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Hi,

I started getting the dreaded oil overfill message a couple of weeks ago, and I was about due to change the oil as part of my yearly maintenance on my low mileage 2014 Cayman S and figured I'd change the oil early and make sure that the oil was drained completely.

I drained the oil carefully and as completely as I could. Removed and changed the oil filter and added back in exactly 7.5 liters of oil.

I used my Durametric tool to reset the oil change interval and thought I'd check what the oil level sensor was reporting in real time.

I was amazed to find out that the sensor was reporting back in 1000's of mm! It looks like there were several feet of oil in the car.

Has anyone else ever put a Durametric tool on their car when it was reporting an overfill condition? I wonder what the correct level in mm is supposed to be?

I have to think that perhaps the sensor is malfunctioning.

Thanks,

-Jim
 

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2016 Porsche Cayman
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I don't have a Durametric but like many members, I drained the old oil for 2 hours and followed the recommended 7.5 liters fresh refill on my first DIY oil change. Level indicator was initially good at the max green bar but got oil over fill warning after a month later. On my second oil change, I added less to hit the second green bar from the max only but stabilized to the max green after driving for couple of days. I agree that it's sensitive to overfill.
 

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981CaymanS
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It's best if you leave the oil level one notch below the MAX line, but if you already overfilled the engine just remove and empty the oil filter housing and re-measure the level again
 

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Some information below that might help.

I had a durametric and ditched because of the bogus information it provided a lot of the time. Loads of error codes that didn't exist and a lot of incorrect values (temps, pressures, etc) that clearly couldn't occur came from it. In the end I had very little confidence that what it told me was correct. Hence the reason for going down the PIWIS path, which will give you the correct information every time.

With regards to oil filling, I've looked at the oil level output from PIWIS just out of curiosity when doing an oil change and seeing what happens when it's warmed to operating temp to the point where you get the indications on the MFD.

These numbers are just my best guess from when I did the oil change, as I didn't take that much notice. When I initially filled cold I think the level was about 55mm. When warmed and getting a reading of full, the same amount of oil was reading about 72mm. These may not have been the exact numbers, but it was something like this. What did stick in my memory was the significant rising level of the oil in the sump as the temperature increased.

This told me that if I ever decided to use the PIWIS level readout for filling, I would need to be careful to know exactly what the cold level needed to be in order to achieve the correct warm level. I decided to not venture down this path.

I don't put in 7.5L. I put in a bit over 7L and just see how that goes. It's never going to run dry at this level and you can safely see what the outcome is going to be without the risk of overfilling. 7L gets you one or two notches low, like in the middle of the high and low on a normal dipstick. If you want to add a little more later you can.
 

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I always measure what I take out, then put the same amount back in, plus about a cup to account for oil absorbed into the filter. I usually still have to top off a bit once warm, but never overfill anymore.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
This is the third time I’ve changed the oil in my car and each time I’ve followed the same procedure of fully draining the oil, changing the filter, and adding in exactly 7.5 liters of oil. The first two times the oil level was just about at the top bar or just below. This time the oil level showed overfilled with the message on the dash. I drained out nearly a liter of oil and it was still showing overfilled. The Durametric was just used to see what the sensor was reporting in real time and it was 1000’s of millimeters. I have to think that the sensor is bad and reporting erroneously.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I’m going to drain the oil, replace the sensor, and refill with the same amount as before.

-Jim
 

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I drained out nearly a liter of oil and it was still showing overfilled.
Sorry, did you drive the car/get it fully up to temp before you checked the reading? It will not give you a new reading (just the last one) until you have warmed the car up fully, and then waited 60+ seconds after shutting the car off.
 

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Yeah, the 981 is a finicky beast when it comes to the oil checking process on the electronic gauge

You need to open the hatch for at least 45 seconds after any changes you make to the level which resets the oil information back to baseline again. The car assumes that this has already occurred because you have the rear hatch open long enough to add oil to to the car after the oil change, but you will have to initiate this sequence manually if you’re under the car removing oil instead without the rear hatch open

Once resent, you will need to drive the car for sometime and the oil must be up to full operating temp before you will get a new reading. You will get a message telling you that no oil information is available at the time once you do the hatch reset, and In some cases I’ve had to drive my car for many miles before this “no oil information available” message after reset cleared and fresh data is shown, even if the car is at running temp

Not fulfilling these requirements means that the gauge is just showing you all the information from a time back when these prerequisites were met which could have been days ago. This is why we see stories like this of people removing oil, yet the gauge still telling them that nothing has changed

The 981 is not like the 987, and you cannot wait and get a cold reading the following day after all the oil has drained back down into the pan like you can on the 987.
Doing this on a 981 will result in you being shown old readings from the day before when the car was last warmed up and met the pre-requisite‘s as stated above.

The reason I mention this is people are constantly sharing their methods or experiences for checking oil, but many times they are not differentiating between the 987 and 981 which are not the same and do use the same methods. Attached is a very detailed explanation on how the overcomplicated 981 oil gauges works.
 

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