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Discussion Starter #1
My main goal is to lower the stance of the car, and for this I feel like lowering springs would be the best option. My car is a 987.1 cayman s with pasm. I was wondering if lowering springs would cause the dampeners to wear out earlier than normal or have any other negative effects? I'm also open to saving up and going for a set of coilovers, but seeing as i mainly daily drive this car with only fun backroad driving and no track days, I'm struggling to justify the price. Anyone have any arguments for the coilovers vs lowering springs? If I do get lowering springs now can I get a different set of dampeners later to go with the springs or would I have to buy a whole new set up? Either way I would like your recommendations for coilovers or lowering springs.
Edit: I would also like to add that I wouldn't mind a stiffer ride, I just can not stand the wheel gap
 

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PASM struts and dampers are coilovers, just non-adjustable. I have heard of people running the Cayman R springs in PASM shocks to lower 10mm.
 

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I second the R springs with your existing PASM shock. You can upgrade the PASM controller as well with a DSC from TPC for much better compression/rebound control, making your system a controllable one. Your ride will be lower, slightly stiffer, and much more controllable with your existing PASM buttons. True coilovers, like Ohlins or JRZ will allow you to set your ride height, change your rake for better f to b balance (removing the inherent understeer) and have a corner balance to equalize turnin and corner response with equal weight transfer for left and right turns.

You can search for lovetoturn's threads on the use of X-73 springs and GT3 swaybars on his existing PASM shocks. He also had the DSC TPC controller on his 981 S. He used this system for at least 3 years without failure of the shocks bodies before upgrading to a GT3 I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the suggestion but for me I don't think a 10m drop is enough the wheel gap would still be too much, so that leaves me with the springs or coilovers, if my goal is only a better ride height what would you guys suggest? It would be an added bonus if it were to improve my handling as well, however I just don't want it to have a negative impact on handling. A stiffer ride is acceptable though. Are lowering springs an acceptable solution or should I just save up for adjustable coilovers?
 

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268563


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Ohlin coilovers - spring rates of 400 lbs/in f and 458 lbs/in r are good enough for me and my use. The corner balance took the drop to about 34 mm on one side and 36 mm on the other. I weigh 200 lbs which is corrected with the corner balance for even cross weight transfer. I also dropped the tail just a little to put more wt on the rear. This works very well with the Wavetrac ATB LDS and wider front tires, for excellent throttle modulation from the apex as well as slalom work.

Different wheel sets really add purpose to the car. The OEM wheels still look attractive for this application. While the Titan 7's look much more racy. The Signature SV 104's look more boulevard.

Check the tire spacing for these 18 inch wheels. All three tire sets are 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r. 40 side walls will add more tire to the wheelwells for your application. I would start with the R springs on the PASM shock bodies and the wheel spacer's first. Then decide on your wheels later.
 

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No, I used Ohlin R&T coilovers as my springs and struts. This setup is more expensive than just changing to the R springs. But, the installation is the same, so I had my shop do the conversion to the Ohlins, saving me the money of having the springs redone later to the Ohlin coilovers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No, I used Ohlin R&T coilovers as my springs and struts. This setup is more expensive than just changing to the R springs. But, the installation is the same, so I had my shop do the conversion to the Ohlins, saving me the money of having the springs redone later to the Ohlin coilovers.
I see, love your stance and wheels btw, what wheels are those? and do you have any budget coilover recommendations 3k is way too much for me when I don't plan on tracking this car. Is buying coilovers second hand a good idea or is that too risky?
 

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One way to look at the underpinnings of the car is to figure out how long you intend to use it before moving on. If you want to use Porsche OEM equipment, then you are relegated to R or PASM springs/shocks. Coilovers will need costly rebuilding at some point. If you know the history of the coilover set, how many years/milage/races/damage etc, then you might get lucky. To some racers, as they move up the ranks, moderate coilovers get discarded for hard core ones, that could be where you might get lucky.

The wheels are Titan 7 TS-5's; 18's, 9 in wide in f and 10 in in the rear. A solid block of Alu that is Forged, then C&C milled creating a lite weight, strong wheel and easy to clean wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One way to look at the underpinnings of the car is to figure out how long you intend to use it before moving on. If you want to use Porsche OEM equipment, then you are relegated to R or PASM springs/shocks. Coilovers will need costly rebuilding at some point. If you know the history of the coilover set, how many years/milage/races/damage etc, then you might get lucky. To some racers, as they move up the ranks, moderate coilovers get discarded for hard core ones, that could be where you might get lucky.

The wheels are Titan 7 TS-5's; 18's, 9 in wide in f and 10 in in the rear. A solid block of Alu that is Forged, then C&C milled creating a lite weight, strong wheel and easy to clean wheel.
I see I guess for now I'll just keep saving up and make a decision down the line since i just had an alignment done and don't feel like immediately paying for another alignment. After looking at a few pictures of cars on R springs I am starting to realize the drop from R springs might be better for drivability and the fact that they are Porsche products does bring some peace of mind. While the H&R/eibach springs do give a better appearance I may be better off with ride height on R springs. Appreciate all the information!
 

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I only know of two vendors that support PASM shock replacements - Bilstein Damptronic B16 and I think TPC Racing makes Tractive DDA (which I think is a Damptronic resprung and revalved)

You can find Damptronics for less than $3k for a set. Tractive DDAs are over $7k.
 

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At that price point Ohlins hands down! We have off the shelf Ohlins like Apex runs as well as our custom sprung and valved Ohlins. If your goal is stance, like other have said, just get some H&R or Eibach or R springs. If you aren't tracking the car seriously the OTS Ohlins are fantastic. If you want no comprimise handling our Ohlins Track Package is what you need.


And of course if you just want the best you can get we have custom Ohlins TTXs :D:


I only know of two vendors that support PASM shock replacements - Bilstein Damptronic B16 and I think TPC Racing makes Tractive DDA (which I think is a Damptronic resprung and revalved)

You can find Damptronics for less than $3k for a set. Tractive DDAs are over $7k.
Titan 7 TS-5, light and STRONG! We do these in 18" or 19".
Porsche Titan 7 T-S5 FORGED SPLIT 5 SPOKE WHEEL





I see, love your stance and wheels btw, what wheels are those? and do you have any budget coilover recommendations 3k is way too much for me when I don't plan on tracking this car. Is buying coilovers second hand a good idea or is that too risky?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If I do go with one of the options that isn't compatible with pasm, do i just do a pasm delete?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yea looks like i'm deciding between the R springs or the H&R springs as I really can't justify coil overs for the pure purpose of getting lower on a car that wont see the track.
 

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I have noticed that H&R springs leave the rear end higher for some reason which changes the balance to slightly oversteer. R springs do not. So, that could be a deciding point. Keep the PASM and maybe add the TPC DSC controller at the same time or later. Then add wheel spacers to push out the tires to the wheel arches. In your case I would stay with 40 side walls to fill the wheelwells.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have noticed that H&R springs leave the rear end higher for some reason which changes the balance to slightly oversteer. R springs do not. So, that could be a deciding point. Keep the PASM and maybe add the TPC DSC controller at the same time or later. Then add wheel spacers to push out the tires to the wheel arches. In your case I would stay with 40 side walls to fill the wheelwells.
Yea I think thats the route i'm going to take, I already have spacers, and I'm thinking i'll save up for the R springs and new wheels to fill out the wheel wells and the tpc dsc down the line because everyone that has it keeps swearing by it.
 
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