Also, since tugging on the firewall wire made a difference once I thought maybe it was a weak link. I pulled the box, checked all the fuses and threaded the post instead of the push on connection.
As was mentioned - you certainly weren't the first to do this. It seems not to be uncommon (not exactly common, but damn close to it..) It seems there is always some damage.I’ve been hesitant about posting because I made such a stupid mistake and wasn’t really ready for the roasting but here we are. I managed to hook my new battery up in reverse, positive to negative and negative to positive. Initially all electrical pretty much worked but wouldn’t start. I could hear the starter engaging but not spinning. I changed the starter and same. Pulled on the wire coming from positive battery terminal going to the firewall and the car started with no codes and ran for 3 days without issue. Last time it cranked it ran for about 5 seconds and died. The fans stay on, locks and trunks open, no dash but it does recognize the key, windows and radio don’t work. When I connect the battery it arcs. Any insight would
Can you take a photo of where/what wire you tugged on? And I don't quite understand "threaded the post instead.." - what "post"?Also, since tugging on the firewall wire made a difference once I thought maybe it was a weak link. I pulled the box, checked all the fuses and threaded the post instead of the push on connection.
Sounds like a failed component somewhere.The arc is pretty big, the connection will stick to the terminal. I’m guessing it has to do with the fans constantly running. I’m not a PCA member. Thank you for your response
I believe this is the 80A fuse. If the car has any electrics working - this fuse is OK..The post in the center of this has a slide on connection with a plastic clip that holds it in place this is the wire I tugged on and initially got a response. I said through the “firewall” but it’s actually right near the battery where the positive cable exits the frunk. Mine had rust on it so when I removed it to inspect fuses and connections I threaded the center post to and bolted the cables to it to ensure a good connection View attachment 285510
The bottom item in the diagram. the fan controller is basically attached directly to the battery via the 80A fuse, so a reversed battery connection stands an excellent chance of damaging that controller.I will also say that when the battery was hooked up reversed the fans came on as well. That relay could be hung up or just pure coincidence. I have access to diagnostic tools so I’ll wait and see.
I rather doubt if your stepdad's tools would be a lot of help. It's unlikely these tools have the Porsche specific functions that dedicated tools (or tools with installable software) have. Go big and spring for a Foxwell NT530 ($160 or so with the Porsche software) - you'll find yourself relying on it in the future when you really want to know what's going on. It will be cheaper than replacing parts (like the starter) based on guesses or Internet suggestions.The battery checks out at about 12.5v. I would think, but could absolutely be wrong, if the alternator was bad it would still run but not charge. Could it possibly be fried and sending current in the wrong direction? I have access to several scan tools, my stepdad owns a diesel repair shop and I’ve used them before to clear codes I’m just waiting for him to get a little free time.
"Crowbar" is a heavy-duty electrical device unsuited for a car. It's designed to limit current surges.Crowbar would be such an inexpensive preventative measure. They don’t want people to service their own cars anymore. What I did was dumb and immediately hurt my pride. I’ve changed shifter cables, shifter, two window regulators, coolant system seal, full exhaust, radio head unit which took a lot of figuring out especially with the Bose system and lots of miscellaneous other things. Only to get my *** kicked by a battery.
Nah. That level of intelligence isn't built in. The fans can (and sometimes do) run with the ignition off, or when turning the ignition on - if the coolant temperature warrants they be on.If the fans constantly run I wonder if that might be throwing the car into a mode to save itself preventing any starting. Just random thoughts until I get the scan tool here.
I'll be interested in hearing about success with the tools he has - and what tools he's using. I do know from experience - the Snap-On tools are not particularly good for Porsche's even with their horribly expensive Porsche module. Price doesn't necessarily equal capability.The scan tools that he has are a few grand each and he said he would download the programs needed for my car. I’ve heard my fans run after driving and parked for a few minutes but from battery hook up cold and never shut off isn’t normal. I’ll definitely report back when I find something out.