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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
HELP! Where Does this vacuum line plug into???? And can I still drive?

As I was doing the IPD competition plenum install. I was removing the small vacuum line that connects to the vacuum motor and instead of the head coming out of the vacuum motor, I managed to remove the other end that connects somewhere in the abyss of our engine!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

See step 9 in this article

http://sb4.shread.net/cayman/IPD Cayman Plenum installation instructions.pdf

It is the same line that this person in the picture below the step is holding except my other end came loose and the one end is still connected to the vacuum motor.

Here is me holding the line that came loose from its orgin.



Am I totally screwed? Is the car not able to be driven now?

I know the new IPD comp. plenum doesn't even use this vacuum line anymore. but it says that I still need to plug it up, but now I obviously can't! Please help!

Update:

Everything else on the install went well.

 

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Re: HELP! Where Does this vacuum line plug into???? And can I still drive?

I hope this helps!

-Moto

BillC said:
Here's a tip for the plenum install:

Instead of cutting the vacuum hose going to the canister on the stock manifold, it's much easier to remove the other end of the vacuum line from the solenoid and then just put a vacuum cap on the solenoid nipple. This way, it'll be much easier to go back to stock, if you ever need to.

The solenoid is located on the right intake manifold, in between the runners for the front and middle cylinders. It's basically clipped to a plastic bridge between the runners. Lightly pry the hook on the bottom of the clip out from the bridge with the tip of your finger, and then the solenoid will slide right up. Then, it's pretty simple to pull the hose from the solenoid, install a vacuum cap (I used 5/32", and it fit nicely) and then just slide the solenoid back into place. Very quick and easy, and no cutting required.
 

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Re: HELP! Where Does this vacuum line plug into???? And can I still drive?

This is NOT a problem. Look in articles. Bill posted pictures. Actually the way you removed it is better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok guys, problem fixed! I simply removed the solenoid between the first and middle runner. Plugged the line back in and then re-installed the solenoid. WHew!

Now on to the underdrive pulley....
 

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Interesting. Soooo...not having one on one side would do or cause what??? Vacuum leak, rough idle?? Car has the stock plenum, just fyi.

When I had the plenum off, cleaning TB, etc. I only saw one big butterfly in the stock plenum...am I missing something. I've got a rough idle at warm up, but then the car runs perfect after it's warm. When I say rough, I mean rougher than normal and seems to stumble around more than a typical warm up cycle.
 

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Ah, ok. Misread the original question. Sorry. As I recall the vacuum is supplied by a pump located on the front of the drivers side cylinder head. Presumably driven by a camshaft. So if the line to the missing valve isn't plugged it would create a vacuum leak but shouldn't create the usual symptoms. If only one of the butterfly's is opening I'd expect maybe a small loss of top end power. I think they open around 3500 rpm. Not sure how noticeable this would be. I'm assuming that 2006 and 2008 are the same.

This is speculation. I believe both plenum valves open at the same time. It might be possible that vacuum was routed to the one valve you have and the Y'd off to each plenum butterfly. I recall seeing a vacuum line routing sticker on my car, either on the engine cover or on the hood. It might confirm this or show what you should have. Also if a valve is missing there should be an electrical connector dangling nearby.

Otherwise I'd suggest chasing the lines from each plenum butterfly valve vacuum motor and see how they're connected if they're connected.

I think this vacuum pump also feeds the brake booster. Never traced the line all the way but there was a tube of the right size running forward if I remember correctly from the Capristo install.

Out of curiosity what started the troubleshooting?
 

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Uhhhgh...sorry. I was looking at what I think is the knock sensor on ONE side and was going of memory. I do indeed have the the change-overs valve switches on both sides. Just trying to figure out a rough idle on cold starts. Car runs awesome otherwise once it's warm. All the regular things have been addressed...plugs, coils, etc. Just sounds like something is not switching over correctly on that warm up cycle as the idle kicks down, making it run rough until you drive away in it. I do know these things can just be inherent issues as the cars age.

I did unscrew the oil filler cap after start up and it definitely effected the idle, so it sounds like vacuum leak is not the issue.
 

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I think the sensor on the passenger side intake manifold is the engine compartment air temp sensor.

Have you tried getting a fault code download? Trying to sort out which bit is unhappy with the world just by symptoms on these rolling computers makes grey hair fast. Maybe just a bad sensor. Fault codes at least give a place to start. It's when that comes up dry that you have to go down the rabbit hole.

My guess is the mixture is getting leaned out to soon. Maybe a MAF sensor or water temp sensor. But that's just a guess.
 

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Hi,

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but does anyone know which actuator is connected to which butterfly.
. On my car the actuator on the right bank of the engine (when standing behind the car) is connected to the butterfly valve on the plenum and the one on the left bank is connected to the resonance tube butterfly. Is that correct? (seems counterintuitive to me, but what do I know. :) )

Does it ultimately matter? Do both open and close at the same time.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thank you.
Sorry, after rereading the thread, I see the plenum to the right bank appears to be the correct layout. 😊
 
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