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First post here...great forum btw. Like others before, I'm looking for some pre-purchase advice and have read at length many of the other posts and buying guide sticky. Considering in order a Cayman in 987.1 S, 981 Base, or possibly even 718 Base forms, all manual. Car would really be a second weekend car with no track use anticipated. For reference, I currently drive a Macan S and previously have owned a 987 Boxster S and 981 Cayman S. I recently drove a 987.1 S and really think this is what I am leaning toward. Just enough of an old school feel and a blast to drive without the possibility of jail time.

My question, given the possible engine issues with the 987.1 S, would you consider a sight unseen car with of course a PPI and clean car fax. The reason I ask is I see some excellent (cosmetically anyway) possibilities on the West Coast. There are some advantages in my mind to a California car, but obviously more difficult to check out as I am on the East Coast.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 

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I think CarFax's are unreliable, and a PPI only tells you part of the car's story. The older the Porsche, the more importance I'd place on maintenance records. I'd be less comfortable buying an older car from a non-Porsche dealer as records will likely be incomplete (although even Porsche dealer may not have records); best case scenario is buying a one-owner car from an individual who has complete maintenance history.
 

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A one-owner car with full maintenance records gives you the best peace of mind, but depending on how stringent your other criteria are, this can quickly lead to shopping for unicorns.

The older a car is, the likelier it is to have had multiple owners and therefore a more varied service history. A good PPI is probably the next best thing, and realistically, may be the only viable option. Find an independent recommendation for a shop in the seller's area that specializes in the car you're interested in, and insist the seller arranges for it to be checked out there. This could be either an independent shop (most likely) but could even be a competing dealership - sounds strange but is really not that unheard of.

The benefit of shopping for cars on the West Coast is that there are likely a lot of shops that specialize in Porsches to do a PPI.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I do see a local shop close the seller in the LA area. One of the cars is a one owner, however now at a dealer (non-Porsche). In either case, it may be worth some further investigation.

Related to California cars, any less likelihood of the dreaded cylinder issues with less cold weather operation or is that a total crap shoot?
 

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You might also ask if someone in the area would have a look at it for you. Drive it, take some pictures, etc. Don't skip the PPI though. Locals and/or PCA members could give you recommendations.

And according to Raby, yes cold-weather cars seem to have a greater incidence of engine troubles. I personally think that maintenance and care would have a bigger impact.
 

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Jake Raby, Flat Six Innovations, has a series of videos you can watch regarding bore scoring. The IMS bearing for Caymans is really overblown and oil starvation is only reserved to those who track their car. I live in the Seattle area, so the chance of bore scoring is greater there than lets say Arizona or Southern Calif. Jake also mentions the frequency of oil change should be every 6 months, milage not related. Oil starts to degrade, even in your garage. So, many owners changed at 5000 miles, some at 7500, others at 3500, but very few at 6 months. That is where records come in handy. Some early owners even waited until 15000 miles to change their oil. You can see that early on in the car's life, oil change was an afterthought.

I did buy my car sight unseen from Oliver @ Millenia motors in Florida a few years ago. A clean PPI except for numerous level 1&2 over revs 10 years ago from the report, few Orlando Porsche receipts and a story about the owner's (Disney exc) daily 10 miles round trip drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good to hear someone else took a leap of faith so to speak. I do have some friends in SoCal who may be able to take a look and drive in person, so along with this and a good PPI it may be worth pursuing.

One related question, any idea on cost to transport from West Coast to NC?
 

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I would think around $1100. Try to have it covered if possible. I had road gravel in my radiator intakes from the trip through the Kansas snow. I am sure there were a couple of small rock chips, although I looked carefully on delivery as the car was pretty dirty and did not find any.
 

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I bought 2 cars long distance one from a private seller, and one from a Porsche Dealer, both times great luck, I had a PPI +a walk around the car with Facetime, both cars where about 5 years old and under 15,000 miles, both cars 1-owner with records, the sale was with a deposit refundable if car is misrepresented in any way, it does feel strange flying 1,000 miles knowing you could ultimately have to walk away.
 

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First post here...great forum btw. Like others before, I'm looking for some pre-purchase advice and have read at length many of the other posts and buying guide sticky. Considering in order a Cayman in 987.1 S, 981 Base, or possibly even 718 Base forms, all manual. Car would really be a second weekend car with no track use anticipated. For reference, I currently drive a Macan S and previously have owned a 987 Boxster S and 981 Cayman S. I recently drove a 987.1 S and really think this is what I am leaning toward. Just enough of an old school feel and a blast to drive without the possibility of jail time.

My question, given the possible engine issues with the 987.1 S, would you consider a sight unseen car with of course a PPI and clean car fax. The reason I ask is I see some excellent (cosmetically anyway) possibilities on the West Coast. There are some advantages in my mind to a California car, but obviously more difficult to check out as I am on the East Coast.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
Patience you will find what you are looking for by being patient ! Lots of 987.1 gen cars around ! I would prefer a 987.2 variants as they don’t have any IMS issues albeit you will pay more as they are much less. 09/12 cars. Check out Rennlist as they have P Cars for sale of that gen. honestly- be patient... had you wanted a 993 or something rarer I could understand your impatience but there are many 987 gen 1 cars ...
 

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Agree 987.2
get PPI at a Porsche dealer
I had mine done at a local Indy shop and got CEL's shortly after it arrived - had to replace cats & sensors
as for transport; you'll never get a major carrier for $1100 more like $2500. Using a shipping broker is a crap shoot
you may have no problem with a cheaper shipper - I was lucky not to
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, I don’t rule out the 987.2, but definitely seem to be in shorter supply and a bit of a premium (probably deservedly). Does anyone here have an idea performance wise of a 987.2 base vs 987.1S?
Thanks also for the advice on a long range search. I still don’t rule it out but maybe just need to be patient and limit to the southeast given transport costs and practicalities of seeing in person.
 

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Performance is very close between these two models, torque is the key here. This could be even more in the 987.1 S favor when you add long tube catless headers, 82 mm throttle body/Plenum and a ECU flash that helps eliminate the 4500 RPM sag. The bigger displacement will make a statement. The downside is more risk of bore scoring with a M97 S engine than 9A1Base engine. If tracked then the scale diffentally goes to the 9A1 motor due to much less risk of oil starvation in high G corners. If you can find a good 2009 base with Sports Chrono, PASM and a PDK, then you will have the best of both worlds. Reliability and Performance.
 

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I owned a used car dealership for 10 years, I live in Utah, I was buying cars from the dealer auctions in southern California. The cars typically have low miles, but not low hours, because of idling in California traffic. I bought a Chevrolet Avalanche, the odometer showed around 30,000 miles. The truck also had an hour meter, so I calculated an average speed of 55 mph, it computed to almost 75,000 miles. I'm sure sitting in traffic idling isn't very good for the engine, just something to think about.
 

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Jake Raby, Flat Six Innovations, has a series of videos you can watch regarding bore scoring. The IMS bearing for Caymans is really overblown and oil starvation is only reserved to those who track their car. I live in the Seattle area, so the chance of bore scoring is greater there than lets say Arizona or Southern Calif. Jake also mentions the frequency of oil change should be every 6 months, milage not related. Oil starts to degrade, even in your garage. So, many owners changed at 5000 miles, some at 7500, others at 3500, but very few at 6 months. That is where records come in handy. Some early owners even waited until 15000 miles to change their oil. You can see that early on in the car's life, oil change was an afterthought.

I did buy my car sight unseen from Oliver @ Millenia motors in Florida a few years ago. A clean PPI except for numerous level 1&2 over revs 10 years ago from the report, few Orlando Porsche receipts and a story about the owner's (Disney exc) daily 10 miles round trip drive.
"Oil starts to degrade, even in your garage. " BULLWANGY! If oil doesn't break down in its original container, which it does not, why would it break down sitting in your garage? Answer: it doesn't. Oil breaks down due to high temperatures over time and, or, it gets dirty. Most recycled oil is cleaned and reused. I know this because my bro-in-law was a salesman for a very large industrial petroleum distributor and schooled me. There are plenty of articles on the subject.
 

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Who would you trust to rebuild your motor, most likely Jake over your in-law salesman. He is using statistics from previous rebuilt motors and their oil change history. Seems there is a direct collation between short engine oil fills (recommended) and rebuilds of his work with tardy oil fill timing. I would suggest you get on his web site Flat 6 Innovations, watch the videos, then make up your mind. There is simply too much at risk here with bore scoring, when a solution is available. Believe me, I would not recommend these short fill timing lengths unless there is a good reason. My race oil (Motul v300 Power) over $10.00 per qt and I need 10 qts. Mobil 1 FS brand 0W-40 is less expensive for the winter months.
 

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Jake isn't talking about in the container in your garage but in your engine in your garage. It contaminates from being in the engine - acids, dirt, etc. in the engine affect it. Yes it can be filtered cleaner and the used up additives replaced. It's not that you can't reuse it but you wouldn't want to without your brother-in-law or someone else re=manufacturing as it be.
 
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