Perfect angle for that.
Yes, that worked best for me when I installed my cat back. Also, best to spray the nuts/studs w WD40 or PB blaster and let them soak it up overnight. I guess since you are dropping the engine anyway,a snappedstud or two wouldn't be so hard to fix - but soaking them will lessen the chance. I'd use new brass nuts when you reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Gentleman,

Thank you for the tips. I am moving ahead so far.

So removing tire made it much easier to get at (ofcourse). I soaked with wd-40 overnight (actually it ended up being a week before I got back to it)
1 stud came off
4 studs broke
1 stud stripped (will have to try and heat up and chisel off tomorrow)*

*if anyone have a better recommended method for getting the stud off I am open to suggestions.

I got the silver plastic cover off no problem. I just had to man up and pull hard enough.

So I have two questions now, that hopefully someone can help me with.

1. The mass air flow sensor. What type of socket / head is required to get this screw / bolt off? Its got five sides. I could unplug but I want to get the thing actually off.





2. The bar underneath the rear axles. not sure proper term. Once unbolted along middle, it has two swivel points on each end. What is the proper method of detaching this?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gents,

So for my latest update.

Here is a quick video of where I'm at. Next time I'll do it widescreen, sorry about the aspect.
Removing Engine Porsche 2008 Cayman S - YouTube

So thing so far;
1. Here is the carnage of exhaust bolts. Had to drill / chisel the last one out.


2. I figured out how to take that brace out. Read the Porsche manual and it says "internal torx screw" sure enough, i found it on the inside. Sneaky.


3. So a few things that I'm struggling with. The shifter cable on the left side. It popped off the end, but the bracket partway along doesn't want to move. I think its just a case of me pulling harder though.


4. The compressor for A/C. Is there any videos or anything on getting it out. I unbolted it, but its in their hard, and doesn't want to move.


5. So now I have to disconnect the clutch, but I can't seem to figure out where / how to do that. Reading through some how-to's. Do I actually disconnect parts in the front hood?

6. Also need to disconnect power steering line. Having trouble locating where to disconnect this.


Thanks guys,
Nick
 

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Nick,
No real reason to take out the MAF from the tube, you can just leave it in and disconnect the wire from the clip.

Power steering is usually disconnected at the pump but I suppose could be disconnected at the other end of the hose, I think there is also a way just to disconnect the pump from the block and tie it up out of the way and leave the lines intact but I'm not 100% certain on that.
 

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On the shift linkages, you can pry the rubber surrounded cables out of their respective "clips" w/ a flat bladed screw driver. no harm done.

Note their orientation so you can put them back in correctly. You'll probably end up using a zip tie to lock them back in place when you put the car back together.
 

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Disconnecting the power steering line: You'll have to remove the black underbody panel on the driver side. The disconnects for the lines are under there.

A/C Compressor: Do NOT disconnect the lines to it. The manual says to leave it in the car. Get a plastic bag to wrap around it and lay it in the passenger compartment. You may have to remove the power steering pump in order to get the AC compressor out. I believe there are 3 bolts holding it in, make sure you have loosened all 3.
 

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The clutch slave cylinder is on top of the transmission and is held in with one bolt. You may have to lower it down a little bit to get to it.
 

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The rear sway bar detaches with a pickle fork. It looks like a tuning fork that start out small at the two tips and gets thicker as they go back. The thin tips go between the sway bar and the ball joint. One then pounds on the Handel of the fork with a 3 pound sledge hammer. As the fork gets forced in, the wedge effect of thickening forks pops the joint apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Making progress. Slowly though. I have few free weekends.

So I have everything removed. Except for the A/C compressor.

Video of overall progress
Removing engine on 08 Porsche Cayman - YouTube

Video of A/C compressor
AC Compressor 2008 Porsche Cayman - YouTube

If someone can give me some help with the A/C compressor that would be awesome. I can't seem to get it out for the life of me. Obviously I am missing something. A comment earlier said 3 bolts, I only removed 2, missing one maybe? Didn't see it though.


As for the slave cylinder, I didn't remove it. I also didn't see it. I removed a hydraulic line to the transmission though.


To answer a few of the questions. Removing engine as it is burning lots of oil and tapping sound now. So maybe scored cylinders or lifters damaged. Most likely a result of me running it low on oil. Be more careful kids, this ain't no pickup truck that can take abuse. So i'm turning it into a project, hopefully learn something. Not sure where my end point will be though, may need to enlist the help of a professional at some point. And yes, I am aware that I will need software to reset some stuff, but were a ways from that.

Thanks for the help as always guys!
 

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My apologies, there are only two bolts holding the ACncompressor in. I do remember it being difficult. Make sure the lines going to it are free from any holders, allowing freer movement.
 

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My apologies, there are only two bolts holding the ACncompressor in. I do remember it being difficult. Make sure the lines going to it are free from any holders, allowing freer movement.
I beg to differ. There are three torx head bolts, two on the pulley end and on on the rear of the compressor. The rear bolt is hard to see and access without moving or removing some of the intake manifold. The factory service manual has a good procedure on the engine removal, I highly recommend taking a look at it.

I have some hints and pictures on the process here: http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-boxster-modifications/60294-engine-drop-ttp-accusump-vos.html
 

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I beg to differ. There are three torx head bolts, two on the pulley end and on on the rear of the compressor. The rear bolt is hard to see and access without moving or removing some of the intake manifold. The factory service manual has a good procedure on the engine removal, I highly recommend taking a look at it.

I have some hints and pictures on the process here: http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-boxster-modifications/60294-engine-drop-ttp-accusump-vos.html
I stand corrected. I didn't scroll up one page in the manual to see it pointing out removing the rear M8 x 120 torx bolt. Removal of the intake is not necessary, just use a swivel extension or universal.
 

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I'm impressed! To not know what a swaybar is and jump into taking out a mid-engine...I admire your confidence! A steep learning curve, but hey it's only one bolt at a time right? Best of luck.
 

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The rear sway bar detaches with a pickle fork. It looks like a tuning fork that start out small at the two tips and gets thicker as they go back. The thin tips go between the sway bar and the ball joint. One then pounds on the Handel of the fork with a 3 pound sledge hammer. As the fork gets forced in, the wedge effect of thickening forks pops the joint apart.
Do not use a pickle fork on the 987 swaybars, it will just break them. Use an combination wrench (15mm comes to mind) on the nut and a torx wrench on the inside of the threaded ball joint stud.
 
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