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Discussion Starter #21
I noticed when doing the rear brakes, there was not a brake damper on the rear calipers.
Can anyone verify/validate that ? I'd like to make sure a previous owner did not leave them off.
Stated earlier, but fyi.. vehicle is a 2009 987.2 base (2.9).

Reading back thru this thread, I see that the torq value of the caliper bolts is 63 ft lbs, I tightened them to 65 ft lbs... should I take the wheels off and go back and reset them to 63 ft lbs ?

While torquing the caliper bolts to 65 ft lbs, my "husky" / "home depot" brand of size 55 star-bit-drive broke. It is a 2 piece design. I got a free replacement from Home Depot (lifetime warranty), but decided to get a solid piece star-bit-drive. Found one at O'Reilliy's Auto Parts for $13.00. I went to Granger and they wanted $110.00 for a "impact wrench" torq drive star-bit size #55. I decided not to go that route at this time.

I bought a new/larger torq wrench, as my first one only goes up to 100 ft lbs, I believe the wheels need to be torqued to 120 tb lbs.

Vehicle is still on jack stands / lift bars.

Contemplating my next step.

Thank-you,
Tom
mid-Michigan
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I took a mini-break and realized "it is good practice opportunity" :)
I removed the wheels and re-did the caliper bolts at 63 ft lbs.
 

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You should technically have dampeners for the rear, I am really not sure how necessary they are, I left mine out for my last 2 rear pad changes and have had no issues, really hard to get back in without taking caliper apart.
 

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Brake cleaner (and carb cleaner) will eat paint, so be careful where you spray that stuff. I'd try Purple Power or Simple Green to clean painted undercarriage/suspension components.

Wheel bolt torque varies with year model. Up to 2012, I believe it was 96 ft.lbs., but recently read that Porsche upped it to 100 ft.lbs. After 2012, 118 ft.lbs. is being bantered around.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank-you guys. I will order 2 brake dampers for the rear wheels.

I got all 4 wheels back on.

For me, these things are heavy and are a lot of work to remove and re-install.

I took one of the lug-bolts to the bolt shop and got some matching 6 inch long bolts... I cut the square head off, ground down the edge to a nice bevel... put 2 in the hub to help me "line up" each wheel as I put it on. I used two 2x6's on top of each other to raise the wheel up to within a couple MM of the temporary-placement-stud.

The rear wheels are larger, but for some reason they are easier for me to fit back onto the hubs than the front ones are.

Once I figured out a little system, life got much easier for me. I was pretty much on an ibuprofen diet and off to the chiropractor after my first go-around, before I got the temp/bolt/studs with 2x6 system figured out.

I adjusted the emergency brake shoes as best as I could, I tested the hand brake / emergency brake and it is holding. I wish I didn't have to lift the engagement handle as high as I do. This is something I will need to revisit.

I will do some research on the wheel torque amount - thank-you for the heads-up.

Tom
 

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356B
A coupe of points that may help you in the future:
The caliper bolts are single use. You need to replace them with new each with each use.
In the case where you over tighten the bolts to 65 instead 63 ft lbs, don't undo and then retorque the bolts. 2 lbs is so minor it's not going to effect anything. Plus by loosing them and retorquing them - that technically a use and in Porsche eyes require new bolts. Since they weren't really used in service you should be fine. Just keep it mind in the future.
They sell threaded rods to use as guides for installing the wheels again. You basically made your own. I've done that with some my new cars that didn't take the Porsche thread.
The back wheels are easier to reinstall because the axle doesn't move as freely as the front plus you probably had the emergency brake on which will stop axle from turning.
The wheel torque spec is probably in your owner manual if you have one plus you may find some other torque specs in there also.
Good thing you got the bigger torque wrench as the newer cars are 118 lbs.
Sorry you are having such back problems
I have back problems also but have figured out the exercises I need to do to fix my back up without going for treatments. Maybe your chiropractor can advise what may help you out,
Hope some of this helps.
 
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For me, these things are heavy and are a lot of work to remove and re-install.

I took one of the lug-bolts to the bolt shop and got some matching 6 inch long bolts... I cut the square head off, ground down the edge to a nice bevel... put 2 in the hub to help me "line up" each wheel as I put it on.
Fyi... the guide bolts that you made are commonly known as "wheel hangers."

-Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I was looking at my battery, it looks like it has been leaking. As I was getting it out, it looks like the problem has been going on for a while. I got the battery out.

Is it suggested to get a new battery tray or take the existing one for sand blasting and I can rattle-can/prime-paint it myself.

I will attach a picture of the battery tray.

Thank-you,
Tom
Porsch 2009 Boxster - Battery Tray.JPG
 

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Is it suggested to get a new battery tray or take the existing one for sand blasting and I can rattle-can/prime-paint it myself.
In the 10+ yrs I've been on p9, I don't recall this ever being an issue. I'd remove that tray first to see what damage might be hidden below.

If the tray metal seems structurally sound, just go ahead and paint it after a good washing/drying.
 

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Yep, your battery leaked. There’s a drain tube that’s supposed to help prevent this. When you replace the battery you typically need to hook up the drain tube on one side and plug the hole in the battery on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I got a new battery. I have it on the work bench.

I got the battery tray out, after a few sessions of squiring the nuts with various "liquid wrench" products, each nut came off with little resistance.

The drain tube was hooked up, but maybe the drain tube is clogged ? I will check it.

Before dropping the battery tray off at a media blaster and having it painted, I will see if I can wire wheel and elbow grease the rust off of it. A new battery tray is around $195.00.

Here are a couple of more pictures.
Porsche 2009 Boxster -  Battery_Tray_Before_Cleaning.JPG
Porsch 2009 Boxster - Under Battery Tray.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Updated picture after some clean-up.

I might do a little more finger sanding on it tomorrow.

I will get some rattle can primer and give it a spray soon.

Porsche 2009 Boxster -  Battery_Tray_After_Cleaning.JPG
 

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That looks pretty good, considering where it started! I think you should be fine with primer and spray paint. You might lightly rough up the rest of the tray and repaint the whole thing.

Your body panel under the tray looks fine, you lucked out there. Do make sure the drain tube is clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I used a scotch pad, which is about 400 grit I think. I lightly went over the tray with it.

I used rustoleum etching primer (gray) and rustoleum paint (black). I put on a few coats, it will probably take 24 hours to dry.

Porsche 2009 Boxster -  Battery_Tray_After_Paint_2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I am not sure if I should start another thread or continue this one... I will try here and see where this goes.

I checked the Battery drain tube - I verified it has a clog in it. Following the drain tube I took the small plastic panel off.. trying to follow the drain line, to see about replacing it. It goes thru a large rubber grommet into the wheel-well or gas-cap-filler area.

Is it better to cut the clog area out and do a "patch/repair". My fear of removing the large rubber grommet is that I will never get it back in correctly.

Any suggestions/recommendations are appreciated.

Thank-you,
Tom
 

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Very nice that the tray did what it was designed to do, looks like no damage to the car, I really like the rustoleum paint, works great for these kind of projects, looks great.
 

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Keep in mind the purpose of that hose is to allow the small amount of explosive hydrogen sulfide gas (by-product of charging) to escape the enclosed trunk compartment. If electrolyte is also being emitted, the battery is being overcharged. Maybe there's a short in the battery or something else wrong with the charging system.

Have you tried clearing that blockage? Maybe pouring water or a mild solvent (windshield washer fluid or rubbing alcohol). Followed by some compressed air. The tube only needs to pass a small volume of gas, so it doesn't need to be free-flowing. If you do decide to cut-out the section that's blocked, just use small nylon connector at the cut and add some vinyl hose to clear the wheelwell. It just needs to be out of the enclosed space. Cars that don't have the battery in an enclosed space don't have or need a vent hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I put a new battery in last week.

Good to know regarding the "explosive hydrogen sulfide gas"... that sure is a wake up call to do things right.

I installed the new battery, fastened things back down and the car started like a champ.

I tested the voltage at the battery:

14.67 volts when the engine is not running.
15.98 volts when the engine is running.

Does this indicate I need to pursue finding an over charging issue ?

Today I got a section of 3/16 hose, I cut out the "clog" area and replaced that section. I used a straight "pipe" splice section that was provided to me with the hose at the autoparts store.

I am a little concerned that I should not plan on a short drive for the procedure for bedding in the new brakes, until I know more about the over charging issue.

I am feeling like my little brake job has turned into a lot more.

Thank-you,
Tom
 

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A charge at nearly 16V seems high to me. Was this at idle? A quick google found "Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell)". AGM batteries can take a higher charge. But your car's system was not designed for AGM (although they'll work fine).

Also I've read that a 12V flooded cell battery @100% should produce 12.7-12.8v with no load. An AGM battery is slightly higher.

I'm sure someone here with more knowledge will step in.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I agree, that sounded high to me. I did some google searches and it sounds like at idle, anything over 14.7 and there is an issue.
 
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