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Thanks for the info, ddd.

Just to confirm, the mirror tap 15" long .050" for MICRO Harness is correct for the 981 application?

Also, is the BlendMount POR-002 correct for all 981 mirrors (even without auto dimming)?
 

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As everyone else has said, fantastic write up. Thank you for taking the time to document and photograph all the steps, especially the wiring taps.

In the past, I've owned several RDs, starting with the original Passport by Cincy Microwave (My dad had the full sized Escort). I had that RD for 15+ years before it died. I replaced it with the then state of the art model, which was the 8500. I also purchased a Valentine 1 for my other car. The 8500 was for my BMW M Roadster. No matter where I mounted it, I never heard the alarms with the top down at highway speed and the display only went from a low intensity to high intensity color of red, so it didn't catch my eye. I swapped it out with the V1 which visually caught my attention and I could also hear it at highway speed with only music playing loud enough to be heard at those speeds making it difficult to hear, which is no fault of the Valentine. The 8500 failed after a couple of years of use (all cars parked in garages both at home and at work). I just sent the V1 in for an upgrade, still going strong after 12 years. $199 and it's as good as new. I'm considering the Escort Redline when my BS arrives, but then I think back about the issues I had before and how solid the Valentine has been over the years and I may just pick up another V1 as a welcome home gift to the BS.

Either way, I may try this method but not sure about the $130 blendmount.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Rac10000,
hi.
1. yes, the 15" 0.050" wire tap should fit correctly.
2. i can't confirm that it will fit all mirrors. it does fit my mirror which i think has auto dimming. i just looked at the pictures of the mirrors on their website until i found the one that looked like mine (the por-002).

speeddeacon,
1. you are right, $130 is a lot, but it provides for a very clean looking install, you don't have to worry about suction cups falling off in the heat or the cold, and i think it provides the best placement for seeing the alarm without restricting visibility.

-daniel.
 

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Has anyone else done this rescently that may have a bit more information on safely removing the mirror housing other than prying it apart until it feels like it is going to break?
 

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FYI, I made my own mirror tap wires.

I took a black telephone cord, cut both ends so I had 2 pieces approx. 15" long. revealed the 2 wires inside. Red = +12v, Green = -12v (ground)

I used pieces of paperclip approx. 3/4" long as my spikes, exposed a little wire and used a chopped off piece of a clamp from any type of electrical connector.

I also had some black heatshrink that I put over each side, so only the paperclip piece was sticking out.

About 5 minutes per wire. Now I have a mirror tap wire in place for both of my vehicles for basically free and immediate gratification!

Instead of $60 + shipping, and having to wait for it to come in.

For installation: I tested the mirror plug with a voltmeter. One car only had one pair of wires that worked. The other had 2 pairs that worked, but one was always on & one was only on with the key turned in the ignition, so I connected it to that.
 

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Has anyone else done this rescently that may have a bit more information on safely removing the mirror housing other than prying it apart until it feels like it is going to break?
Yes, I just installed a BlendMount and MirrorTap in my 981CS, and it is not necessary to remove the four pieces of trim that cover the mirror stem. If you want to hide an inch or so of wire going down the outside of the top trim pieces (between the roof and the mirror), go ahead and fight with those pieces and drill a hole. Considering the fact that several inches of wire will always be present, no matter what, to plug it into the RD, I didn't want to go through all that trouble.

My install looks great and professional. The exposed wire is barely noticible above the mirror, and I didn't need to "almost break" anything or drill holes.

And don't get me wrong: Thanks to ddd for the great instructions! They helped me immensely. And I agree that his install looks slightly better than mine. I'm just saying that you don't NEED to remove those four pieces of trim, and frankly, I don't think anyone will notice the difference unless you pointed it out.

Here's a photo of my install:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1407176179.783897.jpg
 

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Has anyone else done this rescently that may have a bit more information on safely removing the mirror housing other than prying it apart until it feels like it is going to break?
I also installed blendmount and did not need to drill any holes. While following ddd's insttructions, I realized that it is not necessary to dismantle everything to the extent indicated in the instructions. I found a pair of pins inside the part of the mirror assembly that contains the switches that provide power only when the ignition is on. I connected to it using the wire taps and they fit perfectly. I then placed the cover back on over the wire. The pic is a bit blurry but I hope you can see what I mean. That cover pops right over simple.

photo.JPG
 

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Just did this for my 9500 and its looks and works great! Less than 10 min installing following the instructions! Thanks again to the OP!
 

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I was thinking of mounting the Valentine 1 to the chrome bar behind the front seats, using the arm rest storage power source and using the remote display mounted to the dash. My thought is if the rear radar can still detect radar from the windshield why can't the front detector pu radar from the bar (rear window). It would give a much more concealed look to it.

We do not have our CGTS yet...I'm planning for our Oct arrival....

What problems do you see with this set-up ?
 

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Thanks ddd ! Just did mine on a 2013 BS. Very, very simple. I also elected not to drill any holes as the power cord slips right out. I passed mine around the left side of the BlendMount then to the right side for plugging in to my Valentine. Looks really nice. As a note, the BlendMount stuff, while expensive, is really nice and looks factory-ish. I have their stuff in my other cars and really love it !! Worth the $$$. ddd I really appreciate the definition of the +/- wire color code. As a note to others there are 2 clips that hold the Homelink in place, at least in my BS. They are at to "top" of the "U" that surrounds the convertible top hold down hook receptacle. There is also a piece of industrial velcro type material on the bottom, or front right, the keeps it from rattling. Slip the credit card into the top clips and it releases from the top and then slip right out.
 

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Thanks to everyone for these very helpful posts. Have used an Escort in the past but planning to order the V1 for my new 981CS that should arrive in December. Just to be clear, if I just want to run from home link straight to detector, I don't need trim removal tools because the home link comes off with a credit card? I presume the 12 inch mirror tap is enough for that more direct install? Also, for those of you who wired to the fuse block, I presume you used the hard wire equipment that comes with the V1? Any specific recommendations about trim tools? Leaning towards wiring to homelink, but are there any significant benefits to running from the fuse box? I have never run wires along pillars and under headliners, so a little worried about screwing something up. Homelink install seems very easy.
 

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I just installed my V1 using the Blendmount, but ran the power cord down to the fusebox on the drivers side.

I LOVE the Blendmount. I initially bought a cheaper (generic) mirror mount from Amazon, but it did not look OEM at all. The Blendmount looks like it goes with the car.

Blendmount sent me a discount code for 12.5% off of future purchases. PM me if you want it.


Thanks to dombey for the DIY post on running the line:

http://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-boxster-electronics/86063-981-radar-hardwire-pics-wiring-etc-diy.html

It is not that hard to run the wire down to the fuse box. Only had a couple of problems: broke the pin on the carpeted panel around the fusebox when I removed it. You must pull this panel towards the rear of the car, or the pin will snap. Not a big deal, since the panel is very secure without it. Also, removing the homelink panel was tough. Fortunately, the clips here are metal, and you just have to be brave enough to pull hard enough to disengage the clips on the rear side of the homelink panel.

I made my own adapeter (via soldering) to attach a fuse plug and the ground plug to the V1 power line (which is a phone cord). I would actually recommend buying the V1 hardwire adapter instead.
 

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Thanks. Was the other mount you tried the Mirrormount? I have Blendmount in my current car but was considering trying the Mirrormount.
 

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Thanks. Was the other mount you tried the Mirrormount? I have Blendmount in my current car but was considering trying the Mirrormount.
Yes. I would consider it for temporary use or a Camry, but not for my 981. It is very utilitarian. It would work, but wouldn't look great doing it.
 

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Yes. I would consider it for temporary use or a Camry, but not for my 981. It is very utilitarian. It would work, but wouldn't look great doing it.
i've seen the mirrormount and i think it looks fine. i couldn't tell it was there and had to go in for a closer look.

is it true that you're getting commission for recommending the blendmount and that's the true reason for your statements?

i must admit that after seeing it, i personally went with the mirrormount because it doesn't make much sense to get the more expensive blendmount when something else looks fine, works well and gets the job done.
 

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Just curious - Since you removed the homelink panel why didn't you use a mirrortap instead of running wire all the way from the fusebox?
 

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is it true that you're getting commission for recommending the blendmount and that's the true reason for your statements?
I have no affiliation with Blendmount. I am simply posting my opinion for others to consider. I think the forum members here can make their own decisions. I am glad you like your mirrormount.

I have not received anything from Blendmount for posting the discount code. Just as I did when I posted the discount code for the Zunsport grills, I am just trying to help out other forum members.
I do not wish to have my integrity questioned, so I have deleted the link for the discount code. Anybody who wants it, please PM me.
 

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Just curious - Since you removed the homelink panel why didn't you use a mirrortap instead of running wire all the way from the fusebox?
The posts about the mirrortap indicated that you also needed to remove the shroud around the back of the mirror, and drill it. I didn't want to do that. Plus, I thought it would be an interesting little challenge to run the wire to the fusebox.:) The mirror tap seems like a good, reasonably priced alternative if you don't want to run the wire around to the fusebox.
 

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The posts about the mirrortap indicated that you also needed to remove the shroud around the back of the mirror, and drill it. I didn't want to do that. Plus, I thought it would be an interesting little challenge to run the wire to the fusebox.:) The mirror tap seems like a good, reasonably priced alternative if you don't want to run the wire around to the fusebox.
I personally went the route of removing the four piece molding around the mirror and drilled a small hole in one side of the lower pieces for the cable. I bought a replacement piece of molding from Sonnen in case I ever wanted to return it to "factory". I think the piece of molding was five or six bucks. If and when I sell the vehicle I may swap out the drilled piece of molding. However, The buyer may be happy with the wiring for the radar detector already installed.

Some other users have also used the mirror tap without removing the lower mirror molding and drilling. The upper molding is fairly simple to remove. Then, they just slipped the wire through the seam where the molding joins. There is a small space between the left and right pieces that is more than enough space to slip the mirrortap cable through.
 
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