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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday I read an article in R&T concerning brakes/rotors and the track. If anyone is curious here is the URL:
https://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsports/a20771252/everything-you-need-to-know-about-brakes-and-track-days/

In the article they suggest replacing rotors any time you replace the pads with a pad of a different compound. I've been running factory pads and was considering replacing them with Pagids with the idea of swapping them before and after track days. This is my DD, and I don't want to be driving around on track pads all the time. Presumably the Pagids are not the same composition as the factory pads so according to the article I need to replace the rotors. So should I ignore the article and just go with swapping pads? I have to make at least 100 mile drive to the track so any left over pad material theoretically will have been partially warn away.

My other alternative is to swap both pads and rotors, which is not that much more effort, but is that overkill?

Thanks in advance.
 

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ajahearn, I am not an expert and can't give the science behind it or directly argue the merits behind the article, can only provide my experience. All that said, I have ~64k miles on the car, over 20 track days, and use Pagid Yellows when on track, Porsche pads when daily driving. I have never had to swap rotors when I swapped the pads, I just ensure I perform a good bedding procedure each time I swap the pads out. My initial set of OEM rotors lasted me ~50k miles and I had zero issues on track or on the road.
 

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BTW, I do drive 100~200 miles (or more) to/from the track with the Pagid's on with no issue besides noise, even in very cold NorthEast early spring weather.
 

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For the past 15+ years, with 4 different Porsches, and well over 100 track days, I’ve swapped back and forth between oem Porsche pads and Pagid yellows without any issues. Rotors are replaced only when they’re worn out.


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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. There probably is something to mixing compounds but more than likely well beyond my skill level so I'm going to stay with the simplest solution.
 

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ajahearn, I am not an expert and can't give the science behind it or directly argue the merits behind the article, can only provide my experience. All that said, I have ~64k miles on the car, over 20 track days, and use Pagid Yellows when on track, Porsche pads when daily driving. I have never had to swap rotors when I swapped the pads, I just ensure I perform a good bedding procedure each time I swap the pads out. My initial set of OEM rotors lasted me ~50k miles and I had zero issues on track or on the road.
Wagzhp,

can you tell me what your bedding in procedure is for OEM street pads? I just had front rotors (below spec thickness) and OEM pads installed today; last time, I used a bedding in procedure from some company that makes track pads (don't think it was Pagid) that involved about 12 brake applications at various speeds to get the brakes good and hot and then transfer a smooth layer. I'm not convinced that is best for the OEM pads but don't really know. (The service writer says the tech does 2 stops from 60 mph on the test drive which beds in the pads, but that doesn't sound like pad bedding in; that sounds like making sure the brakes work). Track day at Laguna Seca on Monday.
Thanks,
KAL
 

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+1 on swapping between Pagids & stock pads w/o changing rotors.
 

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Hi KAL, while street pads don't need the same bedding in process as track pads, they do benefit from a more mild version.

For street pads I try to find a deserted stretch of roadway were I don't need to worry about being rear-ended during the braking segments, but that also has plenty of room to allow cool down with out having to come to a complete stop while the system it hot enough to perform pad transfer. (Coming to a complete stop at that point causes high points, which cause peddle pulsing.)

The bedding process I use for street pads is 8 near stops from about 70 mph, followed by 10 minutes of minimum braking driving to cool everything down. Depending on where you live, that may need to be done in the wee morning hours, when everyone else is in bed.

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However, if you are below spec rotor thickness you need to keep a very close eye on cracks between the drilled holes in the rotors. Once any of them connect you will be at risk of catastrophic rotor failure. Also, depending on how thin the rotors are, they could also fail due to crushing forces from the calipers. That's a pretty rare thing, as most track folks replace before they get that thin, but be careful. I have seen pictures of the aftermath of a failed rotor, and they can destroy a rim, which at speed can lead to an unpleasant off track excursion.

(EDIT: Never mind, I just reread your post and realized you said the front rotors were replaced. )

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