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by: Krazed1

Description: Ok:

Spent 6 hours installing my sump today. My car is a 2007 Boxster S. Here's some guidance for those who will be attempting this installation. I've attempted to capture the procedure as I executed it, no guarantees this is complete and will work for everyone:

Tools I used:

- Safety glasses (after getting hot plastic in my eye, even while wearing my glasses)
- 2 plastic putty knives (for cleaning the block surface to remove the old sealant)
- 10 mm socket with ratchet
- 10 mm wrench
- T-20 Torx
- 1/4 drive E-10 Deep socket (luckily Harbor Freight had one tonight)
- 1/4 drive Torque wrench in inch/lbs
- 1/4 inch ratchet
- Plastic interior removal tools (to pry existing sump pan off without scoring block mating surface)
- Dremel tool
- Dremel cutting disks
- Dremel micro drum sanding attachment
- Large screwdriver
- Sealant (Permatex anaerobic gasket maker #51813
- LocTite blue
- Oil and filter
- Brake Cleaner
- GooGone
- Razor Blades
- A good friend. An extra pair of hands really come in handy.

Budget 5-6 hours. It can probably be done in 4, but I didn't rush it and took my time.
Step #1
Drain the oil and remove the filter

Step #2
Remove the belly pan under the front of the engine to provide clearance while installing the new deep sump using the T-20 Torx and 10 mm socket

Step #3
Remove the existing pan bolts using the E-10 Torx socket. Set these bolts aside as they will be reused when installing the Mantis Deep sump. The existing sump pan will remain in place after removing all of the pan bolts due to the sealant the factory used during assembly. There is a small pry tab on the drivers side I used to get a gap to open up using a large screwdriver. The pry tab is external. Once a small gap opened up, I used one of the plastic interior removal tools to complete the pan removal. Use plastic to avoid scarring the mating surface. Once its loose, drop the existing pan straight down with the stock baffle in place. Be prepared for more oil to drip out.

Step #4
Remove the oil pickup tube removing two E-10 bolts. These bolts will be replaced with longer ones provided with the sump kit. Cleanup the pickup tube. Remove the rubber o-ring as Mantis provides a new one in the kit. Be prepared for yet more oil to drip out after removing the pickup tube. Set the pickup tube aside for later re-installation with the provided spacer.

Step #5
Cleanup the mating surface on the bottom of the block, removing all of the old sealant. I used googone on the old sealant first, and then used the plastic putty knives. Once all of the old sealant is removed, use a clean rag with brake clean to remove any and all oil residue off of the mating surface.

Step # 6
Reinstall the oil pickup tube with the provided spacer and longer bolts. The new bolts are 10mm, so use a 10 mm socket. Make sure to position the spacer properly, so that the o-ring will be in the correct position to seal the pickup tube. The spacer o-ring should go up towards the block. The pickup tube is plastic, so don't over tighten the bolts. I used LocTite blue on the bolts to ensure they don't vibrate loose.

Step # 7
Remove the baffle from the stock pan using an E-10 socket. You wont need the 3 bolts used to hold the baffle on the pan as new ones are provided in the kit with washers and locking nuts.

Step # 8
Trim the existing baffle as instructed in the installation procedure from Mantis. This step is fiddly and takes quite a long time to ensure you trim it properly without cutting into the baffle. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. Make sure you have safety glasses on as hot plastic will be flying around. Once trimmed, I used the micro sanding drum to cleanup the edges and a razor blade to de-burr the sides. This step will make a mess of the baffle, so clean it properly to remove the plastic bits both onside and out. Take care when trimming around the rubber flaps so you don't damage them. Take extra care not to break the baffle since once you trim it, there are some rather thin sections. The pictures in the installation procedure aren't too clear. Basically, you are removing the lip so that the bolt mount area or platform is flush to the windage tray. It's pretty clear once you have the baffle in your hands.

The stock oil pan has a lip that the baffle fits over. This lip is not used on the windage tray. So the corresponding lip needs to be removed on the baffle so that it fits flush on the windage tray. You'll remove approximately a 1/4 inch all the way around on the end that mates up with the windage tray.

Step # 9
Reinstall the trimmed and cleaned baffle onto the windage tray with the three provided bolts and associated washers and nuts. You will need a 10 mm socket and 10 mm wrench to complete this step. Again, dont over tighten these bolts as the baffle is plastic.

Step # 10
Test fit the baffle and pan on the block. Mine didn't initially fit properly, but that wasn't because the parts were defective. On my car, the bracket that attaches the safety cable to the transmission was too far forward, which didn't provide enough clearance for the new deep sump pan. To get around this, I loosened the bracket and used a screwdriver to reposition the bracket to provide the needed clearance. Don't forget to retighten the bolts that hold the bracket.
Step # 11
Clean all mating surfaces on the block, deep sump, and windage tray (both sides) removing any residual oil. Apply a small bead of sealant to the mating surface of the deep sump. Set the windage tray with mounted baffle on top of the pan, aligning the mounting holes. Avoid too much lateral movement. I then applied a small bead of sealant on the bottom of the block. With help from a friend, position the pan, with windage tray and baffle under the engine and lift straight up until the assembly is in the proper position and begin replacing the pan bolts. Again, avoid too much lateral movement. Hand snug all of the pan bolts initially, then use the E-10 1/4 drive socket with the Torque wrench and tighten the bolts to 85 inch/lbs. Clean any sealant off of the sides that squeezes out after tightening the bolts.

Step #12
Re-install the oil drain plug and oil filter

*** I'm letting the sealant setup over night and plan to refill the oil tomorrow ***

Step # 13
Refill the engine oil, taking into account the additional capacity provided by the deep sump (1.2 or 2 liters , depending on what version you purchased)

*** FYI: For the 1.2L kit, doing the math comes to 8.95 liters or 9.46 quarters with an oil filter change ***

Step # 14
Check for leaks

Step # 15
Re-install the belly pan removed earlier

Hope this helps guys! If you find any issues, let me know and I'll correct or add to the procedure.

Good luck! If you have a question, I'll try to help, but Mantis is probably best to answer and/or address any issues or concerns you may have.

-Rob


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