[TexasT987]

I’ve been hesitant about posting because I made such a stupid mistake and wasn’t really ready for the roasting but here we are. I managed to hook my new battery up in reverse, positive to negative and negative to positive. Initially all electrical pretty much worked but wouldn’t start. I could hear the starter engaging but not spinning. I changed the starter and same. Pulled on the wire coming from positive battery terminal going to the firewall and the car started with no codes and ran for 3 days without issue. Last time it cranked it ran for about 5 seconds and died. The fans stay on, locks and trunks open, no dash but it does recognize the key, windows and radio don’t work. When I connect the battery it arcs. Any insight would

 

[TexasT987]

Also, since tugging on the firewall wire made a difference once I thought maybe it was a weak link. I pulled the box, checked all the fuses and threaded the post instead of the push on connection.

 

[TexasT987]

The arc is pretty big, the connection will stick to the terminal. I’m guessing it has to do with the fans constantly running. I’m not a PCA member. Thank you for your response

 

[TexasT987]

The post in the center of this has a slide on connection with a plastic clip that holds it in place this is the wire I tugged on and initially got a response. I said through the “firewall” but it’s actually right near the battery where the positive cable exits the frunk. Mine had rust on it so when I removed it to inspect fuses and connections I threaded the center post to and bolted the cables to it to ensure a good connection

 

[TexasT987]

Thank you guys for your time and responses

 

[TexasT987]

Picture purely for attention. I had just clay bar and waxed the day before it went down

 

[TexasT987]

I will also say that when the battery was hooked up reversed the fans came on as well. That relay could be hung up or just pure coincidence. I have access to diagnostic tools so I’ll wait and see.

 

[TexasT987]

The battery checks out at about 12.5v. I would think, but could absolutely be wrong, if the alternator was bad it would still run but not charge. Could it possibly be fried and sending current in the wrong direction? I have access to several scan tools, my stepdad owns a diesel repair shop and I’ve used them before to clear codes I’m just waiting for him to get a little free time.

 

[TexasT987]

Crowbar would be such an inexpensive preventative measure. They don’t want people to service their own cars anymore. What I did was dumb and immediately hurt my pride. I’ve changed shifter cables, shifter, two window regulators, coolant system seal, full exhaust, radio head unit which took a lot of figuring out especially with the Bose system and lots of miscellaneous other things. Only to get my *** kicked by a battery.

 

[TexasT987]

If the fans constantly run I wonder if that might be throwing the car into a mode to save itself preventing any starting. Just random thoughts until I get the scan tool here.

 

[TexasT987]

The scan tools that he has are a few grand each and he said he would download the programs needed for my car. I’ve heard my fans run after driving and parked for a few minutes but from battery hook up cold and never shut off isn’t normal. I’ll definitely report back when I find something out.

 

[TexasT987]

I’ll definitely update. I know the one I’ve been using isn’t Snap on. I’m not sure it will work, only can hope. I’m not afraid to admit when I’m wrong. Honestly knowing I can buy my own that will work for less than $200 has me thinking, especially since I own the car. The fans don’t come on with the key it’s immediately when the battery is connected. The only thing that changes with key is the ignition unlocks.

 

[TexasT987]

It didn’t run for a few days reverse. It was connected that way for a minute before I realized my mistake. Got a new battery after that and it ran a few days before going dead.

 

[TexasT987]

The battery is fine. The fans immediately start when hooked up, the car recognizes the key and unlocks the steering wheel, the doors lock/unlock and the trunks open but that’s all that works. Battery shows 12.5v

 

[TexasT987]

Update. I haven’t got the scan tool yet but I did find the relay in the rear trunk for the engine compartment fan, pulled it and same noise. I pulled everything back apart and dc the starter. Turns out it was the starter constantly spinning while battery connected. Once I dc’d it everything else in the car works again. I’m going to have the new starter tested tomorrow but is there a starter relay/ switch to lock for as well and location would be appreciated.

 

[TexasT987]

last night I disconnected the small single wire before anything else and it still spun when the battery was connected. I had the starter tested today at autozone and a starter/ alternator shop and both said it was good but I suspected it would test good and still be the problem.

 

[TexasT987]

When I had it at autozone today I watched them test it and it did as you said in the second test with the pinion coming out but when it was in the car and battery hooked up it was just constant spinning with no contact to the flywheel. It’s still out and I’ll probably do this tomorrow

 

[TexasT987]

Really wish I hadn’t turned in my old starter since it was probably fine just to see if it duplicates

 

[TexasT987]

Just so I’m clear on this. Negative to the hole on the flange and positive to the larger gold colored post

 

[TexasT987]

Can’t forget to mention how I would love to slap the **** out of everyone at the parts stores with the “joys of owning an import” comments. Bitch I’ve owned my car 5 years basically problem free this happened because of me. All of my vehicles are imports for that matter.