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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I previously posted that my first mod was the acquisition of a mid-rise lift for my garage. It has come in very handy already, and today it helped with my second mod, first to actually go on the car.

I installed a set of wheel studs/nuts to replace the standard wheel bolts that Porsche now uses, as does BMW. I hate the bolts and have replaced them on my previous 3 BMW's so this wasn't a new deal to me. I bought a set from Pelican Parts and it was a very straightforward installation, take the wheels off, clean up the hub face and the calipers while I had access to them, put loctite on the new studs, tighten them down, and put the wheels back on using the shiney new lug nuts. The studs protrude some from the wheel face, more on the front of course, but that doesn't bother me in the least. I pull the wheels off farily frequently so this will help me a lot.
 

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Pics please.
 

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You can get studs of different lengths, so the protrusion should be eliminated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are pics. I know other stud lengths are available, but these are the ones that came with the kit.
 

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Don't worry, you won't have to look at it, I'm not planning any trips to MO.
Mitch,
Can you get some sort of cap to put over those stud ends? They do look a bit unfinished IMHO and are they rust-proof? I'd hate to see what they'd look like after the wheels had been on/off a few times and the metal scored if it was not a rust-proof metal like stainless, titanium, etc. I wonder if Porsche built the cars like this if people would take the time to do the reverse and put in lug bolts instead? :)

These will certainly make wheels changes faster/easier!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They are bright shiney studs, and appear to be the same as what is on my M3. Those on the M3 are still bright and shiney after 2 years, so I expect these to stay the same. I suppose I could come up with some sort of caps for the exposed studs, I might look into it. The studs have 50mm of useful threads for the wheel, and allow for spacers when using track wheels. I suppose I can find shorter studs elsewhere that would not show as much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
shorter studs now installed

I got shorter studs the other day, and now the problem of them sticking out beyond the lug nuts is solved.
 

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Re: shorter studs now installed

I got shorter studs the other day, and now the problem of them sticking out beyond the lug nuts is solved.
Don't use those studs. They are too short. You need full engagement of the nut on the stud to be safe, and the only way to get that is with studs that extend at least to the top nuts. You run the risk of stripping the threads and having the nuts pull off in a hard corner.

Your first studs were "cosmetically challenged", but they were much safer than your current set.
 

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Maybe the shorter studs are o.k. A mechanical engineer once told me that all of the load on a threaded bolt is on only 4 threads. That being said I'd get the longer studs back in, trimmed if necessary. Ain't mods a blast?
 

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The rule of thumb is that the length of thread engagement should be at least equal to the diameter of the stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll have to get a measurement, but I just pulled one lug off and it took nine full turns for it to come off the stud from full tight. I believe it is more than the diameter of the stud.
 

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Re. covers for the lug nut heads, I got a set of chrome covers already which you can get on ebay anytime. Noticed last week that Suncoast now has a set I believe is from Porsche that is shiney grey (not chrome) but more like the wheel finish and more hex/penta (whichever) head shaped than the chrome. Should get them this week. These should be std. equipment on all Porsches for what they must cost to produce.
 

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9 full turns of engagement will do the trick. On the longer studs there are alloy lug nuts which have extended egagement. I can't remember where I saw them last.

Of course you can stlill leave the long ones exteded for that retro Charlton Heston look ;)
 

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A good rule of thumb is to have at least 9 full revolutions of the nut on the stud. This is close to the number of revolutions that an oem bolt has.

Having studs makes it easier to change wheels often, as required in autocross and track events. Studs are a great advantage when you are using spacers in order to accomodate different diameter tires.

I have studs on my M3, as this is the car that I have been autocrossing. When I instal the street tires the studs have the Ben Hur charriot look. When I install the race tires the nuts have the right amount of engagement to pass tech and hold the wheels when fully loading the suspension during competion. I have been running studs on the M3 for the past 10 years and I have not had problems with the studs rusting or loosing thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took my caliper to the stud, it is not as big in diameter as the depth that the lug holds on it when the wheel is snug, I should be fine.

Yeah, when I tracked my BMW's I had the "Ben Hur" look as well. But I got so much grief on this board from the long studs on my Cayman I decided to get the shorter ones. They do look better.
 

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Most nuts used in structural applications are about the same thickness as the diameter of the bolt/stud they are threaded to. I think this would be 4-5 threads in most cases. This means that if you are running deep lugs nuts, there would be no structural reason for the studs to extend the full depth of the nut.

An aerospace stress engineer, who is also a road racer, told me that essentially all of the clamping load is in the first two threads.

With studs longer than the nuts (protruding out form the nuts) I suppose there is some risk of damage (rust or nicks) to the threads that would compromize the removal of the nuts.

I guess that I've convinced myself that the ideal length of stud, with open lug nuts, would be such that the end of the stud threads are flush with the end of the threads of the nut.
 

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I also ordered the Rennline studs from Pelican Parts (I have 7- and 14mm spacers and much deeper bolt holes on my wheels, don't think they'll protrude). What Loctite do you use on studs -- red or blue?

For the life of me, I can't figure out why Porsche uses the bolts which are such a pain each time you have to put wheels on. Plus all that on-off-on-off can't be good for the threads in your hubs. Eventually, those will wear, won't they?
 

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NO LOCTITE! When I used Blue it liquefies with heat and acts as grease causing studs to screw out.
 
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