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I just bought a new set of 18" wheels (used) for my 981 CS for track and winter use. I can get the wheels switched for free at Discount Tires shop but the problem is I don't have a second car to carry all 4 wheels to the shop (atleast not for another year). So I have decided to DIY even though I have no idea what kind of tools I need to buy and where. I have changed wheels before but always used the tool kit that came with the car but with Porsche, we don't get them unless we pay. So trying to find all necessary tools for as cheap as possible. I already got a jack. Need to buy torque wrench, wheel hanger (necessary?), etc,. Can you guys help me with what kind (like size?) torque wrench to buy?

If I am not wrong, I think I need to buy 3/4" torque wrench but its price varies from $50 to $300 online. I am not sure why and which one to buy.

Appreciate your help guys.
 

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You need a jack, which is low enough to fit under the jacking point, not all are. I also use a jack pad. You should also use a jack stand.

The wheel hanger is the most useful tool there is, its not absolutely necessary, but I'd recommend it. If you have PCCB, two are essential.

You need a 19mm socket for whatever torque wrench you have. One which covers 160Nm is what you want, I like the Craftsmen "Digitork" ones. A breaker bar which is compatible with the socket is also useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You need a jack, which is low enough to fit under the jacking point, not all are. I also use a jack pad. You should also use a jack stand.

The wheel hanger is the most useful tool there is, its not absolutely necessary, but I'd recommend it. If you have PCCB, two are essential.

You need a 19mm socket for whatever torque wrench you have. One which covers 160Nm is what you want, I like the Craftsmen "Digitork" ones. A breaker bar which is compatible with the socket is also useful.
I got the jack with min height of 5 in. It works for my car.

What kind of wrench should I buy? 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" or 3/4"? Do they make any difference?

Where can I buy wheel hangers? I saw some on eBay but are they available in hardware stores?

Thanks for your help :)
 

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You won't likely find wheel hangers in stores. I made my own by cutting the heads off 14mm x 300mm bolts. I believe Suncoast and other Porsche parts vendors do have them. However they are just a convenience to help align the hub and wheel holes. Since our wheels are hub-centric, the "hangers" aren't needed to hold the wheels in place. If you are going to be doing this much, consider replacing the lug bolts with a set of actual lugs and nuts. I think Schnell sells a kit. Then you won't need hangers and the whole process will be easier.

Your 5" jack isn't any good if your tire is flat. Also, not enough room if you want to use a jack-pad (I don't bother). I think my jack is 3.5" high.
Just so you are clear - don't use the torque wrench to loosen/remove or replace the bolts. Just the final "torquing" after the wheel is back on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You won't likely find wheel hangers in stores. I made my own by cutting the heads off 14mm x 300mm bolts. I believe Suncoast and other Porsche parts vendors have them. However they are just a convenience to help align the hub and wheel holes. Since our wheels are hub-centric, the "hangers" aren't needed to hold the wheels in place. If you are going to be doing this much, consider replacing the lug bolts with a set of actual lugs and nuts. I think Schnell sells a kit. The you won't need hangers and the whole process will be easier.

Your 5" jack isn't any good if your tire is flat. Also, not enough room if you want to use a jack-pad (I don't bother). I think my jack is 3.5" high.
Just so you are clear - don't use the torque wrench to loosen/remove or replace the bolts. Just the final "torquing" after the wheel is back on the ground.
I found some wheel hangers on eBay. Not sure if they are compatible.

I will look for lugs/nut kit. I might be doing this often (atleast once a month) in summer.

What should I use for removing the bolts? A breaker bar?
 

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What should I use for removing the bolts? A breaker bar?
Any lug wrench will work. I carry a collapsible one I got at Walmart. I carry it in the frunk along with a hanger (and a cheap scissors jack) for emergencies. In the garage I use a 1/2" breaker-bar and socket.

Speaking of sockets, try to find one with a lining that won't mar your lugs and wheels. I think someone mentioned Auto Zone having them.
 

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I found some wheel hangers on eBay. Not sure if they are compatible.

I will look for lugs/nut kit. I might be doing this often (atleast once a month) in summer.

What should I use for removing the bolts? A breaker bar?
Buy the wheel hangers from the dealer, they are not that expensive, and get 2!

Buy a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2" torque wrench capable of the required settings and a deep 19mm socket.

Buy a low profile jack, as mentioned the nose should be around 3-1/2" high when lowered, also a pair of wheel chocks.
 
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get a tube of Optimoly TA paste. light coating on the bolt threads. careful it is messy stuff, wear gloves.
 

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I've done multiple tire changes on my two Caymans (summer / winter).
For removal I use a handy telescoping breaker bar (amazon about $25)Gorilla Automotive 1721 Telescoping Power Wrench - Standard Socket
For torque wrench (amazon about $50) :KR Tools 50812 Pro Series 1/2-Inch Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench
--you might need converter 3/8 to 1/2 inch for your standard socket wrench/sockets
I use an old floor craftsman floor jack given to me by a neighbor, barely fits. Be sure you either have an adapter for the lift points or use something else so jack raises ONLY on jack point and not crunching on sheathing etc (I use regulation black hockey puck, works perfectly).
I have never used wheel hangers, never had an issue without them.
Recently added but not really necessary over most sockets:Titan 21092 1/2" Drive Deep Lug Nut Socket. Size 19 mm

It is easy once you have the right tools and done it once. Overall a big time saver than taking car somewhere else.
 

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Not according to Porsche. Been discussed before.


Dan
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Guess I missed that discussion. It is recommended in the owners manual for my Cayman R, also my 986 Bentley manual.
 

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The place that I've seen recommended in the 987 owners manual for anti-seize on the lug bolts is between the bolt head and collar. The little rotating piece that actually contacts the wheel. I don't recall any recommendation for anything on the threads or between the wheel and the collar. Adding lube on the threads typically requires reduced torque. 10% is what comes to mind offhand but I wouldn't want to swear to it.

One place that a light film of grease can help is on the wheel centering pilot diameter. Haven't had an aluminum wheel stick on the hub since I started doing this years ago. Not an issue if the wheels are off regularly.
 

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Torque wrench needs to be able to set 120 LB per nut. Can use air tool or big old metal wrench (needs to be big to get the amount of force).
 

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The place that I've seen recommended in the 987 owners manual for anti-seize on the lug bolts is between the bolt head and collar. The little rotating piece that actually contacts the wheel. I don't recall any recommendation for anything on the threads or between the wheel and the collar. Adding lube on the threads typically requires reduced torque. 10% is what comes to mind offhand but I wouldn't want to swear to it.

One place that a light film of grease can help is on the wheel centering pilot diameter. Haven't had an aluminum wheel stick on the hub since I started doing this years ago. Not an issue if the wheels are off regularly.
Not to take this off topic but both my 987.2 and 986 owners manuals clearly describe a light film of Optimoly on the threads and the gap between the bolt head and the spherical collar but not on the face of the spherical. I'm not a mechanical or materials engineer but my understanding is the torque spec is designed to put the bolt in a specific tension. If the bolt has some lubrication vs being dry then the applied torque will give more tension. Some of the torque applied goes to friction. Again, not an expert on this and happy to be educated.

For years I didn't bother with it on lug bolts but had to get the paste for my centerlocks. Noticed the recommendation in my Cayman manual so started using it. Probably not a big deal either way on 5 bolts. On the centerlocks the manual makes it sound like you will die if you don't use it properly.
 

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Yep, my manual (2007) calls for Optimoly on threads and on surface between head and cap, which is what I've always done, and will continue to do - see pic below. FWIW, the manual for my torque wrench says that specified torques in general assume a lubricant, so if none is used, you need to increase the torque 10%. I guess that assumes the threads are at least clean and not rusty.

lug bolts.JPG

Also, I always use a 3-4" extension on my 19mm socket to get the breaker bar / torque wrench a little further from the car body to avoid hitting it. Maybe I'm just clumsy.
 

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Roger to Westcoaster,

Buy the wheel hangers from the dealer or M14X1.5 from Reverse Logic (~$10 in Al or ~$16 in SS), they are not that expensive, and get 2!

Buy a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2" torque wrench capable of the required settings

Got a nice 1/2" drive torque wrench at Sears for $60 (range of 20 to 150 ft/lbs) and a deep 19mm socket for $8.

Buy a low profile jack, as mentioned the nose should be around 3-1/2" high when lowered Got a 3.5" one from Sears also for $60, and yes also a pair of wheel chocks.
Total of $160 + tax here in Pa.

:cheers:








Reverse Logic Limite
 
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Not to take this off topic but both my 987.2 and 986 owners manuals clearly describe a light film of Optimoly on the threads and the gap between the bolt head and the spherical collar but not on the face of the spherical. I'm not a mechanical or materials engineer but my understanding is the torque spec is designed to put the bolt in a specific tension. If the bolt has some lubrication vs being dry then the applied torque will give more tension. Some of the torque applied goes to friction. Again, not an expert on this and happy to be educated.

For years I didn't bother with it on lug bolts but had to get the paste for my centerlocks. Noticed the recommendation in my Cayman manual so started using it. Probably not a big deal either way on 5 bolts. On the centerlocks the manual makes it sound like you will die if you don't use it properly.
You are correct. What I get for going by memory. The owners manual specifies Optimoly TA on the threads and between the bolt head and collar. The spherical face of the collar which contacts the wheel is left dry. This is from the 2007 987C manual I happened to have handy. Torque is 130 Nm or 96 ft-lb. This might be different for the 981.

You are also correct on what the bolt torque is actually intended to achieve and the effect on the tensile load of dry vs lubed threads. This is why it matters on following dry vs lubed instructions. If the designer assumes the friction for dry threads in calculating torque to achieve the desired tensile load in the bolt and you reduce this friction by lubing the bolts the result is higher than design load on the bolt. The opposite is also true. Dry threads when they're intended to be lubed results in lower than intended load on the bolt. All for the same torque.

I don't know about die on the center locks if you don't use Optimoly but I think the current procedure was the result of a wheel or two coming off. Kind of thing to add more excitement than you'd like on a grocery run.
 

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You are correct. What I get for going by memory. The owners manual specifies Optimoly TA on the threads and between the bolt head and collar. The spherical face of the collar which contacts the wheel is left dry. This is from the 2007 987C manual I happened to have handy. Torque is 130 Nm or 96 ft-lb. This might be different for the 981.

You are also correct on what the bolt torque is actually intended to achieve and the effect on the tensile load of dry vs lubed threads. This is why it matters on following dry vs lubed instructions. If the designer assumes the friction for dry threads in calculating torque to achieve the desired tensile load in the bolt and you reduce this friction by lubing the bolts the result is higher than design load on the bolt. The opposite is also true. Dry threads when they're intended to be lubed results in lower than intended load on the bolt. All for the same torque.

I don't know about die on the center locks if you don't use Optimoly but I think the current procedure was the result of a wheel or two coming off. Kind of thing to add more excitement than you'd like on a grocery run.
Yes it is: Wheel Bolts - 118 ft-lb. / 160 Nm These are easily identified as they are now black as opposed to silver in colour.
 

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Yes it is: Wheel Bolts - 118 ft-lb. / 160 Nm These are easily identified as they are now black as opposed to silver in colour.
I think the torque spec changed to 118 ft-lb in the 987.2. At least my Cayman R has this spec. Also has black bolts.
 

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Guess I missed that discussion. It is recommended in the owners manual for my Cayman R, also my 986 Bentley manual.
You are correct. I misread your post & corrected my response. That's what I get for a quick scan on my iPhone :-(


Dan
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