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Discussion Starter #21
With as many scratches and marks as your pictures show you should definitely sand, prime and re-spay those parts and probably re-do the whole center console area; either in place or remove the pieces, this way everything will match.
that is actually a good idea. However, the handbrake, I don’t think would be able sand it? and the problem is the scratches are also around the key ignition, next to the seatbelt holder and etc. I don’t know, cause spraying it would be difficult because it’s very small and tight areas and small scratches, so it would be tough to not affected other areas. So I’m not sure, if using paint and a paint brush would work, but again, it doesn’t seem like the best idea to use a paint brush ahaha.

Have you repainted anything in your car?
And how did it turn out?
 

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Never spray paint something inside the car. Otherwise, you'll have a dusting of paint over every surface, including the inside of the windshield. If you're going to spray paint parts, they need to be removed, properly prepped, and painted in a controlled environment with good circulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Never spray paint something inside the car. Otherwise, you'll have a dusting of paint over every surface, including the inside of the windshield. If you're going to spray paint parts, they need to be removed, properly prepped, and painted in a controlled environment with good circulation.
What about using a paint brush and adding light coats of paint onto the small scratches?
 

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What about using a paint brush and adding light coats of paint onto the small scratches?
That would be fine, you just don't want to be using an aerosol paint anywhere near the car itself.
 

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If you want a close match to the Sand Beige interior - try spray cans from this link:Aerosol Water Base Color Coat - Water Base Auto Matched - Coloring Products - Categories - Superior Restoration Products These are water based paints but require a primer over the plastic (after removing existing paint) - the link also has plastic primer.
As mentioned, do not spray while parts are in the car. You could spray a spot of this on a spare piece of cardboard or other material and then use a fine bristle brush to dab that into the existing scratches if you don't want to repaint the entire piece.
How far you want to take this is up to you - most of the trim pieces are fairly easy to remove from the car but since they are plastic and old they do have a tendency to break off mounting studs, holders and other parts that are used to hold the mounting clips. Be careful.
I removed all the interior trim pieces and repainted all of them because of the large amount of scratches that exposed the black plastic underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Oka
If you want a close match to the Sand Beige interior - try spray cans from this link:Aerosol Water Base Color Coat - Water Base Auto Matched - Coloring Products - Categories - Superior Restoration Products These are water based paints but require a primer over the plastic (after removing existing paint) - the link also has plastic primer.
As mentioned, do not spray while parts are in the car. You could spray a spot of this on a spare piece of cardboard or other material and then use a fine bristle brush to dab that into the existing scratches if you don't want to repaint the entire piece.
How far you want to take this is up to you - most of the trim pieces are fairly easy to remove from the car but since they are plastic and old they do have a tendency to break off mounting studs, holders and other parts that are used to hold the mounting clips. Be careful.
I removed all the interior trim pieces and repainted all of them because of the large amount of scratches that exposed the black plastic underneath.
Okay thank you so much. Could you post some pictures of before and after if you have?
 

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you may want to consult some interior detailing/paint shops on the touch up.

on the mods, there are too many to list. really dependent on what you want.... new wheels? suspension upgrades? reducing wind/road noise? louder exhaust? perhaps drive it around first and experience the car as is before deciding anything....n
 

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Discussion Starter #28
you may want to consult some interior detailing/paint shops on the touch up.

on the mods, there are too many to list. really dependent on what you want.... new wheels? suspension upgrades? reducing wind/road noise? louder exhaust? perhaps drive it around first and experience the car as is before deciding anything....n
Well I have driven it around now for 2 months. Honestly just some inexpensive, and easy diy mods to start off with.
 

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Okay thank you so much. Could you post some pictures of before and after if you have?
Here are a few...
Removing old color - used solvent (denatured) alcohol. Let it soak and carefully scrape or wipe off.
266401


After cleaning, priming and paint:
266402

Stripping old paint:
266403

Masking the center console:
266404


If you do this, take lots of pictures of the backside of each piece. There are many clips, strips of insulation, rubber and plastic caps and other assorted things that may be tough to replace if you forget where they go!. I removed everything from each piece so the denatured alcohol would not damage everything. It would be easier (and faster) to carefully clean, prime and paint only the exposed surfaces. rather than all surfaces.
One note - if you plan on doing any of the pieces that have the speaker grills - don't bother trying to clean or paint the speaker grills - you'll never get all the old paint out of those thousands of holes and even tougher to paint them evenly. Just mask them over.
I could post more pictures but there are dozens of them.
Hope this helps.

If you are a Cayman Register member, you can see additional pictures at
Cayman Register
 

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Just came across this. Congrats on your ride. Im sure your school mates are jealous.

As a suggestion to paint, maybe consider a wrap?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Here are a few...
Removing old color - used solvent (denatured) alcohol. Let it soak and carefully scrape or wipe off.
View attachment 266401

After cleaning, priming and paint:
View attachment 266402
Stripping old paint:
View attachment 266403
Masking the center console:
View attachment 266404

If you do this, take lots of pictures of the backside of each piece. There are many clips, strips of insulation, rubber and plastic caps and other assorted things that may be tough to replace if you forget where they go!. I removed everything from each piece so the denatured alcohol would not damage everything. It would be easier (and faster) to carefully clean, prime and paint only the exposed surfaces. rather than all surfaces.
One note - if you plan on doing any of the pieces that have the speaker grills - don't bother trying to clean or paint the speaker grills - you'll never get all the old paint out of those thousands of holes and even tougher to paint them evenly. Just mask them over.
I could post more pictures but there are dozens of them.
Hope this helps.

If you are a Cayman Register member, you can see additional pictures at
Cayman Register
oh damn, that looks amazing. That looks just like new. If you have the time, I’d love to see the other pictures of the before and after paint.
also just to make sure, the paint you recommended previously, is that the one you used to paint yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Just came across this. Congrats on your ride. Im sure your school mates are jealous.

As a suggestion to paint, maybe consider a wrap?
Hey man, thanks a lot. I’m so happy and proud of it.

regarding paint, I was mostly referring to touch ups, cause there’s been some paint scratches in the interior and exterior. and Id love to keep the original paint if possible
 

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OK, I get that your friends are mocking your car choice. So, think about what what would make them think about lower, wider, stiffer, almost to a GT3 stance. What does this take, R springs or better yet, Boxster Spyder RS 60 springs, and 12mm f and 18mm rear wheel spacers to start. Then long tube catless headers and a ECU tune. Those would be on my short list for a year or so. Take your friends on a drive after installing these mods and look at their faces.
 

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oh damn, that looks amazing. That looks just like new. If you have the time, I’d love to see the other pictures of the before and after paint.
also just to make sure, the paint you recommended previously, is that the one you used to paint yours?
Yes the paint I recommended is the one I used. I looked at other interior auto paints but none were close to the existing color. Went with this product - tried a can or 2 at first and after getting good results, bought a bunch more cans and did the rest of the interior pieces.
Please note that (as with any color matching process such as paint, rugs, fabrics, etc.) there may be slight differences between different dye lots since they are made at different times. If you have many pieces, then try to buy all your cans at once to minimize any possible color variation. Please also note that exposure of the original painted parts to sunlight will fade those exposed surfaces while those deep in the interior or shade will retain their original color - so some color difference is expected - especially on older cars.
Some other pictures...(because of color temperatures of lighting for each photo - sunlight vs overhead LED lights - comparing colors between pictures may be misleading)

Interior of drivers door after painting (<sunlight>speaker panels, window switch panel and mirror control panel all painted).
266429

Rear trunk painted (<sunlight> latch panel and sides)
266430

better view (<sunlight>)...
266432

Center console after paint (<LED lights> compare to previous picture of masked console)
266433

A pillars and B pillars before paint <sunlight>
266434
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yes the paint I recommended is the one I used. I looked at other interior auto paints but none were close to the existing color. Went with this product - tried a can or 2 at first and after getting good results, bought a bunch more cans and did the rest of the interior pieces.
Please note that (as with any color matching process such as paint, rugs, fabrics, etc.) there may be slight differences between different dye lots since they are made at different times. If you have many pieces, then try to buy all your cans at once to minimize any possible color variation. Please also note that exposure of the original painted parts to sunlight will fade those exposed surfaces while those deep in the interior or shade will retain their original color - so some color difference is expected - especially on older cars.
Some other pictures...(because of color temperatures of lighting for each photo - sunlight vs overhead LED lights - comparing colors between pictures may be misleading)

Interior of drivers door after painting (<sunlight>speaker panels, window switch panel and mirror control panel all painted).
View attachment 266429
Rear trunk painted (<sunlight> latch panel and sides)
View attachment 266430
better view (<sunlight>)...
View attachment 266432
Center console after paint (<LED lights> compare to previous picture of masked console)
View attachment 266433
A pillars and B pillars before paint <sunlight>
View attachment 266434
Huge respect! that looks awesome. I will try this for sure. May I ask how long you let it dry before reassembling the parts? and did you do multiple layers, and did you paint all the parts, and then put it all together, or did you do part by part?
 

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Huge respect! that looks awesome. I will try this for sure. May I ask how long you let it dry before reassembling the parts? and did you do multiple layers, and did you paint all the parts, and then put it all together, or did you do part by part?
Thank you.
Several light coats is best. Did sections of the car (several parts) at a time. You'll see that most of them interconnect or overlap so might as well do the bunch since everything comes apart IF they all have paint issues. However if only one piece has issues then don't remove more than you need to. Once all the pieces were dry, then it was reassembled.
Make sure you shake those cans thoroughly.
Since it is water based, depending on the environment (temp and humidity) it can dry fairly quickly - within an hour usually depending on how thick you put it on. It is better to do several thin coats (no drips or runs) and after each coat inspect to make sure you covered all the underlying black plastic. Once you've got the coverage, there is no need to add thickness - that just makes it easier to scratch and become marred.
Once you're satisfied (you can always remove any mistakes with the alcohol and then respray), let the pieces sit in a warm environment for 24-48 hours. This will insure a dry coating. Note that these coatings are not as scratch resistant as a solvent based paint (but are harder than the original interior paint) - so be careful.
Prepping of parts:
1) Remove all paint from exterior surfaces with the denatured alcohol (NO Smoking or open flames!) Try not to scratch the plastic too deeply - they may show through the paint later.
2) Final clean surface with clean alcohol and then a xylene or acetone wipe - you'll still see some color (usually black or beige) on the wipe but not a problem.
3) Prime the surfaces with the plastic primer - it is also water based. You can use a soft rag or paint brush - it doesn't need to be thick - just make sure you covered all the plastic. Let it dry.
4) Paint the color coat as described above
 

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The first ‘performance ‘ mod you should invest in is a high performance driving school. When I was your age with my first car, I thought I knew how to drive, more than I really did. A stock Boxster is more than enough to get a novice into trouble in a blink of an eye.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #38
O
Thank you.
Several light coats is best. Did sections of the car (several parts) at a time. You'll see that most of them interconnect or overlap so might as well do the bunch since everything comes apart IF they all have paint issues. However if only one piece has issues then don't remove more than you need to. Once all the pieces were dry, then it was reassembled.
Make sure you shake those cans thoroughly.
Since it is water based, depending on the environment (temp and humidity) it can dry fairly quickly - within an hour usually depending on how thick you put it on. It is better to do several thin coats (no drips or runs) and after each coat inspect to make sure you covered all the underlying black plastic. Once you've got the coverage, there is no need to add thickness - that just makes it easier to scratch and become marred.
Once you're satisfied (you can always remove any mistakes with the alcohol and then respray), let the pieces sit in a warm environment for 24-48 hours. This will insure a dry coating. Note that these coatings are not as scratch resistant as a solvent based paint (but are harder than the original interior paint) - so be careful.
Prepping of parts:
1) Remove all paint from exterior surfaces with the denatured alcohol (NO Smoking or open flames!) Try not to scratch the plastic too deeply - they may show through the paint later.
2) Final clean surface with clean alcohol and then a xylene or acetone wipe - you'll still see some color (usually black or beige) on the wipe but not a problem.
3) Prime the surfaces with the plastic primer - it is also water based. You can use a soft rag or paint brush - it doesn't need to be thick - just make sure you covered all the plastic. Let it dry.
4) Paint the color coat as described above
okay, will definitely try this, this weekend. Thank you so much 😎
I’ll keep you posted with the results once I finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
The first ‘performance ‘ mod you should invest in is a high performance driving school. When I was your age with my first car, I thought I knew how to drive, more than I really did. A stock Boxster is more than enough to get a novice into trouble in a blink of an eye.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Very wise words. I will definitely take a look for this. Thank you
 
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