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thanks for the suggestion but for me I don't think a 10m drop is enough the wheel gap would still be too much, so that leaves me with the springs or coilovers, if my goal is only a better ride height what would you guys suggest? It would be an added bonus if it were to improve my handling as well, however I just don't want it to have a negative impact on handling. A stiffer ride is acceptable though. Are lowering springs an acceptable solution or should I just save up for adjustable coilovers?
You won’t improve the handling in any way.

Part of the cars engineering is masses and masses of suspension tuning and setup for the suspension.

Most likely all you’ll do is ruin it.

Its honestly not worth it for the slight visual “improvement” you think it’ll make.

It’s an incredible drivers car, you don’t see the outside when you’re driving it.
 

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On my PASM Cayman I used Godspeed springs but only installed them in the rear. Picked them because thought the others might be too low. And it is perfect now IMHO. The pic in my thumbnail is stock springs
 

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Suspension tuning is an art, but lowering your car with R springs will fit into the Porsche drivers car style. So down the road, two items are important to maintain that feel. Tires- critical and wheels weight, width and offset also critical. TPC DSC to add faster computer speed, and controllability in both compression and rebound (in both high speed and low speed shaft speeds).

Tires are very important in keeping the tread on the contact surface in long sweeping corners as well as slalom types of road work. Michelin PS4's is an excellent place to start as they provide a tire with excellent traction, turnin and wet/dry stopping power yet minimal NVH. I would add that 9 in wheels in f and 10 in wheels in the rear, that would give you plenty of support for 255/35/18's in f tires and 275/35/18's in the rear tires. 35 side walls provide excellent turnin and slalom work, while 40 provide more rubber to fill the fender wells and a softer ride.

Either Titan 7 TS-5's or Apex wheels will work.

Once you get the suspension and wheels/tires installed, then you can save for the final icing on the cake, TPC DSC. That will pull all the suspension parts together. If you look at some of the new parts going into the lastest 911's, its essentially the TPC DSC and shock body. Porsche really has upped their game plan.

Newer 911's also tie together electronic engine mounts to stiffen up the engine and transaxle mounts, yet preserving limited NVH. Function First Orange insert and transmission mounts will do the same thing for your car, but they also will bring more NHV, where the newer 911 electronic mounts will not.

Lastly, Sprint Booster, will add a surprising amount of excitement to your drive. Look into this product down the road.

Have fun
 

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Suspension tuning is an art, but lowering your car with R springs will fit into the Porsche drivers car style. So down the road, two items are important to maintain that feel. Tires- critical and wheels weight, width and offset also critical. TPC DSC to add faster computer speed, and controllability in both compression and rebound (in both high speed and low speed shaft speeds).

Tires are very important in keeping the tread on the contact surface in long sweeping corners as well as slalom types of road work. Michelin PS4's is an excellent place to start as they provide a tire with excellent traction, turnin and wet/dry stopping power yet minimal NVH. I would add that 9 in wheels in f and 10 in wheels in the rear, that would give you plenty of support for 255/35/18's in f tires and 275/35/18's in the rear tires. 35 side walls provide excellent turnin and slalom work, while 40 provide more rubber to fill the fender wells and a softer ride.
Apex,

I think the stock 18s for our rides are 235/40 and 265/40.

You're running 35s front and rear? I imagine that would leave more of a gap from tire to fender wells? But what actual driving implications (handling straights and cornering, comfort, road noise etc) can one expect? And vice versa, what about going to 45s? Let's say we stick to the same class of tires (eg. Max Performance summer) to try to compare apples to apples.

I take Porsche will of course not recommend this so let;s take that point out of the discussion.

Thanks again in advance for your experience.
 

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So the question is am I running 35's f & r? Yes, can 45 be run? yes but keep in mind the car was developed with 40 sidewall and that tire circumference. So you speedo will be off slightly running 45. But they will fill up your wheel wells. I will include a picture of my car with the Titan 7's TS-5 and Hoosier A7's race slicks, size 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r.

I would check out Michelin PS4's with a 40 sidewall. 35 will lower your car about 3/4 of an inch. You can see that these size tires do fill the wheel well nicely.
DSC_0016.JPG
 

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So the question is am I running 35's f & r? Yes, can 45 be run? yes but keep in mind the car was developed with 40 sidewall and that tire circumference. So you speedo will be off slightly running 45. But they will fill up your wheel wells. I will include a picture of my car with the Titan 7's TS-5 and Hoosier A7's race slicks, size 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r.

I would check out Michelin PS4's with a 40 sidewall. 35 will lower your car about 3/4 of an inch. You can see that these size tires do fill the wheel well nicely.
View attachment 268726
So the setup n the pic are the 35s or the 40 PS4?

45 will affect speedo but indicating more or less? I presume 35 will be less. Can you share your thoughts on handling, comfort and noise for the various heights pls.

Also, when say PS4.. its not the PS4S? I like how the PS2 and PSS handles and am reading that handling wise the PS4(no S) does not handle as well. I'm sure its ok for street use and I don't track but ya know... :)

Your car is dropped as well. How much did you drop it? I'm on R springs and B8 and that has lowered the ride approx 20 to 25mm. Yours looks closer to 35mm? I still have a 2.5 finger height on 40s but have toyed with the idea of going to 45s for the visual effect on closing the gap. I'm sure there may be issues associated with this that I'm not aware of so please so educate if time and choosing permits.

Damn... those wheels rock! Must be a million times I've said that.
 

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The larger the circumference/diameter of the tire the lower the speedo will read (fewer rpms for give speed). Now the aspect ratio only matters if the width of the tires are the same. So a wider tire with a lower aspect ratio may be the same size or even larger than a narrower tire. So you need to look at diameter of tires or circumference not aspect ratios. Also the taller the tire the narrower it will need to be to not rub (usually there are some exceptions to this rule)

edited to add-
Also consider performance. With a taller tire acceleration will suffer but top speed in each gear will be higher.
 

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My OEM wheels have Michelin PS4S tires 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 R. The Michelin's are more squirlley, by that I mean I can slide them around a corner, using my LSD to spin both rear tires. With the other two sets of tires, that is RE71R's and Hoosiers A7, both are sticky enough that sliding these does not work. But again, the Michelins are road tires, not intended for the race track. Some say they work well in the rain, but I actually found the RE71R's to stick better, only in standing water are the Michlins better.

My car is dropped (36 mm on the passenger side and 34 mm on the driver side) due to corner balance and 35 sidewall tires. I do scrape the front wind deflectors on some speed bumps and other items, like side walks. No touching of the suspension parts or the LN skid plate over the deep sump.
 
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