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Porsche Short Shift Kit DIY Guide

30681 Views 23 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  MarioG
We just picked up a 2010 Boxster S last week and the first mod had to be the Porsche Short Shift Kit purchased from Suncoast. I had a chance to install this today and took some pics to assemble a DIY guide:

Porsche 987 Short Shift Kit DIY Guide

Took me about 1.5 hours pausing to take pics, I'm not sure how Porsche charges 2 hours for this job with a clear conscience ;)

This is really the shifter all S models should have been delivered with- shorter and more precise feeling.
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Superb write up with terrific pictures. An essential mod.

For those of you with RS 60 style shift knob - there is no center cap to the knob so don't try to pry it up. Just pull knob straight up and off.
I think getting the center console completely out is the hardest part.
Very nice whr3! I'm adding the short throw shifter to my car. I figured I would be able to stumble through removing all the parts, but with your pics I'll know exactly how everything comes apart. Thanks!
While I put in a different kit, I totally agree that it is one of the first mods for the car. The only things I did before this were the front grilles and the DasSchild to protect the underside of the frunk. Great write up and great would have helped my installation. Though for me the hardest part was removing the bearings from the stock cage to fit the new shifter mechanism into it. It is clear using the Porsche SS is a lot easier.
I am a CS owner, I bought this short shifter kit from ebay and trying to install it myself. Because I do not see how they can charge 2hrs of labor. Anyways I am having a really big trouble with removing the leather boot. Is there specific way to remove it? I tried everything for last few weeks.
I am starting to wonder if my CS already has a SSK. Is there a way to tell?
Just pinch the boot at the front and lift to unsnap, once the four snaps are released you can pull it towards the front of the car to release the clips in the rear- I have some pics on my write-up that better illustrate this. The part number should be on a sticker on the shifter, that would tell you whether it is the SSK or not.
Great pictures and write up... I do have a few additional comments that I hope are helpful.
1) Make sure NOT to turn the ignition of the car on while that electrical harness is disconnected, or you'll throw some sort of code (passenger airbag, I think) that requires a Durametric
2) IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to make note of how deep each of the cables is in the original linkages.. then duplicate that depth on the new linkages... Ask me how I know... (I took the console off 3 times to get the shifter feel "just right")
3) I'm not sure it is absolutely necessary to disassemble the shift knob and boot... With effort I can pull the whole combo off the shaft.
What will you do with the original? I'd like it to fiddle with if you have no reason to keep it.
Very nice write up. If only I had this when I installed my SSK on the Cayman. It would've helped a lot considering I'm a picture type guy.

I found it hardest trying to get the cap off without scratching it.


Very nice write up...btw, disassembling the knob is not necessary..
just pull the boot up, turn the bottom portion then the knob should come off..
the boot and the knob should come off as one piece..
WOw, nice pictures and easy step by step directions. I'm considering doing too, only drawback i heard was that is can be rather stiff in cold weather until the car warms-up any feedback on that?
Mine's pretty stiff every morning, but not too much of a problem. I think it's expected.
As for the short shifter, you get used to it and hardly notice it.
Excellent instructions and useful pictures. Put in my SSK today. A few notes to add:

1. If you have the Bose Sub-woofer you will need to remove that first and reinstall it last. Check out the article for the Sub-woofer fix. You'll need a T-25 for that. The brackets that the Sub-woofer attaches to makes this a bit more difficult as you can't pivot the center console up as far to dettach-reattach the wiring harness. I cracked the backing of the passenger air back warning light cover when I tried to lift it up. Love crazy glue.

2. The socket needed for the shifter frame is a 10mm of at least medium depth as the bolt sticks up over the nut a little bit.

3. On my 2006 CS the storage compartment bottom (after removing the rubber mat) only covered the bottom and allowed for all four screws to be removed at the same time rather than the 3, lift, and then 1 in the instructions. The bottom has a tab in the front so lift from the rear after removing the four screws. There is a hole underneath so don't wait the get the fourth screw out.

4. Followed others advice and marked the cable positions with a Sharpie though they didn't seem to move much during re-install. Also, didn't take apart the shift knob - just twist the lower part 45% clockwise and lift straight up strongly as mentioned.

5. Clean everything while you have it apart! Finally got all the split coffee stains out from the stupid cup holders. Sigh.

5. I agree it is a bit stiffer. Didn't make a huge difference I guess because the S shifter is already 10% shorter than the non-S version but I do like the difference. The extra stiffness makes it easier to shift quickly since I always held off a bit on the old shifter since it seemed a little 'light'. Pleased :)
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I took the center console back out today since I apparently bent one of the pins of the control unit in the console (no freakin' idea why it is in the middle of the console!) and Durametric was showing a CEL (8050 - not passenger compartment communications, I think).

In order to make removal easier I tried to disconnect the harness that goes into the center console as that would make things SO much easier. It is on the passenger side just above the end of the console wings that extend forward. I couldn't get it disconnected. I will try and do some more research and figure out how he connector works as this would make the removal of the console a snap!
Thanks to the OP for the wonderful How-To and the great photos. I have to agree with N0tt0N about removing the subwoofer if you have one. This not only makes removing the shifter surround easier, it allows you to access the two screws that hold the passenger vertical panel at the side of the radio, etc. If you remove this panel (take the two rear screws out and then pull it out toward the rear of the car) you can access the wiring for the center console and unplug the connector, which is just behind and under the radio. If you try to pull the center console without unplugging the wiring harness you will break something (most likely the airbag warning light--which I broke, just like N0tt0N!)
Just fitted the SS to mine tonight, as said previously, the sub woofer needs to be removed and I found that the winged bracket for the woofer housing needed removing to allow the console to hinge up easily. Wiring clips were a struggle to remove underneath the console.

One note, the brake lever slot has sharp edges and can mark the handbrake handle.
Following the message a couple of days ago when I first installed the OEM short shift I've been out and about driving some of the twisty back roads in this part of the UK. The shift makes it even more fun as it's so incredibly involving, I know others have said the same thing before and at first I thought "this feels a bit heavy" but the next time I drove it I expected that to a greater degree and "it's magic".:dance:

Well worthwhile modification and it should have been original. I got mine from a guy who didn't like it on his 997 turbo, very cheap and without the cable setting tool but by marking the cables and installing to the original set positions as it came out I find the gear positions are exactly where I want them to be. Thanks to the OP for the DIY instructions I did have to add the task of removing my Sub Woofer not easy as I was working with the car in the garage against wall so access from only one side, ( sore ribs from stretching over the handbrake ) now finding any excuse to take it out for a drive even more so than before.:thanks::cheers:

Like DaKlassiq I had problems releasing the clips for the gaitor no one wants to break anything after all, I found that by inserting a thin blunt piece of metal at each clip position I could ease the clips to a point where they release easily first those at the front then with those wedged, those at the side and they then released no breakages. No airbag warning light on UK cars but would have been easier if I'd removed the console bin and unplugged the socket.
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Here are couple pictures to show how to remove the knob without taking it apart and also location of the connector to center console.

Removing the shift knob/boot in one piece:
Rotate the boot clockwise 90 degrees at just below the seam (blue line) so the front of boot is facing passenger door, rear of boot is facing driver side door:

Then pull up on the knob by gripping the black plastic grommet:

Disconnect the main connector that powers different things at the console (so you don't have to remove the different connectors individually). Turn the connector 45 degrees and you can detach it from the metal back-plate that holdsthe unit in place. This will give you more wiggle room to disconnect the connector.

OP - you can update your article by including these pictures if you wish.... just give me credit in your write up.
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