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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Bought an IPD Competition Plenum with 83mm Throttel body for my 981 Cayman S.

I have worked on many cars before, changing camshafts, pistons, etc. on many car throughout my life.

Seemed easy. Well, so far, it hasn't been. I am going to be a bit negative towards IPD, so I won't mention the vendor as none of the problems is related to them. I will say the vendor has been nothing but supportive, calling me, email hints, sending pictures, etc. Great support, couldn't ask for better. The reason is that there are no IPD factory instructions for the 981 and the ones available for the 987.2 and 997.2 are written with no pictures and do not fit the 981 well. Lack of instructions is a major fault, IMHO. Some vendors may be providing their own write-ups, but IPD does not yet have a procedure tailored to the 981.

1) Getting to the engine is a pain. There is only one web site with accurate "how to do it" pictures. It forced me to pay for a PCA membership (I had been planning to do so eventually) and then request membership to the website. The instructions and pictures were exactly what I needed to see how to get the carpet off the upper lid. Be careful with the screws, pulling them across the front arch can drop into the carpet front engine cover area. Use a magnet. I just hope it all goes back together without rattles.

2) Once the carpet/foam cover has been removed, there are 12 T-30 screws holding down the engine lid. 10 of 12 are reachable. The two center screws at the seat side are shielded and only have about 1.5 inches of clearance. You need a right angle T-30 L wrench or Kobalt sells a bit set with the bits less than 1 inch and a small gear wrench that works well. For me, once loosened, you can unscrew the two screws with your fingers. Get the two final screws off and the lid comes off easily.

3) I had difficulty in removing the factory plenum. Part of this was it was very cold and the rubber parts were stiff and I did not remove the throttle body Y hose (but loosened clamps) before trying to remove the plenum. The Y hose limited movement and would not let the plenum move enough to disengage from the band clamps. Eventually I pried the Y hose off the throttle body and the plenum came out.

4) Speaking of the clam shell-shaped band clamps, the rubber gaskets underneath were stuck to the metal bands. Again, this may be because it was cold. But it took a hook tool into the screw hole, pulling with all my might to get the upper part of the clamp to release. Both clamps were equally stuck. They flew across the trunk when they let loose.

5) You have to transfer the MAP sensor and the flapper vacuum actuator and attached electric solenoid to the new plenum. The 997 and 987.2 instructions give bad advice in separating the ball joint. It says to use pliers, but be careful. You are likely to crush the socket. Take two small screwdrivers and on each side of the ball, pry up on the arm underside putting equal pressure on both sides and the joint will separate without putting a crushing pressure on the arm socket.

6) The plenum casting was designed for another model and was made to fit the 981. The first thing you notice is the canister mounting area has many threaded holes for different configurations. The bracket cast into the plenum to mount the electric solenoid is located on the wrong side of the plenum. The hose between the vacuum canister and the solenoid was too short by about 4 inches! Without thinking, I removed the glued hose (the 987.2 and 997.2 instructions alluded to this), purchased a longer 5/32" hose and glued it back so the solenoid would fit on the IPD mounting location. DON'T DO THIS! The solenoid wiring harness and the vacuum hose will not stretch to the IPD Plenum's mounting location. The choice is to tie wrap the solenoid to the manifold at the 981's mounting location (cheap) or....

I used a coping saw and cut the plastic solenoid mount off the old plenum and used JB weld to glue it to the correct place on the IPD plenum. Drastic, but it will fit the wiring and the vacuum hose. I found this easier than extending the solenoid wires or to cut factory glued vacuum tubing and extend it (especially since it was clearly epoxied). When I cut the mount from the plastic plenum, I cut all the way through to the inside of the plenum. This leaves a curved layer at the bottom of the mount, giving a large surface area for the glue to hold on to.

7) The final issue was the IPD Y hose. It is wider than the old hose and is a thicker, less flexible material. Again being cold, I could only get one end to go on without catching and curving into the hole at the other end. No amount of brute force could get it over the second air filter hole side. I wound up using a large L shaped pick tool and worked around the edges until the hose was seated all the way around. I visually inspected from the open center hole to see that the plastic was seated correctly at both ends. It is all too easy to have a 45 degree section of the hose bent over at the back and look OK from inside. Only the internal inspection is proof or otherwise you will have an air leak, allowing dirty air to enter the engine.

I am currently waiting for the glue to set (couple hours away) and will try to get the plenum in and car started today. I will update afterwards.
 

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Sounds like a typical experience on all my DIY projects. Although frustrating at times, the satisfaction of knowing exactly what you did makes it all worthwhile. Plus, it helped my tool collection immensely.

Case in point......Took my car to dealer for the "annual oil change" mainly to keep my warranty in tact. Performed first oil change myself with one of the kits sold by several of the sponsors on this site. Kit included filter, new bolt and washer and O ring. No problems or leaks. After going to dealer and spending $400.00, I now have oil on my brand new epoxy floor. Going to get under there and tighten everything up before I contact the dealer.

Thanks for the write up as I plan to do this upgrade myself over the winter.
 

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Thank you for the writeup and observations. I was going through everything and taking notes on your findings

My my addage to this is that I didn't have any of those problems when installing the IPD plenum and ThrottleBody and per the metal clamp/clamshell as I PM'd you, I used a screwdriver and mallet the 'Gently' tap on the end and it broke free fairly easily. Per the hoses on the Y connector I used a touch of the oil reidue from the plenum as lube, like you would with an oil filter for lube purposes. As far as the rest of the installation, nothing to it...I was done in 2.5 hours flat from start to washing my hands.

I would attribute the cold hindering you if I were to guess as your observation clearly show that you know what your doing But cold is a real bear on flexibility as we all know. I'm now on day 12 and after a header install with sport exhaust everything is great!

I think that once we have a real tune this car will be even More alive than she already is. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yes, it has been in the upper 20s to low 30s here and rubber does not want to move. Once the metal clamshell bands came off, I did use a screwdriver under the gasket to loosen the plenum. The big issue was that the Y hose throttle body side had to come off before the plenum would work out. Once it budged, the thing came out quickly. Again, if there only were accurate instructions that stated the hose had to come of first.... Going on, I did use oil in the intake to lube the Y hose.

I also think some of my issues are fear of using too much force on the car and breaking things. Also during the week, I only had 90 minutes of light to work each evening this week (need some portable lighting on my Christmas list) and I was always in a hurry. I lost much of today waiting on the JB Weld to solidify (event with gentle heat to accelerate the process).
 

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Yes, it has been in the upper 20s to low 30s here and rubber does not want to move. Once the metal clamshell bands came off, I did use a screwdriver under the gasket to loosen the plenum. The big issue was that the Y hose throttle body side had to come off before the plenum would work out. Once it budged, the thing came out quickly. Again, if there only were accurate instructions that stated the hose had to come of first....

I also think some of my issues are fear of using too much force on the car and breaking things. Also during the week, I only had 90 minutes of light to work each evening this week (need some portable lighting on my Christmas list).
Wow, I'm a Floridian and that serious Cold!...Lol. Yeah, breaking those loose must've been a real Bear at those temps. If it were warmer I'm sure it would have been a whole different story.

Per the instructions, I called Craig and told him the same thing. A 'Real' tutorial is needed for this application. Being that I too sell them, Perhaps I will do a writeup and issue it out to my customers with every sale, it will save me a lot of questions that would be coming in I'm sure ;).
 

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Were can we get a nice tutorial for the IPD Plenum? I'm next in queue for installation as soon as it arrives :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I decided to wait until Saturday to install the plenum as the high temperature is supposed to be 47F (and 54F on Sunday). I thinks things will go back together easier and especially the rubber hose and gaskets will seal more completely in moderate temperatures. I didn't want to freeze myself on Thanksgiving (high was 34F).

Greg
 

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I decided to wait until Saturday to install the plenum as the high temperature is supposed to be 47F (and 54F on Sunday). I thinks things will go back together easier and especially the rubber hose and gaskets will seal more completely in moderate temperatures. I didn't want to freeze myself on Thanksgiving (high was 34F).

Greg
Damn, and I was just saying that it was feeling so good yesterday at 60deg! I lived in New England and Germany....of both I do miss those summers but do Not miss those winters that much more...Lol. As far as non freezing temps yessir they will Defintiely be your friend upon installation.

I drive the P-Car this morning and she was breathing very well in the 45deg weather with low humidity. Later after work around 1pm I'll be taking the McLaren out....She will be breathing Exceptionally well in the 55deg high weather! That thing is just a monster in these cool temps... ;)
 

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I had thought of this but to me to me it looks like the work/reward ratio may be skewed towards work. Maybe I just haven't seen it but is there a dyno run to show what gains there are to be had? carl
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think it is a three part solution. You need to get more air in, more air out, and more fuel to make more HP. Headers/exhaust and Plenum are two of the legs, the third, fuel, is the much-delayed ECU tune. Only then can you realize the maximum benefits of the upgrades. Until then, the improvements, especially for the Plenum, are marginal.
 

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I think it is a three part solution. You need to get more air in, more air out, and more fuel to make more HP. Headers/exhaust and Plenum are two of the legs, the third, fuel, is the much-delayed ECU tune. Only then can you realize the maximum benefits of the upgrades. Until then, the improvements, especially for the Plenum, are marginal.
+1 on the above. Wait for a proven tune.
I installed the plenum and throttle body on a previously owned 987 and it was not an easy task. Space is tight and access is a pain, both of which appear to be more difficult on the 981. A good choice for lubricating the hoses for attachment is dishwashing liquid which will help immensely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well the car beat me today. I was so close to having it ready to test drive....

I installed and reinstalled the plenum five times and could not get the clamshell clamps to close enough to get the screw threaded. I took the old plenum and the clamps and by test fitting, found out that if the clamp edge catches on the raised edge of the plastic manifold, it will not come within 3/8ths of an inch of reaching the first thread on the screw/bolt. Went back out and carefully aligned the clamps and got the driver's side clamp to thread. Hooray!

Passenger side has same issue. The underside of the clamp has restricted movement. Don't wanna take the plenum off again. The nut side lower camp wants to overlap the raised edge of the intake manifold. If I move it to the correct place, it will come up, but it rotates too far and the upper clamp is not matching the curvature of the plenum, it doesn't fit. Closest I can get is about 1/16".

I am tempted to find a longer bolt and drive the clamp halves to a loose close, force the assembly to rotate to the correct orientation, tighten, loosen and then replace with the original screw.

It was getting dark and I was cold. Round two tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To show how bad things went, the Y hose clamp to the throttle body wouldn't hold. The tighter I tightened it, the more it slid. Probably due to the fact I sprayed it with silicone lubricant. In any case will replace with a wider clamp tomorrow.
 

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Well the car beat me today. I was so close to having it ready to test drive....

I installed and reinstalled the plenum five times and could not get the clamshell clamps to close enough to get the screw threaded. I took the old plenum and the clamps and by test fitting, found out that if the clamp edge catches on the raised edge of the plastic manifold, it will not come within 3/8ths of an inch of reaching the first thread on the screw/bolt. Went back out and carefully aligned the clamps and got the driver's side clamp to thread. Hooray!

Passenger side has same issue. The underside of the clamp has restricted movement. Don't wanna take the plenum off again. The nut side lower camp wants to overlap the raised edge of the intake manifold. If I move it to the correct place, it will come up, but it rotates too far and the upper clamp is not matching the curvature of the plenum, it doesn't fit. Closest I can get is about 1/16".

I am tempted to find a longer bolt and drive the clamp halves to a loose close, force the assembly to rotate to the correct orientation, tighten, loosen and then replace with the original screw.

It was getting dark and I was cold. Round two tomorrow.

I used a pair of large pliers to hold it whilst threading the bolt. It was not meeting up per the clamshell clamps at first but all went smoothly after using the pliers. Per seating the Y hose, remember my PM when you asked about the installation? I used a touch of oil from the factory plenum, just enough to lube it so it'll be easier to get it on there ;).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not a lot of clearance on the passenger side to get pliers in there and squeeze. With the manifold out, I put the clamshell clamps over the gasket of the manifold and it barely fit the screw when perfectly aligned. I would have got the clamshell bands on if the screw was 1/4 inch longer. I am going to spray some lube between the gasket and the lower clamp half as it was so stuck, it never came off the rubber gasket. That stickiness is perhaps why I can't get it to rotate completely to the upper clamp half's naturally conforming position.


The TB side of the Y hose is all the way on. The hose clamp slides off when tightening. It doesn't matter if the clamp is at the edge of the hose or back a bit. I think a wider clamp will fix that.
 

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Bought an IPD Competition Plenum with 83mm Throttel body for my 981 Cayman S.

I have worked on many cars before, changing camshafts, pistons, etc. on many car throughout my life.

Seemed easy. Well, so far, it hasn't been. I am going to be a bit negative towards IPD, so I won't mention the vendor as none of the problems is related to them. I will say the vendor has been nothing but supportive, calling me, email hints, sending pictures, etc. Great support, couldn't ask for better. The reason is that there are no IPD factory instructions for the 981 and the ones available for the 987.2 and 997.2 are written with no pictures and do not fit the 981 well. Lack of instructions is a major fault, IMHO. Some vendors may be providing their own write-ups, but IPD does not yet have a procedure tailored to the 981.

1) Getting to the engine is a pain. There is only one web site with accurate "how to do it" pictures. It forced me to pay for a PCA membership (I had been planning to do so eventually) and then request membership to the website. The instructions and pictures were exactly what I needed to see how to get the carpet off the upper lid. Be careful with the screws, pulling them across the front arch can drop into the carpet front engine cover area. Use a magnet. I just hope it all goes back together without rattles.

2) Once the carpet/foam cover has been removed, there are 12 T-30 screws holding down the engine lid. 10 of 12 are reachable. The two center screws at the seat side are shielded and only have about 1.5 inches of clearance. You need a right angle T-30 L wrench or Kobalt sells a bit set with the bits less than 1 inch and a small gear wrench that works well. For me, once loosened, you can unscrew the two screws with your fingers. Get the two final screws off and the lid comes off easily.

3) I had difficulty in removing the factory plenum. Part of this was it was very cold and the rubber parts were stiff and I did not remove the throttle body Y hose (but loosened clamps) before trying to remove the plenum. The Y hose limited movement and would not let the plenum move enough to disengage from the band clamps. Eventually I pried the Y hose off the throttle body and the plenum came out.

4) Speaking of the clam shell-shaped band clamps, the rubber gaskets underneath were stuck to the metal bands. Again, this may be because it was cold. But it took a hook tool into the screw hole, pulling with all my might to get the upper part of the clamp to release. Both clamps were equally stuck. They flew across the trunk when they let loose.

5) You have to transfer the MAP sensor and the flapper vacuum actuator and attached electric solenoid to the new plenum. The 997 and 987.2 instructions give bad advice in separating the ball joint. It says to use pliers, but be careful. You are likely to crush the socket. Take two small screwdrivers and on each side of the ball, pry up on the arm underside putting equal pressure on both sides and the joint will separate without putting a crushing pressure on the arm socket.

6) The plenum casting was designed for another model and was made to fit the 981. The first thing you notice is the canister mounting area has many threaded holes for different configurations. The bracket cast into the plenum to mount the electric solenoid is located on the wrong side of the plenum. The hose between the vacuum canister and the solenoid was too short by about 4 inches! Without thinking, I removed the glued hose (the 987.2 and 997.2 instructions alluded to this), purchased a longer 5/32" hose and glued it back so the solenoid would fit on the IPD mounting location. DON'T DO THIS! The solenoid wiring harness and the vacuum hose will not stretch to the IPD Plenum's mounting location. The choice is to tie wrap the solenoid to the manifold at the 981's mounting location (cheap) or....

I used a coping saw and cut the plastic solenoid mount off the old plenum and used JB weld to glue it to the correct place on the IPD plenum. Drastic, but it will fit the wiring and the vacuum hose. I found this easier than extending the solenoid wires or to cut factory glued vacuum tubing and extend it (especially since it was clearly epoxied). When I cut the mount from the plastic plenum, I cut all the way through to the inside of the plenum. This leaves a curved layer at the bottom of the mount, giving a large surface area for the glue to hold on to.

7) The final issue was the IPD Y hose. It is wider than the old hose and is a thicker, less flexible material. Again being cold, I could only get one end to go on without catching and curving into the hole at the other end. No amount of brute force could get it over the second air filter hole side. I wound up using a large L shaped pick tool and worked around the edges until the hose was seated all the way around. I visually inspected from the open center hole to see that the plastic was seated correctly at both ends. It is all too easy to have a 45 degree section of the hose bent over at the back and look OK from inside. Only the internal inspection is proof or otherwise you will have an air leak, allowing dirty air to enter the engine.

I am currently waiting for the glue to set (couple hours away) and will try to get the plenum in and car started today. I will update afterwards.

AFAIK there have been articles done in our Articles section for the 981 that shows how to get to the engine compartment, did you review any of those before paying for another site? In addition, if you thought any of the articles here were lacking in their descriptions/photos/etc. then by all mean SUBMIT AN ARTICLE yourself to help out your fellow website members. I know we have a ton of 987 articles here and for some reason our 981 owners haven't been contributing as much as our 987 members did in the past. Now obviously some things have stayed the same, but many things have not, and I would really like to see 981 owners like yourself who are doing things to their 981's themselves take the time to document it here in photos and an article to help build our library of 981 articles and assist other members who may be planning to do the same thing to their 981.

Thanks in advance!!!
:thanks:
 
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