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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi.

This is a tutorial on how to install a hardwired radar detector using a blendmount mount and mirrortap power source.

This is an alternative to running a power line across the headliner and down to the fuse box.

I have no financial connection with blendmount or mirrotap, and i paid full price for my unit just like anyone else would (minus a coupon code i found on the internet).

Items:
1. buy a radar detector (i use a valentine one).
2. buy a blendmount mounting kit for porsche 981 (POR-002).
Radar Detector Mount
3. buy a mirrotap MT-2012 0.050 wide tap. i used the 12", but i would suggest the 15" length.
MirrorTap Power Cord with Inline Fuse
4. you will need a drill and a car trim removal tool
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Procedure:
1. remove the home link assembly using a credit card.
2. simply slide the card as shown, and the clips will release.
3. the home link assembly should then fairly easily wiggle away.
4. (i stole these two pics from a post from zapta).



5. once the panel drops out, it will be connected by a wiring harness.
6. i suggest you disconnect that and put the home link assembly aside so that it doesn't dangle in your way throughout the install.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
7. there are now 4 pieces of plastic trim that cover the rear view mirror stalk that need to be removed.


upper left and right trim pieces (above)


lower left and right trim pieces (above)

a. these are fairly difficult to remove.
b. they are clipped in rather extensively.
c. there is no easy way to explain how to do this.
d. i would start with the upper pieces.
e. i wedged a plastic trim removal tool in to carefully pry it apart.
f. it requires some force, and you will feel that you are about to break it.
g. mine eventually came apart without any damage.
h. embark on this part of the install at your own risk.
i. however, i think the worst that could happen is that you break enough tabs that you will have to buy a new piece.
j. even for porsche, i can't imagine this would be that expensive to replace.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
8. thread the wiretap wire from the mirror into the recess where the home link assembly was.



9. identify the yellow wire connector harness already in your car.


10. attach the red power wire of the the mirrortap to the blue wire in the yellow connector
11. attach the black ground wire of the mirrortap to the brown wire.
12. this would be a good point to now test your connection. attach the other end of your mirrortap to your radar detector. test it by turning the car on and off with the radar both on and off.
---with car off and radar off, radar should be off
---with car off and radar on, radar should be off
---with car on and radar off, radar should be off
---with car on and radar on, radar should be on
if you get this sequence, then i think you can be confident that you have tapped into a switched power source, and that the radar will not drain power when your car is turned off.

13. remove the radar detector.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
14. you now need to have a way for the mirrortap power wire to cleanly exit the mirror trim pieces when you reassemble them.
15. there are likely a number of ways to do this.
16. i initially considered threading it out the back where the three slits are on the lower trim pieces, but i think that this is the access for the auto dimming electric eye, and i didn't want to block that.
17. i then considered drilling a hole in the side of the right side lower trim piece, but if i ever removed the wire, that hole would remain.
18. i elected to drill a hole in the front of the lower trim piece, right in the middle where the two halves connect, since this is essentially a non visible area.
19. i reassembled the lower left and right trim pieces and brought them inside.


view of reassembled left and right lower trim pieces from the front (the large hole on the bottom is what the mirror stalk fits into).
 

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20. i drilled a hole into the reassembled piece where the mirrotap wire will exit to the car cabin. i started by using a very small drill bit and then worked my way up to a 5/32 bit.


view of reassembled piece with drilled hole (arrow).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
21. i reassembled the lower left and right trim pieces in the car, with the mirrortap wire exiting.

22. i reinstalled the left and right upper trim pieces (this is fairly difficult to do, take your time).

23. i reinstalled the wiring harness to the home link assembly and put that back in place, which is fairly easy.

24. i installed the actual blendmount radar mounting bracket per the instructions that come with the unit.

 

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Hi.

This is a tutorial on how to install a hardwired radar detector using a blendmount mount and mirrortap power source.

This is an alternative to running a power line across the headliner and down to the fuse box.

I have no financial connection with blendmount or mirrotap, and i paid full price for my unit just like anyone else would (minus a coupon code i found on the internet).

Items:
1. buy a radar detector (i use a valentine one).
2. buy a blendmount mounting kit for porsche 981 (POR-002).
Radar Detector Mount
3. buy a mirrotap MT-2012 0.050 wide tap. i used the 12", but i would suggest the 15" length.
MirrorTap Power Cord with Inline Fuse
4. you will need a drill and a car trim removal tool
ddd:

After looking at this mount, I've decided it's not for me. I don't want my V-1 mounted UNDER the mirror. Blocks too much critical information out there on the road! I would always be looking around the thing. I think the mirror is already too big for the field of vision in back. I mount my V-1 to the right of the mirror and this mount won't easily do that.

Good info on how to tap the power from the Homelink though. I will do this because I'm always leaving my detector on. I currently have a 12 ft. Radioshack black phone wire running along the side of the windshield to the power supply in the passenger's footwell. NOT SWITCHED…It's a drag.

:cheers:
 

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25. the final product:


i hope this is a helpful tutuorial.
best of luck.
-daniel
Hi Daniel,

:thanks: so much for install/connect info and pics - worth a 1000 words for sure.

LG will be getting a new RD by April rebirth. No decided yet on which one.

The new Escort MAX was #1 on my list but its getting some not yet reviews - has some issues currently it seems. Maybe go with "Redline Expert" instead or some other brand.

:cheers:
 

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Very nice install!
My Dealership didn't have a clue how to use the tap and instead ran the wire to the fuse block.
I find the BlendMount with V1 doesn't block any information for me and no matter how you wire it, it's a very clean look.
Do you have the V1 capaciter installed to stop the V1 from restarting when the stop/start kicks in? I have one and found it must be mounted at the V1 unit to work. Stops the somewhat annoying re-start.
Again nice job!-Richard
 

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I did the same install w/ Blendmount. You'd be surprised how unobtrusive it really is
 

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25. the final product:


i hope this is a helpful tutuorial.
best of luck.
-daniel
Hi Daniel,

As a follow on to install pics and comments Y and N as to field of vision issues, I was wondering if you could while sitting as if driving - all strapped in so to speak - take ONE MORE :picsplz: of (mount + detector) showing how it sits within one's field vision when looking out to road in area under mirror - you get my interest. The final "as mounted" pic above is clearly not from a normal ;) driver position.

I have always used suction cups for RD mount and do wonder just how the blendmount - which I like very much - effects RD positioning and vision Q.

Again great job above; Agree as to putting it under "Articles".

:thanks: and :cheers:
 

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Hi Daniel,

As a follow on to install pics and comments Y and N as to field of vision issues, I was wondering if you could while sitting as if driving - all strapped in so to speak - take ONE MORE :picsplz: of (mount + detector) showing how it sits within one's field vision when looking out to road in area under mirror - you get my interest. The final "as mounted" pic above is clearly not from a normal ;) driver position.

I have always used suction cups for RD mount and do wonder just how the blendmount - which I like very much - effects RD positioning and vision Q.

Again great job above; Agree as to putting it under "Articles".

:thanks: and :cheers:

Very good write up indeed! I had a similar set up in my car but have since taken it down. I found the RD ( I have an Escort 9500) to be to close (or to far forward toward the rear of the car, if that makes sense) and not in my field of vision. It was not so much that I felt is blocking my view but it was not directly in my line of sight. With the top down and radio going I often did not hear the warnings and since it was not in filed of vision I found myself having to look at the mirror constantly. In my other cars the mirror is more forward and mounting to the mirror is no problem. I have since rerouted the power wire and have placed the RD on the windshield using the suction cups directly in my line of sight and it is MUCH better for me. I can see the warnings with out having to take my eyes off the road. I do like the idea of the mirror mount and have it that way in my other cars just not the BS. Still a great right up!!
 

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Hi.

This is a tutorial on how to install a hardwired radar detector using a blendmount mount and mirrortap power source.

This is an alternative to running a power line across the headliner and down to the fuse box.

I have no financial connection with blendmount or mirrotap, and i paid full price for my unit just like anyone else would (minus a coupon code i found on the internet).

Items:
1. buy a radar detector (i use a valentine one).
2. buy a blendmount mounting kit for porsche 981 (POR-002).
Radar Detector Mount
3. buy a mirrotap MT-2012 0.050 wide tap. i used the 12", but i would suggest the 15" length.
MirrorTap Power Cord with Inline Fuse
4. you will need a drill and a car trim removal tool
Thanks for a great writeup. The installation looks fairly straightforward, even for a mere geological mortal like myself.
 

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I have the blendmount in my CS and love it. With my Bel RX65 I have no issues with field of vision, but that of course is a personal preference/issue. The Bel has a rather narrow front control panel so may be less of an issue than with a V1. Also, mine is wired to the driver side fuse block. Easy to run the wire under the headliner and down the A-pillar completely out of view. And there's a perfect switched fuse location that's open so easy plug-in. There's a good write-up on here somewhere that has pictures of the fuse location so suggest a search if anyone is interested in this method. For me, much easier than dealing with the Home Link wiring, but to each his (or her!) own.

Very nice write-up! I know how much I appreciate these DIY's and this is a great alternative, as you said, for those that prefer this wiring method.
 

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hope this is a helpful tutuorial.[/FONT]
Hey Daniel, thank you for the tutorial, but may I suggest next time you attach larger pictures? :D Wanted to see the tab detail on the covers, but it's impossible with that size. Due to that, may I ask you to be more specific exactly where you started prying the pieces apart? I'd prefer to do the wiretap from the console, rather than sending a thick wire down the A-pillars, since in the case of an airbag deployment, it could just rip the cord and cut our faces or something. And if you can make your current pictures larger, it'd be great to see exactly where the tabs are :). Many thanks.

Finally, I have this same arrangement on the Corvette, and looks factory... BUT it's just AWFUL in the twisties. Driving down the highway, or in the city is not a big deal. But my new V1 (slimmer than previous units) still blocks visibility big time. I don't like that compromise anymore, so will probably just attach the detector from its suction cups on the right side of the mirror. Or as high as possible on the left side. Guess will have to wait until I pick up the car to determine that. And will just use the coiled extension on the way back from Austin to El Paso (600+ miles).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
hi.
thanks for your question.

tabs: you should be able to zoom in on the pictures, and i believe that you can see the tabs then (i tried and was able to see them clearly).
still, even with that knowledge, i have no good way to advise you on how to open them, other than to put a wedge between them and pull them apart slowly but forcefully.
i am not sure there is any more elegant way to do this, as i described in the original posting.
if anyone else has a better description, i would be interested in seeing it.

visibility: i initially thought the unit would impair visibility simply by its position. however, i really don't notice it when actually driving. i would still recommend the blendmount with midline radar detector positioning to people, and if you truly don't like the way it hangs, i think it is a returnable item (check with the company, don't take my word on it).

best of luck.
-daniel.
 

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Excellent write up. Thanks. I have a Blendmount in my 335 (wired to fuse box) and one in my Outback (connected via wiretap). I made my own bracket for the 981 (posted photos a while ago) and ran wires to the fuse box because the dealer service tech said there were no wires in the mirror housing that got switch off with the key. Thanks for showing us the truth.
 
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