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For anyone interested in this modication still, my shop in Portland (shoutout to Matrix Integrated) was told by the local Porsche dealership that there are 5 of the GT4 rear braces (981 331 275 80) in the entire US, and the part is marked as discontinued, so at least for the time being, they can’t order more. So, if you want one, best call your local dealership and buy one asap. Mine is going on today. ��
I'm guessing Beaverton is out of these. Did Matrix source one for you?
 

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Just one point. The only replacement pan available is the 718 pan with the holes pre-drilled. It is cheap, under $150. I was investigating this because my (now repaired) flood Boxster has its pan damaged via fork lift used to move cars around Texas World Speedway before the car was auctioned. Replacing the pan is on the todo list for next spring.

V6
 

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In my Cayman and Boxster mod threads, I show how to drill the pan. Boxster thread post #214).

The holes in the 718 brace are 14mm in diameter. I thinik factory bolts are 8mm and I have used M10 and M12 bolts with large diameter fender washers..

After mounting the brace in final position, use your fingers to estimate where in the pan the brace holes are. Use a small bit and attempt to drill upward and find the center. If off, retry. Then use a step drill bit and open the holes in the pan to the size of the brace holes. Note brace is steel and the pan aluminum. If off center, wobble the step drill and it will recenter in the brace hole.

Drop in M10 or M12 bolts (25mm length is ideal), fender washers and lock nuts (or use medium strength (blue) thread locker). If there is a gap between the bottom of the brace and the top of the pan, fit a washer in between to prevent bending/crushing the pan and possibly changing alignment. The holes are 5 minutes or less if you have the step drill bit.

When changing carrier halves, lubricate the bushings with silicone grease to allow the anti-sway bars to transfer force from side to side easier (improve cornering).

If you have a Cayman, consider one of the harness/roll bars that attach at the top of the rear struts. I have the BGB bar and it has a tube that goes directly between the strut towers. This provides stiffening at both the top and with the brace, bottom of the rear shocks and should limit rear chassis flexing. I have the Schnell bar over the front shock towers for the same reasons.

V6
For those that do not desire to drill the pan and install washers or spacers, the 718 pan (981-331-261-11) is pre-drilled and includes pressed in nutserts that are used to secure the M8x25mm bolts from the brace.

IMG_1111.jpg IMG_1109.jpg
 

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I will have to replace my flood Boxster's pan due to forklift damage that occured at Texas World Speedway even though I was able to force the 718 brace on the damaged pan and drill it. It is cheap, only about $125.

V6

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I thought I would post an update on adding the 718 Reinforcement Strut to a 981. One part number has been superseded over time, and I also found that the 'line drawings' of the sway bar brackets are not accurate in the online Porsche dealer catalog, further confusing things. BTW, also, it appears the GT4 Strut is NLA. I have an (early) 2015 Cayman GTS/6MT, so my observations only for that.

First of all, I buying the Suncoast kit seems like a good way to go, as they are supplying the Reinforcement Strut, the updated sway bar brackets, and the longer bolts. The price is very similar to what you'll pay at a dealer for the individual parts. However, with Covid-19, we are experiencing terrible shipping delays from major carriers, especially from the east coast, so I wanted to find a more local dealer source.

Here are the current (8/2020) part numbers and quantities:

(1) 982-505-475 Reinforcement Strut
(2) 981-333-777-01 Stabilizer bar bracket
(4) 900-378-159-01 Trans mount bracket bolt (M8x60)

My GTS came with the 'curved top' Stabilizer (sway) bar brackets (old style, 996-333-777-01) and the shorter bolts. You need the updated brackets (981-333-777-01), which have a "flat" top, so that the Reinforcement Strut fits on that. The line drawings in the dealer lookup online are generic, and don't show the real item - so don't be confused. Of interest, if you look up the Stabilizer Bar brackets for a 981, it's now showing the updated 'flat top' part as current, although the old curved top part is still available if you search it.

I did bolt the Reinforcement Strut to to the lower pan, using many of Voyager6 suggestions - thank you. Drilling those holes is very doable in the car; using your fingers to pinch the plate and find the spot on the bottom, then use a small pilot hole to 'find' the center. This worked great. I did the driver's side one with an angle drill from the top. I actually got the passenger side one better centered, drilling from the bottom! My observation is that the Strut is contoured to fit directly up against the pan, flush, no washer. Best advice is to leave Stabilizer Bar bolts slightly loose, fit up the pan-to-Strut bolts, then snug up the Stabilizer bar. Generally, any sway bar or suspension stuff like this, I like to do the final tightening with the wheels loaded (ramps or blocks).
 

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Sorry, I did not weigh it, but it's not much. It's only about 75 cm across - really quite small. I'd guess it's around 1 pound, at the most.
 
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