[toma nova]

I’m driving three days at COTA next weekend in Blue (novice – instructed) and want opinions on whether my new OE Textar front pads will be upto the back straight challenge. I expect ~130mph before braking, maybe an occasional 140mph if no traffic. I would think my MPSS would be the limiting factor, I just want to make sure I don’t wear the pads so low that it cuts my weekend short.

If this goes well, I’ll be looking for 18” lighter wheels,track tires, and track pads!

Thanks,
Tom

 

[zedcat]

You should be fine with new OE pads for a 3 day event at COTA in blue. How about brake fluid? Do you have fresh high temp fluid? I've seen more cases of boiled fluid than pad issues. As the day progresses, any sign of pedal becoming soft, you may need to bleed the fluid.

First time at COTA? I'll be there in blue GT4 432.

 

[RhythmAddict0]

Agree with previous poster. Pads are a nice to have, but fluid I would do for sure. You don't want to have no brakes at the end of the straight....

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[toma nova]

I've got fresh Motul RBF600 fluid. First time at COTA and I'm not quite ready to go to track pads yet.

Tom #290

 

[RhythmAddict0]

Enjoy!

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[CGH3]

Whenever you change pads, remember the rears. They seem to wear at almost the same rate. I'd also look at your rotors, which I assume are cross-drilled. If you don't see any thermal cracks emanating from any of the little holes, that's a good sign that you haven't really driven hot and braked hard into low-speed turns. Which means you shouldn't worry.

 

[ereynold60]

I've only used Pagid RS29 pads at COTA... no experience there with stock pads or the like. You'll probably be OK with a fresh set of Textar OE pads, but you'll likely need new pads after the 3 day event. I would buy a spare set now and take them to COTA as 'insurance'.

 

[husker boxster]

Agree with others - you'll be fine with new pads and fresh brake fluid. Check your left front pad after the event. That's the corner that takes the most pounding as there are multiple left corners that are > 90 deg.

You should have no trouble hitting 130+ with your car. My 303hp almost gets to 130, so your extra 20hp will get you on the north side of 130.

Top tip - when you are done with a session, take the exit road to the tunnel (like you're exiting the track) rather than going to your parking area to assist with cooling your rotors off. COTA officials do not want you to slow down on the last lap of a session, so your rotors don't get much of a chance to cool off. I take the exit road and turn around just before I get to the tunnel. I warped my LF rotor after my first DE at COTA. Doing the extra cool off has prevented that the last 2 trips there.

 

[lovetoturn]

Great comments above.

When will that scenario with stock pads not work?

A good yellow or white driver likely won't make it through the weekend on stock pads with aggressive driving, or if you have Comp-R tires. For events like this, your pads are done when they are about 60% worn. You need that other 40% to act as insulation for the heat not to make into the brake fluid and cause it to boil. Don't want a failure at the end of turn 12 from 130-145mph or you will end up in the gravel trap and or the wall.

 

[Porschebab1]

Agree with others - you'll be fine with new pads and fresh brake fluid. Check your left front pad after the event. That's the corner that takes the most pounding as there are multiple left corners that are > 90 deg.

You should have no trouble hitting 130+ with your car. My 303hp almost gets to 130, so your extra 20hp will get you on the north side of 130.

Top tip - when you are done with a session, take the exit road to the tunnel (like you're exiting the track) rather than going to your parking area to assist with cooling your rotors off. COTA officials do not want you to slow down on the last lap of a session, so your rotors don't get much of a chance to cool off. I take the exit road and turn around just before I get to the tunnel. I warped my LF rotor after my first DE at COTA. Doing the extra cool off has prevented that the last 2 trips there.

If you are getting sensations in the steering wheel like your rotors are warped it is more than likely pad deposits from using pads that can’t handle the heat. In my years of working on track cars I have only see one warped rotor and that was because the rotor had a material defect. All other rotors that seemed warped we’re pad deposits. If any of you feel like you have warped rotors switch to a full track pad like Pagid RS29 or Hawk DTC 70 and you will likely never have that warped rotor feeling again....although you will likely wear rotors quicker with a more aggressive pad like the Pagid or Hawk.

 

[RhythmAddict0]

If you are getting sensations in the steering wheel like your rotors are warped it is more than likely pad deposits from using pads that can’t handle the heat. In my years of working on track cars I have only see one warped rotor and that was because the rotor had a material defect. All other rotors that seemed warped we’re pad deposits. If any of you feel like you have warped rotors switch to a full track pad like Pagid RS29 or Hawk DTC 70 and you will likely never have that warped rotor feeling again....although you will likely wear rotors quicker with a more aggressive pad like the Pagid or Hawk.

I have warped rotors before, just not in a track readyish car. Basically wet conditions, heavy Audi s4 (3.9k lbs), stock rotors. Think it'd be much tougher in a 981.

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[husker boxster]

If you are getting sensations in the steering wheel like your rotors are warped it is more than likely pad deposits from using pads that can’t handle the heat. In my years of working on track cars I have only see one warped rotor and that was because the rotor had a material defect. All other rotors that seemed warped we’re pad deposits. If any of you feel like you have warped rotors switch to a full track pad like Pagid RS29 or Hawk DTC 70 and you will likely never have that warped rotor feeling again....although you will likely wear rotors quicker with a more aggressive pad like the Pagid or Hawk.

It wasn't dust build-up. Must have happened late on day 3 since I didn't feel it on the track but on the trip home. This was my first DE at COTA. I would exit the track after a hot last lap, then park the car in my garage space. Once I got home a couple days later, I removed the front rotors and took them to a local parts store for trimming. They called me a little later and said the left one was too warped to true up. I replaced them with a stock Bosch model and make sure I do enough cool down after a session. At COTA, that means some extra driving on the access roads. At Indy, they allow a bit slower cool off 1/2 lap (we exit at T7 rather than going clear around to pit entrance) but I still do some extra cool off before hitting the garage. Haven't had any issues since my 1st COTA DE and I still have those rotors.

 

[toma nova]

OE Texstar pads have about 1/2 thickness left after 3 days / 4 sessions per day at COTA. Hard braking from ~115 into Turn 1, ~110 into Turn 11, and 130+ into Turn 12 - all are much tighter than 90* and are 30-40mph turns (I think, not watching the speedo too much). The pads are fine for the street and AX but I'll need to replace them before the next DE. I did some cool down driving after exiting the track each session.

MPSS performed very well, outside shoulders look fine (-1.5 camber on stock suspension). A little greasy when over 38psi as expected. Blue Solo was a blast, almost easier to focus just on driving with no conversation going on. Awesome instructor, he came out on the last session and I had a chance to follow him with very little traffic.

Overall, a great weekend at a fantastic facility!

Tom

 

[husker boxster]

COTA is definitely a blast. Great facility and layout. Hard not to have a great time there. Always leaves you checking the calendar for the next event there.

 

[DFW]

If you are getting sensations in the steering wheel like your rotors are warped it is more than likely pad deposits from using pads that can’t handle the heat. In my years of working on track cars I have only see one warped rotor and that was because the rotor had a material defect. All other rotors that seemed warped we’re pad deposits. If any of you feel like you have warped rotors switch to a full track pad like Pagid RS29 or Hawk DTC 70 and you will likely never have that warped rotor feeling again....although you will likely wear rotors quicker with a more aggressive pad like the Pagid or Hawk.

I agree entirely.
If you experience that shuddering during street braking after a track day, just wet your rotors before shutting it down for the evening.
The next morning, stab hard on the brakes during your first 2 or 3, 0-30 runs and you'll find that the rotors are suddenly unwarped.
It's actually the water getting between the deposits and the iron in the rotors overnight and creating a micro layer of rust (oxidation), which comes off easily in those first few brake stabs.
At least that's my experience.

 

[lovetoturn]

Awesome idea DFW. Just let the rust formation break loose the deposits. My car is always in the garage so I wouldn't think to do that.

 

[Craig911]

CHECK your BACK PADS as well....PSM no matter how much its shut off....rear brakes are activated way more than you think. And those rears are small....same since 1997