Planet-9 Porsche Forum banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I did not see any articles
on “do it yourself” removal of the exhaust system, so I figured this may help those of you interested in attempting an exhaust swap. My disclaimer: USE EXTREME CAUTION. I am a novice at these tasks and had the guidance of a close friend / member on this forum who graciously provided his tools, garage, and quite honestly did most of the work. We did this together as a team and it took roughly 45 minutes to do the following steps.

Step 1: Park your car in a safe area where you can work.

Step 2: Once in an ideal location, pull the parking brake / place a stopper in front of the front wheels so the car doesn't roll forward with the subsequent steps as rear end of the car will be on jack stands.

Step 3: Find the jack point under the car. The goal is to get the rear of your car on the stands to both work under as well as to remove both of the rear tires. We used Terry989's thread Getting your 981 on jack stands . We jacked up the car on the support structure found on both sides of the car medial to the wheels as seen in Terry’s pictures.


There is also a central jack point, but we opted to do one jack at a time, but took a pic so you can see how you could use the central jack point. You can use pieces of wood to help distribute the weight / not stress the bolts. We didn’t feel comfortable with this when we started and did the one side at a time method a la Terry’s tutorial. (When we were done with the exhaust swap we used the central jack point to lower the car and it did not have any visible stress or change in structure).

Step 4: Once the car is stable and propped on the rear jack stands safely, then proceed with removing the rear tires. You will need a 19mm socket wrench. Remove all the bolts and save the top most bolts to remove at the end (the wheels tend to slip off once all the bolts are removed--this is the pro-tip to do this simple process well.) Carefully remove the top bolt and have someone hold the wheel. Be careful when you remove the wheels as you risk damage to the brakes / rotors during this step (particularly if the wheel drops). In the last pic here you can see the post-cat pipe of the exhaust.

Step 5: Now that the wheels are removed you will have to remove the post-Cat pipe as indicated in the pictures. (We will essentially remove the exhaust in parts in the way we are describing to make it easier to do. In total it will be roughly 2 or 3 overall large parts.) For this step, you will need a 13mm socket wrench. There are two bolts that need to be removed in this area. Also we recommend removing the bolts from both sides of the car during this step.
First bolt:


Second bolt:

You may need this tool to reach in the area as there is not a lot of space to work with:

This is the result:

Step 6: You will need to remove the clamps holding the exhaust in place. There is one clamp on either side of the car. You can do one side and at a time so the system can be removed in parts (wait to start removing any pieces after step 7). You will need to use your 15mm socket wrench.

The bolt is quite odd and has a star pattern. Here are pics although a 15mm socket will work:
Step 7: The last clamps you will have to remove require an 11mm socket. Once these clamps are removed you can now you can remove one half of the exhaust. The central portion including the tips can be removed with one side or by itself (hence 2 or 3 overall large parts). We removed the exhaust as two pieces (refer to last picture on this thread showing the whole exhaust system).

Close up:


Now you can carefully remove one half (or one third) at a time. If removed in two parts, pay attention to the side that has the central portion of the exhaust (essentially the tips) as this will be the hardest to remove. You can swing the tips down to help loosen them. Its hard to remove them due to the expansion and contraction of the heated metal. Here is half of the exhaust removed:


Step 8: Go back to remove the other half of the exhaust as per step 6 (remove clamp) and step 7 (taking off the exhaust)

Step 9: Congrats you now have an exhaust-less car!


Full exhaust system:


Overall there should be 4 clamps. One clamp on the either sides of the car that were removed in step 5 and two clamps in the middle that are removed in step 7.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Thanks. I'm considering swapping to the PSE, so this will be very helpful!



Sent from my iPhone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Great, I'm here to help. If you do swap over be wary of the switch for the PSE. Most of the people here had it completed at the dealer so if you figure out how to do it then add to this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Will do. Expect I will need to take it to the dealer after the switch is installed but will let y'all know.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,042 Posts
Well done. You need to copy it up to the Articles section.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
34,503 Posts
Well done. You need to copy it up to the Articles section.

You mean something like this? 981 Exhaust Sytem Removal - Articles

Enjoy!
(BTW when people insert thumbnails with links to the larger photos as attachments as was done in this first post it isn't a clean copy/paste into the articles section, you have to clean up formatting, so I went and did that in this case)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
309 Posts
Is it just me, or is it almost as hard to remove the engine cover as it is the exhaust, lol?

edit: which is to say, either the exhaust is easy or the engine cover is harder than need be; I'll lean toward the latter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
Thanks for all the information. I will probably need to refer back to this! Trying to get a second garage built at the moment, however, which is going to cost way more than I thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
I removed my exhaust on my 987.1 and if I had to do it again it would be easier. My trick was to soak the exhaust bolts with PB Blaster for like a week straight. I didn't have any issues snapping any studs. I replaced my stock with the Fabspeed Maxflo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
331 Posts
Nicely done, thanks.
The only thing that I would do different is to break the wheel studs before lifting the car, that way you're not fighting the transmission.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jtucker

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
I did not see any on “do it yourself” removal of the exhaust system, so I figured this may help those of you interested in attempting an exhaust swap.
A BIG help! I have been watching for a used dual factory S tip for a while and last week found one, brand new on eBay for $275 from a tuner who installed an aftermarket system for a customer. (Thanks to whoever had that done in Atlanta :) ) It was literally brand new and a great score at basically half the retail price. I used this thread for removing half the exhaust and in about 45 minutes it was done. Thanks!

BTW, I had read the actual tip change was about the hardest part of the job. That's fairly accurate. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Thanks for the write up and pics!
now, does anyone know what size external torx socket I need for the bolt that secures the exhaust to the body? I'd like to have the right tool for the job.
Also, has anyone lowered the whole exhaust as one piece, perhaps by using a jack under the center pipes/tips for support while unbolting and lowering? The fewer steps without compromising safety, the better!
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Thanks for the write up and pics!
now, does anyone know what size external torx socket I need for the bolt that secures the exhaust to the body? I'd like to have the right tool for the job.
10-11mm Inverted TORX®, but a standard 10-11mm 6 point socket works just fine.


Also, has anyone lowered the whole exhaust as one piece, perhaps by using a jack under the center pipes/tips for support while unbolting and lowering? The fewer steps without compromising safety, the better! Thanks!
I think this might be pretty difficult. The mounts would have to come out with it I would think because of the way the pipes clamp to them. They're under the pipes like a shelf and doubt there is room to shift the whole system side to side enough to go around them, if that makes sense. Might be worth a try but worst case you'd have to split it at the rear tube/tip. Sometimes fewer steps are not possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
10-11mm Inverted TORX®, but a standard 10-11mm 6 point socket works just fine.




. They're under the pipes like a shelf and doubt there is room to shift the whole system side to side enough to go around them, if that makes sense.
It doesn't make sense yet, not without looking at it. I'm sure it'll all make sense when I get under there...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Second the need for it to be split in at least half. To remove a side you need to twist it to get out, once you get under there and start, you will see, but I can't imagine trying to get it out in one piece.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PG-IN

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
It doesn't make sense yet, not without looking at it. I'm sure it'll all make sense when I get under there...
Maybe this helps?

DSC_0003-17103-17116.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jaymac17

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
helps a lot! Makes much more sense. So those red "mounting points", does that bar/tube stay in place during removal or does that have to come out/get loosened?
any more pics like this that might help?
Those come out if you remove all the bolts.

Here is one out with the all the mounting hardware attached. But as you can see even in this case, it is taken out in two.

IMG_1474.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,100 Posts
Oh ok. So should I plan on removing that bar as the beat way to get the job done?
Are you replacing it with something aftermarket? If you are doing the Porsche Sport Exhaust it should just bolt right back up and no reason to remove the supports. Some aftermarket may as well but most will have their own mounting to the same points on the car. Either way, I would just bring it out in two pieces. It will be less frustrating and just easier I'm sure. If you are just doing a new tip, you don't need to remove even one side. Remove the bolts/nuts on one side, flange nuts and 11mm inverted torx from the clamp and pry away from the flange studs, then loosen all the nuts on the tip and transfer tube. Then just wiggle it around till you get it separated and the tip out. Reverse with the new tip.
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top