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Discussion Starter #21
I tried the Autogeek Quart Foamaster Foam Gun with McKee's 37 Xtreme Foam Formula over the weekend and only got about 25% of the foam I see in the videos.

The only thing I can think of was that I didn't have the water faucet knob maxed out. I will have to verify that next time. Any other ideas?

The car did end up coming out great, though.

I also used Meguiar's Wheel & Tire Kit which did wonders on the wheels, however, the tire endurance spray didn't provide that much shine and had sling off even after drying over night.
 

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The Foammaster gun your using along with a garden hose will not produce the thick foam you see on some videos. To produce thick foam you need a power washer and a foam cannon like MTM foam cannon. However, if you can live with the foam the gun is producing, price point and cleanliness of your car stay with it. Detailing can be somewhat of a money pit in search of the perfect shine and paint clarity.
 

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I'll add that if you have softened water inside your home, it will foam up better than the water from your outside spigot.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
The Foammaster gun your using along with a garden hose will not produce the thick foam you see on some videos. To produce thick foam you need a power washer and a foam cannon like MTM foam cannon. However, if you can live with the foam the gun is producing, price point and cleanliness of your car stay with it. Detailing can be somewhat of a money pit in search of the perfect shine and paint clarity.
I do have a pressure washing sitting in my shed. You're suggesting that using that instead of a garden hose would work better?
 

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Your foam gun is only rated at 40-90 psi. You would need a foam cannon that can accept the higher pressure of a pressure washer.
 

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I wash my car about every week (I live on a dirt road), and wax/detail it about twice a year. For light dust I have a california duster in the trunk. As far as products - I have a grit guard in the bottom of my bucket, a microfiber mitt, a dedicated wheel brush, good quality microfiber towels (you get what you pay for), and use McGuires soap and wheel cleaner. For the bulk of waxing I use McGuires liquid on a power detailer, and grab the nooks and crannies by hand. My garage has an open floor plan, drains in the floor, and ample light - so I'm able to pull the car in, showroom park it, close the doors, and have at it (I also have a tv on the wall). The entire house is on a filter (well water). Don't wash a car immediately after it's been driven or been sitting in the sun - let it cool down. I soak the entire car from the top down, and then clean the wheels 1 at a time (re-soak, mist with the cleaner, have at it with the brush, rinse). Dump and rinse the bucket, refill it with car wash and water. Raise the rear wing, Re-soak the car, pre-wet the wash mitt before putting it in the soap. I start with the glass - it makes sure the soap is in the mitt and then I go from the roof down. Some people talk about using one wash mitt above the water line, and another below - With a grit guard and proper reloading of the mitt I don't see this as necessary. However - I work from the top down, walking laps around the car and don't bring dirt back up the paint. rinse really well. When I'm drying the car I start with the glass - I pre-wet the towel and wring it out, and then start with the glass. It's a surface I can't scratch just in case there's something with the towel I'm using. Drape and pull the towel, don't rub, wring it out frequently. Then, pop the frunk and hatch, and grab the doors. Do the wheels last with a different towel. To really seal the deal - hand wax the side and rear windows, and the mirrors. When you wash your towels and mitt - either line dry, or run them through the drier without a drier sheet...
 
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