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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

First, I did a lot of research on this, and while helpful, I was hoping for more up to date info. For the advanced DE and or TA, TT guys/gals out there, what is your recommended pad/rotor based on experience

Use case - Lots of experience on this end, (usually not on race pace for a given track, usually around 5-10 seconds off) not new to track driving, new to this car on track. Car is track car only, not a daily driver.

Do not like grabby pads, consistency and relatively easy on rotors. I am not racing, just having fun, don't want to have a pad that wears very quickly or wears rotors very quickly (yes I know that is subjective, I get that). Spoke to a few vendors and get advice on pads that is (just guessing) biased to product they sell.

Rotors - Are factory rotors, with right fluid, new pads effective to prevent brake fade due to heat soak? Driving out west.

So far, thinking Pagid or PF for pads, however just starting my research. Heard RS29/RS14 was the hot ticket, also heard PF 08 is good. As far as rotors... uhh, everywhere from you need Griodisk two piece to stock...help please:)!



Thanks
 

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You are no doubt going to get a wide range of replies to this post, so here's my take on it. I use OE spec Pagid rotors and pads, Motul 600 fluid, Goodridge braided lines and 997 GT3 front brake ducts. This set-up has seen me do up to ten laps of Silverstone GP circuit at around 9/10ths and without any fade or overheating. I have also used this set-up at shorter tracks where more braking is required but from lower speeds than at Silverstone and with the same results.
 

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You will only get a repeat of what you already found out. There is no magical No.1 answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You will only get a repeat of what you already found out. There is no magical No.1 answer.
I wasn't expecting a magical answer, just some real world advice. I get not one size fits all. Been doing this for 20 years, raced karts...etc, etc, etc.... I get it. Looking for a short list so I can buy the right stuff and not waste money and time. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #11
You are no doubt going to get a wide range of replies to this post, so here's my take on it. I use OE spec Pagid rotors and pads, Motul 600 fluid, Goodridge braided lines and 997 GT3 front brake ducts. This set-up has seen me do up to ten laps of Silverstone GP circuit at around 9/10ths and without any fade or overheating. I have also used this set-up at shorter tracks where more braking is required but from lower speeds than at Silverstone and with the same results.
Thanks, really very helpful! I am trying to determine if OE style Rotors will meet the need for now. I know that there are 340MM rotor kits, but my guess is, until I go to slicks and a racing setup, I will be fine based on what you have noted!!

Best!
 

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Sebro Slotted stock size rotors, PF 08 pads, Motul 600 fluid, Olsen Motorsports front ducts, Modified TT rear ducts. 122 track days in instructor run group.
 

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+1 on the Sebro slotted rotors at the front. In my experience, you can continue to use the OEM "drilled" rotors at the rear, but they crack too easily in the front. The conventional wisdom is that when the cracks start running hole to hole, throw them away.

I like Pagid RS-14 blacks front and rear. The only negative to me is that the price is such that you will be more concerned with pad wear than rotor wear. I have also found that the RS-14 compound seems to be compatible with the OEM Textar pads, so you can swap them in and out without any odd vibrations or other ill effects. Strangely, the RS-14's are very grippy when cold but also have the highest temperature rating of any of the Pagid offerings from what I remember.

Kippis

:cheers:
 

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Pagid RS29 front and rear - great wear, progressive and not grabby. RS14 in rear are fine, but no need and they create additional heat when the nannies kick in. No need for new rotors until yours are gone. Really. We raced on stock rotors for years before there was a slotted alternative. Don't waste your money until the stock rotors are toast.

Also, good fluid is a must generally, but really not needed for your first event at Willow (very easy on brakes). In fact, you can probably run with the stock setup (pads, rotors, fluid) for this first event and be fine. Spend your time and money on control arms to improve camber. This will save you from wasting a set of tires (Willow is hard on tires).

Cheers,
 

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I'm rolling this season with PFC08 F&R, Giro front rotors, Sebro slotted rears, GT3 MC, stainless lines and Motul 660.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pagid RS29 front and rear - great wear, progressive and not grabby. RS14 in rear are fine, but no need and they create additional heat when the nannies kick in. No need for new rotors until yours are gone. Really. We raced on stock rotors for years before there was a slotted alternative. Don't waste your money until the stock rotors are toast.

Also, good fluid is a must generally, but really not needed for your first event at Willow (very easy on brakes). In fact, you can probably run with the stock setup (pads, rotors, fluid) for this first event and be fine. Spend your time and money on control arms to improve camber. This will save you from wasting a set of tires (Willow is hard on tires).

Cheers,
Awesome feedback! Will most likely get the Gt3 arms prior to first event on track and some RBF600 or 660.
 

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Sebro slotted front & rear (when your stock cross-drilled ones are done), PFC 08 or Pagid RS29 (I prefer PFC but have a stash of Pagids I need to use up 1st). LCAs for front are a must.
 
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I put on Endless ME20 pads with Motul 660 fluid and took the car out on the track the first time....brakes disappeared on me after 15 minutes into the 2nd session. Scared the hell out of me because I've never had that happen. So I decided to add the GT3 master brake cylinder, SS lines, the larger slotted GyroDiscs, and GT3/997 Turbo brake ducts. After that, the brakes felt like they did in my RS and were confidence inspiring.
 

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front and rear ducts do help a lot.
 
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