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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are a ton of good looking wheels out there and I'd have a tough time choosing if my choice were based on looks alone. I'd like to have a lightweight wheel as well.

That being the case, I'm not much better off because I don't really have a good idea of whether there's really much difference between wheel models and manufacturers. Other than HRE Carbon Fibre wheels (can't really afford $11,000 for a set of wheels), I can't see that there's much of a difference. They all seem to be in the 25 to 30 lb / wheel range.

Does anyone know of a good lightweight wheel out there for a reasonable cost?
 

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There are some wheels in the 18lb range in 18" sizes. Most are single-piece forged, like Rays, Champion, and BBS makes one in this weight range, but I think it uses a cast process. Fikse 3-piece wheels are in the 19-20lb range for 18" sizes, but the company has just changed hands, and I've read about some availability issues. I'd talk to the Wheel Enhancement folks.
 

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You didn't say what diameter you want. Keeping price in mind. Ditto on the Rays (Volk) wheels. Tire Rack recently had these on sale for around $2,300 (must call). The OZ Alleggerita HLT in 18" are a quality cast wheel for around $1600. I purchased a set of forged Kinesis F 110's from Wheel Enhancement in 19"s on sale for around $3200. All of the above are lightweight. 18-20 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We have some limited Fikse stock on hand right now and builds in the pipeline available very shortly....
Cheers
Yes, I recall from one of the threads in this section you'd mentioned you would have some new wheels.

Can you PM me regarding the Fiske's and give me an idea of what's in the pipeline?
 

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I've owned CCW, Champion, Victor and a set of Tire Rack TR2 wheels. Both Champion & CCW make quality wheels for a decent price. I really like the CCW C10 on my GT3 for the price. I had a set of RS98's that I got in the group buy here on the site, since sold them but WOW really good looking wheels.

BBS and HRE have a loyal following but be prepared to pay $$$$
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
You didn't say what diameter you want.
Probably 18" since as far as I understand there's really no performance benefit to 19" rims. Plus, 19" rims are generally heavier than 18s.

BTW, thanks guys! This is exactly the kind of feedback I'm looking for. I will discuss options with whomever I buy the rims from but this is all good info.
 

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Probably 18" since as far as I understand there's really no performance benefit to 19" rims. Plus, 19" rims are generally heavier than 18s.

BTW, thanks guys! This is exactly the kind of feedback I'm looking for. I will discuss options with whomever I buy the rims from but this is all good info.
I have to second the OZ allegeritta wheels @ tirerack.com. 17 - 19lbs each in 18" sizes, many colors and 2 different sets of widths available.

very good looking wheel.
 

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Actually 19 inch Kinesis F110 made by Champion is lighter than 18 inch set-up when you use N-rated tires in standard sizes 235/35R19 fronts and 265/35R19 rears. Because 19 inch N-rated tires are actually lighter than 18 inch counterparts. I just got myself a set from wheel enhancements, a sponsor at this site.

Was going for the 18" Forgestars F14 but preferred the 19 inch looks, only Forgestar's 19 inch weren't that light, but their 18 inch ones would be what I'd go for if I were to go for 18 inch. OZ are light too, but they're cast, so arguably not as strong/rigid as flow-formed or forged. Champion RG5 18 inch wheels aren't as light as Forgestar's flow-formed but definitely stronger cause its Forged. So Kinesis F110 19 inch it is for me, and its strong one piece 8000 lbs forged. Weight was 18 lbs 12 oz for the 8.5x19" Fronts and 19 lbs 8 oz for the 10x19" Rears. Slightly lighter than Champion's RS98 in 19 inch, but certainly not as light as the Carbon Fiber wheels like Oakley Designs. I saved about 16 pounds from the stock 18" Cayman S II wheels and tires that came with the car and went up a size to 19 inch. Remember, every pound saved from a rotational weight is equivalent to 6 to 8 times in static weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Actually 19 inch Kinesis F110 made by Champion is lighter than 18 inch set-up when you use N-rated tires in standard sizes 235/35R19 fronts and 265/35R19 rears.

[...]

Weight was 18 lbs 12 oz for the 8.5x19" Fronts and 19 lbs 8 oz for the 10x19" Rears. Slightly lighter than Champion's RS98 in 19 inch, but certainly not as light as the Carbon Fiber wheels like Oakley Designs. I saved about 16 pounds from the stock 18" Cayman S II wheels and tires that came with the car and went up a size to 19 inch. Remember, every pound saved from a rotational weight is equivalent to 6 to 8 times in static weight.
Good info! Thanks. If I can go lighter with 19s & lower profile tires, then I'm in.

I'd always thought (admitedly without much reflection or research) that the reduced tire size would always be more than offset by the weight of added wheel material.

BTW, the wheels look great on your car! Very nice.
 

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+1 on everything vrecaro said. That is why I chose the F110s also. Only a few sets left at Wheel Enhancement.
 

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Probably 18" since as far as I understand there's really no performance benefit to 19" rims. Plus, 19" rims are generally heavier than 18s.

BTW, thanks guys! This is exactly the kind of feedback I'm looking for. I will discuss options with whomever I buy the rims from but this is all good info.
Kerry:

Said it before and I'll say it again. 18's are easier on the car and your tush on the rotten streets most of us have to drive on. The right 18" wheel will look very cool on your car and won't present much of a sacrifice in looks. When you have to walk up and read the sidewalls to tell, it's not important.

There is a slight performance advantage to 19s on smooth roads, but it's very slight. On the other kind, 19's can slow you down because the tire leave the ground more. The reason you want low wheel and tire weight is because the suspension can recover faster from bumps...also there is less flywheel effect to hamper acceleration and braking fast.

19's theoretically don't roll over quite as much in the corners. When you're talking 40 series to 35 series sidewalls, both are pretty low profile and great at not rolling over in turns, so the difference is not a lot. 19s will have a little more direct feel on turn-in How that translates to actual lap times and such is really anyone's guess. We know that there is a German engineer somewhere in the Faterland that thinks 19's are good for a few seconds a lap on the Nurburgring...but he could be wrong...or a better 18" tire might make even more difference.

While 19" wheels are slightly heavier, the tires are generally a little lighter, so it's almost a wash on lightweight wheels. 19" tires are more expensive and there are many fewer choices in 19" sizes. For track use, 18s are the way most people go because the tire cost really can add up with short tire life of track tires. The desire for more tire choices is also a big plus for the track.

If you live in a place with no winters, no frost heaves, no potholes etc and have a good road system, 19's make some sense, but the rest of us are going to pay a bigger price for our 19" setups. Biggest difference between 19 and 18 is ride comfort. I still have my 18" winters on my car. The change to 19s is coming soon and I'm not sure I'm looking forward to that. Our roads are pathetic and our state is broke.
 

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As Vrecaro as said, the Forgestar F14s in 18x8.5 coming in at under 18lbs, 17.6 to be exact (will vary depending on offset). That is extremely light anyway you put it and extremely cheap considering we sell them for 1199 a set.

If you want additional rigidity, which is important in a track/street wheel, I would recommend going with Iforged's 1 piece track edition wheels. They are affordable considering they are forged and slightly heavier than its flowformed counterpart but will provide added rigidity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
[...]

There is a slight performance advantage to 19s on smooth roads, but it's very slight. On the other kind, 19's can slow you down because the tire leave the ground more. The reason you want low wheel and tire weight is because the suspension can recover faster from bumps...also there is less flywheel effect to hamper acceleration and braking fast.

[...]

If you live in a place with no winters, no frost heaves, no potholes etc and have a good road system, 19's make some sense, but the rest of us are going to pay a bigger price for our 19" setups. Biggest difference between 19 and 18 is ride comfort. I still have my 18" winters on my car. The change to 19s is coming soon and I'm not sure I'm looking forward to that. Our roads are pathetic and our state is broke.
We're fairly lucky on the West Coast, in that our roads generally do deteriorate but not nearly as badly as through the Rockies, the Prairies, and the East Coast (southern states excepted). We consider it hellishly cold when it dips to minus double digits (celsius), which happens for maybe one or two days a year.

But I'll take that advice under advisement. I'll be lowering the car a bit using new springs as well.
 

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Kerry -
I just noticed that you have an '04 Boxster S. You should know that the target tire diameter for '97-'04 Boxsters is 25", but in '05, they increased the tire diameters to 25.4" front/26.3" rear (and increased both the width and opening size of the wheelwells). This is when you start to see Porsche spec'ing 19" wheels on their cars.

So it's a lot easier for the Cayman guys to fit wide 19"s on the back, because their cars are designed for rear tires with a 26.3" diameter. (Not coincidentally, an 18" wheel with a 25" diameter tire will have the same size sidewall as a 19" wheel with a 26" diameter tire).

So unless you can find 19" tires with closer to a 25" diameter, I think you will run into fit problems, especially if you are going to lower the car (I can barely fit a 265/40-18 Cayman street tire [which is 26.3"] on the back of my '01S, and it rubs on big bumps). Increasing the diameter on the fronts is likely to cause interference with the lower spring perches (unless you have aftermarket coilovers), as well as increasing the possibility that the outside front edge of the tire will rub the wheel well liner before you reach full steering lock. Also, increasing the diameter of the rear tires will have the effect of raising (numerically lowering) your gearing. Good for gas mileage, not so good for acceleration.

Also, '97-'04 Boxsters ABS systems expect front and rear tires which are close to the same diameter (they changed the programming in '05 to account for the different tire diameters). (This probably isn't a huge deal so long as you keep the difference in diameters less than 1"). FYI.
 

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Another good thread. A pleasure to be associated with you guys. I actually agree with everything said above. Lightening makes a good point about the 986 chassis using smaller OD tires. I've had both, with aftermarket wheels. I love my 19s, here in the south on good roads, but on a 986 I wouldn't exceed 18". You also can't go 11" wide on the rear of 986s. (8.5 and 10.0 works well). I agree OZ makes some very good value lightweight wheels. Above that, I like Volk and Champion one-piece. I am not too familiar with Forgestar, but the numbers above sound very good. Good luck and Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I just noticed that you have an '04 Boxster S. You should know that the target tire diameter for '97-'04 Boxsters is 25", but in '05, they increased the tire diameters to 25.4" front/26.3" rear (and increased both the width and opening size of the wheelwells). This is when you start to see Porsche spec'ing 19" wheels on their cars.
Great info! Being new to Boxsters and Porsches in general, I didn't know that.
 

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Kerry:
......
If you live in a place with no winters, no frost heaves, no potholes etc and have a good road system, 19's make some sense......
Why would you live anywhere else? :) :cheers:

I know how much a wheel flexes will depend on its construction but always wondered if we're talking nanometres or millimetres of flex.
We're talking a few millimeters (bumps etc.). Tires, on the other hand, flex a lot more. Everything on the car flexes under load. Most quality wheels are okay in terms of flex. If the load breaks the wheel - that is a bigger concern. But, then again, most wheels are tested to a reasonable standard (TUV, JWL, etc.) - which results in wheels made from weaker materials necessarily getting heavier to lower the unit stresses. Flex becomes a bigger consideration for a serious racing car - along with everything else.
 
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