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Discussion Starter #1
Have been getting P0301 in 06 Cayman S intermittently for some time. Tried running Techron for a while, didn't seem to do much help. So, mechanic replaced all coils and sparkplugs, car being older anyways. But, engine light came back, same code, P0301. Car is completely stock, about 135k miles, parked in a garage, driven in California with no rain/inclement weather. Car idles a bit rough when cold, seems fine when warmed up. Occasionally catch the CEL blinking on cold idle. Have done lots of searching, lots of people suggest swapping coils/plugs, but all have been changed. Some say could be air oil separator? Other thoughts?
 

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PCA Nat'l DE Instructor
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Clean the mass air flow sensor, using oil-free MAF sensor cleaner., and check for oil film/puddling in the intake ducting . Clean the throttle body and intake runners as required. Check/replace the air oil separator.

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Discussion Starter #3
Clean the mass air flow sensor, using oil-free MAF sensor cleaner., and check for oil film/puddling in the intake ducting . Clean the throttle body and intake runners as required. Check/replace the air oil separator.

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Thank you!!
 

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PCA Nat'l DE Instructor
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You're welcome. That was quite the delayed response! Did you finally get a round tuit?

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Discussion Starter #5
You're welcome. That was quite the delayed response! Did you finally get a round tuit?

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Heading to harbor freight today to grab temperproof torx bits and trim removal tools. Fingers crossed on just cleaning the maf...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is a FIVE point security torx (not 6) securing the maf to the car. Is that factory?? :cry:
 

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You could simply remove the housing containing the MAF sensor, and clean it on the bench. You should also remove the tee duct containing the throttle body, and the flex hose between the MAF sensor and the TB. There's likely oil inside the intake manifolds downstream of the tee duct. Use clean shop rags, and your choice of solvent, to remove any traces of oil from the engine air intake ducting. Remember to use only oil-free solvent on the MAF sensor.
It's a messy, time-consuming process, but it needs to be done as thoroughly as possible to preclude fouling the MAF sensor again. You should check the AOS function using a vacuum gauge on the oil fill cap with the engine idling (IDK the acceptable value, so I'll leave it to you to do a search). Carefully reinstall everything (b/c you don't want to introduce a vacuum leak) and you should be good to go.

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Discussion Starter #10
You could simply remove the housing containing the MAF sensor, and clean it on the bench. You should also remove the tee duct containing the throttle body, and the flex hose between the MAF sensor and the TB. There's likely oil inside the intake manifolds downstream of the tee duct. Use clean shop rags, and your choice of solvent, to remove any traces of oil from the engine air intake ducting. Remember to use only oil-free solvent on the MAF sensor.
It's a messy, time-consuming process, but it needs to be done as thoroughly as possible to preclude fouling the MAF sensor again. You should check the AOS function using a vacuum gauge on the oil fill cap with the engine idling (IDK the acceptable value, so I'll leave it to you to do a search). Carefully reinstall everything (b/c you don't want to introduce a vacuum leak) and you should be good to go.

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Good ideas! Thank you. Much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You could simply remove the housing containing the MAF sensor, and clean it on the bench. You should also remove the tee duct containing the throttle body, and the flex hose between the MAF sensor and the TB. There's likely oil inside the intake manifolds downstream of the tee duct. Use clean shop rags, and your choice of solvent, to remove any traces of oil from the engine air intake ducting. Remember to use only oil-free solvent on the MAF sensor.
It's a messy, time-consuming process, but it needs to be done as thoroughly as possible to preclude fouling the MAF sensor again. You should check the AOS function using a vacuum gauge on the oil fill cap with the engine idling (IDK the acceptable value, so I'll leave it to you to do a search). Carefully reinstall everything (b/c you don't want to introduce a vacuum leak) and you should be good to go.

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If there's a lot of oil in the tube from the aos to the intake system would it be fair to assume the aos is toast?
 

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Not necessarily. But I'd just replace it anyway. Also, I suggest keeping the oil level no higher than 1 bar below the full marking (or two bars below the top of the bar gauge), to reduce the likelihood of oil ingestion, foaming, etc.

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Discussion Starter #13
Swapped the AOS. That clamp on the bottom took me a solid 90 minutes to get on and off. There was a tad of oil in the air tube from the AO. Didn't have enough time to clean everything after, but shot the MAF down with cleaner (though it already appeared clean as a whistle). Cold idle is smoooooth now.

Thanks for your help @Croc'ed
 

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Swapped the AOS. That clamp on the bottom took me a solid 90 minutes to get on and off. There was a tad of oil in the air tube from the AO. Didn't have enough time to clean everything after, but shot the MAF down with cleaner (though it already appeared clean as a whistle). Cold idle is smoooooth now.

Thanks for your help @Croc'ed
You're welcome. I'm glad your car is running properly again.

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Discussion Starter #15
Update for whoever comes across this thread in the future:

Did all the above (replacing aos and cleaning maf) on a short time schedule hoping the CEL would not come back. Well, it did. Taking the t duct off and Cleaning out inside alllll the intake ducting with some towels and simple green seems to have done the trick. There was some oil, small amounts, kicking around in there. Cold idle also much smoother now.

Thanks again croc'ed!!
 
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