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My Winter project is modernizing my PCM and I thought I would chronicle it here in case someone finds the information useful.

Current plans are:
  • Clone the HD to an SSD and replace it
  • Install the Joyeauto CarPlay module
  • Check the make/model of the LCD to see if a direct capacitance-based replacement is available.
 

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I don’t have a computer setup that makes it easy to plug in a SATA drive or two, so I purchased a drive cloner for CDN$60:


I also ordered the following SSD to replace the Toshiba MK1060GSC that was in the PCM:


It is apparently important that the new drive be at least slightly larger than the old one.
 

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Removal of the PCM was easier than I expected. There are lots of instructions on this board for taking apart the console area (thanks Westcoaster!). I found this YouTube video very good (if somewhat boring):


Essentially you pry the side panels off the shifter area using a vinyl pry tool (carefully) and once you are sure all the clips have been released you gently pull each panel back toward you away from the dash. The video makes it very clear.

The PCM comes out easily with a T-25 bit. I didn’t have a screwdriver that size, so I used a socket wrench and extension. There are four bolts near the bottom of the left and right sides of the PCM. Just be careful you don’t let them fall down.

As you can see in the video it is a very good idea to cover the working area with a microfiber cloth or two to prevent the metal of the PCM from scratching your HVAC controls while you are trying to unplug the cables from the back.

On my unit there were three single antenna-type cables which need to be removed by depressing a tap on the top of them and wiggling them loose. A very bad picture of the back of my unit when it was just out of the dash:

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The singular cables are colour-coded so you can’t get them wrong when re-assembling. The large collection of cables are all removed at once in one large black plug by pulling down on a lever that is integrated into the plug itself. You can (if you are careful) remove all the plugs singularly but I don’t recommend it. Once you find and pull on the lever they all come out easily (you can see the lever on the left side of large black plug.
 

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I don’t have a computer setup that makes it easy to plug in a SATA drive or two, so I purchased a drive cloner for CDN$60:


I also ordered the following SSD to replace the Toshiba MK1060GSC that was in the PCM:


It is apparently important that the new drive be at least slightly larger than the old one.
What only 120GB?, well I guess that is 'slightly' larger... ;)

Glad to hear that fun has begun, look forward to reading with interest!
 

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To remove the hard drive you will need a T-8 driver. It looks like the entire unit is put together with screws with T-8 heads, but I can't be sure yet. On the top of the unit you will see a port that looks suspiciously about the size of a 2.5" hard drive:

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Yes, that sticker you see means that you will be telling Porsche that you have taken apart your PCM and voided any warrantee you may have had on it. I don't think many people still have a warrantee on their 981 head unit, but you've been warned.

There are two T-8s on either side of the panel which you can see in the picture have already been removed. Once that is done you just need to pry up on the right side (in the picture). The HD is attached to the panel so it comes up with it as you tilt it up.

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And that is as far as I have gotten for now. My new SSD and copier is scheduled to arrive next Thursday. I have no idea when the CarPlay unit will get here as it is, I believe, on a slow boat from China. My plan is to clone the drive, install it and test it before I start the CarPlay install. I believe as part of the CarPlay module install I will be removing the LCD so I will check at that time to see if I can find any distinguishing markings on it. Capacitance touch displays are much much better than force touch so this would be a nice upgrade if possible.
 

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What only 120GB?, well I guess that is 'slightly' larger... ;)

Glad to hear that fun has begun, look forward to reading with interest!
Yes, well I suspect you know a bit more about storage technology than I do. :) I don't know what the guts of the PCM are yet, and I have no idea what it could theoretically address, but I didn't want to buy something it's BIOS couldn't recognize.

That said, I believe that with the cloning I am going to get a partition(s) with exactly the same parameters as the source drive. So even if I purchased a 2TB drive I would still only have 100MB after it was cloned.
 

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So I started the install of the CarPlay unit by JoyeAuto today instead of the SSD. I live in Canada. Beautiful country Canada, but pretty horrible services. My CarPlay package arrived from China faster than my package from Toronto (which, naturally was shipped by a domestic courier company). Oh, and cell phone plans are rubbish in this country too.

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So removal of the faceplate is relatively easy. You just remove the four T8s (two on the top and two on the bottom). The bottom ones are slightly longer. Then you pull up on the faceplate and push in on the four (two on each side) tabs to release it. Be careful because there are two ribbon cables attached. Both cables will have to be removed from the faceplate.

Doing the surgery on the head unit was mostly about ribbon cables. If you don't know your way around them and their connectors you may want to get some help. Ribbon cables are not "keyed" per se, so they will go into their connectors one of two ways. Only one way is correct and you have to know which it is. To release a ribbon cable from a connector you have to pull up on both sides of the connector to loosen it. You can do this one side at a time, and you need to be careful to do it without damaging anything. They make pullers for this, but I don't have any anymore.
 

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There are three T8s on the back of the unit that need to be removed and then the top slides forward and you can separate the top from the bottom (which I think is mostly the CD unit). Again, once you separate them you have another ribbon cable to deal with that connects the halves together.

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It is worth noting at this point that the instructions included with this kit from Joyeauto are total garbage. And the video available on YouTube contains sketchy English subtitles for a previous version. I did this by looking at the video and the included one 8x11" page and using these a vague ideas of what was going on figured it out myself. If you plan to do this yourself you should PM me and we should chat.

On the right side of the picture above you will see a board, metal heat shield and black wire on a module. This module doesn't show up in any instructions or videos. It turns out that it is a Sirius satellite module (which I don't have). At one point in the past my PCM died and was replaced by Porsche. I guess they only had one with the sat module installed and I suppose they just disabled it with PIWIS or something.

The CarPlay daughterboard has a connector that needs to exit the head unit and connect to an off-board computer that you stuff somewhere in your dash. This connector has to go somewhere. The video has this coming out of the plate which on my unit is the egress of this satellite antenna. I'm telling you this because if you actually have satellite radio you have to problems:

1. You'll have to disconnect this plate and leave your satellite antenna just hanging out the back of your unit so you can accommodate this connector (not a big deal really)
2. The broken English instructions on the YouTube video say something about you never being able to use your satellite radio again. I have no idea, but if you have sat radio and you really like it this may not be the kit for you.

I don't have satellite radio (I guess), so I actually removed the black wire you see above and the plate so it was easy for me to route the connector out.
 

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In order to clear my non-functioning satellite radio card I doubled up on the brass posts that they include and it perfectly clears it. Obviously they designed / give you what you need to make this work. You install the posts, re-install the ribbon cables and plug them into the new card. This is how it looks with the board installed inside the unit:

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Again, on the right side you see a small connector labeled LVDS. This is where the external CarPlay connector plugs in.
 

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They supply you with two extra ribbon cables. These plug into the board on the connectors you can see on my last post and then connect back to the front faceplate. Once you connect those you can button the whole thing back up.

Joyeauto supplies you with a giant cable that plugs into the back of your head unit and then splits off into all kinds of things as well as a connector that you ultimately plug back into your car. You need to connect up the audio cable, the data cable and a cable they call "power" but which has probably 14 connectors on it. These all connect in one way or another back into the giant trunk cable they supply you with. When it is all connected it looks something like this:

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The Joyeauto has connectors for your front and back cameras if you have them. I have no cameras. This unit obviously can accommodate all kinds of different car configurations and I don't envy what they had to go through to make all of this work. Somehow when I plugged it all back into the car the damn thing worked. You have to switch your audio input to AUX and then you long-press the NAVI button and boom, up it comes.

It can do Wireless CarPlay and it works, but I haven't figured out the whole WIFI vs Bluetooth thing. The instructions tell you that you should check to see if the unit is broadcasting a wifi name (which it was), but then they tell you not to use that and to connect it up via bluetooth. I don't know why the wifi is there if it isn't used, but perhaps CarPlay uses it in the background. No idea.

I don't yet have cables properly routed -- that will be tomorrow's job. My current issue (pardon the pun) is that the unit comes with a wire connected to a fuse which they want you to plug into an "ACC" socket. At the moment I have that plugged into the fuse socket for the glovebox 12v power outlet. This outlet shuts off after 30m. I would prefer one that didn't keep the Joyeauto unit powered up that long, but I haven't found the right one. I'm going to have to do some more experimenting. Replacing the PCM fuse with this one seems to have the same effect (stays on long after the car is shut off and locked). If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear them.

One last thought for today. The force touch is actually not bad on these units. Right now I don't feel the need to replace the screen as it seems to work just fine with CarPlay.
 

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@canux congrats on getting this all put together, great pictures as well, it looks like the daughterboard fits inside the PCM case nicely, well done!

I too found the biggest challenge about adding anything to the Porsche was finding a home for the wires and any external module, after that the ACC power, I will see if I recorded or took a picture of where I connected in for the NAV-TV box I installed in to my 981 and let you know.
 

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Wireless CarPlay does use WiFi but it initially connects via Bluetooth and connects WiFi on its own.

Our installer stuck the MOST HUR31 in a space to the left of the back of the space that the PCM takes up. It is just enough space for that module. That area ends up being behind the driver side dash and just a bit under the right side of the instrument cluster if I recall correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well, I got the job finished today. The cheap and cheerful disk cloning device I purchased worked without a hitch (I wasn't paying attention but it seemed like it took under an hour to duplicate the disk). The new SSD is super light compared to the old drive, and the PCM seems more responsive overall.

I removed the HVAC control box and tucked the CarPlay box underneath it in a slot between the HVAC controls and the PCM. It just fit and is nice and snug under there so it shouldn't rattle around. For the power I found that the left footwell fuse box Row D, Fuse slot #3 is "Unused" according to the manual, but has connectors and also turns on and off with the ACC. So I routed the wire below the glovebox (on top of the foam) and then down the inside of the right side of the passenger footwell. It is all as clean as it could be.

Used lots of twist ties and cleaned up the wiring as best as I could and put it all back together. I put the mic behind the steering wheel poking out from the right side trim piece. I haven't been for a drive, but it doesn't seem to have any problem picking up my voice right there.

The only downside from what I can tell to using Fuse Passenger D-3 is that ACC actually now has to be ON to use the PCM at all. Pressing the volume knob while the car is off does nothing now. I'm okay with that, but not everyone would be. I would rather have that than the CarPlay unit draining the battery for 30m after the car has been turned off.

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For the record, I sent an e-mail to Joyeauto asking for detailed instructions when I first got the unit and I never heard anything back from them. Just an acknowledgement (in Chinese) that they had received the e-mail. I am painfully aware that if this unit goes bad I'm out my money and time. Let's see how long it lasts.

Oh, and while the picture above is pretty bad, if you look carefully you can see the microphone at the top left in front of the carbon trim. For me it is hidden by the steering wheel because I didn't want to be looking at it. It comes with a long cable and a clip so if I was very ambitious I could remove the a-pillar trim, some headliner, and clip it to the visor or something. I'm pretty tall though and I didn't want it distracting me.

Edit: Apparently I lied about using the PCM without the key in. The PCM works normally, you just can’t long-press the Nav button to get into CarPlay.
 

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For those interested, I found another video that explains the unit and install very well. It didn't have joyeauto in the title so I was lucky to stumble across it. The install is into a 991 but apart from that it seems to be identical.

 

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@canux congrats on the completion, great that all went well too, sorry I couldn't find where I took power from, if my car wasn't already gone it would have been a simple matter to go and look! ;)
 

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canux, why did you decide to go with the joyeauto CarPlay vs the NM automotive (from the UK)

Well, I got the job finished today. The cheap and cheerful disk cloning device I purchased worked without a hitch (I wasn't paying attention but it seemed like it took under an hour to duplicate the disk). The new SSD is super light compared to the old drive, and the PCM seems more responsive overall.

I removed the HVAC control box and tucked the CarPlay box underneath it in a slot between the HVAC controls and the PCM. It just fit and is nice and snug under there so it shouldn't rattle around. For the power I found that the left footwell fuse box Row D, Fuse slot #3 is "Unused" according to the manual, but has connectors and also turns on and off with the ACC. So I routed the wire below the glovebox (on top of the foam) and then down the inside of the right side of the passenger footwell. It is all as clean as it could be.

Used lots of twist ties and cleaned up the wiring as best as I could and put it all back together. I put the mic behind the steering wheel poking out from the right side trim piece. I haven't been for a drive, but it doesn't seem to have any problem picking up my voice right there.

The only downside from what I can tell to using Fuse Passenger D-3 is that ACC actually now has to be ON to use the PCM at all. Pressing the volume knob while the car is off does nothing now. I'm okay with that, but not everyone would be. I would rather have that than the CarPlay unit draining the battery for 30m after the car has been turned off.

View attachment 266397

For the record, I sent an e-mail to Joyeauto asking for detailed instructions when I first got the unit and I never heard anything back from them. Just an acknowledgement (in Chinese) that they had received the e-mail. I am painfully aware that if this unit goes bad I'm out my money and time. Let's see how long it lasts.

Oh, and while the picture above is pretty bad, if you look carefully you can see the microphone at the top left in front of the carbon trim. For me it is hidden by the steering wheel because I didn't want to be looking at it. It comes with a long cable and a clip so if I was very ambitious I could remove the a-pillar trim, some headliner, and clip it to the visor or something. I'm pretty tall though and I didn't want it distracting me.

Edit: Apparently I lied about using the PCM without the key in. The PCM works normally, you just can’t long-press the Nav button to get into CarPlay.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
canux, why did you decide to go with the joyeauto CarPlay vs the NM automotive (from the UK)
It seems like all these units are all the same Chinese OEM. I was originally going to go with NM for the better documentation and support but then they seemed to back off selling them to non-dealer enthusiasts like myself. I suspect they ended up with really high support costs.

So I ended up just buying the unit from AliExpress for less money.
 

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Nice writeup! Just curious if the pcm is still fully functional (navigation and integration into instrument cluster).
The PCM is still fully functional. As far as I can tell nothing has changed except switching into CarPlay with a long-press of the Nav button. It’s a long story, but I have never had map integration in the instrument cluster so I can’t guarantee that to work. Don’t see why that would have changed though.
 
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