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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I'm the proud owner of my 2nd Porsche in all of my 25 years of driving. My first was an 85 944 (bit of a turd) and the newest is a 2006 Porsche Cayman S. I'm a bit of a risk taker (raced motocycles on Isle of Man last year) and basically put a deposit on the car sight unseen. I've been looking for an inexpensive Cayman S for about a year though now and I finally found one at a dealer in Florida. I flew out there, checked it out (it was mint) and drove it, then drove it back to Dallas w/out issue....well almost. Somewhere on i10 I was really getting on it and noticed a huge puff of white smoke. A quick call and some research pointed in the direction of the AOS. I then ordered an OEM replacement and was able to install myself. For about 10 miles the car did great, idle smoothed out, noticeably better power, and then poof. The car started spitting out smoke non stop like a freight train and wouldn't stop. I then pulled the new AOS off and noticed it was dripping oil. I re-installed the old one and the smoking stopped. I just took it to a local shop and told them to do a new AOS, plugs, and an oil change.

Couple of questions:

1) What are the chances that a new AOS would catastrophically fail w/in 20 miles? Could there be something causing this?

2) I noticed 4 notches in the top of the roof for a rack. Any idea where the cheapest place to buy one of these is for a bike and skis?

Thanks in advance,
Craig
 

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First of all welcome Craig to the forum.

Second of all, I'm sorry because the first point could be the only good news for you.

It's very likely you have a bigger problem than an AOS, and no it wasn't caused by the new AOS. I hate to be the one who tells the bad news especially since I could be wrong.

I'm sure others will chime in momentarily.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well thanks for the welcome Hass....so far I'll have to say your reply reminds me of why I tend to stay away from Int forums.

If you've read my post in detail (and understand exactly what it meant) I'd love to hear your online "diagnosis".

However, the Porsche shop that works on these still believes it to be related to the AOS;)
 

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It's good to see another Cayman owner in the Metroplex. I'm sorry to hear of your troubles Craig. Did you notice any loss of power either time it let out white smoke? How many miles on your car? Which shop did you take it to?
 

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Before you get too excited and spend money needlessly, check the oil level to be sure it is not overfilled. I ran my 993 and both my 2006 Caymans at one bar down, including many track days, without any issues and without smoke. An overfill can cause smoking.

Re: roof racks. You can buy the Porsche roof rack which is periodically found on this site or on eBay used for about $250-$300. Alternatively, the Yakima roof rack has been reported to be a perfect fit, although I have no personal knowledge. Either rack will support a bicycle or ski attachment.




Dan
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies guys!

I read somewhere about running the oil a bar low...I might try that and thanks for the rack info.

This Cayman never lost power, I see no evidence of blow by, has 55k on it and I took it Fifth Gear Automotive in Lewisville. Some friends of mine own that place.
 

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Welcome Craig.

The Yakima rack fits perfectly on the Cayman. Beware the roof rack is a two person install or you will chip the roof paint. Ask me how I know.

Your shop ought to do a compression test and a bore scoping while they have the plugs out.

Rob
 

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Welcome and wishing you best with outcome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys....I was just curious if anyone had this specific issue. There's a lot of detail on there so I'm sure its kinda boring to read but just to reiterate:

W/ the old AOS....2 puffs of smoke at high RPM over 1200 miles
W/ the new AOS...10 miles of bliss followed by non-stop freight train smoke
W/ the old AOS reinstalled...no smoke on the 25 mile trip to the shop

So...there's no blow by or any issue of the engine losing power. I mean I'm not auto mechanic but that tell me right there that this isn't related to something internal to the engine.

Oh well...its out of my hands and I'll let you guys know the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Well I just got a call from the shop. It turns out the Porsche had over a quart too much oil in it which was causing the smoke. For whatever reason it wasn't as bad with the first AOS as it was with the 2nd AOS and the amount of oil spewed into the 2nd AOS was enough to ruin it. I would have figured this out earlier if this car had dip stick but the computerized oil measuring thing never said it was over-filled....just said it was full.

So to Dan and everyone else that replied using their brain much thanks! To the first guy who replied.... Easy on the keyboard there turbo and make sure you know what you're talking about before you reply;)

Now I just need to get this thing to make a little more noise.
 

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dfwracer, the oil is full when all but the very top segment is filled in. Each segment represents 0.4 quarts, and is very sensitive to the car being level. Also, may I suggest you use Joe Gibbs DT40 for street use and Joe Gibbs XP9 for track use (no affiliation). Also, glad to hear you have a relatively easy solution to the issue. Seeing smoke can be anxiety inducing. Hope to see you at some autocrosses and the track this year.
 

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So to Dan and everyone else that replied using their brain much thanks! To the first guy who replied.... Easy on the keyboard there turbo and make sure you know what you're talking about before you reply;)
First of all CONGRATULATIONS... by all means I'm happy for you.

Second of all, reference to this first guy who didn't use his brain:
1) he lost his 987 engine as you described therefore he panicked.
2) the old AOS vs the new AOS didn't make sense to him as you still fail to make sense of them therefore he panicked.
3) he saw it was your first post here, therefore he forwarded your thread via email to technical members to jump in and help you.
4) he's a passionate guy more than a rational one, therefore he cared much and is still happy for your happy ending despite what you wrote above.

Looking forward to read your future happy reviews with your toy and mods... Welcome to P9 and I apologize if I got you to freak out.
 

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Re: roof racks. You can buy the Porsche roof rack which is periodically found on this site or on eBay used for about $250-$300. Alternatively, the Yakima roof rack has been reported to be a perfect fit, although I have no personal knowledge. Either rack will support a bicycle or ski attachment.




Dan
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
On the subject of the racks, how much weight can they hold? I am thinking about a canopy framework that weighs probably 25 pounds for the Petit Lemans this year. I want to take my Cayman S to Road Atlanta for that event as I always provide it for the inside flagging station at turn 12 (I am a corner worker) but would not want to overload it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
No worries and I understand he was just trying to help.

As the new owner of this car I just expected the oil to be at the correct level and although I pulled over in Alabama and checked it via the console...it never said over-filled.

You'll definitely be seeing me at Motorsport Ranch on a motorcycle (was actually out there Sunday) but I doubt I'll ever drive a car out on the track...too expensive ;-)
 

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If $185 is too expensive, you bought the wrong car. :p

Apex Driving Academy - Information

Jet:

$185 entry fee is just the primer for what it costs to track cars. You have tires, brakes, mods, engine protection (especially for Gen 1 Caymans) etc. Bikes are cheaper so long as you don't fall and hurt yourself.


I won't do any more track days on bikes because I really don't feel it after two schools and a couple lapping days. I can't "afford" an off at my advanced age. Still ride though and love it.
:cheers:
 

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dfwracer, the oil is full when all but the very top segment is filled in. Each segment represents 0.4 quarts, and is very sensitive to the car being level. Also, may I suggest you use Joe Gibbs DT40 for street use and Joe Gibbs XP9 for track use (no affiliation). Also, glad to hear you have a relatively easy solution to the issue. Seeing smoke can be anxiety inducing. Hope to see you at some autocrosses and the track this year.

Craig and BI:

Agree with B.I. on the Joe Gibbs. It's supposed to be the best lubrication you can use for IMS bearing and the rod bearings that have been known to let go.

Craig: Your decision to stick with motorcycles on track is particularly good for this car you just bought. These early Caymans are terrific street cars but have their challenges for track day use. See the "problems and complaints" area of the forum to get a handle on these issues. I've had to spend fairly big to bulletproof my engine...and it's still not really bullet-proof. I wouldn't track it every weekend. I do 2 or 3 schools per year.

Glad you got the oil problem sorted without spending massive money.

Here are a couple quick tips unique to these cars:

Avoid over-revs!!! The torque above 4500 is flat enough that it doesn't make you go faster to be near red line. Just shift up a gear. Don't risk running over because these engines do not like it and because there's a recorder built into the engine's brain that can't be erased. When you trade the car, over-revs will be inspected.

Joe Gibbs oil can be had from LN Engineering via mail.

The battery is locked in the front trunk. If it's weak, just replace it.

The battery will stay charged longer in a locked car than an unlocked one. If you keep it in the garage, lock it.

You can put a trickle charger on the cigar lighter in the console and still close the door and lock the car. The wire won't break.

If your battery goes dead, there are procedures for getting to it. They aren't really easy, so try to avoid that.

Don't use an tire air compressor on any 12V outlet on the car except the one where the ash try is. The others (there are 2 others) are low amperage for electronics only. Compressor will blow a fuse on those. One is in the console storage compartment (good for a phone charger). The other is in the passenger's footwell near the front of the car.

If you have the Bose & Navigation (PCM) option on your car, the sound of the Bose system can be improved 10 fold by removing the subwoofer and stuffing it with pillow batting from a craft store. There is an article on it on this site. It is the cheapest, best mod I've done to my car...and I've done a lot. It completely removes that cheap boom-box sound and makes all frequencies clearer and better. The components of that thing are generally good except for the sub housing, which is plastic. One of our forum donors is an acoustical engineer and came up with this one. It really, really works.

You can get iPod and hands free in your car with a gadget called "Gateway 5000" if you have the above mentioned Bose. I didn't do the hands free, just use the iPod and it's got better sound than the FM or CD player. Again, look in Articles for instructions etc.

If you have clunking noise in the back, there are fixes. search Trunk Clunk in Articles. I found out my rear latch had come loose on one side and was letting the hatch fit loose enough to move on even small bumps. This changes the air pressure in the car and hurts your ears. Fix it and you'll be quite relieved. There are other things back there too that can be looked at.

Oil level must be checked with the car dead cold on level ground. If it's pointing downhill, it will read higher than it is. If uphill, it will read lower than actual. I check in the morning before I start it. You don't need it topped completely up. Running 2 bars below is OK.

Brake pedal feel can be improved by changing to a GT3 master cylinder, which isn't a terrible job for a good shop....and braided brake lines, which are easy and make a good DIY project. Just mind that you don't inject any air into the system by pumping brakes with the reservoir too low. The improved brake feel will reward you every time you drive the car, not strictly a race track improvement. I was kinda shocked at how mushy my brake pedal felt. It's way better now!

These cars are OK to drive in winter. They rust protection is just astounding to me. The bottom of the car is covered in plastic panels and the metal pieces that aren't painted are triple galvanized. Really nicely screwed together, these cars. I'm on my 5th winter season with mine and there is zero corrosion under the car except brake discs, which rust just from the car wash.

I love my Michelin Pilot Super Sports with 18" wheels. They ride good, stick well are quiet etc etc. Tread wear is even good with these things.

I buy used winter tires (Pirelli both times, it turns out. I like them but most brands are good if they're sport winters) for my car on P-9 classifieds. I'm on my 2nd set beginning this season.

There's way more but if you're just street driving the thing, you probably will be good for a year or two with just the stuff I've told you. There are 200 ways to mod these cars. It's all here and all I can say is, read up before you lay money down. There is a lot of collected wisdom on this site. You seem like a car-smart guy. I thought I was too, but there are peculiarities, both good and bad, with these cars that are good to know about. Have fun!!!

:cheers:
 
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Well I'm the proud owner of my 2nd Porsche in all of my 25 years of driving. My first was an 85 944 (bit of a turd) and the newest is a 2006 Porsche Cayman S. I'm a bit of a risk taker (raced motocycles on Isle of Man last year) and basically put a deposit on the car sight unseen. I've been looking for an inexpensive Cayman S for about a year though now and I finally found one at a dealer in Florida. I flew out there, checked it out (it was mint) and drove it, then drove it back to Dallas w/out issue....well almost. Somewhere on i10 I was really getting on it and noticed a huge puff of white smoke. A quick call and some research pointed in the direction of the AOS. I then ordered an OEM replacement and was able to install myself. For about 10 miles the car did great, idle smoothed out, noticeably better power, and then poof. The car started spitting out smoke non stop like a freight train and wouldn't stop. I then pulled the new AOS off and noticed it was dripping oil. I re-installed the old one and the smoking stopped. I just took it to a local shop and told them to do a new AOS, plugs, and an oil change.

Couple of questions:

1) What are the chances that a new AOS would catastrophically fail w/in 20 miles? Could there be something causing this?

2) I noticed 4 notches in the top of the roof for a rack. Any idea where the cheapest place to buy one of these is for a bike and skis?

Thanks in advance,
Craig
A bit of a risk taker? Isle of Man has to be the ultimate risk on a motorcycle, except for some road races (Singapore?) that are done on closed city road courses, like the F1 race in Monaco. Wait, Isle of Man also has mass start races too, which looks crazy.

I've raced bikes a couiple of time, but I was slow and tended to crash. I can't imagine putting a knee down while my head was inches away from a stone fence or a hedgerow on the inside of a corner. I bow down to you
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well it's not the $185 part...its really just tracking a car in general that I can't afford. All my money is spent on motorcycle racing.

I've been hurt a fair amount w/ bikes and its certainly taken its toll on my body..... I totally understand about sticking to a car if that's what you enjoy!

Roger that on the list of things to look for and thank you. It does have Nav but no Bose. The only thing I'm noticing is the clanking noise in the hatch so I'll look into that. Funny you mention the rev counter. My buddy found me a Cayman at auction last year with 20k on it. It was a lease and he got a smoking deal. On the drive home he noticed the brakes were done and the motor had a horrible vibration. Upon taking it to the shop he discovered the real mileage was around 180k and it had hit the rev limiter like 1500 times. Needless to say I passed on that one.

I've been racing bikes for 15 years, been all over the country, done the Daytona 200 a few times....but nothing prepared me for the Isle of Man. It was the most stressful 2 weeks of my life (3 racers died during practice and the races) but it was an amazing experience. Its so difficult for an American who's training has been closed courses because its a completely different type of racing....nevermind the fact that I'd never actually seen the course in person until I got there. Overall I enjoyed it and have my entry approved to do the TT this year...if all goes well with work we'll see. Oh...the race is based on time trials so its not a free for all start.

So far I'm really loving this car. I have a truck for motorcycle related stuff and just sold a 350z to buy this Cayman. My only real complaint is left part of the console destroys my right knee if I'm driving it for very long because it really digs in there. Not really sure what I can do about that.
 

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On the subject of the racks, how much weight can they hold? I am thinking about a canopy framework that weighs probably 25 pounds for the Petit Lemans this year. I want to take my Cayman S to Road Atlanta for that event as I always provide it for the inside flagging station at turn 12 (I am a corner worker) but would not want to overload it.
The manual for my '08 Cayman S says the roof transport system maximum payload is 132 lbs or 60 Kg.
 
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