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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm up here is Alaska and water condensation is so problematic that we change natural oils more frequently because water tends to build up displacing oil and making it appear there is more oil in the crank case than there is.

Problem is I'm cheap and part of the rationale in buying this beast was fewer oil changes and lowering environmental impact.

At $169 an oil change, I can accept it every 10,000 miles but my dealership is recommending changing every 5,000 miles.

He put 5-30W Mobil One in her last time for the winter. And I had them install an oil pan heater which I only plan to use in an emergency because my car is garaged at a comfortable 60-65 degrees in the winter.

What would you do?

What do you do?

:thanks:
 

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Daily driver?.....how many miles each day?

If you heat the engine up each day to full operating temp and keep it there for a bit I wouldn't have a problem with 10k.

If you drive it once every three or four days and then let it sit again, then I'd have it done a bit sooner like 7.5k. I would think at 5k the dealer is just trying to make a buck.

Just about every oil test I have seen for a Porsche (any) @ 10k miles has shown it could easily go another 5 - 10K miles without much issue. Just keep using Mobil 1 or other full synthetic and you should be fine @ 10k,.....just my .02
 

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5W-30 is not a recommended oil weight, Mobil-1 or not. For Alaska 0W-40 is definitely the best choice.

Porsche recommends an oil change before storing your car for a long winter, so unless you drive more than 10K miles per year you'll probably average more like 5K miles between changes anyway. (I interpreted your "garaged" comment as winter storage - true?)

I'm having trouble believing you bought a Porsche to be greener, or perform fewer oil changes.
 

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Why such an issue with condensation? Are you on the coastal region - where I am assuming it is more humid but doesn't get as cold - or inland where I assume that humidity is lower but the temperatures get extremely low?

Do you see an emulsion form? I would think with that much water - and not getting evaporated off - you would see that form.

Does everybody experience this? Anyway, enough questions - it's just that I am very curious about why this would be.:cheers:
 

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Enjoying the drive.
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My dealer told me it was 20,000 miles between oil changes for my '06 Cayman S.
 

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Tennessee Vol
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My dealer told me it was 20,000 miles between oil changes for my '06 Cayman S.
That (20K) is correct. I change mine every 5K since I track the car at least once a month.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Daily driver?.....how many miles each day?

If you heat the engine up each day to full operating temp and keep it there for a bit I wouldn't have a problem with 10k.

If you drive it once every three or four days and then let it sit again, then I'd have it done a bit sooner like 7.5k. I would think at 5k the dealer is just trying to make a buck.

Just about every oil test I have seen for a Porsche (any) @ 10k miles has shown it could easily go another 5 - 10K miles without much issue. Just keep using Mobil 1 or other full synthetic and you should be fine @ 10k,.....just my .02
Atlas Croc,

Good points. I have let the car sit for a few days. I don't have a driving pattern up here yet. However, it is garaged and heated.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
5W-30 is not a recommended oil weight, Mobil-1 or not. For Alaska 0W-40 is definitely the best choice.

Porsche recommends an oil change before storing your car for a long winter, so unless you drive more than 10K miles per year you'll probably average more like 5K miles between changes anyway. (I interpreted your "garaged" comment as winter storage - true?)

I'm having trouble believing you bought a Porsche to be greener, or perform fewer oil changes.

Blueone,

Thanks for pointing the oil recommendations. I myself added 0W-40 but I failed to specify to the dealer what weight to use. I thought they'd know what weight is best up here!

However, I am going to check my owner's manual. I guess it is my mistake for not specifying the weight. I think you are right about the recommended weights.

I am not storing my car for winter and I am lucky enough to have a garage. Up north that is very important and somewhat of a luxory. Most cars aren't garaged but kept outside and it makes a huge difference. Not merely in comfort but the lengevity of the car. I didn't think that my words would imply 'storing' at the time of writing.

Yes, Porsche is greener. When one considers the chemicals & energy involved in making a so-called "green" hybrid car with BATTERIES and the factors invled across the lifetime of the car, even the original full size Hummer has less of an impact on Global Warming that, for instance, a Prius.

I hate those cars!

Why?

Those cars cause Global Warming.

Read Denise McCallauge's articles for AutoWeek and you'll see what I mean.

There were many factors involved in my choice of vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why such an issue with condensation? Are you on the coastal region - where I am assuming it is more humid but doesn't get as cold - or inland where I assume that humidity is lower but the temperatures get extremely low?

Do you see an emulsion form? I would think with that much water - and not getting evaporated off - you would see that form.

Does everybody experience this? Anyway, enough questions - it's just that I am very curious about why this would be.:cheers:
gtscayman,

I believe that the extreme variations, in particular the low temperatures after running temperatures draw in moisture and whicht condensces as the engine cools.

Yes, we are on the coast of Cook Inlet. BTW, we have the third largest tide differentials in the world. Last month we were 20 degrees cooler than normal. True, the interior (Fairbanks) gets much cooler.

Years ago -60F was common in Fairbanks while it was -10F to -20F in Anchorage. At times we think we hit -30F.

The weather varies tremendously across Alaska. Few people know that Alaska has DESERTS and RAIN FORESTS. However, this area is considered temperate.

Years ago in nonsynthetic oils, I recall observing an emulsion that was almost tan in color and thick. But that was rare and limited, perhaps on the oil filler cap.

We were urged to change oil every three (3) months regardless of how few miles driven because driving in Anchorage often involves such short trips that the engines barely have time enough to warm up to operating temperatures.

It is not kind to motor vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My dealer told me it was 20,000 miles between oil changes for my '06 Cayman S.
Yes, then I believe the following year, Porsche changed the recommended intervals to half of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That (20K) is correct. I change mine every 5K since I track the car at least once a month.
mdavis,

Do you notice a difference in performance?

My drive on the Alcan was rough on me and the vehicle--requiring frequent down shifting taking the engine over 6,000 RPM's. And at the end of the trip, the oil smelled nasty and looked terrible.

It might have had 8,000 miles on it and the engine loved it when I changed out that nasty oil.

Also, right after I got to Anchorage one of my coils broke. I'm glad that didn't break during my drive as the car was running poorly--on only seven cylinders!
 

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Blueone,


Yes, Porsche is greener. When one considers the chemicals & energy involved in making a so-called "green" hybrid car with BATTERIES and the factors invled across the lifetime of the car, even the original full size Hummer has less of an impact on Global Warming that, for instance, a Prius.

I hate those cars!

Why?

Those cars cause Global Warming.

Read Denise McCallauge's articles for AutoWeek and you'll see what I mean.

There were many factors involved in my choice of vehicle.
Joe - those 'facts' on Hummers being environmentally more sound than a Prius were debunked about five minutes after those articles came out. Might want to do more reading on that. Look for some counterpoints as there are many that have logic behind them. The original 'Hummer is better than Prius' article was basis Toyota building all the infrastructure to build Prius's and then compared that to similar volumes of Hummers, but had that infrastructure being environmentally amortized since the '50's or so. Even the articles authors agreed that the comparison was skewed and in no way could represent the real footprint of a Prius vs a Hummer. Thought you might want to know.:cheers:

Otherwise, thx for the info in your other post. I agree, not an easy part of the world if you're a car (or an animal, human, tree.....lol).
 

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Beach Nut
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5W-30 is not a recommended oil weight, Mobil-1 or not. For Alaska 0W-40 is definitely the best choice.
Agree. Porsche only recommends 0W-40, 5W-40, and 5W-50. The 0W gives you the least resistance to cold oil starts.

I change oil and LN Engineering's spin-on filter every year at 5-6k miles. Cheap insurance for engine life. And have oil analyzed. 15 or 20k is ridiculous IMO. :crazy:

And if I fire up the engine, I drive until it hits operating temp and then head home. Short drives are killers and don't burn off contaminants or evaporate condensed water vapor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If someone would post links to articles disputing the green factors of the the Prius vs the Hummer, I'd appreciate it. For some reason it bothers me when someone expresses 'universal truths' such as 'as we all know since . . . ' or 'as all scientists agree . . .' Until that time I will hold to Denise McCullage's articles in AutoWeek.

While I was in my dealership today, I queried the owner's son about the best weight oil for Alaska. He came out with a can of Mobile One in 5W-30. They claim this is the weight Porsche recommends for year round use in Alaska.

I've never had my oil analyzed and want to know what to look for and what benefit(s) might be derived from analysis.

Sadly, things are so close in Anchorage that there are times when I can not get the temperature up. Certainly it helps to fukky warm up an engine to evaporate water but often I am only going 6 miles. It seems this big V8 takes a while to warm up--I noticed this even when I was in Phoenix.

A while back I heard it was bad for a car's tune up to start it and sit and spend a lot of time warming the engine up and it was best to drive off slowly and take it easy as the engine warmed up. Indeed, I take it very slowly until both oil and coolant temperature guages indicate the engine is warm. Besides, the running gear on the AWD seems to take time warming up as well.

All I can say is I am very pleased with the Porsche SUV
 

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What you'll find, if each trip is max 6 miles, then parking, is exactly what you're fearing- water will be condensing in the oil (and more).

If you could always store at 60 degrees F, drive around, and come back to a 60 degree F garage, you would have no problem (almost). It's mostly when the car sits in the cold that bad things happen- however little water vapor exists condenses readily in the engine because it gets so cold so fast.

I personally wonder whether synthetics have this in mind when they are engineered. All that nasty natural crude up there under the ice sheet doesn't have much moisture in it does it?

...just wondering...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Chas,

Thanks for the assurance. I am fortunate to be able to park in a heated garage that often exceeds 60 degrees F.

I wonder about synthetics as well.

In regards to moisture, generally it is recommended one not let fuel level drop below 50% in order to reduce the volume in the fuel tank that might ingest, for lack of a better word, more air and increase the risk of condensation in one's gas!

I find the AWD takes a little bit of warm up. Even though it is garaged I try to wait until both oil & coolant guages indicate the system is fully warmed up before engaging the Turbos.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Need Help in Learning how to Change CTT Oil

Well, my short trips up here are killing my oil. It's down a quart and kinda funky but not as bad as when I got off the Alcan. It looks like I need to learn how to change oil & filters myself.

I found Mobil One 5-30W only at Cosco. Now, I think I know why the dealer uses only that weight year round up here. I'll bet they are buying their Mobile One from Costco!

Any tips on tools & techniques and where to get filters (or parts) will be appreciated.

Thank you!

:thanks:

PS I think I might have only 1800 miles on this Mobil One!!! :eek:
 
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