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Going to replace the Sound Plus (ASK) Amp in the Frunk with an aftermarket amp, and keep everything else stock (CDR-24, speakers, etc...)

Does anybody have the full wiring diagram for the ASK Amp? I searched but couldn't find a definitive answer (or I could just suck at searching).

I plan on tapping the wires from the harness - any help is greatly appreciated! :)
 

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thick red wire = 12v constant
thick brown = ground

outputs to doors:
thick red/brown = pos right
thick red= neg right
thick light blue/brown = pos left
thick light blue = neg left

input from radio (signal)
same colors as above but the thinner wires. these will be used as your high level inputs. you have to run a remote "turn on" to your fuse box. gromet behind battery.

you will have some wires left over, they are for the center channel speaker which will not be used or missed. GL:cheers:

i would run your amp with the low pass xover for best sound.
 

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i would run your amp with the low pass xover for best sound.
Is this a typo? If anything, they should use a high pass filter, blocking the only the super low frequencies that those speakers can't effectively produce. If you run a low pass, you're going to attenuate anything above a few hundred Hz, and that's not going to sound right.

-Jeff
 

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jeff,

i said to use a low pass xover (cross over) not filter. they are two distinct things. a cross over will only allow certain frequencies to be played by the speaker/sub and are usually electronic. a filter will "clean" out any unwanted frequencies and are placed in line with the speaker. tweeters usually use filters not mid bass subs such as the p's have in the doors. i am asumming that the amp that the OP owns has a cross over built in and was advising him to use the "LP" setting rather then the "HP" setting. no foul no harm cheers:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sidenote: how much are used ASK amps worth? Thinking about selling mine to recoup some of the cost of the new amp :D
 

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Side note, they're worth nothing as they all fail :hilarious:

Upgrading the amp is a noble pursuit, do the same for the CDR (it's worse than the amp). At that point you'll probably want to swap the speakers too, there's plenty to pick from. :beer:
 

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Everyone I know this is an old thread but hope you can answer some additional questions. I have a 2011 987.2 with the sound plus. I want to replace the factory amp and speakers. I am going to keep the head unit even though its not very good. My question is that I understand that the factory amp only powers the door woofers? And the head unit powers the mid and dash tweeters? I also understand that there is some hidden crossover that leads to the mids / tweeters? So if I wire up this new amp using the L/R speaker outputs to the factory amp and run all new speaker wires to all the new speakers (to bypass any crossover) and use the new speaker crossover for the new mids/tweeters and run the subs straight up to the new 4 channel. Does this sound like a plan that would be correct?? Any other options?

I have limited knowledge with this and appreciate any help. Thanks!
 

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Everyone I know this is an old thread but hope you can answer some additional questions. I have a 2011 987.2 with the sound plus. I want to replace the factory amp and speakers. I am going to keep the head unit even though its not very good. My question is that I understand that the factory amp only powers the door woofers? And the head unit powers the mid and dash tweeters? I also understand that there is some hidden crossover that leads to the mids / tweeters? So if I wire up this new amp using the L/R speaker outputs to the factory amp and run all new speaker wires to all the new speakers (to bypass any crossover) and use the new speaker crossover for the new mids/tweeters and run the subs straight up to the new 4 channel. Does this sound like a plan that would be correct?? Any other options?

I have limited knowledge with this and appreciate any help. Thanks!
I just did this to mine last week, but with aftermarket HU. You're right, the AMP in the Frunk only powers the 6.5" speakers and the OEM HU powers the 4" and Tweets. I didn't find any OEM crossovers on 4" or tweets, just small caps on the speakers themselves.

I installed a set of Hertz 3-way separates to a Fosgate AMP. So all 3 speaker's wires ran to the frunk and connect to the Hertz crossover, then the crossover connects to the Fosgate amp. Only the rears are running off the HU. Sounds 1000x better with decent bass. It's a pretty simple install and most of your wires can be tapped at the OEM amp.
 

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I just did this to mine last week, but with aftermarket HU. You're right, the AMP in the Frunk only powers the 6.5" speakers and the OEM HU powers the 4" and Tweets. I didn't find any OEM crossovers on 4" or tweets, just small caps on the speakers themselves.

I installed a set of Hertz 3-way separates to a Fosgate AMP. So all 3 speaker's wires ran to the frunk and connect to the Hertz crossover, then the crossover connects to the Fosgate amp. Only the rears are running off the HU. Sounds 1000x better with decent bass. It's a pretty simple install and most of your wires can be tapped at the OEM amp.

Thanks much... From what I understand the "crossover" may be hidden somewhere behind the dash and is not present in the doors at the speaker locations. This would make sense as the tweeters are in the dash.. Wire would have to run to the door and back if that were the case. I think what I am trying to make sure of is if I tap into HU wires that they are pre-crossover to the new amp. I really did not want to take the HU out but maybe better to just get the speaker outputs right from the HU. I really wonder about this hidden supposed crossover as I know that the tweeters have some sort of capasitor to block the low frequencies.

So my final question would be what if I tap into the inputs that go to the factory amp that drive the 6.5" and use it for all 4 inputs. Can I assume that its a full range signal?

Sorry guys and thanks for any advise. I am sure you can tell I am not an expert here and I really dont want to do to much surgery...
 

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I have a similar question, I did search. I have a Boxster, so no rear speakers. Do I hook up all 4 high level inputs, F/R - F/L - R/R - R/L , or just the 2 Front inputs with a 2-channel amp ?
 

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thick red wire = 12v constant
thick brown = ground

outputs to doors:
thick red/brown = pos right
thick red= neg right
thick light blue/brown = pos left
thick light blue = neg left

input from radio (signal)
same colors as above but the thinner wires. these will be used as your high level inputs. you have to run a remote "turn on" to your fuse box. gromet behind battery.

you will have some wires left over, they are for the center channel speaker which will not be used or missed. GL:cheers:

i would run your amp with the low pass xover for best sound.
Hi, I realize this is an old post but could I get a little more detail on this? The factory black wire next to the 12V Power and Ground (Brown Wire) is the remote wire. Moving that to the new AMP should work right?

"you have to run a remote "turn on" to your fuse box. gromet behind battery"
 
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