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Discussion Starter #1
So I placed the order for my 2015 Cayman S at the local dealership a couple weeks ago and am scheduled to take delivery of the car the second week in May.

At this point I'm trying to figure how I should protect the new finish of the car. I will be keeping the car in a garage and am good about keeping my car clean and detailed.

The Porsche dealership offers a film service for which they install SpeedFilm on the front bumper, entire hood, and a few other critical areas of the car. The price they quoted me for this is $995 installed. They will do only the front bumper for about half that amount. I asked them about coatings (Opticoat and cquartz") and they told me "Spray on coatings are not recommended".

Can anyone comment on that "not recommended" part? Have you heard this before?

At this point I'm wondering if I fine with just having a film on the front bumper of the car and keeping the rest of the car covered with a high quality paint sealant (Menzerna or similar). I want this car looking good for a long time and don't mind detailing it and maintaining the finish myself. I'm just not sure if the spray-on coatings are worth the money in the long term - or if they should even be applied to the paint at all.

Thoughts?
 

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1st. never have your dealer do the detail upon delivery on your car. they have idiots in the back that do not know what they are doing. they have used the same towel on 10 cars before yours.. so if you want swirl marks on your beauty thats the way to go.

2nd. i would find a real pro that knows what he is doing on detailing a car.. and i do not mean the car wash down the road. or lots of detail guys that do not know what they are doing. someone with concourse experience..

3rd. the bra people .. there are good ones and bad ones.. you better ask the dealer to see some of the work done.

4th is that film stuff (spray on) is the biggest rip off the dealers for the new car owners.. you can do the same thing with Aero sheild for 40 dollars btw..

4th i carry all the Aero products for the car.. the high end car products..not the pep boys things...



take care

Lemon
 

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I'm no detailing expert but think there is some good advice above. Was at a car show last week where I asked about the best looking finish I saw. It was a 944/S2. The guy had rebuilt a piece of crap that rotted in a field for the last 8 years. He's a mechanic and did all the work himself using parts from another wrecked one he bought for $1000. For another $1000 he had it painted Ferrari red by Maco. The amazing thing about the finish was the deep wet-look lustre. He said a detailer at a Hyundai dealer did it for $60, using a 'wax' developed for jet aircraft. It had an awesome deep looking shine. He would have had my vote for best looking finish. Crazy story but true. I'm guessing it was the Aero Shine product. I think it is a synthetic polymer.
 

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Coatings are fine but make sure your paint is free of any swirls/blemishes before it goes on. Coatings and sealants tend to have a glassy shine whereas waxes are more "glowing." It comes down to personal preference. In terms of durability, coatings are toughest, then sealants, then wax. Enjoy your new car!
 

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You are in GA and thus you are lucky. Look up Atlanta Protective Films. Those guys are second to absolutely no one. They have taken incredibly good care of my cars for 8/9 years.

I am am in no way affiliated with them, just an incredibly happy customer.
 

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For the best protection, film is the way to go. I like Xpel. If you're very fussy then get the whole front flip done as well as the area in front of the rear wheels. Some installers are better than others. My guy removed my headlights and lots of other trim pieces to tuck the film inside the openings.
 
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$995 is a very good price... But nobody here will advise you to go with Speedfilm, whatever that is. Two best ones are xpel and 3m, find a good reputable installer in the area and go there. It'll be a few bucks more, but well worth it.

I too would recommend not use dealer for any prep/detailing work. Read the famous "things to check at delivery" thread.
 

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$995 is a very good price... But nobody here will advise you to go with Speedfilm, whatever that is. Two best ones are xpel and 3m, find a good reputable installer in the area and go there. It'll be a few bucks more, but well worth it.

I too would recommend not use dealer for any prep/detailing work. Read the famous "things to check at delivery" thread.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I've contacted a few professional film installers in the area and will most likely choose them for any film install on the new car.
 

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I'm no detailing expert but think there is some good advice above. Was at a car show last week where I asked about the best looking finish I saw. It was a 944/S2. The guy had rebuilt a piece of crap that rotted in a field for the last 8 years. He's a mechanic and did all the work himself using parts from another wrecked one he bought for $1000. For another $1000 he had it painted Ferrari red by Maco. The amazing thing about the finish was the deep wet-look lustre. He said a detailer at a Hyundai dealer did it for $60, using a 'wax' developed for jet aircraft. It had an awesome deep looking shine. He would have had my vote for best looking finish. Crazy story but true. I'm guessing it was the Aero Shine product. I think it is a synthetic polymer.
NO.

$995 is a very good price... But nobody here will advise you to go with Speedfilm, whatever that is. Two best ones are xpel and 3m, find a good reputable installer in the area and go there. It'll be a few bucks more, but well worth it.

I too would recommend not use dealer for any prep/detailing work. Read the famous "things to check at delivery" thread.
3M is very old news and from experience, a terrible product. It scratches, stains, yellows and is generally not attractive. The two best ones out there are XPEL Ultimate and Suntek coated. Both are self healing but the "finesse" installers tend to prefer Suntek because it is more workable. Caveat: if you pay the dealer $995 to perform this service you are getting a $499 job that has been marked up so that the dealer gets a cut. There isn't a $499 install on this planet that is worth a damn. It cost me $599 just to have my hood done. My install for bumper, fenders, hood, headlights, rocker panels, rear tire splash and mirrors was $3,500 for what I consider a "real" install. You are much better off going directly to someone whose work you have seen personally on a dark colored car. Beware of really low prices.

I'm not going to get much involved beyond that. Every time I chime in with actual advice as an actual detailer I get into pissing matches with shade-tree wax wasters whose uncle's cousin's grand niece buffed her car with an angora rabbit and it looks "flawless." I will add that neither OptiCoat nor CQuartz are "spray on" so that right there should tell you something about your dealership's knowledge of the available products. The only "spray on" coating I know of is Modesta BC-05 and it is a phenomenal product. Speaking again from experience, you can't go wrong with OptiCoat or CQuartz but neither will protect from chips. In other words, wrap the whole front of your car or don't even bother unless you just want to have a really nice bumper in 3 years.

FWIW,
- Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As a side note how is the paint on these cars? My current sports car (Honda S2000) has the worst paint of any car I've ever owned. It's thin, fragile and chips with alarming ease. The entire front bumper of my car looks like it's been sand blasted - and that's from just normal highway driving.

Years back, I owned a 2000 Toyota Celica and after 10 years of ownership, there was barely a chip in the entire paint job - and that thing was a long way from being babied. Obviously, some paint jobs are more robust than others. I'm just curious as to where late model Porsches fall on that spectrum.
 

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Your Honda S2000 paint is a tank in comparison with 981 paint. It's extra thin, extra fragile and chips easily. Porsche went with some green paint, and it's awesome for the environment but really really bad as, umh, paint. I never previously installed protection films on my cars and they were ok up to and past 100K miles. So I didn't feel the need to do it on 981. Big mistake. After each year (10K) miles it gets more chips on hood and bumper than my other cars in 50-100K. The area around air intakes looks like low grit sandpaper... You do need film on 981.

As a side note how is the paint on these cars? My current sports car (Honda S2000) has the worst paint of any car I've ever owned. It's thin, fragile and chips with alarming ease. The entire front bumper of my car looks like it's been sand blasted - and that's from just normal highway driving.

Years back, I owned a 2000 Toyota Celica and after 10 years of ownership, there was barely a chip in the entire paint job - and that thing was a long way from being babied. Obviously, some paint jobs are more robust than others. I'm just curious as to where late model Porsches fall on that spectrum.
 
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film for the lights and front or any pebble sensitive areas - coating everywhere else including wheels... makes them easier to clean too.

older paint is lead based and water based paints generally are not as tough.
 

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film for the lights and front or any pebble sensitive areas - coating everywhere else including wheels... makes them easier to clean too.

older paint is lead based and water based paints generally are not as tough.
Automotive paints still use some lead based pigments.

- Patrick
 

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Keep in mind that the base coat or the color you see is most likely water born paint. This is very thin 1-2 mm thick. BUT, the clear coat is solvent base and is typically 3-4 mm thick.

On Porsche's the clear coats tend to be soft and easier to paint correct for scratches and swirls in the CLEAR COAT only. Just don't cut through it ....

It's the amount of the clear coat that KILLS the paints ability to withstand a rock hit etc.

You can remove the cover etc. and ask a QUALITY body shop to spray some extra clear over the factory paint. This will help and be cheaper that film BUT it won't stop the rock chips. It will only minimize them

Recommend Xpel or 3m myself.
 

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I'm pretty sure paint+clear on 981 is less than 2mm in total. I've been fixing plenty to-the-metal chips...
 

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This is very thin 1-2 mm thick. BUT, the clear coat is solvent base and is typically 3-4 mm thick.
I'm pretty sure paint+clear on 981 is less than 2mm in total. I've been fixing plenty to-the-metal chips...
I think you are getting your scales wrong. See The paint shop - Porsche Leipzig GmbH, the newest paint shop. The paint, 4 layers, is 0.13mm. That's 5.1 mils. Blessed, I think your numbers are right but the scale is wrong.
 

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I hope I'm right.

I just hired a guy who was the local Porsche/Audi body shop manager for almost 20 plus years and he confirmed my thought.
 
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