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I have had 60s and 70s cars that have had lap belts, I really think as long as you aware of the risk its fine, there are no air bags on a motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Got a set of Porsche rubber floor mats. I've always preferred rubber over carpet.



Swapped the main interior bulbs to LEDs and added my ricey touch of blue LEDs for the foot well lights. Since they're just the foot well bulbs, they only illuminate when the doors open. I like the splash of color and they compliment the other blue accents on the car.

 

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Discussion Starter #23
Bolted my fire extinguisher bracket to the roll cage, directly behind the driver's seat for easy access when exiting the vehicle.

All vehicles should be required to carry fire extinguishers; I know some countries make it mandatory.

 

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Discussion Starter #24
I picked up a set of Godspeed coilovers and adjustable toe arms for a ridiculously low price, brand new in box but previously opened and returned. I share the general opinion of Godspeed products and if these last me two seasons, I'll be surprised and happy. In the meantime, it's nice having something with adjustable dampening, lowering, and built in camber plates.

I'm honestly very impressed... Compared to my experience with H&R, Bilstein, and K&W on Ford, Mazda, and Volvo, I would consider these better than H&R and Bilstein, but time will tell... The amount of adjustability has allowed me to test various settings over the last few weeks and dial in something that is comfortable, sits the way I want, responds very well to the road, and isn't bouncy.

Install took about 2 hours and adjustments only take seconds.

I fully expect that I'll have to replace these in the not-so-distant future. But considering that they cost me less than 20% of any other 987 coilovers (many with less adjustment options), these will hold me off for the next year.

 

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your car's stance looks great with the wheel spacers. I would suggest you look at solid thrust pucks for your lower control arms and poly bearings as well. What this will do is prevent your tires hitting the front inner liners under down hill turns and stiffen up the rears, preventing 2 1/2 inch of travel front and aft causing your toe in to change to toe out. A Pedro Technobrace will also solidify your rear frame rails from torquing under threshold braking causing brake wiggle. The brace also aids turn in as does the solid thrust puck in front.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
your car's stance looks great with the wheel spacers. I would suggest you look at solid thrust pucks for your lower control arms and poly bearings as well. What this will do is prevent your tires hitting the front inner liners under down hill turns and stiffen up the rears, preventing 2 1/2 inch of travel front and aft causing your toe in to change to toe out. A Pedro Technobrace will also solidify your rear frame rails from torquing under threshold braking causing brake wiggle. The brace also aids turn in as does the solid thrust puck in front.
Thanks for the compliments and suggestions; more things I'll probably consider once I put a few more miles on the car and start to determine where it's lacking.
So far, no problems with rubbing or hitting the fender liners. There's a few local roads that I use as my testing grounds for suspension mods. Lots of nice banked turns and gravity dips that can cause many cars to hit their bump stops. Over the last few weekends of testing, nothing has made contact.

But a rear brace is already on my radar. Seems like an absolute must for how I intend to use this car and something I can easily fabricate in my garage.
 

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One of my convertible top arm ends was broken, so I replaced both sides with the steel replacements.

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They do wear out (I've had to replace mine) but do realize they are plastic so that they will break if there is an obstruction to closing/opening. Instead of frying the more expensive motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
They do wear out (I've had to replace mine) but do realize they are plastic so that they will break if there is an obstruction to closing/opening. Instead of frying the more expensive motor.
Yeah... I understand it's a part designed to fail to prevent damage to other components. But when it cracked, the roof fell down with the arm point straight into the canvas top. Thought for sure it would have torn it.

Considering I only raise and lower the roof once a week at most, I'll live with the risk. I've been paying close attention as the roof raises and closes, making sure nothing is getting jammed. Better than risking the roof falling again! Worst case it just gives me a reason to ditch the roof entirely. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Did a few Dragon runs and Blood mountain runs last weekend. A few more tweaks to the suspension and it'll be perfect. It's getting there! I promised myself I wouldn't order any more parts until after Christmas, so my to-do list will be completed early in the new year.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
The stance is perfect whats your settings?
Thanks!
The front is a 2" drop, the rear is a 2.3" drop to make it sit a little more level but still remain slightly raked. The dampening is set about 75% firm all around, but I'm going to soften it a bit more.

Fronts are 19" x 8" ET+45 with 5mm spacers and 235 tires, neutral toe, and -2.5° camber. Going with 245 tires and ditching the spacers for next season.
Rears are 19" x 9.5" ET+49 and 265 tires and a slight toe in. The first lowered picture was with 25mm spacer and -3.0° camber. In the rainy rolling shot, I pulled the camber back in to -2.5° and swapped for 15mm spacers. Not as flush, but these tires will be upped to a 275 and it'll look about the same again.
 

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Your stance looks good! With my OEM wheels I have 10mm f and 18mm spacers along with 10 mm internal Tarett Cup LCA shims to push the OEM stance out. My race wheels are Signature forged monoblock 9 inch 18in with 47 offset f and 10 inch rear with offset of 35. The idea of internal shims is less wear on the wheel bearings. My camber is -2.7f and -2.5r (for now) using 255/35/18 RE71R f and 275/35/18R. OEM wheels have Michelins P4S's 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r. Recently I increased my Tarett GT swaybar spring rate to the second from max front and rear. This caused me to change the Ohlin rebound settings from 15/18 clicks from stiff to 6/8 clicks to control the wheel rate. The balance (roll rate front, rear) is still very good but my main purpose of changing the swaybar to reduce weight transfer across the car.

What I am trying to accomplish is the same balance with the OEM daily drive tires and my race tires, so when I am hill climbing, pushing the apexes, etc, the front inside tire sticks and the rear does not have any tendency to snape oversteer with throttle modulation, or full thottle while unwinding the steering wheel out of corners. So far these two sets of tires are very close to the same balance, even though the RE71R's are 3-4 seconds faster through the autocross. This coming year I will invest in a set of Hoosiers A7's and relegate the RE71R's to wet track use and change my camber to -3.0f and -2.6r.

If you are fabricating a rear frame brace, I would use a solid bar like Pedro's Technobrace and use two additional bolts to attach the support plate to the bar. You may need spacers between the bar and the plate so no additional stress is put on the support plate to create a very solid rear platform.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
3 of the last 4 weekend at the Dragon have been a great way to enjoy the fall colors.

I was selected twice for photo of the week! Please go vote at: http://www.129photos.com/



 

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Discussion Starter #35
I opened up the fake grilles in the wheel well liners for better venting from the radiators. Modified on left, stock on right.



The shape of the exit tunnel is designed to flow through the entire open grille. Even the plastic that closed these off was super thin and flimsy in comparison to the rest of the wheel well liner.

 

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MNIWT- I like this idea of opening up the front vents, eventhough the amount of air will be reduced by the radiators and condensers. Just wondering if GT2 front brake ducts would help direct the additional air to the front brakes. I know there is a thread on P9 showing how to modify the GT2 Cup ducts to fit our Cayman/Boxster 987's. This additional air will aid rotor cooling even when upgrading to bigger brakes at a later date. I am currently using a GT3 Duct, but these are twice the size. Also, is there a way to add a wind deflector on the side of front opening like the M4's have to direct more air into the front radiator area.

 

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Discussion Starter #37
While even the hot air passing through the radiator will help a little bit, opening up these wheel well liner vents was primarily for allowing smoother and more efficient air flow away from the radiators.
I've got some others ideas for custom brake cooling ducts, but I'll look into those GT2 ducts you mentioned. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
In preparation for a 3rd radiator, I opened up the center section and added a mesh grille. Porsche sells the open inner retaining frame for ~$45, but 5 minutes with a dremel tool gets you the same thing. Low quality phone pics:



Using the same mesh, I made grilles for the side radiators to prevent major debris, leaves, frogs, etc. from getting stuck in there. Here was an early test fit:



I opted to secure the mesh to the ducts feeding to the radiators, rather than the bumper, so that the bumper cover and fog lights can still be easily removed. Most aftermarket mesh inserts fit in-front-of or behind the factory grille, which looks like an aftermarket afterthought to me... With the way the fog light attaches to the bumper cover, this was the best option I found for fully protecting the radiators while still making bulb changes and level adjustments easy.
Here is the final test fitting before putting the ducts back in place:

 

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Discussion Starter #39
These cars are so well balanced, but I need more downforce for high speed cornering. I have a larger rear wing on order, so to maintain the balance up front, I have built a prototype splitter out of plywood. Brackets attach to the chassis so both the splitter and bumper can still be removed separately. Also for when it inevitably gets damaged at the track, it *shouldn't* take the bumper out with it. Still needs a few more adjustments, but its sitting level with the under body, it's pretty strong, and only adds about 10lbs of stationary weight. I'll do some testing with this version and later build one out of aluminum or carbon fiber.



Test fit with the bumper has everything lining up nicely too.

 
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