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Discussion Starter #1
I read the thread initiated by Mr. Brown on this topic.

Just wondering how many folks have made this change on their 981's ??
I was thinking of ordering the studs and have the dealer install as part of the PDI for my GTS on order. ....

Don
 

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Don,i bought a set . Its a good idea because a steel bolt in an alum hole is not a great idea if you are going to swap pads for track.The stock bolts are junk .Look at the treads see how their cut. Compare to a quality rolled thread on the stud. The install is a simple DIY .carl


stud.jpg
 

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I bought Tarett caliper stud. Plan to put them on soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I checked the Tarett web site --- their studs look very robust !! shiny SS... neat. Pricey, but look great..

the installation instructions are pretty simple, maybe even I can do it !!
Thanks for the lead.

Don
 

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I was also concerned about the aluminum upright damage caused by removing the caliper bolts often to change the front brake pads. Talking with shop folks, they recommended nutserts be installed in the front uprights. I know it is more expensive to do; but, as they said, I'll be better off in the long run.

My 2 cents.
 

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I was also concerned about the aluminum upright damage caused by removing the caliper bolts often to change the front brake pads. Talking with shop folks, they recommended nutserts be installed in the front uprights. I know it is more expensive to do; but, as they said, I'll be better off in the long run.

My 2 cents.
I wouldn't do nut-serts unless you have damaged the threads. The factory race cars use studs. You really don't want someone drilling and re-tapping the strut. Studs are the better way to go.carl
 

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If the caliper upright is aluminum and the Tarett stud bolts are stainless steel has any one seen issues with galvanic corrosion? Typically, you never have aluminum and stainless steel used together where there is any chance of exposure to salts (i.e. road salts, ocean mist, hard water).
 

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If the caliper upright is aluminum and the Tarett stud bolts are stainless steel has any one seen issues with galvanic corrosion? Typically, you never have aluminum and stainless steel used together where there is any chance of exposure to salts (i.e. road salts, ocean mist, hard water).
Good point. I hadn't thought of that but I know when I recently built an aluminum ramp rack for my Featherlite, I avoided SS hardware for that very reason.

I wouldn't do nut-serts unless you have damaged the threads. The factory race cars use studs. You really don't want someone drilling and re-tapping the strut. Studs are the better way to go.carl
Ditto. DO NOT install inserts if you plan on installing studs. After heavy tracking, I seized some bolts and had to install inserts. They are almost impossible to install precisely aligned and when I put in the studs, the alignment was off just enough to make it difficult to slide the caliper on and off. The best time to install studs is as soon as you get your car. That is, if you plan on tracking a lot. If you aren't tracking a lot or just street driving, I wouldn't bother.
My 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Interesting point on corrosion .... Then again, what metal are the OEM bolts?? Are they Aluminum? or some mild steel.

I wonder what Tarrett is saying about this matter?

I surely will inspect periodically..

D
 
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