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Prepping 987.1 for it's first HPDE season

14K views 50 replies 11 participants last post by  Apex1 
#1 ·
Hiya last year I bought a 2006 Cayman S (M97) off my uncle with 47,000km on it. He was the second owner and it's been lightly driven with regular maintenance from both owners. This will be my fourth year doing HPDE days and the first with this car. I'm looking for some advice on the modifications I'll need to drive it safely on the track. I'm in my mid 30s so I'm not trying to set any records, just enjoy the drive and pull some decent laps. I haven't decided on tires yet but I'm probably going to run Sport Cup 2's.

What I've purchased so far;

Dension Gateway 500
Rennline radiator grills
Rennline third radiator kit
New spark plugs
K&N air filter
Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
Castrol SRF brake fluid
Carbotech XP10/8 pads
GT3 brake ducts

I do oil changes every 6 months and I'm always well under the required km. I found this thread https://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman...suggestions-tracking-cayman-s.html#post770143 and wondered if anyone had a link to the under drive pulley he mentioned to prevent damage to the power steering pump. That thread is quite old and I didn't want to necro it.

If there's anything else you'd recommend please reply! I'm not looking to add more power I'm only concerned with reliability. The car is fast enough for me as it is. Our track is not a high speed track it's technical at only 2.5km with 11 corners Atlantic Motorsport Park – The heart of racing in the Maritimes!. I'm going to have a track alignment done before our first day to add as much negative camber as stock will allow with 0 toe. Next year I'll do Bilsteins, upgraded sway bars, and add more camber once I get a better feel for the car.

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
There are many different underdrive pulleys for our cars. All more-or-less the same. Find a company you trust and buy from them (RSS, Mantis, Pedro, Tarett, etc.). While this will give you a tiny bit more hp, the real purpose is to save the power steering pump. Some companies claim you need a smaller belt, some say the stock one will suffice. While the stock belt will fit, you'll be near the limits of the tensioner, so I would strongly consider a smaller belt. I personally purchased the Tarett with belt PN K060820, which will be going on before the 2019 season starts.

Especially on a car with an IMS bearing and going with tires that are stickier than stock (giving more Gs in the long turns), it is vitally important that you do some modifications to prevent oil starvation. Get a deep sump kit or something with better baffles. Personally, I'm going with the Mantis Deep Sump Kit because of how many problem-free hours they have logged in their Cayman racecar with the kit.
Depending on how hard you're actually going to be driving this car, I would also consider upgrading the AOS.

Under drive pulley, deep sump kit, and a 3rd radiator are all you "need" to start thrashing this car around.

As for alignment specs, maximum camber with a stock suspension will be fairly decent on track. I spent months dialing in my ride height, damping, camber, and toe. While my car is pretty low, damping is perfect and still allows significant suspension travel when necessary. I personally run -2.3° in the rear and -2.5° up front. For some of the tracks and autocross courses I run, I was getting a bit of understeer which the more extreme front camber and softer damping alleviated.

0 toe is good. But you may also want to consider a slight toe-in in the rear. This will help with straight line acceleration. A slight toe out up front can also help with cornering, depending on the track, but I prefer to run a 0 toe up front.

It's great that you have focused on brakes first and are learning the limits of the stock suspension before upgrading. Too many people buy all the parts before they now the limits and capabilities. Especially on shorter/technical tracks, you'll love suspension upgrades more than anything. Though you may want to consider a rear stress bar sooner than later. It's a cheap part (~$100) and helps maintain camber settings in the rear. Without the brace, under hard cornering/braking, you can actually feel the suspension geometry slightly change, which greatly hinders handling.

Eventually, you may want better aero (balance is great on these cars, but on faster tracks, downforce is lacking).
You might also want a harness setup and a seat with better bolsters... Porsche's leather sport seats are terrible and you'll be surprised how much easier it is to drive when you're not fighting to keep yourself in position.

After that, just start adding the parts that benefit the car in areas that you feel are lacking for your driving style.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I run stock power steering system on my CSS - no coolers, no UDPs, etc. I DO CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL BEFORE EVERY DE and never had any issues when it's at the proper level. I currently have 6 yrs of 3-4 DEs / yr on my CSS, including 3 DEs at 20 turn COTA. I think most issues with PS occur because people don't check the level b/c it's a PITA. Running a DE with low fluid will cause problems. Before dropping a ton of $$$ in this area, try running with the stock setup at the proper level. You might be able to redirect those PS $$$ to other areas.

You DO need to purchase a better sump baffle. The stock version is insufficient and will allow oil to slop out of the center section, resulting in potential starving. Some have purchased a sump extension along with a better baffle. I just purchased the better baffle for my stock sump. I've run twice on the high banks of Kansas Speedway and had no issues.

Definitely get a race alignment. If you run stock alignment, you'll wear out the outer edges of your tires very quickly. With stock components, the max you'll be able to get is approx. -1.5 camber. If you plan to do a lot of DEs, you might want to purchase some GT3 style lower control arms. They will give you a -2.5 camber. Your tire bill will be a lot lower with a race alignment.

You might want to consider the Function First Shift Right Solution. It will eliminate 95% of the slop in your shifter. Don't want any of those 5-2 money downshifts and it's not an expensive mod.

Welcome to the slipper slope of DE.
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Also, don't run it up to redline. The rod bolts are weak and venturing into redline territory will cause bearing issues. I shift at 6K RPM.

And learn how to heel and toe. The clutch is not robust so you need to be able to rev match when downshifting. If your DE is next week and you don't know how to heel and toe, don't worry about it. Go out and have fun. But work on it for the future. You'll enjoy it, your wallet will have an extra $2K, and your CS will thank you.
 
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#6 ·
Ordered the Tarett under drive pulley and a shorter belt. Does the 2L Mantis sump kit require additional baffles? The one listed on their site says no but a lot of posters on here suggest them. How much ground clearance do you lose with this kit?
 
#7 · (Edited)
If you car is not lowered by either coilovers or lowering springs, you should have no troubles with the Mantis deep sump as far as clearance. I am using the LN version of the deep sump kit with the X51 baffle, a windage tray and 997 down tubes. This seems like a good way to protect my engine. The 997 down tubes allows the head motor oil to flow quickly onto the windage plate. In high G cornering, oil gets trapped in the heads, so this down tube helps get frothy oil where it needs to go. LN also makes a sump protector skid plate, which I have as my car is lowered by coilovers, I hit that protector occasionally by speed bumps, even going very slowly and on a diagional. So, this protection is mainly for the street, which in my case is 90% of the car's use.

These cars do not have any rear brake ducts and our rear nannies are very active, so you will need that additional cooling to keep your paint on your calipers from turning brown. You will need to add those ducts to your car along with the GT3 ones you have for the front.

Some speed shops might get you to -1.6 camber in front and -2.1 camber in the rear, which I ran for a year before my Ohlin coilover conversion without much inner shoulder wear. Now using -2.7 F and -2.5 R. The roll rate is balanced with my track RE71R's. I also used wheel spacers to get more track width when using my OEM wheels/tires, which is most of the time.

A Pedro Technolink to stabilize the rear frame rails from torquing under threshold braking causing rear brake wiggle from the toe alignment moveing from in to out as the rear of the car lifts.

It all good when you think ahead, like you are doing. Google is our friend, use it to research these Cayman 987.1 issues. Have fun.
 
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#8 ·
I've heard some people adding different baffles to different deep sump kits. But most people with the Mantis deep sump (that I've seen) just run the kit right out of the box without any issues. I don't think Mantis added anything extra to their track car, which is that track proven product that I'm looking for.

As for ground clearance, I can't say exactly how much you lose, but it's not too bad. Consider that the sump is almost directly between the tires, speed bumps should never be a concern. The only real problem will be if you're running over something that centers under the car. If you're at stock height or lowered, as long as you have maintained the factory rake, other parts of your car will come in contact with that object before the sump. My car has about 2.5" of ground clearance and this isn't a concern to me, just drive defensively.
 
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#9 ·
Great thanks! I looked at the LN sump kit as well. Have they released any data on oil pressure during track sessions? I know Mantis did which is why I'm leaning towards their kit.

The function first shift right solution looks interesting. Will add that to my list. Has anyone tried their engine mount inserts? I haven't had the car on the track yet, can you feel the weight of the engine shift under hard cornering without them?
 
#10 · (Edited)
I use the Function First Orange motor mount insert, which brings a new feeling to the car. It just seems more planted, as would be expected as the motor motion is reduced. When I had the insert installed, my shop found the original motor mount shot with 40k on the clock. The rubber was ripped and deteriorating, so I had them replace it with a OEM motor mount and the FF Orange insert. On start up, much more NVH than a regular motor mount, so I add a fuel supplement (LIQUIMOLY JECTRON) that dramatically reduces engine vibration on startup.

Charles Navaro, head of LN has a number of articles regarding the protection of the 987.1 3.4 engine. I would suggest reading these before you purchase. While, scientific track data is good, its not the whole story as you will read. Part of the M97 engine story in the 987.1 Cayman's is we have only 2 oil pumps in our heads, so oil in certain situations does not exit the head, but pools due to G forces. Not only pools, but becomes frothy, filled with air. So, his kit includes the 997 down tube and a windage plate that takes out the air as the oil seeps into the lower level of the sump where X-51 baffle holds the oil in place to be picked up by the oil feed. Charles, also recommends a certain type of engine oil that does not froth in our heads, which is accomplished by additives as in the Driven Joe Gibbs product XP-9.

You can go crazy looking at this situation, but just knowing the facts about the 2 head oil pumps in the 3.4 M97 vs the 4 in the 9A-1 from 2009 on will give you a good idea of the importance of this issue. You are on the right track with the addition of the third water radiator as its use to keep the engine oil below 280 degrees is critical as only a few motor oil will withstand this usage and prevent rod bearing scarring. Look up the web thread on the comparison of oils by RAT/540. While some of this data is not replicated due to the method of his proprietary research, just looking at the body of evidence between oils will give you a good idea of where to go as cost per quart come into play with a 10 qt sump. Our engines fit into the flat tappet area as we stretch the boundary levels of the oil's effectiveness with the oil starvation, frothy oil contamination and heat degradation. So that needs to be part of your engine protection campaign as we have no oil temp or pressure gauges.

I use the Numeric shifter and cables for a solid feel and great down shifting experience especially blipping into 1st gear for those tight 180 degree corners. The OEM cables are suspect and subject to failure due to a bend in the cable just before the transmission link. The new replacement OEM cables have overcome this issue, but they require a number of additional install hours that Numeric cables do not require. I like the feel of the solid steel cable rather than the silky smooth replacement cable. I can feel the transmission detents on each gear shift if done slowly, not so with the Porsche new improved more expensive product.
 
#11 · (Edited)
The LN kit seems to address the same problem in a different way. I like the return tubes on the LN version and the design of the pan on the Mantis.

What surprises me is why Bilt hasn't provided public data to support their design. During development they have to be monitoring it to be sure their system does what they think it should.

I'll add the motor inserts to my list. Just ordered the rear brake ducts thanks!
 
#12 · (Edited)
I am not sure about Mantis design, but I do know from a conversation with LN that I had regarding the down tubes. I wanted to install 996 swirl pots instead of the 997 straight down tubes. I was told that this change was necessitated by experience of oil pooling in the heads. So, the X-51 baffle system, along with the windage plate and the straight down tubes all are a system. That's what was installed in my car and initally XP-9 oil (not a street oil as it should only be driven for 800 miles). However, I am now using Mobil 5W-40 FS European blend for this winter. In the spring, will change to a highly rated boundry layer PSI oil for rod bearing scar protection that has additives for reduced head froth production and high heat degradation.

The one item that this system exposes is the OEM AOS. The windage plate is actually higher in the sump than the bottom of the OEM sump, so oil is collected there as it filters down into the bottom of the sump on each side of the X-51 baffle. In a autocross last year, a long slalom feature, caused a lot of oil to be sucked into my OEM AOS, which sits on the top of the sump sort of a breather and negative pressure maker. The sloshed oil coated my AOS twice in this feature, so I changed it to the Porsche Motorsports AOS without any additional oil coating issues. It turns out that the Porsche Motorsports AOS is mandatory in the LN/BRS lower end protection system to help suck out the frothy engine oil in the heads when the third scavenger pump is installed. OEM AOS simply do not have the capasity to remove the frothy oil in the air from the heads as well as create negative pressure for the sump as it will soon become clogged with oil.

Also, the sump of the new 2 Qt system is not, repeat not, to be filled completely, rather to 1/3 or slightly over that number and checked daily. This info comes directly from LN, who runs a group of 11 Cayman race cars. This info is different than what I was initially told to do, as more oil the better, but to avoid an overfill situation adding to the IMS bearing seal leakage. LN acknowledged the slosh issue on top of the windage plate, therefore reduced sump fill to allow that oil more readily to seep into the bottom sump. Again, a total system has been created by LN. You can modify all you like, but the further away from their system you go, the more risk you take without their explicit knowledge backing you up. Case in point are; the 996 swirl pot, Accusump, OEM baffle plate, no windage tray, no additional scavenger head pump, other oil than Driven XP-9 race oil, use of Hoosies R-7 tires, A-7's ok for autocross, not using a 3 radiator, high RPM shifting (red line), etc.

Charles Navarro, President of LN, is particularly interested in maintaining oil pressure to rod bearing #6 during the final 15 minutes of the run. To do that, a couple of items must be included on your engine build. A spin on oil filter base with a special oil filter (Powerfilter 10881) that has 45 micron passage ways to assure plenty of oil pressure. The second is the use of a race oil with a 10W 40 viscosity rating. This allows for the hot oil, most likely well over 300 degrees before it reaches the #6 rod bearing, to have some film strength to prevent scarring of the rod bearing. This oil comes from the rear main bearing area to oil the rod bearing, so its already very hot. Any additional methods of reducing oil temperature at this time would be very helpful, ie, 3rd radiator and a much larger water/oil heat exchanger.

There are numerous web entries that give additional information about the installation and use of these two systems on P9 and Rennlist.

Much of the data is collected by the AIM Solo 2 DL GPS lap timer with ECU intergation which gives real time oil temp and water temp but not oil pressure.
 
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#13 ·
When I did my engine swap last summer I spoke with the folks at Vision about stiffer engine mounts. They recommended leaving the engine mounts stock and instead getting a semi-solid trans mount. You end up with pretty much the same result with the plus of not getting high-freq resonance in the cabin. Solid or semi-solid engine mounts make sense for a race car but I was told not worth the noise for a street car.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I would agree about a solid or semi solid motor mount. The FF insert is not exactly that as it fits into the open spaces of the OEM motor mount and tighten them up prevent sideways motion from G forces. I have read other stories about members changing their transmission mounts and were not satisfied with the NVH from that supposed upgrade, so that was my thought of using the insert. The Orange is the least offensive NVH product of the three inserts that FF makes. Again, the only time NVH noticeable is during startup for a minute or so. The fuel additive helps smooth out the startup vibration. Mid range engine tone is slightly different, especially with the 78 mm throttle body and EVOM's air filter system adding to the engine noise.

The positive part of the Function First insert is back to back slalom type turns are much more taut and accurate now. Throttle steer mid corner is more direct and smooth as the motor is stationary now. The newer 911 Porsches with Sports Chrono comes with a magnetic motor mount that essentically does the same thing as the insert as the 911 engine is reversed.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Wasn't planning on upgrading the AOS this season unless it becomes a problem. Deep sump will be installed next month before the season starts. What type of turns effect the car the most? Sharp turns, elevation changes, long sweeping turns, all of the above? We have several sharp turns with elevation changes and blind apex's all over the place. There's really only one corner you sustain over 1g for a few seconds. Harry's will show those except oil pressure most cars use a non standard custom PID for that so it's not available as an overlay.

Here's a video from a few years back in my previous car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJpXDFzeqok
 
#18 ·
Wasn't planning on upgrading the AOS this season unless it becomes a problem. Deep sump will be installed next month before the season starts. What type of turns effect the car the most? Sharp turns, elevation changes, long sweeping turns, all of the above? We have several sharp turns with elevation changes and blind apex's all over the place. There's really only one corner you sustain over 1g for a few seconds. Harry's will show those except oil pressure most cars use a non standard custom PID for that so it's not available as an overlay.

Here's a video from a few years back in my previous car: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJpXDFzeqok
As Apex1 indicates, most engine oiling issues begin when running with R-comp tires. You haven't mentioned that as one of your upgrades, so doing the upgrades you've mentioned should be sufficient if you're going to run on street tires. The other Achilles heel to Cayman engines are l-o-n-g sweeping corners. Can't remember if left or right sweepers are the bane. I think it was left but others can reply. Once again, most of the issues arise when running R tires because of the G forces they generate vs what the engines were designed for with street tires. That's one of the reasons why I run street tires at the track. I get my a$$ kicked by all the low hp cars running race tires, but I don't blow up my engine and can go to my next DE. I'm probably alone in being OK with giving up track speed by not using stickier tires, but I look at the war not the battle.

As far as going with a Motorsports AOS, once again if you're generating high G's from R tires then you'll need it. If you run street tires, a Motorsports AOS is spendy. You can replace a lot of stock AOSs vs the cost of the Motorsports. So I make sure there are no signs of a failing AOS before I go to the track (there's a new thread on this topic in the 987 general topics), and I take a spare AOS with me to the track in case the existing one shoots craps. Don't need to pack up and go home for something that simple failing. Having a spare AOS on hand is not an expensive proposition.

There is a theme running thru the responses in this thread. If you plan to turn your CS into a track monster, then you need to bulk it up. If you want to go out and enjoy it within reason, then fewer mods are needed with the understanding that you're giving up some capabilities in the process. But you'll have fun. DE is a slippery slope.
 
#17 · (Edited)
AOS- Quick back in forth motion as in a long slalom course with RE71R's and a very solid suspension setup inducing high G forces on both sides in repeat manor. This induced oil slosh with 3/4 oil sump fill, happened to my engine causing an oil down of the OEM AOS twice, but not sure which side did it, most likely was the right side under AOS the vent hole. Did not happen with the Porsche Motor Sports version. The top of the windage plate does not have any ribs or slosh bars to impede the oil motion, only the X-51 oil baffle system keeping the oil contained in the oil well and separated in two half's of the windage plate.

You can think about the OEM AOS oil down issues in the same parts of the track where the FF motor mount insert has helped reduce motor movement side to side. If your track only has one high G force corner, most likely you will not oil down your OEM AOS.

Rod bearing engine starvation- Long left hand sweepers with high G forces produced by R rated tires is the primary cause, however high G stopping with left turn at end also have shown reduced oil pressure issues. You can google P9 experiences from racers in the past on this issue. Including how to fix the problems, which resulted in all sorts of remedies. From all those stories, we boil their experiences down to Mantis and LN products.

Please check out mgarcia048 thread "987.1 track build", regarding his engine failure at Sebring while using a Mantis Sport 2qt sump post #28. Not sure if there was a relationship with rod bearing scarring or a rod bolt breaking. He did not mention an over rev situation only having fun. Also the scratch marks on the Mantis faceplate of the deep sump. The LN skid plate would make sense here.



Please check the link below from Charles Navarro in a Rennlink post.

[HR][/HR]Quote:
Originally Posted by MJBird993
Good thread since I was thinking about getting a 987.1 for the track. Any suggestions on good threads or blogs to read about oil starvation issues?

And yes, I've done searches...



Race oil, deep sump, don't raise the rev limiter, and keep it cool.

I've put together a PDF that goes over prepping an M96/M97 engine for the track, as found in your 987.1.
Attached Images

2017-Tracking-your-car-and-the-M96-engine.pdf (573.4 KB, 17 views)


__________________
Charles Navarro
President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service
http://www.LNengineering.com
Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution






 
#21 · (Edited)
Jonez- Please look at mgarcia048's thread "track build 987.1" showing his prep with his engine and his final result. What ever he did was not covering the fundamental issue with his 3.4 m97 motor. He has not opened the case yet to actually see what happened inside, but from his comments, it seems to be a rod bearing. You can see he had as much protection for the oil issue as could be expected, but still it occurred. He did not say his shift points (potential rod bolts failure), or if the last corner at Sebring was a long left hand sweeper, where the frothy oil could have accumulated in the head due to the placement of the oil salvage pump. An additional dual scanavenger pump and a MotorSports AOS to pull the oil forth enriched air from the heads would certainly aided the engine as the accusump never was activated.

I suspect that the oil pressure was affected, but not enough to light up his preset 25 psi red light. He also claims that the 996 swirl pots had nothing to do with the engine failure. His engine had about 25 hours of track time on the clock and about 48,000 miles of daily driving. Maybe prudent Blackstone oil analysis should be done once a year to baseline the bearing minerals that break down into the oil. Again read the articule from RAT/540 regarding engine oil boundry layer breakdown as measured by PSI to prevent rod bearing scarring and which ones offer additional protection when the oil pressure is reduced.

Take a look at the bottom of his Mantis deep sump post #17 of this thread. You can see numerous scratch marks on the face plate, which could be an issue solved by the LN skid plate.

Lots of small details to think about to protect and save you engine.
 
#23 ·
We can laugh, but that is a legitimate solution. If you don't spill the cup of water, you won't ruin the tofu.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Thanks for the all tips! Haha it's been a while since I've watched Initial D should give that another play through.

I haven't decided on which sump kit I'm going to order yet. Our track season doesn't start until May (it's -25C here right now) so I have some time to finish collecting parts. In my last order I purchased a low temp thermostat. On our warmest track days it's <30C and usually around 20-25C. We don't have as warm a climate in Canada as a lot of other countries. I think I have the rest covered. I may replace the AOS with a new OEM one.

Something I probably should have said earlier is the previous car I ran at HPDE days was my daily driver and so is my Cayman. I don't drive overly aggressive or take risks; I've never put wheels in the grass on any of the tracks I've been on. My Mini was lowered with all new suspension on r-comps so I had a skid plate which was mostly to deal with speed bumps in the city. I'm not planning on doing any suspension work this year. If I did it would be sway bars. The best way to improve lap times on our track is tightening the suspension our back straight is less than a kilometer long so power doesn't do a lot for you. The current track record is nearly tied by a formula BMW race car and an LS swapped street legal Miata. Those cars are just over a 1:10, good drivers at time attacks average 1:16's, my best is a 1:21 and my average on HPDE days is 1:23. Overall average for the track is around a 1:25. I'm not slow but I'm by no means fast either.

I don't expect to be pulling great lap times my first season out. I'm going from a low HP FWD Mini to a high HP (for me) RWD mid engine car that I don't want to wreck. I have a lot to learn before I can start pushing the car :)
 
#30 · (Edited)
Your deep Mantis sump will serve you well. I was told by LN to fill the sump to about 1/2 on the oil gauge. The oil at full sump will be subject to a lot of sloshing around, particularlly on top of the windage plate and may damage your AOS. Your protection may be ok as long as you do not use R rated tires.

With R rated tires another level of protection needs to be added, which includes a deep sump with windage tray, a 987.1 Porsche Motorsports AOS with an increased filteration system and a dual scavenger oil pump for the head. This pump connects with a steel braided line opposite end of the head to suck out vapors and oil. The 9A1 engines have 5 oil pumps vs our 3, so even with this added pump, the head oil scavenge is still not as robust as the 2009 and later Caymans.

Another idea is to make sure you have a high temp rated engine oil especially if you run without the 3rd radiator and has a anti foam additive. Check the web thread 540/RAT for the foam additive and high oil temp rating.

The 996 AOS can be made to fit, but guys on that web site also have AOS oiling issues, but not as often as the 987.1 Cayman.

You may also want to check the face of the sump for scratch marks after the season is over to see if a LN skid plate is warranted.

Have fun at the track.
 
#31 ·
I asked on our track forum and two other Cayman owners have used the Mantis sump without problems at our track. Nobody had tried the LN kit to compare but I'm sure it's a great kit too. Over revving seems to be a common trend with blown engines, shifting at 6k like someone said earlier in this thread seems like a smart move.

I've been looking at the Motorsports AOS and prices are all over the map. Suncoast sells them for $1800 and 5150 Motorsports sells them for $780 (needs a few other small parts). Where did you get yours from?

For oil I'm looking at Joe Gibbs DT40. I do oil changes in October and April. Occasionally we'll drop below 0 (-10-15 at most) in April so running anything higher than 5w could be an issue. Since I'm installing a 3rd rad + low temp thermostat I'm going to flush that at the same time.

Will do thanks! Do you have any videos of you lapping? Link here or PM me if you do :)
 
#32 · (Edited)
The Porsche Motorsports AOS comes in two versions, 987.1 verson and the 996 version. The 987.1 fit our cars and 996 version have some modificatiions to do. Porsche knew that the M97 engine needed more oil air filtration so they developed that unit for our cars, thus more expensive. Even with this expense, (GT on P9 web site) has gone thru 3 of these over the years.

LN has a fleet of 11 Caymans that they prep for a couple of different class racers, that is their test bed along with a great number of customers through BRS. They also are in partnership with Bilt. I am sure they have data from the race teams regarding oil pressures around each track as it is included in their data mapping for their car setups. They rebuild motors as well through BRS for their race teams and customers, so they have a good idea of what works.

They are very big into the Porsche Motorsports AOS as the center point for keeping the heads clear of frothy oil through the vacuum side of the head oil pumps. So, I will be having the 3rd oil pump (TTP dual scavanger oil safe) installed this coming month along with the spin on oil filter base with a billet (60 micron race filter and magnet) to reduce back pressure. FVD has one in their oil kit that they sell for $2995.

So a big bill from Cantrell Motor Sports for the center 997 CFS Race Radiator (larger size but will fit), TTP head Scavenger oil/vacuum dual pump, base for the oil screw on oil filter, a little suspension work, yearly brake flush and race prep inspection sheet for PCA.
 
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